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Moorea may win your heart. Her snaggle-tooth volcanic fangs rear from thundering Pacific surf; Arthur Frommer - of the self-named guides - says she is the most beautiful island in the world; and Marlon Brando fell for his Polynesian female lead when making Mutiny on the Bounty here (for a tryst with a twist take the yacht-trip to Tetiaroa atoll, once the Brandos’ private South Seas love-nest).
But Moorea has a love rival: one short ferry ride and suddenly you’re being seduced by Tahiti. See the Gaugin museum then go on to the small village of Mataiea where, beside the lagoon, English war poet Rupert Brooke spent some of the final weeks of a brief life with Mamua, his Polynesian lover. Here he wrote his most acclaimed poem. Called Tiare Tahiti, it was for her.
Camping Chez Nelson www.camping-nelson.pf
Google Maps: bit.ly/AvMP1Z
If you have a sweet tooth, then you need to visit this place.
Here you will find "three in one": the museum, cafe and shop.
In the museum you can see the marzipan figures of human height, castles and whole scenes, which are made of marzipan.
You can drink a cup of aromatic coffee with a marzipan cake in cafe.
And in the shop you will find a large variety of marzipan candies.
www.niederegger.de/
Breite Straße 89, 23552 Lübeck, Germany
+49 451/5301
Google map: bit.ly/AgX9IN
What better than Verona, the city of ill-fated lovers Romeo and Juliet? Arrive in the early morning sunshine via the sleeper train from Paris then breakfast with the locals on strong black coffee and pastries.
You can spend the day exploring this beautiful old city hand in hand taking the Adige river, Piazza del Herbe, the renaissance garden Giardino Giusti and, if you can brave the tourist hordes, Juliet’s balcony.
In the evening you can experience the joy that is opera under stars in a magnificent roman amphitheatre - Arena di Verona. Then round off the perfect romantic day by following the locals in the know to Bottega Del Vino for a glass of red wine with intimate old fashioned charm.
www.tourism.verona.it/_vti_g2_1.aspx
www.bottegavini.it
Vicolo Scudo di Francia, 3, 37121 Verona Province of Verona, Italy
+39 45 800 4535
Google map: bit.ly/Aa7e8i
Among the most beautiful Italian cities, Florence is a favoured location when it comes to romance. This Tuscan city is fairly small and its well-known attractions, such as the Duomo and the Ponte Vecchio, are within walking distances. Although it is a very touristic destination, there are countless quieter spots for a romantic proposal. Couples can enjoy a stroll or a picnic in the Boboli Gardens, or use the service of a “Renaiolo” for a boat trip on the River Arno. Climbing the hill to Piazzale Michelangelo rewards visitors with stunning views of the city and a few more steps take you to another Florentine treasure: San Miniato al Monte. Of course a romantic weekend in Florence would not be complete without the delicious food, wine and ice cream on offer.
www.visitflorence.com
Google map: bit.ly/whHfN8
One of my favourite places to visit – on weekends or a night after work – is the TIFF Bell
Lightbox, an avant-garde cultural centre and home to the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF). Opened in 2010, it houses a cinema complex, galleries, workshops, two restaurants, and a roof-top terrace.
With different events every day of the week, TIFF offers screenings, lectures, festivals, great food, special exhibits and, of course, great cinema. There are 5 public cinemas with insulated sound space and the first in North America to show 16 mm, 35 mm and 70 mm film in addition to digital movies.
I love brunching at LUMA restaurant. With attentive service and great food, this is the perfect spot for a small or large group. LUMA also has a great dinner and cocktail menu. The Canteen restaurant, located on the ground floor, is a great spot for more casual and quick dining.
My favourite films to watch are those offered by the Contemporary World Cinema programme, where you can see some of the best films from around the world, many of which are unlikely to be widely released.
