Tower Records in Shibuya gleams like a beacon, calling out to music and book lovers across the city and its inhabitant nationalities. It has recently gone under construction, so that what was once a peaceful book haven on the seventh floor has become a cool, sophisticated book/coffee shop on the 2nd. There are spaces for you to sit and read, with chargers for your laptop or phone, wooden floors, the best foreign book selection I’ve yet to see, and music which makes you stop and say “I LOVE that track!” The coffee shop serves taco rice, cakes, make-your-own hamburger sets and is decked out in a comfy, earthy style.
www.tower.jp
apan, Tokyo, Shibuya, Jinnan, 1−22−14
+81 3 3496 3661
Google map: bit.ly/11odpBl
* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle
Go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday afternoon and prepare to feel as though you’ve warped into a land without inhibitions. Just a 2 minute walk away from Harajuku station, men of indistinguishable age gather in a circle, wearing leather jackets, leather trousers, leather everything, and rock out to old tunes for the astonished eyes of the onlooking public. At some points it seems as though they’ve all gathered randomly, but then suddenly one will take centre stage and perform a solo dance and it begins to seem like a rehearsed, if not well oiled, routine.
Google map: bit.ly/WYRCCA
* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle
Go down to Yoyogi park on a Sunday afternoon and prepare to feel as though you’ve warped into a land without inhibitions. Just a 2 minute walk away from Harajuku station, men of indistinguishable age gather in a circle, wearing leather jackets, leather trousers, leather everything, and rock out to old tunes for the astonished eyes of the onlooking public. At some points it seems as though they’ve all gathered randomly, but then suddenly one will take centre stage and perform a solo dance and it begins to seem like a rehearsed, if not well oiled, routine.
Google map: bit.ly/11r8B20
* Hollie is our Been there local for Tokyo. You can check out her profile here:
www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/tokyo-local-hollie-mantle.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/HollieMantle
The city of Nicopolis was built by Octavian (Emperor Augustus) to celebrate his victory over Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium which took place just off the coast.
Today the ruins are largely free of tourists and beautifully overgrown but curious visitors who follow the paths and agricultural roads around the sprawling archaeological site will discover the remains of a Roman odeion, a nymphaea, an amphitheatre, a stadium, the foundations of a villa, a necropolis, mosaics, and stretches of the original Roman walls.
On a nearby hillside the Monument of Augustus stood on the site of Octavian's war camp and originally showcased the spoils of battle including bronze rams cut from the bows of Antony and Cleopatra's ships.
The Archaeological Museum of Preveza tells the story of the ancient city and displays finds from the site. Visit first and you will have a better feel for the history. The admission ticket covers entry to the museum and the archaeological site.
www.preveza.gr/en/el/nikopoli
Preveza in Epirus, North West Greece is within reach of Parga and Lefkada by car.
Buses from Preveza bus station to Ioannina (or other local services) pass the museum and the archaeological site. Getting back to Preveza is difficult as buses are irregular and it's a good 30 mins walk.
Details of opening times and admission free days: odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh3530.jsp?obj_id=2575
Google map: bit.ly/1624kkj
Xanthos is a world heritage site on Turkey’s Lycian coast, easily accessible by car from Kalkan or Petara. The site dates back to the 5th century BC, and what makes it so distinctive are the pillar tombs, some with marble reliefs; the most distinctive is the so-called “Harpy Tomb” depicting sirens carrying off the souls of the dead. Typically, though, you will need to go to the British Museum to see the original. Other than the extensive site and well preserved remains – including an impressive amphitheatre - Xanthos is also famous for the two occasions when the inhabitants committed mass suicide in the face of Persian and then Roman invaders, so the site has some moving stories to tell.
