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Santa Maria al Bagno is a beautiful little town on the Ionian coast. The seafront is compact and low key, fronted by old Italian town houses-cum-waterfront cafés. Here you can pick up a gelato or an Africano (espresso with Disaronno, fizzy water and ice) for the tiny but perfectly formed beach. The beach gets busy, especially at weekends but is a fantastic spot for people watching as the crowds are an eclectic mix of bronzed locals, young and old.
I’d recommend spending the afternoon swimming in the crystal clear sea and wait to watch the sun begin to set into the sea before heading south a few miles down the coastal road towards Lido Conchiglie to the fish restaurant, La Maruzella. This restaurant sits right on the water's edge and you can watch the sun disappear into the sea while enjoying their wide range of basic but delicious and incredibly fresh fish dishes (sometimes you can watch the fisherman arrive at the restaurant’s jetty with their catch and see it on your plate 30 minutes later).
Google map: bit.ly/O1uokl
La Maruzella
Lido Conchiglie, 73014 Gallipoli, Italy
+39(0)833208900
Google map: bit.ly/Qu5QRU
Fantastic restaurant that's in what appears to be a private house. It seems to be run by a bunch of friendly, bustling, chatting women - it's like being invited into an Italian family's private meal. The restaurant serves Salentino 'cucina povera' specialities which are all superb. No English spoken so just wait for what the kitchen brings out: blanched chicory in white bean puree (we were shown by a very kindly waitress how to blend it with olive oil and crumbly fried bread) ; home-made oreccheitte di cima di rape; potatoes baked with mussels and cheese. Dish after dish appears. See if you can find my old BBC business card stuck among the hundreds in the walls of the dining room! A neighbouring diner with some English insisted we have a glass of a local tipple with our expresso. It was on the house. One of the best lunches we've ever had.
Via Colonnello Archimede Costadura, 19
73100 Lecce, Italy
+39 0832 245178
Google map: bit.ly/N2vaUb
This is a lovely restaurant set near the gorgeous village of Peschici (at Punta San Nicola), with a beautiful view of the bay and sunset if you go there for dinner. The trabucco is an old fishing structure typical of the Gargano. This restaurant offers fresh fish and is a great place to end a hard day at the beach. The sunset views are to die for. Finish off with a gelato in Peschici itself.
www.altrabucco.it/index.html
Localitá Punta San Nicola - 71010 Peschici (Gargano)
+39 0884 962556
This little taverna is hidden away down the back of the cathedral, on one of the tiny white wash streets. All that is visible on the street is a sign and gateway, with steep steps leading down into the dark.
My mother and I had the most fantastic meal here that we've ever had in Italy in the eight years we've been visiting.
With only three choices for a primo course (and no English!) we made our pick and had an amazing meal of wild boar ragu, and black rice with spinach.
Drinks were served in homely terracotta mugs and jugs.
Dessert was a delicious pannacotta with chocolate sauce, so delicate and artistically dressed with sugar flowers.
The only down side (for my mum) was that they were unable to serve coffee as they did not have a coffee machine, but that may have changed now - being as we visited in 2009.
Prices were reasonable, and the location was stunning - the taverna is perched on descending steep steps, with white washed terraces and flowers in full bloom.
We knew we were on to a winner when the placed filled with Italian customers and locals.
A fantastic location, in a beautiful city, with amazing food!
www.tavernadellagelosia.it/
Vicolo Tommaso Andriola, 26 72017 Ostuni Province of Brindisi, Italy
+39(0)831 334736
Google map: bit.ly/Mrn2v1
Gran Caffe Tito Schipa - a cross between a gelataria, cafe and traditional Puglian family home of sisters Rosa and Annamaria.
We stopped by on recommendation from the owner of our palazzo, and were instantly treated to homemade orichiette on the terrace, deadly-strength G&Ts and straw-coloured homemade wine.
Rosa drove us out to see the Puglian coast and Alberobello and invited us to eat with her Italian family and friends repeatedly. First-class truly Italian experience, warm, hospitable and stunning food.
Gran Caffè Tito Schipa Caffè
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 19-21 72017 Ostuni +393283250470
Google map: bit.ly/OmzZaG
The Masseria Fumarola is a converted masseria, now a beautiful boutique hotel. Every room is unique in its style and decoration and trully delightful. The outside space at the Masseria is fantastic, from a drink on the terrace, al-fresco eating, to the beautiful pool and the surrounding fields. It all adds to your feeling of well being.