Ever since its opening last year, the space has featured outstanding exhibits, from Tim Burton to Federico Fellini and now the Grace Kelly exhibit.
www.tiff.net
350 King Street West, Toronto, ON M5V 3X5
+1 416 968 3456
Google map: bit.ly/ycH4AC
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
Sleek accommodation on this laid-back, modern-art loving island, with views over the tranquil Sea of Japan, as well as of Kusama Yayoi's giant spotted pumpkin on the seashore. Desert island bliss and a change of pace guaranteed.
www.benesse-artsite.jp/en/benessehouse/
Gotanji, Naoshima, Kagawa 7613110 Japan
+81 (0)87 892 3223
Google map: bit.ly/AAfBjY
For a fun London experience, check out the late night adult-only openings of the London Science Museum on the last Wednesday of every month. With 'no kids between you and the big red button' you can refresh forgotten science knowledge by checking out the rocket show (where the presenter proves he can do adult as well as childish humour), doing a spot of speed-dating, and contemplating the properties of sound while boogieing away at the silent disco. Best of all, it's completely free.
www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/visitmuseum/events/events_for_adults/Lates.aspx
Exhibition Road, South Kensington, London SW7 2DD
+44(0)870 870 4868
Google map: bit.ly/AjDdSY
The European Parliament's new visitor centre finally provides a place to visit about the European institutions.
Upon entering the exhibition you are given a personal media guide which can be in any of the 23 EU languages. You then use this tool to unlock a huge range of different interactive elements throughout the exhibition. My favourite part of the centre however, was the 360° film which lasted about 10 minutes and immersed us in the Parliament action, while finding out about how it all works.
Definitely something to take visiting friends to see! It also has a gift shop and cafeteria, which is a nice place to spend your Sunday afternoon.
www.europarl.europa.eu/parlamentarium
Rue Wiertz 60/ Wiertzstraat 60, B-1047 Brussels
Belgium
+3222832222
Google map: bit.ly/xpX5JD
Keep little ones and teenagers intrigued on a shoestring budget with a day trip to the Natural History Museum. The impressive cathedral-like structure plays host to one of the largest natural history collections in the world.
The collection includes everything from microscopic slides to mammoth skeletons, a dinosaur gallery to Darwin’s work on natural selection and an enormous life-size model of a blue whale.
The National History Museum also offers special exhibitions, an outdoor ice skating rink (in winter) and a wildlife garden. Admission to the permanent collection is free.
www.nhm.ac.uk/
Cromwell Road London, United Kingdom SW7 5BD
+44(0)20 7942 5000
Google map: bit.ly/yAK0x7
Take refuge in Frederic’s shop, where you can revive flagging legs with a cup of rich hot chocolate. No instant stuff this; but basically just melted chocolate, including the speciality Fredericisime, with no sugar and just a little honey, that you might not like but will knock your socks off. Along with the large and imaginative chocolate selection there are hot chocolate spoons, chocolate spreads, and ice creams. I must try the “Belgian sunshine” - I like a chocolatier with a sense of humour!
www.frederic-blondeel.com/en/presentation/
Quai aux Briques/Baksteenkaai 24, 1000 Brussels
+32 2 502 21 31
Google map: bit.ly/x8SWpl
* Bec is our Been there local for Brussels. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/brussels-local-rebecca.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/Becinbrussels
Founded in 1919 in Brussels, since 1942 Mary has been the chocolate supplier to the Belgian royal family. There are only three shops in the country, and the brand has
shunned expansion and stuck to its retro-style packing, discreet service and pralines named after Princesses past and present. This is about class, but there is nothing to be concerned about on price! Chocolates are still made by hand by around ten employees in a former armaments factory.
A browse through the brochure reveals that chocolates should be kept between 15 and 18 degrees, avoiding rapid changes in temperature. “In truth, however, our chocolates seem to disappear rather quickly.” You bet they do.
www.marychoc.com/
Rue Royal/Konigsstraat 73, 1000 Brussels, Belgium
+32 2 217 45 00
Google map: bit.ly/zyRZ1L
* Bec is our Been there local for Brussels. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/brussels-local-rebecca.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/Becinbrussels
For those unfamiliar with Korean cuisine, ddeokbokki is a popular Korean snack of cylindrical rice cakes cooked in a spicy sauce. Traditionally street food - wonderful for warming up on a bitter Seoul night - there is one place you can visit in Seoul to try a real restaurant quality version; Ddeokbokki Town.
Located in Sindang-dong, Ddeokbokki Town is a long street with numerous restaurants dedicated to ddeokbokki. While most will provide you with a delicious meal, one restaurant is particularly worthy of a visit; the wonderfully named "I Love Sindang-dong." Dining at this restaurant is an easier affair than is typical for the foreigner in Korea, providing a full English language menu along with pictures of the individual dishes. You can choose from a variety of different options, including cheese-stuffed rice balls and the intimidatingly named "Tear Jerker." All the ingredients are brought out in a large pan to cook in front of you - each table having its own gas hob - so be ready to stir the mouth watering mix of rice cake, ramen, glass noodles, mushrooms, dumplings, 'odeng' (fish cake), egg, onions and more while it cooks. Then simply pick and choose which parts you like best, and tuck in!
