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You may need directions to find it as it looks like any other house on the street, But step in through the Gate of the walled garden and its like entering a secret garden full of artistic magic (hence the name), because everywhere you look (and I mean everywhere) there is something to make you say "look at that", and almost everything is for sale, from paintings and drawings to sculptures. It's not just thrown around like an old brick-a-brack shop but placed to make you look and look around some more, around every corner and in every alcove there is something to see. You can watch Jan D'esopo (the owner) and her team create right in front of you and you're welcome to get involved, even if its only as an artists model! A truly relaxing place to just sit around and look at things, you could almost be in any colonial house in any part of the world. Or you could take a dip in the unique pool, which is tucked away in the garden. In the evening you can join Jan and guests for a drinks reception or even go to the music room to listen to some live music! there are five different types of room (22 in all) all individually named and decorated, no two the same. I didn't see a single TV and there is an honour bar which was nice. It's the perfect stopover for somewhere different, or to start/finish a cruise. I don't think it would appeal to everyone, however, give it a go you maybe surprised. There is one thing: PLEASE, don't tell anyone as it's a secret!
www.thegalleryinn.com
204-206 Norzagary, Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
+1 787 722 1808
Google map: bit.ly/wn5L97
Among the most beautiful Italian cities, Florence is a favoured location when it comes to romance. This Tuscan city is fairly small and its well-known attractions, such as the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio, are within walking distances. Although it is a very touristic destination, there are countless quieter spots for a romantic proposal. Couples can enjoy a stroll or a picnic in the Boboli Gardens, or use the service of a “Renaiolo” for a boat trip on the River Arno. Climbing the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo rewards visitors with stunning views of the city and a few more steps take you to another Florentine treasure: San Miniato al Monte. Of course a romantic weekend in Florence would not be complete without the delicious food, wine and ice cream on offer.
www.visitflorence.com
Google map: bit.ly/whHfN8
Sleek accommodation on this laid-back, modern-art loving island, with views over the tranquil Sea of Japan, as well as of Kusama Yayoi's giant spotted pumpkin on the seashore. Desert island bliss and a change of pace guaranteed.
www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/benessehouse/
Gotanji, Naoshima, Kagawa 7613110 Japan
+81 (0)87 892 3223
Google map: bit.ly/AAfBjY
Visiting London we happened upon a free drop-in drawing session at the National Portrait Gallery. The welcoming tutor placed sheaf of cartridge paper and some pencils in our hands and we were away! A great hour's fun. Even my wife, who hates drawing, found it engaging and was proud of her finished efforts, which we still have.
www.npg.org.uk/
St Martin's Place, London WC2H 0HE
+44 (0) 20 7306 0055
Google map: bit.ly/wMtJSN
Fantastic exhibition of beautiful artworks by Bill Reid in downtown Vancouver.
Bill Reid was an acclaimed Haida master goldsmith, carver, sculptor, writer and spokesman, and one of Canada's greatest artists.
His artwork ranges from exquisite gold and silver jewellery to full sized totem poles and ocean-going canoes carved from massive timbers. These pieces embody his evolving interpretation of his native heritage and how he extended the traditional artistic vocabulary to embrace modern ideas and forms. He played a pivotal role in reviving interest in native art forms among the younger generations of Canada's First Nations, and in presenting those arts to a wider world.
There is a small entrance fee for the museum but it is worth every penny to see such a great collection of Reid's work gathered together under one roof.
www.billreidgallery.ca
639 Hornby Street, Vancouver, BC, Canada V6C 2G3
+1 604 682 3455
Google map: bit.ly/z0j18u
On the Salford's neglected Chapel Street, once the city centre but now much in the shadow of its close Mancunian neighbour, there has suddenly appeared 'the modernist' shop, filled with modernist and architecturally inspired prints, photographs, art and designed objects. Illuminated by an artwork made from redundant signage and including mini Granada TV Centres, and Tower Block mugs, tea towels inspired by 'brutal' Park Hill and Salford's Shopping City, the shop has been opened as a 'fundraiser' by the Manchester Modernist Society and publishers of 'the modernist' magazine.
www.the-modernist-mag.co.uk/pop-up-shop
142 Chapel Street, Salford, M3 6AF
+44(0)161 839 5460
Google map: bit.ly/ru9m4H
This museum of early twentieth-century German and Austrian art and design has a fabulous collection of art including many pieces by Egon Schiele and Klimt.