But most importantly, the food there is divine!! From the breakfast offering which I still dream off; the amazing cakes (you have to try the carrot cake) to the best ever antipasti buffet ever seen in my life. If I could only eat Masseria Fumarola's antipasti & cake selection, I will have reached heaven.
www.masseriafumarola.it
Via Villa Castelli, 104, 74015 Martina Franca
+39(0)80 4303722
Google map: bit.ly/Mt3yS7
The restaurant is called Bina and it's located in the cutest town of all Puglia: Locorotondo. Bina is all about providing amazing local Puglia produce; beautiful mouth watering dishes combined with fantastic service. We even had the pleasure to meet Bina. If only it was closer, I'd be there every week.
www.binaristorante.it
Via Dottor Recchia, 50, 70010 Locorotondo Bari, Italy
+39 080 431 1784
Google map: bit.ly/NxJkaM
As the name says, eat all you can for one fixed price. Good on veggie food and Indian cuisine. Cheap drinks make it ideal for a group.
www.redhot-worldbuffet.com/redhot_manchester.html
48 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 2EG
+44(0)161 819 1240
Google map: bit.ly/MWcwHE
A lot of cafes say they serve the best coffee in town but this one really does.
Owned by Antonio a fantastic host the food is also special.
A limited choice but all prepared fresh daily.
A first port of call for Italians visiting the city and a growing band of regular customers it's a class and much loved place to meet in the city.
The Met Quarter 43 Whitechapel, Liverpool, Merseyside L1 6DA
+44(0)151 236 2611
Google map: bit.ly/RrADEs
This crumbling medieval town sits beside one of the "gravine" (ravines) which score the landscape on the border between Puglia and Basilicata. Hewn from the rock on which they stand, many of the buildings are worth seeking out; look for the church of San Michele delle Grotte and the osteria Grano e Vino. Cave dwellings found in the gorge are said to date back to the bronze age and are typical of the whole area. The big attraction for outdoorsy types is the nearby Alta Murgia National Park, an environmentally protected plateau. Excursions can be arranged from the town.
www.parcoaltamurgia.gov.it/uk/
Via Firenze, 10 - 70024 Gravina in Puglia (BARI)
+39 080 3262268
Google map: bit.ly/MeFkzF
Osteria Grano e Vino:
osteriagranoevino.it/it/Default.aspx
Via Fontana la Stella, 39, 70024 Gravina in Puglia (BARI)
+39 (0)80 237 74 84
Google map: bit.ly/MYjgdN
What's not to love about this beautiful Italian seaside town in the province of Puglia?! The organic nature of the buildings in the centro storico, morphing from the limestone cliff tops offer a spectacular view from the bridge over Covo dei Seraceni or from one of the multiple balconies, out to the vast azure of the Adriatic ocean. The hometown of Volare's Domenico Modugno has become famous of late for its associations with Red Bull diving and the hotel Grotto Palazzese with its restaurant that sits nestled amongst the escarpments but we much prefer it's simple pleasures. Evening strolls among the narrow, labyrinthine streets, pizzas at Terra Marique or piadine (Italian flatbread filled and folded with your preferred choice) at Il Gabelliere, followed by a gelato in one of the many ice cream parlours dotted among the town - with even potato flavour on the menu at Peppino's Bar if it takes your fancy! Swimming, of course, features high on the agenda but take heed and take a pair of jelly shoes to brave the stony shores - you have been warned. If you want a taste of la dolce vita, quite simply, look no further.
www.grottapalazzese.it
Via Narciso, 59, Polignano a Mare (Bari) Puglia
+39 (0)80 4240677
Google map: bit.ly/QElCQu
An organic and vegetarian restaurant in Seville. Yes, you have read correctly. A meat-free menu! It offers a wide range of fresh, mainly local produce. Salads (from €8-€12.50), cheeses, gazpachos and full meals. There are also set menus for €9.95 Monday to Friday with a starter, main meal and dessert. Wednesdays are curry day - the 'mixed plate' didn't leave much room for the dessert!
In addition to the restaurant, Gaia has an alternative studies centre (massage, Chinese medicine, etc) and a shop selling organic produce.
Staff are incredibly friendly!
www.restauranteecologicogaia.com
Calle de Luis de Vargas, 4 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 (0)954 21 19 34
Google map: bit.ly/O0ODl9
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Discover where the creator of Italy's famous song "Volare" got his inspiration in this small town just south of Bari. We love to wander around the little streets of the whitewashed medieval centre, perched precariously on the edge of the limestone cliffs and watch the waves crashing against the rocks beneath. For a truly special experience, eat at the Grotta Palazzese – this ‘summer cave’ with its views over the Adriatic was carved out of the rocks by a local lord to create a party venue in the 1700s.
www.grottapalazzese.it
Via Narciso, 59, Polignano a Mare (Bari) Puglia
+39 (0)80 4240677
Google map: bit.ly/QElCQu
The Lazy Toad Inn, in Brampford Speke, a village some 15 minutes drive from Exeter city centre, serves excellent food and drink at reasonable prices. Much of the food is locally sourced, including some produce raised in the Inn's own garden.