Olympos is an ancient city, settled in 2BC and abandoned in the 15th century. Situated on Turkey's south west coast you can gain access by walking along the beach from Cirali Town and up past a little river into the site. The beauty of Olympos is that you can get right up to the ruins and touch them, and when we visited in September there were very few tourists around. A good portion of the city is still standing and other buildings are being repaired, though it feels like you might have just stumbled upon the ruins yourself. And once you have finished your time at Olympos a beautiful beach, where turtles nest during summer, awaits you.
On the south coast of Turkey, 90 km southwest of Antalya city.
Ancient pomegranate trees shade a rocky trail leading up to the Greek amphitheatre of Erythrae. Unlike the human maelstrom at sites like Ephesus, visitors here are few, even in summer. We felt free to test the acoustics. Nearby a sun-wizened old man was minding a hobbit-hole. In the dark interior, on a dusty floor, lay dusty fragments of mouldings and ceramics. Explaining (eventually) we were from England he smiled broadly then proudly spoke his two words of English: "Manchester United".
It's well worth stopping on the way there or back at one of the small roadside cafes on the coast road between Çeşme and Illdir. They have shaded terraces with spectacular views over the Aegean Sea and islands. Try an Akitma, thin Turkish crêpes, cooked to order and filled with Feta-type, crumbly fresh cheese. Wash it down with Ayran, a suprisingly delicious cold drink of yogurt mixed with water and salt.
Illdir, on the coast road about 1 hour north of Çeşme.
Tourist information office: Çeşme (fax 232-712 6653) - it's by the harbour at iskele Meydanı 6.
Google map: bit.ly/13aWLKm
Mystra: ‘The Despotate of Mystra’ as it was known in the 14th Century. The most complete, dramatically sited and atmospheric Byzantine city in Greece. With magnificent views into the valley below it huddles against a steep cliff at the foot of the Taiyetos mountain range in the south eastern Peloponnese. Narrow streets and alleys give access to medieval semi-ruined houses, palaces and churches, some of the latter having brilliant ‘fresco’s. We felt we had entered the Byzantine world.
Whichever route you take to Mystra you will experience great scenery as well as having the opportunity to visit classical sites.
Google map: bit.ly/YVjTaD
After the visits to myriad marble columns, temple remnants, and paved roads, the Kouros of Naxos are a refreshing change. The three Kouros are prostrate statues still lying where they were being chiselled from the local marble. Dating from 6th or 7th Century BC, these male forms are believed to be either the God Dionysus, or perhaps local heroes, destined to grace temples. They lie in the open countryside where skilled hands worked on the marble slabs until fatal flaws were revealed or the stone fractured. The statues were then discarded, unfinished, and irretrievable. These are sites of heroic failure and are touching and impressive reminders of the minor craftsmen behind the great antiquities. The best Kouros are at Apollon (10.3m long) and near the central town of Melanes. All are accessible by foot.
Getting there: local buses from Naxos port to Melanes or to Apollon. Kouros of Flerio, Kouros of Potamia are near Melanes and the largest is near Apollon.
Google map: bit.ly/10gGC28
While we were staying at the Peloponnese sea town of Natplio we went to see the amphitheatre at Epidavros, extraordinarily preserved and set against a stunning backdrop. We saw a performance of the Greek tragedy, Medea by Euripides along with thousands of others. The acoustics and atmosphere were truly memorable.
The town is located in the North Eastern Peloponnese and the best way to get there is by car which is a three hour drive from Athens via Corinth. Designated buses also run from Natplio.
Google map: bit.ly/13aIqOh
If you’re a sun-seeker who’s taken advantage of the cheap FlyThomasCook flights to Antalya, it’s well worth taking a day trip to the ancient Pisidian ruined city of Termessos. Bewilderingly under-visited, possibly due to the steep climb required to reach the site (located 1000m above sea level), you often get the impression you have the place to yourself. The amphitheatre is particularly impressive with spectacular views across the rolling Tauros mountain range. Leave Ephesus to the masses and take in this piece of history on your own terms.
It's a 30km drive north-west of Antalya.
