I remember that in the eighties our host directed us to a fish restaurant which was unknown to tourists, somewhere in the centre and (inside) entirely built in alabaster - wall panels, uplighters, counters ... everything.
The fish was incredibly fresh and the service exquisitely polite (and very formal) - the waiters were in tails and spoke only French and Arabic. We paid a ridiculously small amount for a wonderful meal. I have long since lost the address, but if anyone knows whether this restaurant still exists, I would love to know.
Updates
It could be Samakmak, Sayadinna, or Gandofli (all around Mohandiseen) there is one very formal fish restaurant (where the waiters dress like out of a sixties movie) called 'the Flying Fish' it's in Agouza.
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