A couple of years ago my "Cariocissima" wife and I resolved to escape the barely concealed chaos and hassle of Rio de Janeiro's Zona Sul and make our home in the boho paradise of Santa Teresa. We haven't regretted the decision for a second.
Santa, as it is known locally, is perched precariously on the edge of the Serra da Carioca, nestling under Corcovado mountain and the Christo statue, and enjoys breathtaking views of the North and South Zones of the city and Guanabara Bay beyond.
Do you have an urge to avoid the brutal, soulless architectural horrors that pass for hotels in Copacabana and Ipanema? Do you hanker after the real Rio at a much a slower pace? Then look no further than a few nights' bed and breakfast among the colonial mansions, steep, serpentine cobbled streets and tropical greenery of Santa.
Cama e Café (Bed and Breakfast) is a company run by a friendly, English-speaking crowd, who can arrange B&B accommodation ranging from the former residence of one Ronald Arthur Biggs to a cell in a baroque convent for around £15-£35 a night. And if you really can’t do without enduring the tumult of the beach at Copacabana it’s a mere 25 minutes away by Metro.
Cama e Café's website can be found at www.camaecafe.com.br, or they can be reached by 'phone on 00 55 21 2224-5689. To get to their office From Zona Sul take the Metro from Siqueira Campos or Cardeal Arcoverde Station (make sure you buy an "Integração" ticket for around 50 pence). From Carioca station take the 214a integração microbus, marked Paula Mattos, as far as Rua Progresso. Ask the driver to drop you outside their office at number 67.
We stayed in Santa Teresa in March, in Casa579 (www.casa579.com). ST had by far the nicest atmosphere of anywhere in Rio, really tranquil and friendly. We had views of the Sugar Loaf and the Cristo from our room, and the Casa was extremely friendly and relaxed - the owner even took us out on our first night. There's a tiny restaurant opposite called Gaucho's which you won't find in any tourist books but where we had one of the best typically Brazilian meals during our stay, alongside the local tram-drivers and workmen. It's only open for lunch (I think) but makes a good place to stop if you get the tram up to the end of the line - walk back down the hill a couple of hundred yards and it's on your right.
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www.casabeleza.net
Many people say it's not safe, but we felt as safe as anywhere and met a lot of friendly people. You really have the feeling of a neighbourhood atmosphere rather than just a touristy beach area.