If you are under 30 or wear the now British uniform of shell suit and trainers, head for north Goa. The south (as yet) is a bit more refined, a bit more expensive but, hey it's your hols!
For great food try "Sams Shack" on the beach outside the Holiday Inn, Mobor, or Edwins "Goan Village" in Cavelossim, somewhere new is the Riverview literally on the river behind the Old Anchor. The beach sellers are less hassle here, one of our favourites, Camilla has as she calls it, Paul Mcarries (Macca) autograph.
The best massage on the beach is from Abdul, about £7/£8 for a full hour of relaxation. We are back there in December, but don't come near us if you are in your shellsuit&trainers.
I have been advised that SAMS SHACK is in a slightly different position this season,it's just to the left as you come out of the Holiday Inn (this is due to the local village ways of drawing "lots" for shack position). If you get fed up sun bathing try "Jacks cruises" in Cavelossim village, it's a great way to spend a day looking for dolphins in the sea,then coming up river for bird spotting, lunch and PLENTY of drinks are served on deck ALL INCLUDED in the very reasonable price of approx £10 per person. Neither of us have ever owned an item of sportswear and are on the wrong side of 30 but for the last 6 years we have chosen North Goa as our base.We lodge with a local family and lurve the daytime madness of the towns, dodging the hoardes of Goans during morning rush hour, haggling for fresh fish from the local fishermen and sharing a campfire on the beach at night. We have no hassle from beach hawkers, often they bring bags of monkey nuts and freshly made pakoras to share. We are invited to their homes for chai and pastries. Not for us the luxury hotels with well-heeled westerners. If we wanted refinement we wouldn't holiday in a third world country. Thanks for the tips though, the beach masseuses will be amazed that tourists in the South pay £8 for a 1hr massage, North Goan masseuses charge £3 for an hour and a half!
We leave for Goa this Saturday and we have been advised that “Sam’s shack”, due to the "lottery" for position, is for this season approx 30mtrs to the left of the Holiday Inn. And he has a free beer for anyone mentioning the Guardian unlimited page! We have also been advised that the police have banned the "beach sellers" this season, so it will be more peaceful! Stayed at the Holiday Inn four years ago, had a great relaxing time.Sam's shack we enjoyed - loved the food, loved the drink, loved the staff to a point (one pestered me into him supplying my brand of cigarettes for me, I agreed at just 200 having already bought enough duty free at Gatwick for the first week's stay. What he supplied was trash, coughed my guts up, different sized box etc).
Avoid ordering the lobster there as well, whilst we were there Sam got pulled up and admitted to dishing up crayfish as lobster, just as well I had ordered the garlic prawns that night. I wouldn't have known the difference between crayfish and lobster anyway, but people on another table did.
Or do as they did, order it, eat it, pull them up on it and get your meal for free.
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