Red Pif is a wine shop, wine bar and restaurant, tucked away in the crooked streets in Betlémská, in Prague Old Town. An urban feel establishment, Red Pif is quite modern in terms of Czech vinny bars (wine bars) and offers an interesting blend of Czech and French influences.
As well as a long and detailed wine list, Red Pif offers a daily food menu including varied meat and fish main courses as well as charcuterie plates for sharing.
Not the cheapest place to drink in Prague (many wines are around 60 czk for a small glass, and there is a corkage charge of 100 czk for drinking in-house), but certainly one of the most trendy. Book ahead – Red Pif only has about 10 tables for diners, and is deservedly busy throughout the week.
www.redpif.cz
Betlémská 267/9, 110 00 Praha-Staré Město, Czech Republic
+420 222 232 086
Nearest metro: Narodni Trida
Nearest tram: 17 or 18 (to Karlovy lázně)
Google map: bit.ly/KXPPBO
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
This café is a place of contrasts: a modern menu, hyper-technical coffee and trendy staff with media specs and funky haircuts are ‘off-set’ by sepia prints and old-world pictures and documents about the building in walnut frames. Floor-to-ceiling curtains and elegant arm chairs in the back room lend a luxurious, adult feel. It’s a splendid blend of the modern and historic, which given its location just under the Hunger Wall in the Lesser Quarter, is important.
The coffee at Café Lounge is really excellent, and available to take away. Unusually for Prague, the menu features a flat white (67 czk) - served in a glass tumbler, with a heart drawn into the foam and a delicate biscuit on the side. Other coffee offerings include vacuum press coffee (95/125 CZK for a tricky arrangement that involved what looked like a high-school chemistry kit) as well as the usual cappuccino and espressos. Coffees and teas are all served with a suduko game to attempt while you sip, which is a charming touch. Café Lounge also offers a very extensive food menu from breakfast through to snacks and main meals, as well as daily options.
Service is impressive. Knowledgeable, friendly but unintrusive. A great experience and well worth the visit for something a little smarter than usual.
www.cafe-lounge.cz
Plaská 615/8, 150 00 Prague 5
(+420) 257 404 020
Google map: bit.ly/HUJPuy
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
A rather surprising new, albeit temporary, addition to a previously bland building, the café on the ground floor of Veletrzni Palace seems more of a science laboratory than a traditional cafe. Large bowl-shaped test tubes and gargantuan funnels and filter papers combine to offer up fresh filter and siphon coffee brews. (From 70 czk for a filter coffee).
An incredibly modern cafe frequented by tourists and Prague hipsters - the perfect place to rest gallery-wearied feet.
Offers tea, coffee and a small range of sweet snacks.
Open throughout summer 2012.
www.ngprague.cz/en/5/sekce/veletrzni-palace/
Dukelských hrdinů 47, 170 00 Prague 7
Google map: bit.ly/HYoRvw
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
TEG (Timoure et Group) is a small Czech fashion chain created by Alexandra Pavalová and Ivana Šafránková, two of Prague’s most respected designers.
Their boutique offers everyday, wearable clothes for women with a sharp, sophisticated edge. As well as their dressier collection, their thin cotton T-shirts, offered in a rainbow of shades, are particular favourites - essential summer staples.
Well worth checking out if shopping centrally.
www.timoure.cz/teg/e-index.html
Kolkovne 909/6, Prague 1
Nearest metro: Staremesto
Google map: bit.ly/GPK9x9
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Prádelna Café has a laid-back, homely charm. Spending an hour or so there is like friend’s mum’s kitchen on a Saturday afternoon. Expect bare wooden tables, blue and white decor, dried lavender and massive windows facing the street.
Located 50m from Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station (on the green line), the “Laundry cafe“ is so named as the buidling previously functioned as a...laundry! Even today, the cafe retains that sort of friendly, clean efficiency you expect from a laundrette – the proporietor bakes cakes in the main room while taking orders and making cappucino. Prádelna offers a broad drinks menu and decent food options, including daily soups (from 38 CZK), pates (from 65 CZK), paninis (63 CZK) and homemade ice cream and desserts. Their fresh baked cakes come extremely highly recommended.
