It is the city's museum of modern art, heavily featuring Spanish modern artists - Dali, Miro and Picasso, and houses Picasso's Guernika. It's much more manageable than the Prado; the building itself is gorgeous, all white and airy, with a lovely garden in the central quadrangle. It used to be a mental hospital.
The top floor also houses contemporary installations which make the mind boggle. Enough for an hour or two of culture, without feeling obliged to see the rest, or be overwhelmed at the amount of work to see.
My favourite is a preparatory sketch of a bull with mad eyes Picasso made, for Guernika. My first stop whenever I am in town.
Free Saturday afternoons from 2pm.
On the Ronda de Atocha, opposite the Atoha railway station. 15 minute walk south of Plaza Major. Metro - Atocha
It's free all day Sundays (09h00-14h30 I think). But very crowded. Unfortunately the Reina Sofia replicates the Spanish tendency to fill museums with Spanish art. Picasso's most famous, but not best work, Guernika, is in there. And if they're not trotting around the world in temporary exhibitions you can get to see some of your favourite Dalis Grises or Miros. But if you are looking for a museum with a fantastic variety of art the Thysssen is a much better bet. The collection is displayed in a quirky giggly chronological fashion avoiding any reference to style, influence or tendency but will keep you entertained for more than the 45 minutes the RS requires. www.museothyssen.org/thyssen/home.html
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