http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34622 A gorgeous profusion of tropical greenery is artfully arranged to frame the magnificent views of Antigua's volcano. In the morning take breakfast on the terrace for the clearest view, and in the afternoon, when the clouds roll in, return to the comforts of tea and a wood fire served in the cosy and comfortable garden living room while the tropical rain beats down.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34622 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34586 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34586 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34266 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34266 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34211 John - the owner and host who made our stay the highlight of Iguazu; spotless rooms in a quiet neighborhood; 7pm drinks to swap stories and laugh; great breakfast.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34211 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34197 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34197 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34132 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34132 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34109 Mardin is a small town in the southeast of Turkey, golden stone house rising in chaotic rows up the side of a rocky escarpment. To the south the land falls away to a vast plain that stretches away into Syria. Tiny rivers incise the heavily irrigated fields and it feels like the view continues on into infinity. However, I was staying in the far less glamorous, but far more affordable new town at the foot of the escarpment, and so for me the view would have to wait until the following day.
After checking in, I set off into the town in search of something to eat. No golden stone houses here, just the usual mess of concrete and brick and nowhere looked promising. Turning down a side street I saw one restaurant, but with no-one sat outside I walked on, hoping to find somewhere better frequented. After a few more minutes I turned back and took a closer look at the first restaurant; the Karburger Kino. Inside it was all fluorescent lighting and Formica tables, but it was also very busy; the locals clearly felt differently to me about what constituted suitable weather for dining al fresco. I walked in and a waist coated waiter handed me a menu and sat me at a table next to an old local man who was also eating alone.
Western pop music was pumping out of restaurants speaker system, but as Christina Aguilera gave way to Carlos Santana I conceded that someone had pretty decent taste. Around me local families were talking and laughing, and the old man at the next table was industriously demolishing a delicious looking combination of meat and rice. After several solid days of grilled meat and flat bread, it looked like heaven. The waiter came back over and I enthusiastically pointed at my neighbour’s dish. He flipped open the menu and pointed at the first item on there; Karburger. It seemed I had ordered the house special.
A few minutes later the waiter returned with my drink and a small plate of mysterious looking starters. I gingerly started eating, and found myself tucking into a selection of local specials, ranging from delicious meatballs fried in bread crumbs to a far less inviting suet based concoction.
Next came the Karburger main; a huge plate of shredded lamb on a bed of rice, with a side bowl of chilli and tomato sauce for pouring over the dish. It was fabulous, and I wolfed it down, but my waiter wasn’t done with me. My sun-chapped lips still stinging from the hot sauce, I was presented with a small Noah’s Pudding, which I finished off with the last bit of space in my stomach filled.
The meal done with and the waiter thanked profusely for the excellent meal, there was only the bill to come. It was 13 Lira, about £5. I paid with a hefty tip and left happy. Staggering back to my hotel, I realised how lucky I had been to stumble onto such a marvellous, local, authentic place. It may not have looked like a great restaurant, but that’s what makes such places such a great surprise!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34109 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34018 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34018 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33999 Somewhere Different is a family-run villa in the heart of Siwa Oasis. The villa has four bedrooms and is set up for self catering (including breakfast supplies replenished each morning with fresh supplies) but traditional food and the centre of Siwa is just five minutes walk away.
When booking the villa, Somewhere Different can also arrange your transport between Siwa and Cairo and arrange tours with local guides for when you are there.
I would recommend the tour of the local sites by donkey and cart (a.k.a Siwa Taxi) and the day in a 4x4 on the dunes.
The best thing about Somewhere Different is a beautiful villa and excellent trips that I could not have organised myself. I wouldn't hesitate to go back.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33999 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33797 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33797 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33741 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33741 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32756 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32756 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32032 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32032 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31536 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31536 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30899 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/30899 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28756 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28756 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28359 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28359 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28336 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28336 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28215 I walked this recently with my friend, a local called Damien who lives in Tanetane, near Portsmouth Dominica. He walked this trail back in the early 80's with many other locals and so we decided to revisit.
We set off from my cottage accommodation at Manicou River Eco Resort, Tanetane. We then walked up the Manicou River until we reached the main road and caught a bus (we were going to hitch a ride but the bus arrived within five minutes) to the trailhead in Pennville. We then walked through farmland and animals for a mile or so until we were truly alone. We never saw another soul until we finished the hike in Capuchin three hours later.
We walked along jungle tracks though very rough farmland with dramatic drops in impossible valleys. Damien told me how the farmers here have to walk to the main road with their loads on their backs and heads to sell in the markets. Many young people are abandoning these farms as the need for gadgets and Game boys mean they need to work in town to earn the bigger money.
We walked through huge bamboo forest and banana plantation. Damien pointed out the various crops and the names of the trees as we hiked our way above the island. Many places we saw the islands of Guadeloupe, Marie Galante and the Saints quite clearly. We were very high.
We came across ruins of old estate houses and an entire village (Delaford) that were abandoned to the jungle with Tarzan vines and huge plants over our heads. Some were 'Birds of Paradise' as big as a small house.
Most visitors don't know that this part of the island is every bit as rich and verdant as any other. This is green lush rainforest but just a few miles from Portsmouth center. The Caribbean side is known as being dry and featureless, but the coastline between Portsmouth and Capuchin is as stunning and dramatic as the Cote d’Azur.
The trail may be getting known now, but it is still a challenge and many times we had to hack our way through fallen bamboo with cutlass (machete). The lovely cooling winds really help though and sitting looking over a half mile deep valley with a cool bottle of water that you just filled from a mountain stream makes you feel a million miles from your desk back in wherever.
You do not need a guide as you can just follow the blue and yellow paint on the sides of rocks and trees. If you take any banana remember to leave a little change for the farmer to find to say “thanks”. Take a cutlass.
The entire trail was cut by hand as there are no roads to access this area. This was no mean feat and when you see the Reposoir Point a deep cut through volcanic rock you can really understand. The whole trail was originally a local route, which the school children of Delaford walked every day to attend school in Pennville. Imagine.
We sat and cooled our feet in lovely streams and listened to nothing, but the sound of running water and our own breathing. There was no aural trace of humans at all. Lovely.
Capuchin beckoned as we entered Degras Balata estate walking through lovely Balata trees and hearing the exotic birds above.
We looked over Cape Melville in Capuchin, which is a stomach churning drop to certain death and said "wow" a lot.
We then bumped into a couple of teachers from Ross Medical University (Portsmouth) and were then driven back to the resort which was nice.
All in all, this is an excellent hike and we were never more than 10 miles from Portsmouth center, but felt a million miles from it all. Go there now.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28215 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26610 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26610