Had a lovely day learning how to play polo and relaxing at a ranch for the day in Buenos Aires. Worried it would be too hard as had only ever ridden once before, but was amazing! Really chilled day, nice and patient teacher, and amaaaaazing barbecue! Best thing i did in BA I reckon. (Also loved the Malba art gallery, and the beautiful rose gardens in Palermo. Best meal (apart from estancia bbq) was at Don Julio in Palermo.

www.guapapolo.com.ar
+54 9 11 5111 8214
Google map: bit.ly/xZpvw8

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Currently spending a year in Buenos Aires, as the new year kicked in I decided to explore. My curiosity led me to the north-west province of Córdoba, home to many of the Argentine clichés, and being a similar if not slightly less hectic version of Buenos Aires, my attention was drawn to the surrounding areas.
This is where I discovered Capilla del Monte, a couple of hours drive to the north. This place is like nowhere I have ever been, nor ever will! On the surface it could be the Peak District (despite the 40 degree January sun), but as soon as the nature of the town captured me, I realised that there was something quite different going on here. And nature is the right word; the town is immensely eco-friendly and its people on the whole are rather spiritual. With the Cerro Uritorco acting as a back drop, this particular mountain is a focal point for the lifestyle of the townspeople.
Firstly I found a bed in a hostel. I was greeted by the smell of incense and a group of very relaxed travellers lying on the floor reading books on the development of the soul. On top of the hostel was a very prominent glass dome, in case of alien contact. This is the point in which I remembered seeing this town on the news last November. In recognition of the 11th November 2011 (11.11.11) at 11.11am (11.11.11.11.11) there was a pilgrimage to the Cerro Uritorco, where thousands of people attempted a huge spiritual connection in the expectation of a greater force making itself present at this exact moment. In fact, later that day I came across three travellers from Buenos Aires going around in a beautiful old VW, who had arrived on the 11.11.11 and had stayed there ever since.
And so, with this as an introduction, the atmosphere of the town seemed to fit this entirely. With many healing places, health food shops and almost all the hotels including the word 'natural' in some way, this place was unique.
What had initially drawn me to the town was the countryside around it, so the next day I went for a stroll by the river. This in fact turned into a seven hour hike up the Cerro Uritorco, which claims (and is fully believed) to be home to an energetic epicentre serving as a portal to the first intergalactic cosmic communication centre on Earth. Now there's something you don't get in the Peak District. The presence of aliens in the region is completely believed and accepted, and many sightings have been reported.
Spending a few days in this town certainly made me leave with a sense of wonderment - perhaps due to the amazement of such a strong sense of belief and spirituality, or perhaps due to my own resulting questions of the cosmos! This place is one of a kind, and everybody is most welcome here. Forming a part of my entire Latin America journey so far, this has been one of the highlights, and was certainly an interesting start to 2012!

www.capilladelmonte.com.ar/
Accessible from Cordoba mini-bus station (mercado sur), through the company Sarmiento. Journey costs around 30-40 pesos and takes 2-3 hours.
Google map: bit.ly/wR1yIp

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Starting the new year like no other, I spent this new year's eve in Buenos Aires. Expecting a casual night on my terrace with a barbeque, this turned into an unforgettable party experience.
After doing the ritual midnight celebration, we then ate dinner and drank fernet (a herbal Italian spirit which has been adopted by Argentines) until around 3am. At this point we decided to head to the planetarium which lies in the Bosques de Palero (the Palermo forest). Here there was an enormous crowd of all ages, dancing with their fernet by the beautifully lit planetarium. I was unsure as to why everybody had sunglasses at the ready. When it got to around 7am it hit me, the blinding sun rose from above the trees and the crowd went wild! Slowly the crowds headed towards shade as the night turned into a hot summer's day, and at 9am we went home on the bus with the commuters. During this journey we narrowly avoided being struck by a flying bin which had been loaded with dynamite, but explosions aside it was an amazing experience and a brilliant start to 2012.

www.planetario.gov.ar/
Av. Sarmiento y Figueroa Alcorta- Palermo - Buenos Aires, Argentina
+54 11 4771-9393
Google map: bit.ly/wAQCsd