A great local business with friendly service.
pradelna-cafe.cz/onas.php
Slavíkova 21 , 120 00 Prague 2
+420 774 843 477
Google map: bit.ly/GIZtey
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
I was reading your article on wines in the Czech Republic and didn't see anything about Burcak, a young Moravian wine. I read about it in The God Complex, a new thriller novel set in Prague.
I visited Prague last fall and took the book and printed off a free self-guided tour from the book's website. I learned more interesting things about Prague from that book than the guided tour I paid for there. Things such as Burcak, where to find it, and that it's only served in the fall. Luckily, it was fall when I visited. I also found the pig's knee restaurant described in the book. The book had enough history/background of the sites listed in the tour to make it a good compliment/replacement for a local tour. Just as the tour says, it will turn your trip into an adventure. It's definitely worth packing for a weekend trip.
www.godcomplexnovel.com/
Google map: bit.ly/xHWjeu
The design shop within the DOX Centre for Contemporary Art in Prague 7 stocks stunning glassware, porcelain, jewelry, lighting, furniture and other work by a number of leading contemporary Czech designers.
This bright white, airy, almost clinical space is a refreshing change to some of the more traditional Czech gift stores in central Prague and is still a great place to pick up a souvenir. How about a stylish Czech made mechanical pencil by Versatil or a Merkur construction set?
There’s a lovely café with outside seating, where you can admire your purchases afterwards. Oh yes, and a world class museum of contemporary art is downstairs. Just in case.
www.dox.cz/en/
DOX, Centre for Contemporary Art
Poupětova 1, Praha 7, 170 000
+420 774 145 434
Nearest tram: Ortenovo náměstí (trams 5, 10, 12, 15, 54)
Nearest metro: Nádraží Holešovice
Google map: bit.ly/zcl7y7
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
A guesthouse and restaurant housed in an 18th century farmhouse, this is the most impressive restaurant I've been to in the Czech countryside. A stone's throw from Prague (less than a 30 minute drive from the centre), Penzion V Polich is set in the pretty village of Malé Čičovice, a mile from historical site of Okor.
Penzion V Polich is a wonderful place to finish a romp in the countryside with some hearty food in comfortable surroundings. The menu has a heavy Czech influence and offers a lot of game, but the tastes are more refined and adventurous than you will see on a typical Czech tourist menu. On my recent visit options included smoked duck breast, foie gras, pork belly, goose, fallow dear and rabbit, all cooked exceptionally well.
The staff speak relatively little English by Prague standards but are incredibly accommodating of non-Czech visitors and patient in translating as much as they can. The penzion is warm and cosy on a winter's afternoon, but also offers outside dining space for the summer months. Prices are very reasonable: three courses and two beers set us back around 600 czk per person, for some of the best food I have eaten in the Czech Republic. Be sure to book ahead.
A real treat.
www.penzionvpolich.cz
Malé Čičovice 26, 252 68 Malé Číčovice, Czech Republic
+420 733 680 728
Google map: bit.ly/vqjEFP
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Part café, part shop, part postcard museum. Choco Café is definitely one for all chocoholics.
Set in the Old Town, Choco Café offers the widest variety of chocolate and chocolate drinks I have ever seen. Its offerings include chocolate with quinoa or pineapple and hot chocolate served with ginger or chili.
Be prepared, the hot chocolate is pretty much just melted chocolate – rich, smooth and thick enough to stand a spoon in. 55 CZK for the standard. Whipped cream and other ingredients such as chili, fruit, and alcohol are extra.
Choco Café accommodates non-chocolate fanatics as well, offering a small non-chocolate menu including teas, and some food. A good central lunch stop.
Café Chocolate also operates as a postcard museum and shop and a chocolate shop. It sells some of the most beautifully presented chocolate bars you’ll ever see – mainly by Italian chocolate company Stainer. Each wrapper is a work of art in itself, and the chocolate is delicious.
Cosy and snug in the winter. The back opens onto a small garden for fresh air in the summer.
www.choco-cafe.cz/
Liliová 4/250, Praha 1, 110 00
+420222222519
Mon – Sat 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 10:00 – 20:00
Nearest metro: Staroměstská or Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/tTlXuf
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
For a break from the more obvious tourist souvenirs, or if you have underestimated the brutality of the Prague winter, pay a trip to Model Praha Klobouky off Wenceslas Square and buy yourself a hat.
