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The Hotel Riyad Al Moussika, where I spent with friends a long weekend at the beginning of our journey to the south of Morocco in early January, is a place that has stopped time, where the magical atmosphere, relives Morocco of Pasha of 1800, but with all the comfort of our century. Everything is perfect, authentic, calm, serene.
I recommend strongly this hotel for its central location, even for the excellent and very professional service provided by the young boys of the staff, always smiling and present without being intrusive.
The chef and owner, Khalid, a nice and helpful big boy, who speaks I do not know how many languages, but among them an excellent Italian that has enabled me to know a world of things about authentic Marrakech, thing impossible otherwise, due to my language limitations, and, most important, who cooks in divine way.
I conclude that the value for money is very good considering that the copious breakfast and the courses haute cuisine lunch, (by far the best of all restaurants in Marrakech and Morocco, where we ate), are included in rate.
Only one regret: Have stayed there for four nights only!
www.riyad-al-moussika.com
Riyad Al Moussika s.a.r.l.
62,derb Boutouil - Kennaria
Marrakech - Morocco
contact@riyad-al-moussika.ma
Phone 00212 (0) 24 389067
Fax: 00212 (0) 24 377653
At the end of a tiny dead end lane in the very heart of the Medina, and looking distinctly unpromising with its collapsing and propped up buildings, is this painstakingly restored small and fabulous riad. With just three rooms available, the owners have lovingly brought every historic piece of timber, plaster and zelij tiling back to its original best. The house is intimate and beautifully furnished with an eclectic and stylish mix of period and contemporary pieces, bird cages, and fabrics including objects from Vietnam, Europe and elsewhere. the terrace looks out over the Medina and hills and is ideal to relax. The home made breakfast preserves, pancakes, juices and range of teas are the passion of the owners, as is the cooking if you have dinner in. The staff and Stephen and Bruno are helpful in the extreme, and will give you lots of honest advice on surviving and enjoying Fes. Rooms E100 to E200 with taxis to airport and that fantastic breakfast.
9 Djerb Lamsside, Souiket Ben Safi, Fes Medina
www.riad9.com/
It pains me to reveal this secret spot but then it is on Main Street in Breckenridge so perhaps it's not that secret. Daylight Donuts is a fantastic place to go for breakfast before hitting the slopes. You can choose from a series of set platters - pancakes, bacon and hash browns or tortillas or sweeter options - plus endless coffee and some of the best donuts you'll ever munch. Good place to meet locals too and not expensive even taking the crashing exchange rate into account.
305 North Main Street, Breckenridge
Not as celebrated, as big or as central as San Francisco's Chinatown, Japan Town is still definitely one of the coolest places to visit in one of the world's coolest cities. Strung either side of Post St for a few blocks between Pacific Heights and the Fillmore, on the outside it is a largely unattractive, concrete-clad, easy to miss place, save for a few Japanese plants and the Japan Centre tower. However, enter the subterranean mall and you are transported into a kitsch Japanese fantasy world. Alongside numerous sushi houses and other restaurants (many of which do charge more than the city's huge range of other fantastic Japanese eateries) are supermarkets, gift shops, art and design stores, bookshops. All with a unique, quirky, Japanese flair (one stationery shop had a hilarious line of animal-innuendo notebooks). The kitsch pastiche decor only adds to the whole charm of the place, and despite it being obviously tourist-orientated, Japan Town remains fun and not overrun, perhaps by nature of its location. Definitely remember to sample some of the bobo drinks, they're one of the cheapest things there, and fantastic.
Post St, San Francisco, CA. Civic Center BART is maybe 20 minutes walk, or the 2, 3 and 4 muni buses run a block up on Sutter to downtown.
In desperate need of a break from the credit crunch doom and winter gloom and conscious of our pledge to pull in our purse strings, with a little organizing and shrewd spending we had a fabulous time in Le Marche, Italy.
We saved loads by booking a weekday flight with Ryan Air to Ancona and heading into the beautiful province of Macerata, just outside the beautiful Sibillini National Park.