Google map: bit.ly/ZZsPe8
Kingfishers overtake the little boats that chug past the Sultaniye mud baths and round a final bend of the Dalyan River in Turkey to reveal the 2,500 year old limestone rock tombs carved by the Lycians high up on sheer sandstone cliff walls. Our guide explained this was so the souls of the ancient kings of nearby Caunus, who were laid to rest here, could be wafted away by winged sirens. There are restaurants opposite, good to enjoy at night while the striking and extremely photogenic site is floodlit.
www.dalyanguide.co.uk/DalyanRock.html
Google map: bit.ly/15ptfMy
While on a primarily wildlife trip to the national parks of Assam, my wife and I decided to do a short tour of Majuli Island, and we are glad we did. The island, located in the middle of the mighty Brahmaputra River, is a place anyone visiting this region should go to. The island is the hotbed of an ancient culture which still flourishes in the form of Xatras (monasteries) where monks learn various historical forms of arts, dance, music, drama and philosophy. The island has a magical and ambient aura where one can participate in simple rural life and enjoy life at a very leisurely pace.
Our trip was organized by Greener Pastures.
www.majuli.info/
www.thegreenerpastures.com
Google map: bit.ly/15iTvZ0
My wife and I recently took a trip to Assam in India. We chose Greener Pastures as our tour organizer, and they really made a difference, ensuring that we got a taste of the local culture. They made us stay in local homes, gave us a local experienced guide who we wont forget, and we even got to eat some tasty ethic cuisine. As we visited three national parks, in all of them, we were given local naturalists who had great knowledge on the local flora and fauna. What makes me recommend this company is that they are a small team of youths and are very passionate to apply responsible tourism in their operations and bring about real sustainable development. Also, their expertise in the region is brilliant and there is no compromise on the service.
www.thegreenerpastures.com
H.S Road,Dibrugarh,, Assam, India.
(+91)9435 747471
Caños de Meca is one of several golden beaches spread along Spain’s Costa de le Luz, like a trail of forgotten breadcrumbs. We came across this beach when driving from our base 12km away, in the Moorish hill-top town of Vejer de la Fronterra, to the popular fishing town of Barbate. Wowed by the crescent-shaped stretch of sand laid out beneath us, we parked up our hire car (for free) in the nearby pine forest, La Brena, and wandered through the sleepy coastal town. We never made it to Barbate.
At Canos, the thick pines merge seamlessly into a backdrop of imposing cliffs, with alarmingly clear seas gushing below, begging to be explored. Previously popular on the hippy trail, and with quiet chilled out music playing from most nearby bars and restaurants, you might expect the beach to be drenched in dreadlock-donning travellers. But we only came across a handle of tourists during our time, mostly Spaniards fleeing the sweltering heat of nearby city, Cadiz.
In fact, in stark contrast to neighbouring Costa del Sol, this stretch of unyielding coastline has largely escaped the mass tourism scene so often associated with Spain. For bedraggled water babies with a penchant for adventure, Canos de Meca has surf; for the bucket and spade parade, it’s a safe haven of everything you’d expect from a picture-postcard shoreline. For those wanting a bit of history, you can also walk around the coast to Cape Trafalgar, the starting point for Admiral Nelson in the Battle of Trafalgar. And for those wanting a little relaxation, you’ll be joined by just the occasional sprinkle of bathers, not an army of sun-worshippers. Besides, with a constantly-strong salty wind whistling over the beach, it’s impossible to hear much else, apart from your own silence and the falcons soaring overhead.
During our one-week holiday, we spent hours being flipped in the waves, bobbing with the blue swell of the Atlantic. Sometimes, we played in the nearby rock pool, a magical spot constantly doused in gentle sunshine. And at the end of our day, we’d usually retire to La Jaima, one of a handful of Boho-style beach bars flanking the cliff-top, which entices beachgoers with the sizzling waft of its daily barbecue. Here, we sipped on cold beers and complimentary peanuts saltier than the seawater coating our skin, watching as a group of Spanish students played football beneath.