This delightful shop, tucked away on an arcade leading off Wenceslas Square, seems to hark back to a time where nice young ladies donned hats and gloves each day before leaving the house. Perhaps this is due to its impressive stock of TONAK hats – world renowned felt hats of the highest quality. TONAK is a Czech manufacturer with a legacy stretching back to the mid-19th century, which is borne out in all of its creations.
Model Praha stocks top hats, fedoras, ladies headwear (suitable for weddings and the races) and a small selection of fur.
The ladies who work here are charmingly patient, and speak enough English for everyone to get by without too much difficulty.
A great place to invest in a little piece of Czech fashion history, starting at a very reasonable 450 czk.
www.modelpraha.cz/eng/
Václavské náměstí 28, Praha 1
Nearest metro: Mustek or Muzeum
Mon-Fri 09.00-19.00, Sat & Sun 10.00-17.00
Google map: bit.ly/vto0Vg
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
The name Čajovna Ve Věži (the tearoom in the tower) gives you a fairly big clue as to what to expect. A tea room right at the top of the remarkable tower at the edge of Letna park. The whole way up, you will be wondering if you have come to the right place. Don’t worry, you have. Just keep going right to the top.
As well as a special location, Čajovna Ve Věži's boasts a lovely herbal smell throughout and a cosy ambience - decor includes mismatched chairs and tables, Persian rugs, a large Buddha and several small oriental wall hangings. Like a favourite teddy bear, everything looks a little tired but well loved.
The menu is only available in Czech, although as most teas have Japanese or Chinese names, this is not too tricky. Staff speak some English but a phrase book might be useful.
Čajovna Ve Věži offers over 80 teas (from 40 to 115 CZK) from India, China, Japan, Turkey, Nepal, Vietnam and Tibet, as well as some fruit teas and non-caffeinated teas. A small selection of soft drinks is also available, as well as wine.
Light snacks are also offered – nuts (from 30 CZK), sandwiches (35 CZK), corn on the cob (44 CZK) and sushi (85 CZK).
Slightly slow service is more than compensated for by the location, atmosphere, and the excellent teas.
www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1/Korunovační, Prague 7
+420 724 593 215
Nearest tram: Sparta (trams 1, 5, 8, 25 or 26).
Open 16:00 - 22:00 in winter and 17:00 - 23:00 in the summer.
Google map: bit.ly/vbodTC
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Don't let the fact that Dobrá Čajovna is located on tourist-heavy Wenceslas Square dissuade you. Credited with being the lynchpin of the 1990s revival of Czech tea houses, Dobrá Čajovna is a refreshing change from some of the other international or tourist-priced options in the area. Tucked away off Wenceslas Square, it is hidden from view in a little courtyard, the entrance to which is marked by a discreet sign. It is a quiet, still haven, not drowned out by the hustle and bustle of Prague’s main street.
The menu (available in English and Czech) is fantastically informative and includes over eighty loose-leaf teas. With a three or four line description of each tea, the menu reads more like a novel and includes “a good tea to drink whilst reminiscing” (The Calling for Nepal), tea that is “suitable for drinking when returning from a walk in the park at twilight”, (Silver Monkey’s Paw), and tea “for a quiet meeting with close friends” (Sencha Kyoto). Dobrá Čajovna also has a small food menu offering snacks such as nuts and Japanese rice crackers. Savoury dishes including couscous and hummus are also available. Soft drinks are offered and are, happily, limited to exotic sounding chilled fruit juices – no crowd-pleasing Coca-Cola!
Dobrá Čajovna has inside seating as well as an outside area with bamboo sun umbrellas, low tables and stools, and is non-smoking throughout. Excellent service - attentive and very well informed.
Dobrá Čajovna also has a shop selling leaf teas, teapots and cups.
www.tea.cz/cajovna/
Václavské Náměstí 14, 11100 Prague 1
Open Mon-Fri 10:00 to 21:30, Sat-Sun 14:00 to 21:30
Nearest metro: Mustek
Google map: bit.ly/uKditw
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
MamaCoffee is a great example of the growing interest in Fair Trade in the Czech Republic. With five branches in Prague, MamaCoffee was the first Fair Trade coffee roaster in Central Europe and it is fair to say, remains one of the most popular.