It also has two delightful cafes serving Viennese style food, wonderful cakes and gorgeous breakfasts. It's quite small and a refreshing change from some of the enormous museums in New York that can quickly exhaust you. Also it's not far from the marvellous Frick collection which is also fairly small and "do-able"
www.neuegalerie.org/
1048 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10028
+1 (212) 628 6200
Google map: bit.ly/uVgiK6
Planning a trip to Beijing? The city's temples are beautiful. The Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven are preserved as symbols of China's past greatness and are amazing links to its dynastic past. The city also maintains strong links to its more modern communist history. The Military Museum in the capital is a grand five story statement of the Chinese Communist Party. It is also a shopaholics paradise: The Hoziadiao Pearl Market is the place for electronics, clothes and of course pearls, or Sanlitun village is a shiny new mall complex full of designer names and youthful, fashionable Beijingers and foreigners. What if you get 'templed out' or the flourescent lights of the malls start giving you a head ache? Get in a taxi and say, 'Seven, Nine, Eight'.
The 798 district encapsulates a cosmopolitan and artistic face of the city that is hard to find anywhere else. Sat in one of the gallery come cafe's in old construction warehouses, as young Beijingers strut past with designer handbags hanging from their arms, it is easy to mistake this stretch of the city as somewhere in Paris, or London.
It presents a refreshing break from the tourist bedlam surrounding other famous sites, it also has a classy, modern air which a lot of Beijing lacks. Modernisation in China often takes an obscure form, trying to westernise is hard when you have such little exposure to the West. 798 on the other hand has created is own identity. Young Chinese artists have come together to create a small haven in their capital away from political conformity.
Another surprising fact is the subtle mockery of the Communist party line which is followed across Beijing and China. One sculpture on a side street has a bronze bust of the peasant jacket, which Chairman Mao was always pictured wearing. Yet over the top of the bust is a Chinese porcelein bra and bunny ears.
One gallery had Mao's infamous figure strolling along in traditional peasant garb - yet this time his head had been replaced by a cow, another sculpture had a dog's head. Surely the Chairman would be turning in his grave, or mausloeum to be more precise.
A photo gallery off one of 798's many side streets had several symbolic pictures from the Cultural Revolution. This time the Great Leader was not Mao but Barack Obama. Calling on the people to join his revolution! Uh oh! Mao's mausoleum glass might have just shattered!!
The majority of people walking around or enjoying 798 cafes and restaurants were Western or wealthy Chinese sporting designer this and that. Maybe authorities are blase about the influence of art, or cannot understand its symbolism themselves. Regardless, 798 is not only a refreshing break from the chaos of Beijing, but a refreshing place for young Chinese to have a voice, through art they can stand up to the rigid and conformist Chinese system.
Many guidebooks will focus on the beautiful temples, parks or the shopping spots in Beijing. However few places are able to show you a different face to the Chinese capital. I am not suggesting you do not visit Beijing's beautiful temples and impressive museums. 798 though is a change, you will not find it anywhere else. Even if there is still a touristic air to the place - this appears impossible to escape in Beijing. So pay a visit, be refreshed, then dive back into the malls.
www.798space.com/index_en.asp
No. 4 Jiuxian Bridge Road / 酒仙桥路4号 (在大山子) in Dashanzi District, north east of city centre.
Transport: Subway to Dongzhi men then No. 401 bus OR 20 Minute Taxi journey from CBD.
Google map: bit.ly/rBSHQF
This is the artist Manriques house. Built in 1968 it holds a strong test of time for great design and inspiration. Manrique used the remaining underground chambers and lava bubbles from an eruption in the early 1730's to create this subterranean wonder. The rooms are painted cool white with a lot of classic 60's style furnishings inside. There are little outside bits where the earths crust must have broken and these create pretty areas with water features and some are natural atriums to let the strong sunlight in. This place is truly unique thanks to the genius of Manrique.
www.cesarmanrique.com
C/ Volcán de Tahiche, S/N, 35507 Teguise (Lanzarote), Spain
+34 928 84 31 38
Google map: bit.ly/n8ohFo
Built from a design by artist and architect Cesar Manrique, the Jameos del Agua in Lanzarote is a definite must see. A “jameo” forms when the ceiling of a tunnel collapses due to volcanic activity and forms an enclosure or lake. In this venue, visitors walk through the connecting caves, where, thanks to the great mind of Manrique, every corner hides new surprises. Plants are beautifully arranged and the azure waters of a large swimming pool, surrounded by smooth, white stone and palms, is like something out of a James Bond film! There is also a little museum of volcanism – with wonderful views over the compound and interactive sections for guaranteed family fun!
