Between the Baixa and Castelo is the sloping maze of Mouraria - the Alfama without the tourists and the chi-chi boutiques. Mainly African, it hums with life day and night. Walk up through the narrow streets and wind up in Graca - Lisbon's highest hill - then head for the rooftop bar of the Albergaria Senhora do Monte. It has the finest view over the Castelo and the city.

Metro: Martim Moniz, then head uphill. Albergaria Senhora do Monte is at Calçada do Monte, 39.

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