Its largest café on Vodičkova off Wenceslas Square is always busy, its two stories frequented by locals, expats and tourists alike. Table service is offered by helpful staff who are will offer advice on their range of Ethiopian, Honduran and other coffee beans and Fair Trade Teas, which are all also available to buy. They are also happy to leave you to relax, or work on your laptop (offering free Wi-Fi upstairs).
MamaCoffee offers good quality snacks – cakes, brownies and sandwiches. I had the best spinach quiche of my life here, which was an unexpected perk.
Floor to ceiling windows and a non-smoking policy make this a lovely, bright place to relax or work, and offers high quality Fair Trade coffee at reasonable prices.
www.mamacoffee.cz/
Vodickova 6, Prague 1
Nearest metro: Mustek
Nearest Tram 3, 9, 14, 24 or 91 (to Vodickova)
Mon - Fri: 8:00 - 22:00, Sat - Sun: 10:00 - 22:00
Google map: bit.ly/vgIibU
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
For national Czech history don't go to the National Museum at the top of Wenceslas Square. The building is beautiful but the collection has just been shut for at least four years for extensive and long-overdue updating.
Instead, go to the National Museum site at the Vitkov Memorial in Zizkov. This site is home to one of the biggest equestrian statues in the world and a very interesting exhibition about 20th century Czech history.
A steep climb to the top is rewarded by a great view over the city, from the roof-top viewing platform or the very good café.
www.nm.cz/
U Památníku 1900, 130 00 Praha 3
+420 222 781 676
November 2011 untill March 2012:
Monday–Wednesday: CLOSED
Thursday–Sunday: 10 AM–6 PM
Google map: bit.ly/vukUJR
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
This cute café in Prague 2 has a range of attractions: newsagents (“trafika”), shop and tobacconists up front, with café behind, piano in the corner, occasional music events and small vinoteka.
Like a much-loved teddy bear, local favourite Dobra Trafika is a little worn around the edges, which makes local residents love it even more.
The menu includes several pages of teas and coffees, cakes and delicious stuffed pitta breads, at cheap-as-chips prices.
Delightfully scruffy, living-room-cosy and great value.
www.dobratrafika.cz
Korunní 42, 120 00 Praha 2
+420 737907635
Nearest metro: Jiriho z Podebrad
Cafe open Mon-Fri from 7.30, Sat from 8.00, Sun from 9.00, until 23.00 each day.
Google map: bit.ly/qG6G2d
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
One of my favourite restaurants in Prague and multiple gastronomic prize winner, Aromi will not disappoint. Although it boasts an impressive all round Italian menu, Aromi’s main draw is the outstanding selection of fresh fish available daily (no mean feat in a country that is landlocked). Their utterly charming, and incredibly knowledgeable staff bring huge platters of fish to each table (look away if you’re squeamish) and entice you with promises of grilled sea bass, plumptious snapper, huge turbot and fresh lobster.
An excellent wine selection and the best limoncello I’ve had outside Italy complete a fantastic meal.
Not a cheap option, but great for a splurge.
Book ahead – Aromi is deservedly popular throughout the week.
www.aromi.cz/en/home/
Mánesova 78, Praha 2
+420 222713222
Google map: bit.ly/mSmnKs
Nearest metro: Jiriho z Podebrad
Open Mon-Sat 12.00-23.00, Sun 12.00-22.00
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Upon entering Sudička, a subterranean restaurant in Prague 2, you’ll be glad you knew to come in and didn’t pass straight by. This warmly glowing, inviting gem of a place is almost entirely hidden from pavement level – some small windows around ankle level are all that give it away.
Sudička offers an intimate, cosy space for drinks or dinner, lit by candles and low lighting.
The menu is creative, with a range of excellent salads (my favourite is smoked salmon with strawberries), cheese specialties including raclette and fondue and heartier dishes to warm your cockles throughout winter. Sudička boasts an impressive wine list (including several by the glass) as well as a particularly wide range of teas.
