Balkan restaurant with a delightfully wacky interior – yes, those are upside down chairs you can see hanging from the ceiling! There’s also a gorgeous garden which is open in summer if you really can't cope with the riot of colour on the walls but the real attraction here is the food. The grilled octopus was beautifully presented and tasted delicious which came as something as a shock given this is a landlocked country. Despite being popular with Czech celebs like Karel Gott (their answer to Cliff Richard) and Oscar winning screenwriter/director Zdenek Sverak, the prices are reasonable – and the welcome is as warm as you would expect in the Mediterranean. I deeply regret having strolled past this place, assuming it must be as a tourist haunt – don’t make my mistake!

lukalu.cz/
Újezd 33, Praha 1, Mala Strana
+420 257 212 388
Google map: bit.ly/17o6yw8

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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A skiing holiday in the Czech Republic needn’t break the bank. Rokytnice nad Jizerou is an excellent base if you’d like to hit the slopes and it’s easily accessible from Prague on public transport too (there are direct buses three times a day). Just because Easter’s almost here, don’t rule a winter sports jaunt out: there’s some snow on the peaks as late as May. There are two main resorts: the baby slopes of Studenov which can be reached on foot and for the more competent, Horni Domky which is served by a regular free Ski bus. A day’s pass for Studenov is 380CZK for adults (about £12) and 200CZK for children (about £7). The area is popular with Poles and Germans as well as Czechs so don’t expect the place to be overrun with Brits although there are plenty of English speaking instructors. As for food, if you can’t the Czech fried fare on offer in the stands and restaurants by the slopes then try the soups instead. There’s česnekova – a very garlicky broth bound to keep the vampires away – or porkova, a creamy leek concoction. Remember to ask for bread as it isn’t served automatically. A glass of švarak (mulled wine) or medovina (mead) is a great après ski pick me up too. We stayed at Pension Samohel, which is run by a former Czech ski champion: very friendly, good location, great food but take your own towels – the ones provided were tiny and had seen better days.

www.rokytnice.com/
www.pension-samohel.cz/cs/
Rokytnice nad Jizerou 153, 512 44 Rokytnice nad Jizerou, Czech Republic
+420 604 200 934
Google map: bit.ly/YP8LZH

* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague

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This church may be less well known than many in Prague, but inside it reveals the story of an act of great heroism from the days of World War II. Two Czech partisans, Jan Kubis and Jozef Gabcik, had assassinated the hated deputy Reich- Protector of occupied Bohemia and Moravia, Reinhard Heydrich. They were hiding out in the crypt along with five of their comrades when they were betrayed to the Gestapo by one of their own. There followed a three hour siege, during which 800 members of the SS and Gestapo were held at bay, until Kubis and Gabcik took their own lives. The crypt today is a compelling place to visit, with a strong sense of the events that unfolded there many years ago. There is a small museum and shop, and a film made by the Nazis with dramatic footage of Hitler attending the state funeral of Heydrich. At street level you can see the air vent with the surrounding stonework still scarred by the bullets that were fired at it in an attempt to dislodge the Czech partisans. It is also possible to follow the story to its final dreadful conclusion by visiting the village of Lidice, outside Prague – shortly after the assassination the anticipated reprisal took place there, the men shot, women and children deported to concentration camps and the village dynamited.

www.pravoslavnacirkev.cz
Resslova 9a, 120 00 Praha 2, Czech Republic
+420 224 920 686
Google map: bit.ly/Z2hECq

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Petrin Tower is a great experience if you don't mind heights and steps. If walking up 299 steps fills you with horror you can take the funicular railway to the top. The views at the top will take your breath away, the whole of Prague city in every direction, your reward.

www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz/
Petřínské sady, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
+420 724 911 497
Google map: bit.ly/W11ZVQ

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We did a house swap to Bernartice in Southern Bohemia. The roads are fantastic for cycling and our hosts had left us two good bikes. We set off cycling to Zvikov (round trip 20 miles), unsure of what we would find at journey's end. We were stunned by the beauty of Zvitov, set as it is at the confluence of the Vlatava and the Otava, a magnificent gorge and has a beautiful 15th century castle. You can do boat trips from the little jetty. Very understated.