To keep costs down we stayed at some excellent self catering apartments that cost under £20pp a night, and shopped locally for food. Prices for some items in the supermarkets are no cheaper than the UK, but if you shop ‘Italian’; wine, parmesan, mascarpone and bread, you get good value and good quality. The weekly markets in most towns are full of fresh, seasonal produce for creating a fantastic meal. If you want cheaper wine, buy it direct from the local cantinas. We found one in Tolentino called Il Pollenza where we bought some lovely Rosso Piceno for €1.40 per litre.
We like to go walking, and this place was ideal for short walks around town or longer, more challenging hiking in the mountains. The owners of the villa where we were staying had walking itineraries and maps we could use. We stayed in the lower snow free foothills as higher up the local ski resort was in full swing, and although we didn’t ski, at our holiday villa they had a few skis and a sledge available for guests.
One thing we did cotton on to was the fabulous bar snacks that are free if you turn up to the bar just before midday and have a small glass of Verdicchio or an aperitivo with the locals. If you drink what the locals are drinking you can save on your bar bill (beers in Italy are not cheap).
We did splash out a couple of nights on dinner. There were plenty of local places to choose from. We had the best pizza ever for €5 and another night we went to a great osteria "Scherzi parte" that served up regional Marche dishes. As we had had our free ‘starter’ at the bar before hand we skipped antipasti and had a two plates of pasta between us, which was just right, and then tucked in to the tasty grilled meats and salad. We drank the house wine at €5 per litre and finished off with a light, creamy, home made pannacotta. The bill was just over €60 for four.
www.villasanraffaello.com
Ancona airport
Amazing vegetarian food. It's buffet style and you pay by weight. Not the cheapest place but the best, most delicious, and filling food that we have eaten on our whole trip. Right near the big three art museums. Highly recommended. 100grams of deliciousness for 2euros.
Viva la Vida
c/ Huertas 57
Madrid isn't necessarily the cheapest city in the world in which to eat out, and if you're on a budget, and fancy hitting the town too but don't know how you can afford to do both, this is the answer: do as the Spanish do and drink and snack all evening in the multitudes of Tapas Bars throughout the city. Placa Santa Ana is one of the liveliest and most celebrated places in which to do this, though prices can be higher than in more up and coming districts such as Chueca or Lavapies - though both these areas have a wide range of trendy places serving quality food and drinks. Avoid the Placa Mayor and its immediate environs as you pay vastly inflated prices which don't equate to value for money. If you're not sure which bar to choose, just check out the menus and prices, ask one of the (usually friendly and helpful) locals or as a rule of thumb head for somewhere that looks busy. Not only are you eating and drinking for far less than a restaurant or cocktail bar, you are getting a real taste of what Madrid life is all about. Enjoy!
Across central Madrid
It is genuine Morroccan cuisine. Newly opened and authentic. Meat , fish, or vegetarian options.
Very extensive menu and open all day, as there is a cafe as well.
Argana
Cowbridge Road,
Canton, Cardiff
Edinburgh isn't exactly a city that hides its charms: a castle bang in the centre of town atop dramatic cliffs, a gothic skyline, a cobbled old town crammed full of tourist shops, a Georgian 'New Town' of refined restaurants and leafy squares, and several celebrated museums and galleries.
However, if you tire of tourists and want to seek real, everyday Edinburgh, consider a trip to the district just south-west of the city centre. Tollcross isn't what you would call beautiful, but is home to some of the city's finest ethnic restaurants (such as Number 1 Sushi and Lai Thai), as well as the King's Theatre and the Cameo Cinema. One of the finest arthouse cinemas in the country, the Cameo is both atmospheric and cheap, and with several screens offers something for every discerning cinema goer, as well as a much loved bar seeping with old-world atmosphere. The Beckett Pub nearby is similarly atmospheric, and neighbourhood newcomer, Cuckoo's Nest offers some of the cities best value for money drinks (particularly the cocktails).
