If you want to visit an authentic part of Cologne and don't want to go to all the touristy places where everybody else goes, visit the Suedstadt - a laid back quarter with pretty art nouveau buildings and friendly residents, most of them students and young families. Once you've passed the nasty construction site of the new underground line they're building at the Chlodwigplatz, you will find multi-cultural cuisine, nice cafes and pubs, and cute little shops.

A very special place is the Fiffi Bar, where the 1960's furnishing is decorated with kitschy dog accessories. If you fancy a nice park and beer garden, go to the Volksgarten 9 (Volksgartenstrasse). And if you're up for some football on the big screen during the World Cup, visit the Hammond Bar, a charmingly worn-out place where you can always have a glass of Kölsch together with incredibly nice, football-crazy people.

U-Bahn: Chlodwigplatz (Lines 6, 15, 16, 17);
Fiffi Bar: Rolandstrasse 99; tel: 0221 340 6211;
Hammond Bar: Metzer Strasse 25; tel: 0221 932 9229; www.hammondbar.de

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