I recommend it because, although it's only in Spain, it feel as though it's a million miles away. A true, tropical-style, paradise.
Canos de Meca, Andalucia.
Turn off the main N40 road at Vejer de la Frontera and follow the narrow roads to the coast. You can also reach it by taking the minor road through the pine forest from Barbate.
www.playasdetrafalgar.com/
Google map: bit.ly/YkuZ9L
Olek is a Polish crochet artist (don't call her a "yarn bomber"!) who's crocheted the Wall Street bull statue and various other items around NYC. She hasn't had an NYC exhibition since getting arrested in London a few years ago. Now she's back and crocheting skeletons, household items, people, and more. Check out her funny, subversive, and very touchable exhibition "The End Is Far" at Jonathan LeVine Gallery in Chelsea's gallery district until March 23. If you go on the right day, you might see me!
www.jonathanlevinegallery.com
529 W 20th St #9, New York, NY, United States
+1 212 243 3822
Google map: bit.ly/167CfZT
* Amanda is our Been there local for New York. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/new-york-local-amanda-green.jsp and her own NYC blog here: www.noisiestpassenger.com/. She's also on Twitter: @amandagreen
Mambo Poa Tours is a new tour agency located on the South East Coast of Zanzibar. We heard a lot of discussion about Zanzibar becoming over touristy and over-charged, but we did not find this the case to be on the south east coast. Jambiani is a perfect base to stay, and the boys from Mambo Poa had some really interesting tours, beside the usual tours. We did a snorkelling trip, a day out in Stone Town (ask them about a combo of Spice tour, City Tour and Prison Island - it was a day full of fun!) and to a place in the south of the island with an abandoned hotel site (definitely something different.) You can tell that the boys know their island and they were nice and honest guys to hang out with.
In one of the early scenes in the film 'Once', Glen and Marketa are seen chatting over a cup of tea in the window of Simon's Place Coffee Shop on George's Street. Later they cross the street to Waltons music shop. The café is located within George's Street Arcade, one of Dublin's oldest indoor markets, dating back to 1894. Simon's Place attracts a bohemian mix of artists, students and musicians and is always at its busiest during lunchtime hours - it's not unusual for queues to spill out the door. The café prides itself on its freshly made soups and thickly cut ‘doorstep’ salad sandwiches - get here early if you plan to dine-in for a bite.
22, South Great George's Street, Dublin 2
+353 1 679 7821
Google map: bit.ly/XqR1Eb
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
No Dublin-based film would be complete without a shot of the capital's cultural quarter, Temple Bar. In the final few moments of the movie 'Once', Glen and Marketa take a walk through the sun-dappled cobbles. It's a bittersweet scene. On the one hand, they're celebrating the completion of their album but ultimately they know they will soon be going their separate ways. If you choose to stick around, you’ll easily while away an hour or so checking out the latest exhibition in the Gallery of Photography on Meeting House Square.
The Gallery, Booshop and Darkrooms are open Tuesday to Saturday 11am-6pm, Sundays 1-6pm.
Gallery of Photography, Meeting House Square, Temple Bar,
Dublin 2
+353 1 671 4654
Google map: bit.ly/YCR0hQ
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
Waltons music shop on South Great George's Street features in several key scenes in the film 'Once'. The most important of course is when Glen Hansard and Marketa Irglova sit down at one of the pianos and perform 'Falling Slowly' for the first time. Staff at Waltons regularly receive requests to allow fans of the film to recreate the famous scene.
Waltons was founded in the early 1920's and is a music school as well as a musical instrument shop. Although you may not be able to drag a piano all the way home, a tin whistle from Waltons makes for a quirky little musical souvenir.
www.newschool.ie/
69 South Great Georges St, Dublin 2
+353 (0)1 475 0661
Google map: bit.ly/XNX8BL
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com