There are reminders everywhere in Prague of people who struggled against oppression. Jan Palach, the student who burnt himself to death in protest at Soviet occupation, has a statue in Wenceslas Square.

But the most moving experience of national defiance that we had was at the spot where Reinhard Heydrich's assassins (Czech paratroopers flown over from Britain) were gunned down in the Church of St Cyril, just off Charles Square.

You first notice the bullet-scarred wall where the church was besieged in 1942, when German troops mounted an assault on the Czechs who were hiding there. Surrounded, they took their own lives and the crypt of the church is one of those places where you feel the hand of history.

The cafe next door to the church acts as a wonderful museum that honours those brave parachutists.

The Church of St Cyril: Resslova Ulice, Nove Mesto, the entrance to the museum is at the side on Vizeoska Street.
tel: 420 224 920 686
Nearest metro: B line to Karlovo Namesti; Trams: 10,14,16,18, 22, 24

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