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Hostel opened few months ago near from Plaza Serrano (place with a lot of bars, restaurants and clubs really great at night!) well located! nice house,rooms are clean, cool and relaxing atmosphere, great music. We even made a barbecue on the terrace.
You'll appreciate the contrast between the crazy Buenos Aires and this haven.

www.playhostel.com
Guatemala 4636, 1425 Palermo, Capital Federal, Argentina
+54 11 6091 9051
Google map: bit.ly/zurvvM

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This hostel felt like staying at home! It is run by Miriam, Lucas and Hector, a lovely Argentine family that treat you like you are part of their family. The hostel is charming and clean, and the staff helped book excursions and make the best of my time in Ushuaia. The breakfast is better than most hostels - including Argentine medialunas, or croissants.

www.laposta-ush.com.ar/
Peron Sur 864, Ushuaia Tierra del Fuego
+54 2901 444650
Google map: bit.ly/rxbLup

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These waterfalls are utterly amazing - and if you are going to be anywhere within a couple of hours flying time of Iguazu airport it is definitely a trip that is worth making. Of course, there are scores of really rather comfortable long-distance coaches that also go to Iguazu.
We would strongly recommend (as had been suggested to us by John Fernandes the brilliant host of an excellent small B&B in Puerto Iguazu "The Secret Garden") that you see the Falls from the Brazilian side of the river first; this gives you a slowly unfolding vista of the Falls (80% of which are on the Argentinian side of the river) and the unbelievable picture postcard just gets larger and bigger and wider.
Then later see and experience the Falls from right up close on the Argentinian side of the river. An extraordinary visceral experience. No natural phenomenon anywhere has in any way matched the power and beauty of the Falls.
It's probably best to try to go at towards the end of the day when there will be far fewer people - and, ideally out of the height of the tourist season. October was ideal: neither too hot nor too humid - perfect spring weather.
Remember that dengue fever has re-appeared in the region and use lots of serious insect repellent.
And you will almost certainly get very wet (even if you do not take the boat into/under the Falls) so think about waterproof protection for cameras etc.
On the Brazilian side there is also a good bird park; while on the Argentinian side there are several great walks through the semi-tropical forest.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iguazu_Falls

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Before we went to The Secret Garden last month, I was somewhat sceptical as to how anywhere could have elicited so many wholly favourable remarks. But there's absolutely no doubt at all: for us the Secret Garden lived up to every possible expectation.
From the very first moment that John shows you round town and then offers a cooling drink, through the excellent (and seemingly endless) caipirinhas, tapas and snacks in the early evening, to the extremely generous and tasty breakfasts with home-made jams, and the lovely evening conversations with John as a charming host: it is an entirely delightful and special experience.
John's advice on how best to divide your precious time in Iguazu - as well as on restaurants, transport or any other question - can be followed unhesitatingly.
We spent three full days in Iguazu and enjoyed our time enormously. Even the after-effects of a huge tropical storm that wiped out some two-thirds of a precious day was leavened by John's generosity and our fellow guests' company.
The staff who cannot do too much to help, bouncy Roxy the Jack Russell, the chalet room that has everything one could want, the lovely garden ... and, above all, John. Truly a very very special experience.

www.secretgardeniguazu.com/
Los Lapachos 623, Puerto Iguazu N3370JMC, Argentina
+54 3757 423099

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I completely agree with the tip submitted by my sister (hana11)for Calbagatas Ranch near Salta. I rode from the age of 7 to 16 but had minimal practice since, so at the age of 27 I decided it was time to get back in the saddle among the gauchos in Argentina (and drag my sister with me!)
Needless to say that our day of trekking did not disappoint and from the moment we were collected in a private car from our hostel we were treated like good friends of Enrique and his staff. We were lucky enough to be the only visitors to the ranch that day and so received breakfast with the staff before heading out for three hours of riding.
We meandered through stunning scenery past golden fields, deserted brooks and streams and tree lined lanes all surrounded by a backdrop of soaring mountains. Our guide treated us to stories of gaucho life in the mountains and highlighted elements of rural life as we rode. He was understanding of our varying levels of experience and when it came to galloping he was encouraging but not forceful, choosing safe areas and even galloping alongside where necessary!
We were treated as guests of honour at lunch among the staff and Enrique and his team insisted we eat more fantastic steak and drank more of their home made wine-so who were we to resist?! It did make the three-hour ride in the afternoon less enticing but the beautiful scenery and postcard sunset drove us on.
There were so many highlights to our trip in Argentina but our day at the Cabalgatas ranch is a strong contender for the top spot. Enrique and his team provide a genuine gaucho experience in a market where there are so many competitors of questionable authenticity. I am so glad I chose their ranch for my re-introduction to riding but on my next visit I will go for the overnight trek into the mountains and hopefully my sister will be a little less reluctant to join me!

