Traditionally a dirty, noisy and over-populated area of Rome just north of the forum between the Viminale and Esquilino hills. Rather than stray dogs, vagrants and ladies of the night, these days you are more likely to find locals sharing a slice of everyday Rome. Even though it’s a stone’s throw from the forum, these few streets feel like a village with a history all of their own. If it's genuine Rome you're after, this is the place to see it.
Via dei Serpenti, just off Via Nazionale. Also Via del Boschetto running parallel to via dei Serpenti plus several cobbled streets running off each.
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This area is known as Monti and has bags of charm and interesting bars & restaurants. There's a good, cheap hotel here, the Anfiteatro Flavio (www.anfiteatroflavio.com/) - no views, silver salvers or trouser presses, but you couldn't be more central.
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