Plaka's a tourist trap with some rubbish restaurants but irresistably pretty on a spring evening, so what do you do?
Go to To Kafeneio - the locals’ favourite, tucked away on a sidestreet. It's got a limited but great quality mezedes menu, and a local feel. Not to be missed are the meatballs with 'special' sauce (patented, apparently) and fava dip.
1, Epicharmou Street, Plaka;
tel: 210 324 6916;
nearest metro: Acropolis or Monastiriki;
www.tokafeneio.gr
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The (two, bit rubbish) maps I've seen call this Epiharmou Street (missing the "c").