The Toad also offers accommodation, with the usual facilities, including Wifi access, flatscreen tv, radio alarm, and iPod dock.
It has an attractive interior, with a decorative emphasis upon the eponymous Toad, plenty of space between tables, and a small garden close by with tables for eating and drinking outside in good weather.
The chef/proprietors, Mo and Clive Walker, offer a warm welcome, and the staff generally are knowledgeable and cheerful. The atmosphere combines informality with elegance. It is no surprise that a number of worthwhile awards for quality food have been garnered in recent years. They are highly deserved.
www.thelazytoadinn.co.uk
Brampford Speke, near Exeter, Devon, EX5 5DP +44(0)1392 841591
Google map: bit.ly/MeHAa2
Lang Kwai Fong - neon-lit tourist trap, home to kebab shops, purveyors of vodka-laced jelly and hawkers selling flashing glasses and glowing devil horns. Prefer your vodka unset and a slightly less lads on tour crowd? Once you’ve had your photograph taken under the Lang Kwai Fong sign, I’d suggest hastily darting down an unmarked alley a little further down the hill. This dank and dirty back street may look like the sort of spot that only cockroaches and thugs would lurk, but persevere and you’ll emerge, Alice in Wonderland like, in the middle of Mexico-City.
Well not quite, but the nearest thing that Hong Kong has to Mexico-City - bar-restaurant, Brickhouse.
Perennially packed and with a strict no-bookings policy, if you spot a spare perch make sure that you grab it immediately. The favela-style décor is the perfect mix of gritty cool – graffitied concrete walls, chunky church candles, mish-mash furniture and sunny, bright murals. Drinks taste dangerously non-alcoholic - the raspberry and chili Diabla is as deadly delicious as it sounds and the pineappley Brickhouse Margarita is a great twist on a classic. Soak up the alcohol with some South American snacks. The chips with five salsas are a total winner - super salty, crunchy tortilla chips with home-made guacamole and an array of other more unusual dips. Follow up with pulled pork tacos, tuna tostadas and Mexican Street Corn (chili mayonnaise slathered BBQ-ed corn on the cob sprinkled with cheese and coriander).
And the best news? Several cocktails later, when you fall out of the alleyway back into Lang Kwai Fong, no one will bat an eyelid, they’ll just assume you’ve had one too many vodka jellies.
www.brickhouse.com.hk/
Brickhouse, G/F, 20A D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong,
+(852) 2810 0560
Google map: goo.gl/maps/CoeU1
* Natalie is our local for Hong Kong. You can read all about her here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/hong-kong-local-natalie-robinson.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/natalierobinson
She also has her own blog at: www.3badmice.com/
If you have dreamt of walking though fields of lavender, then Apt is the perfect base to do this. About 1 ½ hours drive north from Marseille airport, Apt is a market town in the heart of Provence. Although not especially pretty, it is perfectly located to visit other wonderful sights – the perched villages of Roussillon, Menerbes and Gordes, wineries with grand, old chateaus and best of all, vast fields of lavender in every direction. Even my reluctant husband and brother drank in the scent! On a practical note, Apt has three supermarkets to stock up with provisions. We also stumbled upon a fantastic restaurant, Chez Nous and enjoyed sublime food, charming service and great value at 28 Euros for three courses. In the middle of July, we may not have been on the Riviera but there were so few crowds! We hired a villa with a pool, with stunning views of the hills surrounding the town. The market in Apt on Saturdays transformed the town, with its colour and perfumes and enabled us to bring back memories of a special Provencal holiday.
Chez Nous, 87-93 rue de la republique, 84400 Apt, France
+33 (0)490743277
Google map: bit.ly/Prob1f
Ah, Nadege. This patisserie is truly a little piece of France in Toronto. I adore this shop. Upon entering, your senses are inundated with the smells of freshly baked croissants and bread, your eyes feast on the beautiful array of pastries, tarts, cakes, buttery croissants, a few sandwiches and various flavours of macarons including salted caramel, rose, pistachio and mojito.
Nadege is also the name of the owner: a pastry chef, chocolatier, confectioner, ice cream maker, traiteur, artist and baker, with experience running Michelin award-winning restaurants in France.
