A network of underground river caves that are certainly not for the faint hearted! Entering these caves must be done with a guide from one of the local hostels, which considering the nature of the caves is probably a good thing. A two hour adrenaline filled trip, scrambling over rocks and stalagmites, wading through pools, climbing up gushing waterfalls, swimming through narrow channels, squeezing through tiny holes and if your're needing a little more adventure a cliff jump into a pitch black pool! Naturally, all this is done while holding a trusty candle above your head for light and clinging onto your flip flops which have been loosely tied on with string! If you're keen for adrenaline, like uncertainty and are willing to put your trust in a small Guatemalan lad with a candle, then this is undoubtedly the best and most unforgettable cave experience in the world!

Semuc Champey, near Las Marias hostel, Guatemala. Reached by bus from Lanquin.
www.lonelyplanet.com/travelblogs/1139/41961/KanBa+River+Caves+of+Guatemala?destId=358403

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Entremundos is a non-profit organization based in Quetzaltenango (also called Xela) that connects volunteers to organizations all around Guatemala, with the highest number of projects based in the western highlands. You can access their database of volunteer opportunities for free on their website but if you are already in Xela (as I was, studying at a Spanish school) you can also make an appointment to go and talk to them about volunteer work and get more info. This appointment costs a donation of £2. They helped me contact a small community project where I helped out with agricultural work and some basic teaching for three weeks. I think its a great organization for those who are willing to take the leap and set up volunteer work when they get to Guatemala, and not pay some profit making company a fortune to send you to the same projects Entremundos does. They also have their own projects on the go, like training for local community groups and NGOs and produce a great bilingual magazine about development issues. I used it a lot for my Spanish study. Oh, and they rent rooms out too. So if you are planning to go to Quetzaltenango (and you realy should), check them out. I hope they keep up the great work they are doing!

6a calle, 7-31, Zona 1, Quetzaltenango
www.entremundos.org
volunteering@entremundos.org
Google map: tinyurl.com/3xte52h

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Utatlan is a small Spanish school that I came across, and subsequently studied at, in Quetzaltenango, a great alternative place to study Spanish instead of more touristy Antigua Guatemala. I want to give the tip to others that they consider studying at this school if they want to improve their language skills at the same time as experiencing life in Guatemala. There are several Spanish schools here, and I'm sure some others are good too but the reason the school is so good is that the co-ordinators and teachers are all young and very friendly as well as highly professional. Not only did I learn a great deal of Spanish but they also helped me plan my travel plans after study and introduced me to life, culture and nightlife of this amazing small city. I stayed with a host family during my weeks of study (organized by the school), and they were lovely too. This option is certainly the cheapest in terms of accommodation and the best for practising Spanish and learning about Guatemalan life.

12 avenida, 4-31, Pasaje Enriquez, Zona 1,Quetzaltanango, Guatemala.
www.xelapages.com/utatlan
Google map: tinyurl.com/3a6bkpr
utatlan_xela@hotmail.com

The school is based inside this beautiful colonial 'passageway' that is on one side of the central park.

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Excellent waterfront lodging on Lake Atitlan. Accomodation ranges from dorms to comfortable cabins so suits all budgets. Located in the village of Santa Cruz it is accessible only by boat but a reasonably priced, copious dinner is offered every night with a vegetarian option. Laze in a hammock, go for a hike or use it as a base to visit the rest of the lake.

Web site : www.laiguanaperdida.com
Easily accessible by boat from Panajachel.

Google map: tinyurl.com/yct6zzu

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This is a great little traveller retreat in a beautiful setting by the river. It is located very near Semuc Champey (falls and swimming pools) and there are caves to explore for the adventurous.

Accommodation is in simple wooden huts on stilts with hammocks, the grounds are very lush and green. There is a great little restaurant near the river complete with swinging bar stools.

If you're there on the right night, expect a party atmosphere, this is a great place to meet other intrepid travellers. It's not an easy place to get to so it tends to attract only people who can be bothered to make the effort!

The facilities are what you'd call eco- long drop toilets (v.clean) simple showers. We didn't want to leave.

Get here from Coban (which itself is five hrs from Guat.city). It takes about two hours in a collectivo to get to Lanquin from Coban. Or try the great tour from dona victoria hostel in coban of semuc champey/ caves and they'll drop you off at El retiro on request! El retiro arrange a direct shuttle to Antigua (this took us 7 hours and was well worth the $15-20) and I think maybe they offer shuttles to Tikal.

www.retiro-guatemala.com/

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There are a few concerns about overnight volcano treks near Guatemala since bandits have been known to hide out and ambush groups of hikers on Acatenango and Fuego. This happened twice in the week before we took the trip in late 2008. While most local tour companies claim to take 'security', American-run OX Adventures is the only one we found which pays armed, uniformed police officers to accompany the climb. Since these guys have the authority to actually shoot bandits, they're not usually messed with! OX Adventures told us that since they'd starting bringing the police along, they'd never had any trouble, whereas before, all their guides had been ambushed at least once. The police fee is covered by your payment - and they also make for interesting trekking companions!

www.guatemalavolcano.com

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Flores is a small island on Lake Peten set near the beautiful Mayan temple ruins of Tikal. Rooms are easy to find here and Amigos Hostel is by far the most colourful. Remember to get up early and take the 4.40 am tour to tikal. This means you get to see the jungle wake up.

Bus to Flores then minibus to Tikal. Hostel Amigos can be found at www.amigoshostel.com

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