www.lanzaroteguidebook.com/article/jameos-del-agua
Google map: bit.ly/pmpjS6
A new and exciting arts complex, just arriving and walking around is like immersing yourself within a wonderful sculpture. The new programme of theatre includes Kevin Spacey's Richard III and a wide range of cinema and exhibitions. But do wear sun glasses, even on a cloudy day!
niemeyercenter.org/
Calle de José Manuel Pedregal, 20, 33401 Avilés, Spain
+34 985 512 675
Google map: bit.ly/nI9Tce
Summer may be over (if it was ever really here) but there is plenty to look forward to in the Autumn. I’ll be heading to the 2011 Biennial Art Nouveau event, taking place over the final four weekends of October, and this year with a special focus on Victor Horta (born 150 years ago). Visitors sign up for guided tours of Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings: this appeals to my interest in the architecture of this period, but also to my incurable nosiness, as many of the places featured are private houses not usually open to the public! Each weekend covers a different area of the city. You can either book a passport for a particular weekend, or buy a pass for the whole event. The website helpfully lists some Art Nouveau bars and restaurants to try as well.
The event is organised by voir et dire Bruxelles: a roundtable group of tourism associations – each with their own specialism and offering a variety of bus, cycle or walking tours in French, Dutch or English. If you miss the biennial event, keep an eye out for their themed tours taking place at other times of the year.
www.voiretdirebruxelles.be/biennale
www.voiretdirebruxelles.be/
2-4 Rue Royale, 1000 Bruxelles
+32 (0)2 563 61 51
Google map: bit.ly/obSjyQ
* Bec is our Been there local for Brussels. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/brussels-local-rebecca.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/Becinbrussels
Third Thursday in September an open art exhibition in the old town area of Palma. Not only galleries but public buildings and shops open their doors with an amazing variation of art exhibitions. It all takes place with a lively fiesta atmosphere with people wandering in and out of exhibitions with a glass of wine looking and listening to everything that is taking place.
Old town area in Palma, Mallorca
www.seemallorca.com/nit-de-l%27art--palma-de-mallorca.html
Google map: bit.ly/pFOMR8
Just completed a mutli-million dollar refit and it looks stunning both inside and out. As good as you will get anywhere in the world.
www.aucklandartgallery.com/
Corner of Kitchener and Wellesley Streets, Auckland, 1010
+64 9 379 1349
Google map: bit.ly/pcuaUy
The contemporary arts forum White Night (Baltā Nakts) presents art, theatre, music,
movement and other art projects and performances. Every year White Night is organized all over the city at the end of August/beginning of September. ‘White Night 2011’ will be here on 10th of September. More than 65 art, music, theater, survival, performance
events in former factory VEF, Spikeri, Miera street, Old Town, and the centre of Riga
and in suburbs. Enjoy the beauty of arts all night long for free, heading form one place to
another! White Night forum is organized by Riga City Council Department of Culture in
cooperation with the active Latvian cultural organizations, involving a number of Latvian
and foreign artists. The city’s cafes, galleries, bookstores, clubs and other establishments
take an active part in the forum.
„White Night” is part of the joint “European White Nights” project by Brussels, Madrid,
Paris, Riga and Rome. This idea is also adopted by Amsterdam, Bucharest, Porto and
Valletta (Malta), as well as Toronto, Tokyo, Montreal, Chicago and other cities.
www.li.lv/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=283&Itemid=1
* Kristine is our Been there local for Riga. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/riga-local-kristine.jsp and she has her own blog here: www.friendinriga.blogspot.com
To promote the new season of Boardwalk Empire, HBO is running a restored 1920s subway train on the 2/3 lines each weekend in September. You can catch the vintage train at the 96th, 72nd, and 42nd streets. I can't wait to check out the rattan seats, ceiling fans, and old-fashioned windows!