A huge restaurant (the floor space was used by seven different restaurants up until 2002) "I Love Sindang-dong" gives you a fantastic chance to try some traditional Korean food well away from the more tourism-heavy areas of Seoul. There is often a wait for a table at weekends, though rarely longer than 5-10 minutes, and this really is a must-do for all visitors to the city.
www.ilovesindangdong.co.kr/ilove/index.htm
Simply leave Sindang station (lines 2 & 6) out of Exit 8, take the first left (just before the firestation), and walk straight for about 200 metres. There will be a large sign with Korean script marking the entrance right in front of you.
South Korea, Seoul, Jongno-gu, Jeokseon-dong, 29
+82 2-732-7300
Google map: bit.ly/zCsf8A
Recently I took my mother for a trip onto the London eye to celebrate her 75th Birthday. When purchasing our tickets, I was asked if I was her carer as she walks with a walking stick and I enquired why. They said that the carer goes on free so in essence it's a buy one get one free ticket. The London Eye was a wonderful experience and I would recommend it to anyone.
www.londoneye.com
Riverside Building, County Hall Westminster Bridge Road, London SE1 7PB
+44(0)870 990 8881
Google map: bit.ly/A9PFVh
Jane, a Londoner, was highly sceptical when I suggested this tour. We piled on clothes (it was November) so stayed warm enough to appreciate the birds’ eye view from the upper deck. Over several hours we learned an eclectic mix of history, celebrity, and the macabre: Trafalgar Square’s lions were cast from melted French cannons; a City company insures Tina Turner’s legs for £millions; Green Park was a swampy, medieval graveyard for lepers. You can hop on and off along any of the three routes and the ticket includes a river cruise and guided walks. Commentary is live on one route; on the others it’s taped, in seven languages, plus an extra-gruesome one (in English) for kids. The ticket, normally valid 24 hours, is extended to 48 in winter, so the next day I used it to get to the museums in Kensington, hearing about the humble origins of Harrods and Harvey Nichols along the way. Jane confessed that next time she has out of town visitors, she might do it again.
www.theoriginaltour.com; from £23 adult, £11 under 16s.
Visiting London we happened upon a free drop-in drawing session at the National Portrait Gallery. The welcoming tutor placed sheaf of cartridge paper and some pencils in our hands and we were away! A great hour's fun. Even my wife, who hates drawing, found it engaging and was proud of her finished efforts, which we still have.
www.npg.org.uk/
St Martin's Place, London WC2H 0HE
+44 (0) 20 7306 0055
Google map: bit.ly/wMtJSN
‘Festival’ doesn’t even come close to describing it. Like all big experiences, you can’t pin it down in words, you have to be there. In short, around 50,000 people from all over the world come together in the harsh Nevada desert to create a temporary city, known as Black Rock City, for week. There, they collectively and spontaneously create some of the most wild and colourful experiences you’ll encounter. And when they leave, there’ll be no sign they were ever there.
This is Burning Man, which describes itself as “an annual art event and temporary community based on radical self expression and self-reliance”. And radical it is! It’s also crazy, beautiful, safe, generous and buzzing with life, love and laughter. It’ll stretch you, for sure. But you’ll rise to it and surprise yourself. Trust me. You’ll experience (perhaps for the first time) the complete freedom to be and express yourself in whatever ways you feel like, whether that’s a squeak or a roar.
Given that freedom, and all the characters and creativity you’ll find at Burning Man, there could easily be a hundred life-changing possibilities a day. Dress up like Priscilla Queen of the Desert, or rip off all your clothes and paint yourself blue. Ride around under the stars on a giant neon spider. Climb up an intricately carved wooden temple and scrawl your deepest secrets on the walls, then watch the temple catch fire a few days later, taking your secrets with it forever. Jump on a pimped up bicycle and follow a troupe of fire dancers around, then ask them for a twirl. Or simply pluck up the courage to wander into a complete stranger’s camp and be welcomed with open arms for coffee and conversation. Then if you get tired, just take a seat on a huge red velvet sofa that just happens to be rolling past on wheels...