Lovely staff and very reasonable prices complete the experience.
www.sudicka.cz/
Nitranská 1355/7, 130 00 Praha 3
+420 222 511 609
Opening houses described as Monday - Saturday from 3:33 pm to 11:33 pm (mostly even longer) , which seems to cover most bases for evening dining!
Sunday closed
Nearest Metro:
Nearest Tram: 10 or 16 (Vinohradska vodarna) or 11 (Jiriho z Podebrad)
Google map: bit.ly/qIEtxs
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Czech tea houses are a relatively recent development. Local legend claims that a good cuppa was unheard of in the Czech capital until 1848 when Russian anarchist Mikhail Bakunin requested tea in a Prague café and was met with blank faces.
Fast forward 150 years and the tea drinking, which took off at the end of the 19th century but subsided under the communist regime, has flourished once more. Prague boasts innumerate independent čajovny as well as one small tea chain, each with distinct character and appeal but all offering a wonderfully relaxed environment in which to while away a few hours.
Čajovny serve čaj in abundance – fresh loose teas from across the globe. Most offer extensive menus (around 60-80 tea varieties is a standard) and some offer hookah with flavored tobacco.
Čajovny are casual, hippified places, popular with Czech students, offering a relaxed, chilled-out vibe. A great antidote to an afternoon of sightseeing!
My favourites include:
Dobra Čajovny on Wenceslas Square – www.tea.cz/cajovna/
Nearest metro: Mustek or Muzeum
Tea in the Tower
www.dojo.cz/cajovna/rozvrh/index_eng.html
Na výšinách 1 / Korunovační Prague 7
Nearest Tram: Sparta (1,5,8, 25 or 26)
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
Fans of Vietnamese food may want to try Pho Vietnam in Prague 2. Located a stone’s throw from Jiriho z Podebrad metro station, this tiny restaurant offers a small outside seating area but mainly offers takeaway meals. Their menu includes some delicious pho (Vietnamese noodle soup, usually served with beef (pho bo) or chicken (pho ga)), which is absolutely packed with fresh spring onions and corrainder, for around 80 CZK.
Pho Vietnam also offers Vietnamese curry dishes with rice, and some sushi.
A basic restaurant but a great quick and healthy option for food in a hurry.
Slavikova 1, 120 00 Prague 2
+420 774 167 786
Nearest Metro: Jiřího z Poděbrad
Nearest Tram: Jiřího z Poděbrad (11), Vinohradska Vodarna (10 and 16)
Google map: bit.ly/oatzRk
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/
When you step into Café Louvre on Národní, it is as if you step back in time. Opened in 1902, Louvre has always ranked highly in Czech kavarna culture. For a time it was the meeting ground of philosophy groups whose members included Franz Kafka and Max Brod. Many key players in the European literary scene of the early twentieth century spent time here, including Czech the Čapek brothers and Otto Pick.
Although the café closed for several years under the communists, its interior underwent considerable reconstruction in the 1990s. Today visitors will still get a feel of the grandiose café scene that existed at the beginning of the last century, as they walk up the wide staircase with marble walls and an iron handrail. The main room of the café, overlooking Národní below, boasts high ceilings, large windows and huge mirrors, which makes this one of the most splendid locations to drink caj or kava in the whole of Prague.
Louvre does offer full savoury meals, including soups, salads and pancakes. However, the best reason for a visit is the magnificent coffee and cake menu. Their homemade cakes, strudels and waffles will satisfy even the sweetest tooth – the blueberry cake on linz dough with vanilla ice-cream (65 CZK) keeps me coming back again and again.
An impressive drinks menu makes Louvre a winter time favourite – hot chocolate with rum and whipped cream (59 CZK) will keep you warm when it’s cold outside.
For good quality coffee and dessert set in historic opulence, look no further.
www.cafelouvre.cz/
Národní 22, Praha 1, 110 00
+420 224 930 949
Nearest metro: Narodni Trida or Mustek
Nearest tram: Narodni Trida (6, 9, 18, 21, 22 or 91)
Mon-Friday: 08.00 to 23.30
Sat-Sun: 0900 to 23.30
Google map: bit.ly/mQerhN
* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/