Go just before dusk to the top of the small hill in Jingshan park, just north of the Forbidden City. By this time, the usual throng of tourists and trinket sellers has usually declined to just a couple of dozen people so you can see the old and new of Beijing in relative peace. With a good sunset, even the smog can look attractive. Open 6am-9pm daily.

Across the road from the north gate of the Forbidden City; or take bus No 101 from Fuchengmen or Chaoyangmen metro stops

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