But for me, the most profoundly life-changing aspect of all was to discover what happens when you give people, en masse, pure unadulterated freedom. Far from anarchy or debauchery, what you actually get is something almost akin to an earthly paradise. Amazing!
There’s no crime, abuse, hassle or even any litter. Not a single cigarette butt or beer can is dropped during the event or left behind after it (following the philosophy of ‘leave no trace’). No money changes hands during the week, everything is freely given and received between friends and strangers. Nobody will push you into anything, leave you out of anything, look at you disapprovingly or give you cause to feel uncomfortable in any way. In fact I’m not sure I even saw anyone in a slightly bad mood, ever!
Somehow, in the absence of society’s usual rules and boundaries, what rises from the hot desert sands (apart from dust, which does get everywhere) is a quite beautiful marriage of liberation and personal responsibility, individuality and community, an outpouring of creative inspiration, expression, mutual support, pure joy and fun. And when you find yourself a part of that, something very, very unusual happens. You feel proud to be a member of the human race, which is a life-changing experience indeed! And you start to think hey, maybe we humans aren’t so bad after all, perhaps there’s hope for us yet. If we can do it in Black Rock City, why not the world? But even if we’re not quite ready to pull it off wholesale just yet, at least we still have Burning Man. Try it!
The Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons is a lot more fun that its name might suggest. It contains more that 3,500 specimens, mainly collected in the 18th century by John Hunter, the anatomist.
There is a vast array of pickled body parts, the skeleton of a 7’ 7” ‘Irish giant’, the tooth of an extinct giant sloth, and a slightly grisly display of pickled foetuses. More recent additions include Churchill’s dentures.
There is also the opportunity to try your hand at simulated keyhole surgery, and watch footage of brain surgery. Educational and fun at the same time!
www.rcseng.ac.uk/museums
35-43 Lincoln's Inn Fields, London, WC2A 3PE
+44 (0) 20 7405 3474
Google map: bit.ly/wEx9wO
A journey or destination takes on life-changing status when you suddenly feel that inexplicable frisson that stirs your soul. It can be something as simple as a smile, the quality of light, or a hand carved wooden bowl, that can make you see life from a new perspective.
The country that affects me that way above all others is Japan; a hypnotic mix of rigid convention and outlandish weirdness, and the home of Zen. Japan showed me how to appreciate beauty in a single moment or a simple object - the sweet hay smell of a tatami floor; a screen door sliding open to reveal the colours of the autumn trees; the sound of tea pouring.
The Japanese understand how beauty is most clearly seen in imperfection, and more importantly they understand the transience of nature - which is why cherry blossom is the perfect symbol of the Japanese soul.
The design shop within the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art in Prague 7 stocks stunning glassware, porcelain, jewelry, lighting, furniture and other work by a number of leading contemporary Czech designers.
This bright white, airy, almost clinical space is a refreshing change to some of the more traditional Czech gift stores in central Prague and is still a great place to pick up a souvenir. How about a stylish Czech made mechanical pencil by Versatil or a Merkur construction set?
There’s a lovely café with outside seating, where you can admire your purchases afterwards. Oh yes, and a world class museum of contemporary art is downstairs. Just in case.
www.dox.cz/en/
DOX, Centre for Contemporary Art
Poupětova 1, Praha 7, 170 000
+420 774 145 434
Nearest tram: Ortenovo náměstí (trams 5, 10, 12, 15, 54)
Nearest metro: Nádraží Holešovice
Google map: bit.ly/zcl7y7
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Hidden behind the imposing National Museum, the Historical Museum in Sarajevo is a deeply moving, eye opening and inspiring experience. Documenting the atrocities of the Bosnian war with a touchingly impartial pathos, the simple yet affecting exhibition stopped me in my tracks and the hours spent at the museum will stay with me. For someone born in 1990, the images, artefacts and written accounts of the conflict brought home the reality that these horrors occurred within my lifetime. When this is combined with the ubiquitous scars of war which cover the country, the humility and compassion of the Bosnian people in the aftermath of their recent tragic history is all the more striking. Among young people in the UK not enough is known about this conflict and I can think of no more essential starting point than the Historical Museum in Sarajevo.
www.muzej.ba/
Zmaja od Bosne 5, 71 000, Sarajevo
+387 33 226 098
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