Heading up the hill, you reach the Bruntsfield Links on your left, and beyond spectacular views across the Meadows to the Castle, Old Town and Arthur's Seat. Bruntsfield itself is one of the city's loveliest districts, a pleasing mixture of vibrant student district and upscale residential neighbourhood. Its main drag is home to several quality restaurants and bars, as well as a handful of intriguing shops, especially for foodies.
Coco's is arguably Edinburgh's best chocolatier, and sits near to a branch of Peckham's delicatessen and an extravagant cake shop. For those who wish to continue, the main road heads down into extremely well-heeled Morningside (though the shopping strip is perhaps a little underwhelming), and neighbouring the Grange and Merchiston, all of which are home to some beautiful Victorian villas on their leafy streets, and are a pleasure to stroll around.
Tollcross is at the southern end of Lothian Road, a ten-fifteen minute walk from all parts of central Edinburgh. The main road, Gilmore Place-Bruntsfield Place leads up the hill to Bruntsfield and then round towards Morningside. Multiple buses to all of these neighbourhoods, see Lothian Buses website.
"I've been to legendary L.A. sushi restaurant] Geisha House, and this is better," my friend told me as we entered the unassuming Gugu Sushi in L.A.'s South Bay. I haven't been to Geisha House, but I find it hard to imagine the possibility of better sushi, except perhaps in Japan.
Gug Sushi isn't a place you come to flash the cash (unlike much of L.A.) or even for the atmosphere: its sole raison d'etre is the fantastic food. The menu offers a bewildering variety of different roll combinations, so it was only fair that we tasted quite a few. The names of most now escape me, though all were delectable, however, the eponymous Gugu roll and one which prominently featured unagi (eel) stick in my mind.
It may be a bit of a trek from the more popular tourist areas of the city, but for sushi fans it is definitely worth it, and the prices are extremely reasonable.
Gu Gu Sushi & Roll, 1121 Aviation Boulevard, Hermosa Beach, Los Angeles CA 90254
Brasov is a good base for accomodation, offering more than 200 places for budget level, a good nightlife special on weekends and good restaurants with affordable prices. A beer is 1 pound, a meal is less than 10 pounds, accomodation 10 pounds a night a person, a ski day 20 pounds, including equipment rental and lift passes.
Brasov, Romania
Brasov is a good base for accomodation, offering more than 200 places for budget level, a good nightlife special on weekends and good restaurants with affordable prices. A beer is 1 pound, a meal is less than 10 pounds, accomodation 10 pounds a night a person, a ski day 20 pounds, including equipment rental and lift passes.
GARLICIA TRAVEL AGENCY, Brasov, Romania
E:office.garlicia@yahoo.com
M: 004(0)-0722.542.581
Located in central Hoi An, you will find this chilled little restaurant serving tasty, modern Vietnamese/Asian food and, if you are in the mood, excellent cocktails. Grab yourself a spot on the raised tatami 'flooring' with a table in the middle and enjoy excellent views of the lantern-lit river at night. Superb service.
111 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Hoi An.
www.mangorooms.com
This is "real" Alexandria and a real treat too. Unlike the Khan in Cairo, tourists don't get hassled to buy stuff here. As it is not touristy you'd better bring a phrase book if you are looking for something specific, otherwise just enjoy wandering around the streets.
The Eastern end starts with clothes and material (some lovely scarves here), then there are a few streets with spices (far, far cheaper than Cairo!) and then the fresh fish, fruit and vegetables take over.
Best buys are loofas, dried Hibiscus, dates and Halva.
It's relatively easy to find your way home as well; as turning off the main street will take you to the Corniche and a taxi will never be too far away.
Walk inland from the Unknown Soldier memorial on the Corniche (Midan Orabi) until you hit the main crossroads (Midan el-Tahrir). Go right here and you'll gradually walk deeper and deeper into the market. It runs parallel to the Corniche between here and El-Anfushi area, just a few blocks in from the bay.