www.fastcompany.com/1777858/mta-goes-back-in-time-for-boardwalk-empire-promo
* Amanda is our Been there local for New York. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/new-york-local-amanda-green.jsp and her own NYC blog here: www.noisiestpassenger.com/
imes Square isn't the easiest place to meet up with your friends, what with it being the "Crossroads of the World" and all. Until September 16, those quick on their feet can grab a spot in one of the Meeting Bowls at 46th and Broadway. The semi-enclosed bowls accommodate many people and make it possible to sit down while still taking in the view. They're designed to bring locals and tourists together, so don't be afraid to sit with strangers.
www.timessquarenyc.org/about_us/art_ts.html
Google map: bit.ly/oLLkoB
* Amanda is our Been there local for New York. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/new-york-local-amanda-green.jsp and her own NYC blog here: www.noisiestpassenger.com/
“It’s not really a museum – or it was, or might have been”, muses Jan Bucquoy. I allow my eyes to flit around the room and take in his collection of wall collages. I see Napoleon, Michael Jackson,
Lenin, Hitler - all with brazen red lips and lacy fabric on their heads. Only Magritte’s head has an apple instead, “I thought that surrealism was already strange enough!” Chuckles Bucquoy. Moving over to take a closer look at one of the exhibits, I read the solemn notice:
“Please complete the aforementioned coupon and return it together with your pants.”
So here I am in Brussels’ anti-Museum of underpants, which has persisted in various locations since its creation in 1990, fanning the infamous reputation of its already infamous creator. Of course it’s an anti-museum because it doesn’t just represent dead things: the owners of some of the pants are very much alive! And for Bucquoy this is not art for art’s sake, it is reminding us that we all wear underpants, that we are all ... equal! Giggling aside, perhaps there’s some truth in the juxtaposition
of power and lace: stern portraits of Sarkozy, Clinton and de Gaulle all seem less intimidating with a pair of frilly ladies’ smalls on their head. And what of Bucquoy? “No, the Director doesn’t wear pants”, he says, mischievously.
This small sample of Bucquoy’s extensive collection is displayed in De Dolle Mol, a weathered Flemish bar re-opened after rising rents forced it to close; and now supported by the Flemish community, sometimes hosting musicians and cultural events. Linked to the liberation of women, the birth of the Flemish Amnesty International movement and the B-generation, this place has always been the home of dreamy revolutionaries and self-styled outlaws, and seems to be attracting fans from the school-age generation as well. On Thursday or Friday evenings you may even bump into Bucquoy.
21 May in Belgium used to be the day for Bucquoy’s mock “Coup d’état”. There’s no need for that at the moment, as Belgium has no elected government, no mandate for raising taxes, and for Bucquoy, things are working rather well. So his focus is on future projects: touring the Musée du Slip to New York or London; sending out another 1000 letters to solicit new exhibits; directing the second part
of his film “Camping Cosmos” (which will again feature Noël Godin, perhaps the original and most successful “entarteur” ever – cream pie throwing tormenter of public figures such as Bill Gates and Bernard-Henri Lévy). But, Bucquoy grins, “I always come back to the pants.”
De Dolle Mol is open Wednesday to Sunday from 16:00
Rue des Eperonniers 52, 1000 Brussels
Google map: bit.ly/p96Qus
* Bec is our Been there local for Brussels. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/brussels-local-rebecca.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/Becinbrussels
Sculpture park and contemporary art foundation set in a large wooded park. Some permanent, some temporary works, by both well known and emerging artists from around the world. The sculpture trail is exceptionally well organised and being set in woodland, each work is hidden from view until you're almost on top of it, making it feel like a treasure hunt. We visited in July and only came across one other family which really made us feel like we were explorers! As well as the sculpture trail, there are also temporary exhibition spaces inside the old bunkers (part of an old military complex, abandoned since the 70s), and a cafe. The staff were also extremely friendly and helpful and it was only 5 euros to get in. A real unexpected pleasure and an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon.
www.fundacionnmac.com
Dehesa Montemedio, Vejer de la Frontera, Cadiz
+34 956 455 134
Google map: bit.ly/psoGyW
Old-style boozer in the heart of Peckham with a pool table and cheap pints. Local artists hold exhibitions of their work in the back room.
96 Peckham High Street, London SE15 5ED
+207 639 2490
Getting there: overground train to Peckham Rye, buses 12, 36, 171, 436
Google map: bit.ly/nr4x0Q
* Lucy is the Been there local for London. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/london-local-lucy-mallows.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LucyRM.jsp
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