www.english.saltacabalgatas.com.ar/index.html
+54 9 387 6836565
Chicoana - Salta / Argentina
Google map: bit.ly/uhLvxx

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Before visiting Sayta-Cabalgatas I had never been horse riding before, nor had I had any desire to do so. In fact, my planned day of city sightseeing in Salta had become waylaid by my sister, who had been strongly recommended that if there was one thing we were to do while travelling in Argentina, it would be to visit this place. Still, I could have happily ignored the recommendation, especially as this would mean avoiding having to confess that horses actually scare me senseless. Yet wanting to avoid any arguments, and being the younger, I eventually gave in to her persuasion.
On arrival at the ranch the welcoming gauchos at Sayta assured me they had been riding since they were two years old, and began competing in rodeos not long after, so I was in the very best of hands. Still, sitting 5ft from the ground, I felt no more at ease. Once we set out, however, I soon left behind any anxieties that I'd had. As we were led down gentle shaded streams with stunning views of the Andes constantly at our side, what I thought would be a nerve-racking ride became a peaceful and relaxing few hours in the most beautiful surroundings, with no other people in sight.
The morning ride was also a great way to work up an appetite for a large Argentine parilla at lunch! As soon as we came close to conquering the stack of meat before us, Enrique, the owner of the ranch, would top up our plates (and our wine glasses!). We just about managed to climb back onto our horses for a further three hours of trekking, by the end of which, and due to a slight mistranslation, I was galloping across the dusty and deserted Lerma valley.
We were driven back to our hostel that evening as we sipped mate and the sun set over the mountainous landscape, and I realised that this was exactly the image I had of a South American ranch. A truly unforgettable day and the perfect introduction to horseriding - gaucho style!

www.english.saltacabalgatas.com.ar/index.html
+54 9 387 6836565
Google map: bit.ly/uhLvxx

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Living the Gaucho life... which basically consists of horses, wine, steak and music!
A horse riding trip with Reto Cabalgatas in an experience not to miss. No luxury, no ranch and not at all 'touristy'.
We started our trip into the mountains by making an offering to Pacha Mama. After heading up the trail, glimpsing beautiful mountains through the trees, and listening to Tono playing on his flute or harmonica, we came out into the open to be greeted by the most incredible view. There we were, high up in the mountains, with not a soul around. All around us was lush greenery and mountains, a huge lake, and, if we looked carefully, we could just about see the stream from where we started. I found it hard to believe we had come up so far. We moved into a shaded clearing for a lunch of cheese, salami and bread, all cut using Tono's gaucho knife, and his leather chaps as a table cloth.
That night we stayed in a Gaucho hut that was certainly authentic; it had been in Tono's family for over 50 years.
We had an amazing asado - with some of the nicest beef I've ever eaten. None of us had plates or cutlery, it was all cut up on the chopping board and we all ate from that.
After much wine, singing, music and chatting (as well as a few more layers of clothing) we were all ready for bed.
The next morning we got up early and, although we didn't quite make the sunrise, the mists hanging over the mountains, and the colours of the early morning clouds were beautiful and breathtaking. As we huddled with our sleeping bags wrapped round us, the clouds came over the mountains behind us and the feeling was magical.
I hadn't planned to go horse riding in the mountains, but I'm glad I did. I can honestly say that it was one of the best experiences of my life.

www.retohorseriding.com
+543874862918 from Argentina.
+5493874862918 from overseas
www.retohorseriding.com