For such an urban country, Japan's many mountain ranges remain unspoilt and relatively unknown other than to numerous enthusiastic and fit Japanese walkers of all ages. The North Alps are as good as the European ones and once away from the busy valley entrance lodges, exhilaratingly empty, and stunningly scenic. A network of dozens of simple traditional mountain huts provide ridge-top overnight accommodation in dormitories which are decidedly cosy for taller people and a welcome evening meal of meat, fresh vegetables, rice, and mizo soup. Enormous bento box lunches see you through the days. With snow on the peaks much of the year, the summer season is quite short but the ridges are covered with alpine flowers, miniature love lies bleeding, stunted birch, pine and rhodedendron woods, and marmots. Autumn colours come early. Numerous trails are signed and there are plenty of routes for a few days to a couple of weeks. The Kamikochi Valley is a good place to start with afew hours walk up to many peaks at around 3000m. Booking accomodation which in summer is necessary will be easier if you speak Japanese or have a friend who does. Water is scarce high up, so treat yourself in a hotel with onsen baths when you descend.
Central North Honshu, a half days drive north of Kanazawa.
www.kamikochi.or.jp/english/
Unassumingly tucked behind its traditional street wall, this beautiful historic ryokan in the heart of Kyoto offers calm and seclusion with exquisite personal service. A younger and much cheaper relative of the famous Hiiragiya frequented by Charlie Chaplin and Elizabeth Taylor, the Bekkan welcomes you to airy wooden rooms with floor to ceiling sliding glazed screens and bamboo shutters overlooking the small ornate gardens. Green tea and red bean pastries are ceremoniously taken on arrival, followed by donning yukata for an appointment in the private onsen baths before a 12 course dinner is served on tatami mats in your room. Finally your futon bed is unrolled and the staff glide backwards out of the room for a peaceful night in this vibrant city of opposites. In the morning breakfast arrives and the futons disappear while you are in the bathroom. Around 20000 yen with meals, and worth more.
Close to City Hall and Teramachi shops. Within walking distance or a bus most of the hundreds of places to visit. www.hiiragiya.com/index-e.html
Betty's on St Helen's square is a Yorkshire institution and rightly so. Sitting in the Art Deco glazed dining room watching the world go by is a rare treat. Rare because the outdoor queues can be most off putting.
If it is windy and raining I recommend a trip round the corner to Little Betty's, located on York's prettiest medieval street - Stonegate.
The food, service and quaint ambience remain in Little Betty's but the queues are shorter and indoors. The upstairs rooms even have one extra special treat - open fires.
Sandwiches and cakes are available to takeaway from shops in both tearooms.
Betty's, St Helen's Square
Little Betty's, Stonegate
A lovely park by the river, essentially the grounds of the Yorkshire Museum. If the sun is shining you can't beat grabbing a sandwich or salad (nearby Deli De Clare recommended) and joining the office workers, students, young families, couples and parties of (mainly French) school kids on the manicured lawns. Choose to sit in the shadows of medieval ruins, by a timbered tudor lodge or in the shadow of mature trees.
An awful lot cheaper and more enjoyable than being ripped off in a tourist trap.
Entrances on Museum St and Marygate.
Deli de Clare on Lendal by the Museum St entrance.
This is a fabulous guesthouse in the cafe'd, art gallery'd town, Holywood, Co.Down and they serve the most amazing breakfast which you choose from a delightfully interesting menu. I thought the creamy 'chilled porridge' would be a return to childhood horrors however it was delicious. The staff are the essence of Irish charm and couldn't do enough for you. Because this place is only ten mins from Belfast you get the best of both worlds.
A self-service café set in the vaults of University Church of St Mary the Virgin. Inside is all long shared tables and dimly lit café wonderfulness. A leisurely coffee and a good book are perfectly matched to its unpretentious welcome. Its Catte St garden faces the Radcliffe Camera so summer lunching is particularly pleasant. The restaurant itself serves consistently tasty and adventurous locally sourced organic food and cakes and fairly traded teas coffees - we have only ever been for lunch after the storytime session at the central library - needless to say it is kid-friendly and affordable too. One thing to bear in mind is lunch is served from 12pm and is very popular so arrive early to avoid queues and shortages.
www.university-church.ox.ac.uk/info/vaults.htm
Tel. 01865 279112
Radcliffe Square, off High St, Oxford.
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