http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17618
Up a spiral staircase is the sauna world where there are many different saunas and steam rooms, including two outside in log cabins. At the top of the stairs you must remove your costumes and place then in an open pigeon-hole, as this is a strictly nude-only area. Occasionally a visitor doesn't realise this and is usually quickly approached by a staff member and told to disrobe or leave! Good really I suppose as it stops any voyeur element being there. Although the nudity feels odd at first we got used to it incredibly quickly and it just felt right. However you must have a towel with you when you enter the saunas or use the loungers in the rest areas - this must be placed underneath you so that no part of your body is directly touching the seat - this includes your feet. Wandering around or sitting in the communal area it seems about half the people wrap themselves in a towel the other half go naked - either is perfectly acceptable. The whole place is a quiet area with people talking quietly, there is piped ambient music throughout, and combined with the nudity make this one of the most relaxing few hours anyone could spend. Went there a few times when we were in the Baden area and at all times in the sauna world area there was a fairly 'normal' mix of genders and ages, and all shapes and sizes - again helping make this a great place to be.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17618 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12864
A soothing, indulgent atmosphere is created by the glistening white of the marble, and the illuminated blue water that plays patterns across the dark red plaster walls, faded wooden ceilings and archways. Your journey through the baths is guided by shimmering scented candles and Arabic lamps. Visits last for 90 minutes but you must book ahead, as they limit numbers due to its popularity. It is open until midnight, if you fancy a late dip.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12862 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12862 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12114
This huge Turkish bath is a relic from the Ottoman empire, and has cavernous steam rooms and plunge pools. The building is completely authentic, you are welcome to just sit and relax, or have a fantastic massage which leaves you wobbly when you stand.

Locals go regularly, and it is said to be a great cure for acne.

There are rooms for one person, two or the communal area. It is worth going simply to admire this beautiful old building!

If you are not too relaxed to walk, enjoy a coffee or a drink at one of the cafe bars opposite when you leave.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12114 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11816
This fabulous Edwardian bathhouse, founded in 1912, has enormous porcelain baths with brass taps dispensing piped saltwater. Incredibly relaxing and very authentic, you'll come out cleaner and happier than you could imagine.

A must in the wonderful northwest - have an evening bath after a walk on the beach and a pint.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11816 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9926 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9926 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5074
Chemberlitash Hamam: a spacious Turkish bath - the changing room, if I recall, is a corridor, but the actual hamam is large and one can spread out and lie on the marble slab in peace. In the smaller baths, there is no room on the central marble slab and you have to sit around, sweating and waiting for your turn for massage instead of lying down and relaxing.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5074 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5014
Worth a visit anytime of the year. Were it not for corpulent 50-something Hungarians wearing nothing but Speedos, this could possibly be my favourite place in the whole world.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5014 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4983 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4983 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4937 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4937 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4901
Get a day ticket, and hang on to all pieces of paper you are given - if you leave after a couple of hours, they will refund some of the entrance fee. Ladies and gents' changing rooms are separate, one at each end of the entrance hall. You go downstairs and through a turnstile (not necessarily in that order). I can only speak for the ladies' but assume both are the same from here: an attendant will meet you and find you an empty locker. When you are changed, you put your stuff in the locker and call the attendant, who will lock it and give you a wristband. You have to remember the locker number.

Once you come out of the changing rooms into the courtyard, you will be reunited with your bathing companion - Szechenyi is not segregated, which is why I like it. You take your towel and your book and your glasses and whatever else out with you and leave them on a bench. If it looks like rain, make sure you have a plastic bag.

The two pools at each end of the courtyard are the best; the one on the left as you come out of the changing rooms is slightly cooler, so go in this one first, or it will feel really cold. The one on the right is warmer and old men play chess in it. You can also go inside through one of the creepy looking doorways in the walls, and there are more medicinal baths, steam rooms, and great big tubs of ice. I have no idea what those are for. Do explore; no-one will challenge you. Do be brave enough to go to the baths, it's quite an experience. You can get drinks and snacks inside, too.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4901 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4890 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4890 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4561
Our Dave, Nigel and I were sweaty and touristed-out and entered this splendid old hamman, which is located in the souk somewhere between the Omayyad Mosque and the Biblical Street Called Straight (any other directions are meaningless in the convolutions of a bazaar).

The old guy behind the desk takes your money, your wallet and locks them safely away. You're given three towels each and taken to a dry steam room. It's hot- nostrils are incinerated and then it's time for a scrub. It's all very homoerotic and Dave got weirded out by men gleefully lathering up their pals in an empty marble room. But what the hey-ho ... no one's taking pictures (I don't think).

Then you're led to a second large, empty marble room with a cloud of steam descending to about four feet off the floor. All you see are men's torsos - very stark and eerie. Here you swill off your lather (expertly- and rather tenderly I must add - applied by your mates) and get scrubbed by each other.

It's at this point that a baleful Damascus masseur points to one of us at a time and beckons us to his antechamber, where you are laid on the marble floor like a chunk of meat (Halal meat, I should point out) and you are twisted, pummelled and pulled. Then he motions you to lie on your stomach. Our Dave thought he was to enjoy forbidden pleasures at this point- he's old public school and taken with these fantasies- but Big Nigel expressed the view you were not in a strong position to argue with anyone at this point. Anyway, there were no shenanigans, but more pulling, twisting and deep muscle tweaking.

Then it was back to the steam room and a gentler massage and then a cold shower.

That took about 40 minutes and at every confusing turn of events, Damascene bathers or hamman workers were happy to help you along. It was all very matey. They seemed intrigued we were there - confused, European, pale. It was akin to someone slightly exotic coming into your local and you showing him just how to down a pint of Old Skunktongue.

After getting scrubbed clean through, we were jettisoned to a large open mezzanine where all the lads were bundled in towels, hanging out, drinking sweet tea, having a fag, taking pictures with their mobiles and probably talking about ... what else … footy.

Time rolls on, the hours are punctuated by prayers and more tea and the sound of the souk outside.

Women are allowed on Friday nights. The bazaar has some pretty lively restaurants for a good old nosh after bathtime and prices are about £3 or £4 pp for a blow out.

Damascus as a city is laid back. Folks leave you alone- probably because a good chunk of the population probably works for the secret services or the military.

But, really, who knows who anyone is in the hamman when your clothes are on a peg and you're getting all in a lather.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4561 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2717
The entry price is the only thing you will find in English, but it's no problem and ends up adding to the fun.

Don't be put off by the 20+ stone masseuses, stay your nerves and be sure to spend an hour there.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2717 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4908 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4908 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4631
Outside are two thermal pools and a swimming pool (swimming cap required). One of the thermal pools is great for kids - there’s a walled off circular section which uses pumps to get a current running. It’s like flowing downstream on a fast river, but you go round in a circle. Kids (and me) love it. Everything is mixed sex, so swimming suits are required.

The Rudás fürdő has been done up recently, it's the old Turkish baths on the Buda side of the Erzsébet híd (Elizabeth Bridge). I haven't been yet, but some people say it's the best in Budapest now.

Gellért is overrated. The swimming pool looks nice from the gallery, but is cold and you have to swim around the pool clockwise, very dull. Thermal pools are segregated, so you can go naked, or borrow a loincloth or wear a swimming suit. Quite nice, but not really suitable for a couple on their own.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4631