The Lakes and National Park at Plitvice are magnificent. Wooden walkways cross the still glassy clear lakes and at some points you can look down and see a vertical forest of fallen trees. The paths take you close to the stunning waterfalls but are done in a way that doesn't feel intrusive. Great for a days walking as an excursion from the coast.
A couple of hours drive from the coast.
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Take a bus from Zagreb main bus station, there was one per hour when I went. Busses back not weren't so reliable, but the service has probably improved now. Journey is around an hour and takes you through the Croatian countryside still scarred by the conflicts.
Plitvice Lakes really is stupendous, nothing quite preapres you for it. But think twice about going on the weekend - the crowds are super-thick and the paths are frustratingly thin. Also, the upper lakes are less visited, but far more diverse and interesting. There's a very good campsite nearby, which provides a bus service.Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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