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If you can avoid the slightly disconcerting packs of feral dogs that race across the plateau - and occasionally snarl at cornered tourists - then the Bucegi mountains are fantastic, not least because a cable car ascends to the top. Then it's an undulating plateau culminating in the huge Caraiman cross that overlooks the valley directly and vertiginously below. Airy and easy and fairly quiet until the cross is close.
Google map: bit.ly/JkkLMK
The mountain resort of Sinaia is only a couple of hours from Bucharest and is a must-see on any tour of Romania with its fairy-tale Peles Castle set amongst beautiful pine forests. To add a touch of romance though, you should leave the main town behind and hike or taxi up to stay in the Economat Hotel, which is part of the castle gatehouse and has amazing views. It's beautiful, quiet, and ridulously cheap (30 euros per night for a double room) and even in August, when Bucharest swelters in 35-40 degrees, up in the mountains the night chill forces you to snuggle up close!
hoteleconomat.apps.ro/home/
Incinta Complex Peles - Sinaia, judetul Prahova
+40 244 311 151
Google map: bit.ly/wykcmC
Learn the basics at Poiana Brasov ski-school. Situated deep within the Carpathian mountains. There’s plenty of scope for intermediates too. Bargain breaks are available throughout the season. Enjoy authentic Rumanian food. Apres includes cosy bars with gypsy music, attractive restaurants, massages, sauna, skating, swimming or night skiing.
Venture further afield and explore traditional villages taking in Dracula’s home Bran castle on the way. An enchanting horse-drawn sleigh ride through spectacular scenery remains a treasured memory.
www.poiana-brasov.com/
Google map: bit.ly/wxS4Un
We visited the Pestera Ursilor (cave with cave bear skeletons) at Chiscau and came across the Ethnographic Museum of Mr and Mrs Flutur. They have been collecting farming and household objects for several decades and the place is a treasure trove of everything associated with a rural way of life long since gone in most of Europe. Mr Flutur is a wonderful guide. This was one of many highlights during a month driving through Romania.
From Oradea travel south on the E79 to Beius, then continue south on the E79, turning left to Chiscau.
Google map: bit.ly/qFbWlM
The most stunning road trip in Europe is found in the centre of Romania, stretching from the flat meadows of Cartisoara, across the snow-capped Fagaras mountain peaks, through a spooky 887-metre tunnel, past gushing waterfalls, mountain lakes and that's all before you get to the best bit: the unbelievable snaking descent with more u-turns, corners, cambers, twists and turns than seems humanly possible. The grand finale passes Poenari, the ruined castle on a crag belonging to Vlad the Impaler, the 13th century inspiration for Dracula. The road was constructed by the Romanian army who took five years to complete Nicolae Ceausescu's demonic plan. The Transfagarasan Highway, the second highest in Europe, opened in 1974 and is legendary among bikers for being the best route on the Continent, if not Planet Earth! Ceausescu must be spinning in his grave!
Route 7C
Turn off the E68 Sibiu to Brasov main road just after Scoreiu. The turning is marked for the village of Cartisoara.
The road stretches from Cartisoara in the north to Curtea de Arges and is only open June to October.
Google map: bit.ly/kTU7Wn
It is what it says, and doesn't seem to have a name. Its claim to be included here is that, although most of the books were in Romanian, or (in fact a majority) Hungarian, I found a Broons album there!
Up some steps in a courtyard off the Calea Repubblica, the main (pedestrian) shopping street in Oradea.
Sibiu, while attractive, is actually the largest town in the area. To get a real feel for the region you must stay at Copsamare Guesthouses in Copsamare, two km from Biertan (UNESCO Site) and 45 from Sibiu. This charming guesthouse opened last year and has a combo that's hard to find in this region: good clean service in a B&B that has been built fully respecting local traditions of handicraft and architecture. By staying there you are also contributing to the revival of building techniques handed down through generations of local craftsmen which had almost died out under Ceaucescu. It's also a great spot to relax while walking to other villages in the area, each one has a fortified church with a different unique feature, the door in Biertan, the icon in Malancrav and the sprawling museum in Mosna. The guesthouse is very well run, a welcome relief in Romania, and each guest feels well cared for. Indulge in delicious meals made with homegrown vegetables guilt-free as then you can walk them off in the rolling hills between the villages.
www.copsamare.ro
+40746046200
copsamare@gmail.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/yjl3kba
At this fantastic festival you can combine a few days of watching feature films and documentaries on outdoor and indoor screens with sunbathing on the Black Sea beaches or boat trips on the beautiful delta. Watch out for the pelicans and other bird life. Whether in a chalets or camping, insect repellant essential. Previous festivals have been opened by Ken Loach and Peter Greenaway. The Stufstock Rock festival usually happens immediately after and further along the coast so doing two festivals is possible.
The village of Sfantu Gheorghe(Saint George) in the Danube Delta, accessible only by boat.
www.festival-anonimul.ro/festival_info_en
www.stufstock.com
Near Cluj-Napoca, the village of Negreni ('Fekete to' in Hungarian) transforms into a vast open-air market on the second weekend of October. People arrive from far and wide to eat spicy sausages, drink lethal fruit brandies and catch up with gossip. It's a great place to find ancient musical instruments, crafts, antiques and local colourful characters.
Negreni (Fekete to)
25km west of Huedin on route 1/E60.
Buses and trains from Cluj-Napoca will be packed at fair time. Try hiring a car.
Built in the 18th century by General Buccow and given to the Brukenthal family, it was their summer residence for many years. The Brukenthal Foundation are trying to restore the palace and most easterly Baroque garden in Europe and it's possible to visit the grounds.
Located on the busy E68 Sibiu-Brasov highway.
Open Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, admission free but donations towards restoration welcome
If the Dracula hysteria of the main square in Sighisoara's citadel gets a bit overwhelming (which it can do when the tourists hit the 'Dracula cafe' in summer) nip along a back street towards the Covered Stairway and you'll find the excellent, peaceful terrace of the Casa Cositorarului. Good juices, coffee, cakes and sandwiches. A bit more pricey than some in the lower town but worth it.
Casa Cositorarului
Str. Cositorarilor 9
Sept-May open daily 9am--10pm
June-Aug open daily 9am--midnight
This friendly cyber cafe recently moved location but it is still conveniently situated in the centre of Brasov and continues to provide a great selection of hot and alcoholic drinks. The staff are always on hand to assist customers with xerox, CD burner, card reader, colour printer etc). The internet costs 3RON per hour which is great value.
Cyber Cafe
Str. Republicii 58
Brasov
mobile 0729 589 618
open Mon-Fri 11am-9pm, Sat-Sun 12.30pm-9pm
Danut Marin leads tour groups around the stunning region located by the Piatra Craiului National Park (near Brasov). He is an incredibly knowledgable guide (and won Wanderlust mag's guide of the year 2007) and points out bear tracks, wolf prints and birds soaring high above the mountain forests. Dan's wife prepares delicious home cooked meals with jams and herbal teas and it's possible to stay in elegant, renovated guest rooms.
A real gem.
Danut & Luminita's guesthouse is in Zarnesti, Brasov County, Romania.
www.transylvanianwolf.ro
Nice bar, old, that shows the sports channels and serves a very fine burger - real mince and wholemeal roll. And a half-litre bottle of beer at 5 LEI.
Bottom of the old citadel, on past Jo Bar in the direction of the river. On your left just before your turn right for the bank of shops that includes the CFR.
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