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I visited Los Potreros, a 6,000 acre working cattle ranch in Argentina, during August - cold enough for the wood burning stove in my bedroom to be lit every evening, warm enough by day to lie in a hammock with the companionship of a polite dog. Our hosts, the Begg brothers, matched us intuitively to our perfect horse and demonstrated the laid-back Western style. Accompanied by attentive gauchos, our tack ex-army saddles covered with sheepskins, saddle bags full of picnic, we visited a school, a church, and a waterfall where I swam. We rode through scents of violet, peppermint and honeysuckle, glimpsing hares and burrowing owls. Our long-maned horses floated with the Peruano Paso gait, a mixture of riding Dougal and a rocking horse. At night the carpet was pushed back after each of the cook’s unparalleled meals, and the gauchos played guitars, danced and sang. Hot water bottles awaited us in our shuttered rooms, comfortable with rows of books and ancient family photos. By the end of the week I had tried polo, seen horses being branded, and was eating my meat like a gaucho, bloody as it comes.

www.estancialospotreros.com/
Los Potreros CC64, 5111 Rio Ceballos, Córdoba, Argentina
+54 (0)11 6091 2692
Google map: bit.ly/tZMCg5

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I was undecided on how to proceed in life and resolved to substitute spiralling brain bashing with the endless plains of Patagonia. Not only a place to find consolations in a downturn it is also a place of ravishing history and tradition. Antoine, the French-born ranch owner I was working for had all that comes with the stationary soul-seeker archetype one imagines finally ends up at the very end of the world, no more illusions to be chased and cheap land to be bought. I found him through WWOOF, an organization that offers volunteer opportunities on farms all over the world – most of their farms are organic with close ties to the local community, WWOOF farmers usually sustain life through small scale farming and selling arts and crafts in town. The icy steel of Antoine’s gaze was not set on the table in front of him, but addictedly fixed to the horizon, the colt in his belt lining a constant reminder that we were ploughing the land of the Sundance Kid. I never saw the Sunday market, and the closest I got to arts and crafts was when I patched together that one pair of denim I came to treasure as my own flesh. The uneasy restlessness I had felt in that other so abiding world of the West was shot dead and trampled down by the wild herds of llamas that migrate on these endless steppes. Working with my bare hands, escaping the sedating luxury of technology and convenience saw me not only discover some of the most beautiful landscapes of what truly is a New World, but crossing the desolate and untraveled Pampas, I also galloped through the unexplored lands within.
I lived in Santa Cruz province in Argentina for three months, doing all sorts of jobs, sometimes accompanied by nothing but the starriest skies of the world and what you are telling yourself is not a puma but the distant sound of an American V8. There are so many ranches that have a bed and a horse for you if you wholeheartedly chip in. Check out WWOOFs homepage and get lookin’! The membership fee is almost symbolic and goes to a collective cause. Gauchos are stubborn but welcoming and always ready to share a mate of mate and their all-remedious humour with you. Although I strongly recommend staying for some time and working, ranch owners usually encourage you to spend at least two weeks with them before packing up. Are you only passing through Antoine and the neighbouring ranch owners also offer to take you around on horse back for up to weeklong trips at a set fee.

Quickest way to get there is by plane, other options being the sleeper bus (where the options are many and although slow, it is comfortable). Airfares are not appalling and Aerolineas Argetinas and LADE are good options. To get to Gobernador Gregores, do as I did. Fly to Rio Gallegos, hop on the bus towards El Bolsón and wake up happy in Gregores about 8 hours later. Taxis are available from the bus station if you need to be taken out to any of the farms. Taxi drivers know the surrounding ranch owners by name, but out of courtesy I advise you to contact them before hand. Spanish is not a must, but you may at times feel panicky without it.

Marc Antoine Calonne of Estancia Santa Thelma
www.santathelma.com/

World Wide Opportunites on Organic Farms
www.wwoof.org/

Air Carriers:
Aerolineas Argentinas
www.aerolineas.com.ar/home.asp
LADE
www.lade.com.ar/