Google map: bit.ly/ZcGwX9

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You might think the Art Deco Imperial Hotel is too posh for you and your kind but think again. I visited it after a hard day's work wearing shabby clothes and the staff didn't bat an eyelid (such a lack of snobbishness that is typical of all Czech people that I've encountered.) On the ground floor it has a beautiful cafe/bar decorated with Art Nouveau mosaics. Treat yourself to a cocktail and enjoy the splendour of your surroundings.

www.hotel-imperial.cz/
Na Poříči 15
Praha 1, PSČ: 110 00
+420 246 011 600
Google map: bit.ly/Y1eejz

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Buy a Prague one day travel pass and rumble along on a number 22 tram from the National Theatre across the River Voltava. Then let the quaint funicular railway take the strain up Petrin Hill. Built in 1893 the Petrin Observation Tower is an Eiffel lookalike and sways slightly in the wind. You can go up by lift or climb the 299 wooden stairs on the outside to the viewing platform with its superb panorama over Prague. Stroll back to the city down through gardens and apple orchards. Two hours, all in, for a fiver.

www.petrinska-rozhledna.cz/
Petřínské sady, 110 00 Praha 1, Czech Republic
+420 724 911 497
Google map: bit.ly/W11ZVQ

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An area of 17 sq miles, in north eastern Bohemia, approx 100 miles northeast of Prague.
This national park is made up of sandstone that has been eroded over the years into fantastic shaped rock formations.
A marked pathway, taking about three hours to walk, takes you past, and through, the formations, with names such as the Caterpillar, Butchers Axe, the Dog and Boar, the Sphinx and the Golem. You should also not miss the exciting climb up a set of ladders to the ruins of Strmen Castle, now a viewing platform.

Google map: bit.ly/VDHfUb

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The Sedlec Ossuary (The church of bones) is at Kutna Hora, 50 miles to the east of Prague. It is reputed to contain the skeletons of between 40,000 and 70,000 bodies.
In many cases, these skeletons have been artistically arranged to form decorations and furnishings for the chapel.
Four enormous bell-shaped mounds occupy the corners of the chapel, and an enormous chandelier of bones, which contains at least one of every bone in the human body, hangs from the centre of the nave.

www.kostnice.cz/
Zámecká, 284 03 Kutná Hora-Sedlec Czech Republic
+420 326 551 049
Google map: bit.ly/YDgQ43

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The "cultural hall" tour takes you around areas you would only see if you went to a number of concerts - there's some stunning art and architecture plus an interesting history.

www.obecnidum.cz/
náměstí Republiky 1090/5, 110 00 Praha 1-Staré Město, Czech Republic
+420 222 002 780
Google map: bit.ly/YDhjDf

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The Augustinian Monastery at Brno is where Gregor Mendel worked with peas and bees to unravel the hereditary principles. His painstaking efforts are displayed here and, although he predated Darwin, his work was not recognised until the early 20th century.

www.mendelmuseum.muni.cz/en/
Opatství Staré Brno Řádu sv. Augustina
Mendlovo náměstí 1a, 603 00 Brno
+420 543 424 043
Google map: bit.ly/Vq7gUv

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Fifteen years ago, Czech friends advised us to visit this small medieval town, then untouched by communism or tourism, and situated in a curl of the Vltava river. The rose-brown castle appears above ancient buildings and includes a baroque theatre (retaining much of its original scenery and wardrobe)and a terraced garden with a new revolving outdoor theatre with summer performances.
We were both struck by the ancient atmosphere of this town, and returned to make sure it was all real.

www.ckrumlov.info
Google map: bit.ly/12XMsYZ

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Mucha painted 20 huge canvases, inspired by the Czechoslovak and other Slav nations and with his trademark Art-Nouveau style. Monumental and stunning, with an excellent interpretive leaflet, see it while you can as they are destined for a permanent home, when Prague can agree where, and how to fund it.

www.ngprague.cz
Dukelských hrdinů 530/47, 170 00 Praha 7-Holešovice, Czech Republic
+420 224 301 122
Google map: bit.ly/WRdxtw

