Chances are you'll find yourself on Váci Utca at some point, so look for the sign of the teapot at number 65 and take some chai in this fantastic little teashop.

You'll be led into the low light and hushed tones of the cafe - or if you're lucky, through the veil into the 'private area' - and offered a bewildering array of teas, served impeccably, and with as much love as any Japanese tea ceremony. I don't know whether the lovely chaps who run it are actually Buddhist monks, but the dedication they show to the tea would certainly suggest they'd do well.

It's probably not authentic Hungarian, but it's very atmospheric, and serves a cracking cup of tea. And you can't eat goulash the whole time, can you?

V. Váci Ut 65, set back in a courtyard

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