Forget the castle: it's a 1950s concrete repro with neon strip lighting and a lift in the middle. If you want traditional culture in Nagoya... well, you probably should've gone somewhere else, but that doesn't mean you have to go home empty-handed.

The Owari branch of the Tokugawa family were one of the most powerful daimyo (feudal rulers) of the Edo period (1603-1867), and their vast array of heirlooms are showcased here. It's a mighty impressive collection, running the gamut from swords to pottery to exquisite centuries-old paintings and kimono. Everything is presented beautifully, and the displays are pretty much all bilingual.

The jewel in the museum's crown is a large portion of the 12th-century Illustrated Tale of Genji, but owing to its fragility it seldom goes on public display. Small sections are shown at certain times of the year, and there are also regular special exhibitions. Check the website for details.

1017 Tokugawa-cho, Higashi-ku, Nagoya 461-0023
(052) 935-6262
www.tokugawa-art-museum.jp/english/index.html
Adults: 1,200 yen, Seniors: 1,000 yen, Students: 700 yen, Children (7-14): 500 yen
Open 10:00-17:00 Tuesday-Sunday (last admittance 16:30). Closed Mondays (except national holidays, in which case closed on Tuesdays).

Getting there:
By train - Take the JR Chuo line to Ozone station. The museum is a 10 minute walk from the South Exit (Minami-guchi).
By bus - If you're going from Nagoya Station, take the City Bus for Hikarigaoka or Idaka Shako from Green #7 Bust Stop at Eki-mae City Bus Terminal. If you're going from Sakae, take the City Bus for Hikiyama or Sankenya from #3 Stop at Sakae Bus Terminal (Oasis 21). For both, get off at the Tokugawaen Shindeki bus stop. It's a few minutes' walk from there.

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