In the heart of the old city, a truly beautiful cathedral. Pay 3 euros for the audio tour, and see a Goya, the putrified arm of some long-dead martyr... and would you believe it: the Holy Grail. Yes it's here, located at the end of the tour, in a dark, simple stone chapel, in the corner of the cathedral. Sit at the back and let the sun - passing through a high round stained glass window, decorated with the grail - land on your face. Incredible.

Plaza del la Reina

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