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Providing a more relaxed aspect of the Czech Republic after a few busy days in Prague, Cesky Krumlov is a refreshing getaway three to five hours south of the capital by bus and definitely not to be missed.
Follow the Vltava river 180kms south from Prague upstream into the gentle foothills of the Bohemian Forest towards the German border and find yet another truely exceptional Unesco World Heritage site. Cesky Krumlov is set in a tight loop of the Vltava, and dominated by an imposing castle built on sheer rock which gives stunning views over the medieval houses and narrow streets. The castle has a bear pit (complete with bears) and an historic theatre where original costumes are still worn for performances. The music festival in July and August attracts international performers; a modern art gallery exhibits works including those by Gerald Scarf, an intriguing photographic museum with images including Hitler's visit to the town during the war; these attractions are all discounted with a Cesky Krumlov card available from the tourist office. Well informed, multilingual town guides are very helpful and not expensive to hire for two or three hours. Despite some smart and expensive hotels (Hotel Ruze at the top of the town was configured from an ancient monastery), there are cheaper hotels and charming B&B's both within and outside the historic centre.
Families will love the canoeing on the winding river through gorges and the town itself but beware the diversions and salmon runs in the town which provide a bit of excitement to the unwary! And there are beautiful and undemanding walks in the gentle surrounding countryside and forest.

www.ckrumlov.info
Google map: bit.ly/12XMsYZ

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I so often hear people say "Oh, I've been to Prague", but Brno (the second city)is a terrific alternative. Cheaper, for one thing, easier to get in to, out of and around in general, and without a McDonalds or Starbucks sign on every post. Countless bars serve excellent and much cheaper food and beer, the views from Spilberk (the old fortress) and the Cathedral are excellent, and the city can be easily negotiated on foot, unless you fancy the tram system, which extends over most of it. And if you still fancy the capital, it's only a couple of hours by train.

Google map: bit.ly/UxcoqL

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The Czech Repulbic is just about the best in Europe for a self-planned walking trip. There is an amazing network of well-marked colour-coded footpaths across most of the country. Outside almost any railway station (and there are often railway stations in the smallest of villages) you'll find a sign indicating a variety of walking routes, with distances and likely times. And the routes, over hills and through forests and meadows, past castles and manor houses, up mountains and into old villages and towns, can be fantastic. Good walking maps (I found four different publishers) are widely available for much of the country at reasonable prices. And at the end of the day it's always been my experience that it was possible to find a guest house or cheap hotel in the village and a hearty dinner washed down with lots of pilsner beer.

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Prague has a surfeit of beer gardens set in various parks around the city, where small shacks sell cheap beer and wine to a laid-back crowd. One of the nicest and most romantic is in Letenské sade; with fantastic views over the city and often at least one person strumming a guitar there's no better place to enjoy a summer's afternoon. There is also an acclaimed restaurant housed in an impressive Neo-Renaissance château in the park should you feel like treating yourselves.

Nábřeží Edvarda Beneše, 170 00 Praha 7, Czech Republic
+420 221 714 444
Google map: bit.ly/Z9BkmX

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The castle is UNESCO heritage listed and its baroque 140 seat theatre is only one of five in the world. The town (pop.c 10,000) is full of fascinating renaissance and baroque buildings and due to the old brewery being the birth place of composer Smetana, there is a strong musical tradition in the town. The monastery gardens and its highly individual sculptures with subtle background music are a further attraction as is the very good and cheap beer and food. The stylish Hotel Aplaus offers double rooms from 2,600czk. To cool off, a visit to the old fashioned outdoor lido is a must.

Google map: bit.ly/XI7sew

www.hotelaplaus.cz
Šantovo náměstí 181, 570 01 Litomyšl, Czech Republic
Google map: bit.ly/XlLkJy

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This is an excellent, authentic Czech bar/restaurant, out of the city centre, but not so far. You can eat your fill for a very modest outlay.

www.zlatyklas.cz
Plzeňská 609/9, 150 00 Praha 5-Smíchov, Czech Republic
+420 251 562 539
Google map: bit.ly/12AIg1j

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Less than 100 miles apart, these South Moravian towns are linked by good cycling routes, vineyards around the River Morava, the heady smell of flowering lime trees, buildings of Baroque splendour, palaces and gardens, and market square cafes. In Kromeriz the highlight was Radnice restaurant serving a degustation menu with samples of local wine. In Mikulov, the Hotel Templ provided a comfortable room and excellent food, and was a good base for a day’s circular cycle route exploring the former Liechtenstein palaces of Valtice and Lednice, and the former Jewish area of Mikulov itself.

Radnici restaurace, Kovarska 20, Kromeriz
Google map: bit.ly/150TB9g

Hotel Templ:
www.templ.cz
Husova 50, 692 01 Mikulov
+420 519 323 095
Google map: bit.ly/WF75UJ

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