Sleeper Bus:
www.viabariloche.com.ar/

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I visited Salta for some respite after traveling through from Columbia and the countries southwards. Salta feels luxurious after the tough living conditions of Bolivia and a 24hour bus journey from Potosi.
Staying at lower altitude, with its warmth, oxygen, shops that sell stuff you need was really useful, as was the vast improvement in cuisine.
Two days after my arrival I booked to go riding on a ranch an hour south of Salta.
There I met the family, who'd farmed the area for generations. Their herdsmen showed me the horses. They were huge, magnificent beasts, far larger than anything I'd previously ridden. I was given one, and we set out. A full day's riding destroyed me. The herdsmen rode their horses like they were attached to them, effortlessly and painlessly. I tried to keep up. A mountain of a horse, galloping at full speed is something of beauty and also of terror as you hold the reins with one hand, balance with the other behind you and grip the horse with your thighs.
I've rarely been filled with such terror and exhilaration. I am a novice horse rider so the horse seemed to have control of the situation, adding further to the sense that I had less control over the situation than I would have liked to have.
I survived. The gaucho's were great, interesting guy's who loved their horses and their lives. I ate that evening with the family. The father was in charge of grilling the most perfect meat (beef and lamb) and the table was covered with delicious food and gorgeous local wine.
I ached afterward for a week! My tip is warm up, warm down and maybe select a horse that is small and is almost ready for the big ranch in the sky. You may not have the adrenaline based excitement, but at least you may be able to walk again.

There are a handful of farms that allow you to ride. I found the place via my hostel in Salta - sorry I don't have the details.

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It is a 400-year-old Estancia, in northwest Argentina, where you can join in and experience the activities at the ranch. Horseback riding with the local cowboys or gauchos, and in the afternoon a wonderful asado or Argentinian bbq with the hosts. Very welcoming, beautiful and relaxing place to stay.

www.estanciaelbordo.com
+5493875041980
Google map: bit.ly/rXVdUt

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Sayta means “where time stands still” in Aymara - and it certainly does in this beautiful Argentinian ranch, nestled among tobacco fields, in Chicoana, about 40km south of Salta. Its charismatic owner, Enrique, presides over a business that is obviously his great pride and joy. We had booked a half day’s horse-riding, great for beginners like us, but there are also longer tours for more experienced riders, and accommodation in the white-washed colonial-style estancia. Rufillo, our laid-back gaucho, took us out riding on two very docile horses. You either walk or gallop. Gauchos don’t trot, he told us. Three hours later, and slightly saddle-sore, we were ready for lunch - a huge barbecue or asado with succulent meats, delicious salads and copious amounts of local red wine. We wished time could have stood still for much longer.

www.saltacabalgatas.com.ar
+54156836565
Google map: bit.ly/uhLvxx

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Posada de la Laguna in the north east of Argentina was quite the most special place I've ever stayed. It was a four hour 4x4 drive from the city of Posadas on the Paraguayan border deep into the heart of the Iberà wetlands to the luxurious yet homely ranch where four of us stayed. On a quiet boat ride at dusk, with a guide who knew his environment and who was intuitive of his guests' level of interest, we marvelled at the caiman, the carpincho and wealth of bird life. We rode bare back with a gaucho in the pampas and ate delicious food served to us communally without the need of menu deliberations. If ever there was a place to feel at one with the world, Posada de la Laguna truly is it.

www.posadadelalaguna.com/
In the Nature Reserve village of Carlos Pellegrini, in the Province of Corrientes.
(+54) 3773-499413
Google map: bit.ly/rY91XA

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Iguazu waterfalls is absolutely beautiful. If you can I recommend doing both the Argentinian and Brazillian side of the falls. We were lucky enough to see sunset over the falls and took a boat ride in front of the falls on the Argentinian side.

www.iguazuargentina.com/english

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Vamos Spanish Academy is a language and cultural school based in Buenos Aires. It is an absolute hidden gem, the staff are fantastic and very helpful. We took a Yerba Mate workshop, a cultural workshop and they organised a tango class for us. They arranged bike tours too but the weather did not permit - something for next time.

www.vamospanish.com
Coronel Díaz 1736, Palermo, Buenos Aires, Argentina
+54 11 53520001
Google map: bit.ly/o8idJu

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The best steak I had in Buenos Aires. A cool, cosy little restaurant in Microcentro. Have the dada steak and go for one of their house cocktails!

San Martin 947, Buenos Aires, Argentina
Google map: bit.ly/pJKHFT

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A great way to explore parts of the city tourists don't normally see. A really fun tour, in the form of a photography based treasure hunt around the streets of Buenos Aires.

www.foto-ruta.com
+54 11 6030 8881

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