Any restaurant in Kumkapi is great: a network of pedestrian streets and nothing but tens of restaurants. On hot nights, it’s almost impossible to walk around, with pavements full of tables of happy diners and small groups of musicians travelling from one restaurant to another.

There is no global pop there, but lots of Turkish songs sang along by all encouraged by copious amounts of raki flowing around.

Restaurants offer great selections of mezzes and main courses. Last time I was there, a friend wanted to eat a dish the restaurant we were in didn’t serve, so the waiter ordered it from the restaurant opposite. How‘s that for hospitality?

Down from Sultan Ahmet towards the Sea of Marmara coast

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