For those who like their religious experiences dark and sinister, Cuzco’s cathedral is for you.

Built on the site of an Inca temple, but clearly not in worship of the Sun God, very little light manages to penetrate the gloom. Huge canvases from the Cuzco School of Art depict the bloody deeds of saints and sinners, seemingly painted from a palette containing only black and red.

Check out the ominous silver altar, adorned with mirrors which do little to brighten the scene. You can taste the history, written in Inca blood.

One chink of light is the painting of the Last Supper, Andean-style – with Jesus and the Apostles sitting down to a delicious platter of … guinea pig.

Plaza de Armas

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