Budapest is divided into two parts. Buda is the smarter residential area on the south of the river. The main attraction here is the castle district, which you can get to via a tiny funicular railway from the Buda side of the Chain Bridge. Don't eat up here, it costs the earth.
Pest is the busy happening side, where real people live and all the best restaurants are. The city centre is surrounded by a wide main road known as the korut (which means circle, or something). Near the river is the more expensive touristy part, including Vaci Utca, which is a street with all the designer shops and tourist trap cafes. Also nearby is Vorosmarty Ter, a pretty square that is frankly better visited in winter.
The main boulevard is called Andrassy Ut, starting at Ferenciek Ter and finishing at Hosok Tere (Heroes' Square). If you walk along Andrassy, you will find Liszt Ferenc Ter which has very good restaurants, if a little pricey. There's an Italian called Pompei (sic) which does onion soup in a roll - recommended. Incidentally, soup in Hungary is usually pretty hefty and you won't want a second course. Try the jokai bean soup and the tarragon chicken soup as well.
After Liszt Ter is Oktogon, which is a big intersection featuring Burger King and McDonald’s. There is also a nice restaurant called Grand Cafe Oktogon, where I have had a lot of nice food.
thehungaryyears.blogspot.com/ is written by an expat in Budapest who often talks about restaurants, bars, and general local colour
Andrassy starts at Deak Ferenc ter, Buda is the western part of the city, the river runs from north to south.Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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