You have the opportunity to meet the Big DL when in Dharamasala if he is in residence. You have to apply a good bit in advance, in person to the Tibetan regional government's offices, you'll need your passport.

We did it six months in advance and kept bugging them by email. Bring your passport with you and one camera a group. There are also public meet and greetings, although these are rare. Just turn up and have your passport with you.

As well as this if you go in February or March- check when it's on as it moves - you can attend his month-long teachings in the main temple. If you are serious about your Tibetan Buddhism there are many opportunities to gain one-on-one teaching with monks and masters. Also the university runs introductory courses in Buddhist philosophy, Tibetan language, history and so on.

Main Temple

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Swayambhunath is a Buddhist stupa atop a hill in the Kathmandu valley. It's best to get there before sunrise - you'll be unlikely to meet any other tourists, just crowds of Nepali and Tibetan people. Swayambhu is a hive of activity at this time, with chanting, meditation and worship playing alongside the pre-school karate class, police training up those steep steps, earnest young men doing their exercises, the games of the monkeys and dogs.

It's a wonderful place at any time, but I think you see it at its best and most natural at sunrise. Beautiful light for photography too, if that's your thing. And there's a lovely view across the Kathmandu valley. If you fancy a walk, there's a lovely peaceful monastery at the top of the next hill along.

It's an easy walk from the centre, but you could also take a bus from Sohrakhutte, or find a taxi. Ask to be dropped at the bottom of the steps, rather than at the top. Then walk up to the stupa

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