The space has a beautiful outdoor patio, where you can enjoy one of many delicious sandwiches, including smoked turkey with cranberry sauce, or even a pastry with coffee or tea.
This is the place to go to for a gourmet indulgence. Desserts and sandwiches may be a little pricey, but worth every single penny.
Nadege is open every day, beginning at 8AM.
www.nadege-patisserie.com
780 Queen Street West, Toronto, ON
+1 416 368 2009
Google map: bit.ly/R81tS6
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
When I’m looking to have an extra special brunch, one of my favourite spots is Dessert Trends. Here, the food is made using high quality ingredients and the presentation is just as important as taste. I’ve had everything on the brunch menu, with all items being delicious and memorable.
For meat lovers, the house made fennel and pork sausage with scrambled egg on cornbread, balsamic onion compote and a side salad is sure to please. On days when I’m not so ravenous, I go for the lemon dill scramble which comes with a buttery brioche, smoked salmon and salad. The salade nicoise is also a lovely choice, especially if I’m brunching later in the day; it comes with seared ahi tuna, fingerling potatoes, eggs, olives, anchovies, French beans and a champagne vinaigrette.
The real reason I come here, though, is for the desserts. The master pastry chef, Donald
Duong, is a classically trained French chef who has won numerous awards, having made cakes for the Queen, the Pope, the Canadian Prime Minister and several other dignitaries. The desserts and cakes are all works of art that are as delicious as they are beautiful. Rows and rows of lovely creations line the glass counter: mini cheesecakes, tarts, cakelets, I can never resist them and have also tasted most of these creations. Happily, though, different desserts rotate every few weeks, so I always get to try something new.
If you’re not able to make it for weekend brunch, I recommend visiting this place for a great cup of coffee and a splendid dessert. Afternoon tea is now also being offered in the newly renovated space upstairs, with the mandatory fresh scones, croissants and clotted cream, as well as other delectables, like melon and prosciutto sandwiches, pineapple and watermelon gazpacho, and various petit fours.
Brunch is available on weekends, starting at 10 AM. Please note this place is closed Mondays and Tuesdays.
www.desserttrends.ca
154 Harbord Street, Toronto, ON
+1 416 916 8155
Google map: bit.ly/PlGkxo
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
Torontonians, myself included, love to brunch on weekends and dining at a new venue is always a treat. That’s not so difficult to do, as the city has so many brunch options to choose from. Most recently, I tried a popular hangout in Toronto’s west end, Saving Grace, located in the city’s Little Portugal neighbourhood.
This spot is renowned for its great food as well as its famously long line-ups on the weekend. Having been forewarned, my friend and I arrived on a Saturday, a few minutes before the 10AM opening and within minutes, there were at least 10 people behind us.
Saving Grace is a very small restaurant in what used to be a residential home. The small, high- ceilinged room seats about 20 people at closely placed tables. Servers were constantly smiling and attentively serving customers in this bright and airy space with whitewashed walls and sparse décor. No one seems to mind the close quarters or long line ups, though, because this space is all about the food.
Serving brunch seven days a week, the menu consists of a variety of egg dishes, French toast, sandwiches and salads. The chalkboard on the wall always lists the specials of the day. After careful consideration and much thought, I ordered the savoury french toast, which lived up to my expectations. Made with melted Gruyere, baked apples, and caramelized onions, the flavours were spectacular and I also enjoyed the large salad that came with it. My friend ordered the pancakes with fruit, which was also a hit. Four small, dainty pancakes came served with sliced fruit and maple syrup: not too filling and just the right amount. The freshly squeezed juices were also delicious: the pink grapefruit is not overly tart, and the pear and ginger is perfectly refreshing on a hot summer morning.
I was seriously impressed with the food and am already planning my next appearance, but I haven’t decided whether I’ll have the Old White Cheddar Sandwich, which comes with bacon, tomato, avocado, lettuce and rosemary mayo on a toasted whole wheat raisin bread or the Rajasthani scrambled eggs with spicy red onions, tomatoes, chickpea masala, and spicy paratha.
Saving Grace is open for brunch at 10AM on weekends, and 9AM weekdays.
907 Dundas Street West, Toronto, ON
+1 416 703 7368
Google map: bit.ly/PrM358
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
It's a 'formategeria' (cheese restaurant) but although it has a lovely fondue on the menu, its menu isn't especially cheesey. It's a lovely place, great service, attentive and passionate chef who talked us through the Catalan menu. The town itself is nice but provincial and this restaurant is not what you'd expect there.
www.pktus.com
Calle Capdevila, 14, (entrada calle la cruz/carrer la creu)
Google map: bit.ly/T20lOi
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