Old Nesebar is quaint - but somehow strangely artificial. Perhaps it's the coachloads of German matrons and their camera-clicking spouses who swamp this ancient city. Perhaps it's the rip-off restaurnants, but I always find the Old Town somewhat artificial and surreal.

Bulgarians tend to holiday in Nesebar's rival town of Sozopol, just 34 kilometres south of Bourgas. It's far more relaxed and friendly, has far superior restaurants (at significantly cheaper prices) and, for the first ten days in September, hosts the stimulating Apollonia Arts Festival.

To get there from Sunny Beach simply take the Bourgas bus from the main bus station and get off when the bus empties at Avtorgara Yag (it's unmistakable - the main port offices are to your left and the train station is immediately in front). Now walk a few paces forward and ascend the Sozopol bus.

Much more information is available on the website bulgariacoast.info

Sunny Beach is a monstrous polyglot just a ridiculous 10 euro taxi ride from the ancient island town of Messembria now named Nessebar.