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A quieter and more peaceful version of the nearby Puerta del Sol. The cafes and restaurants around the square can get busy during the evening with locals popping in and having meals after seeing a play at the Teatro Español which is on the square. However the cafes and restaurants here are much cheaper than in the pricier Plaza Mayor. Just keep your wits about you at night and an eye on your wallet/purse as thieves do operate in this square and the surrounding streets as police do not patrol this area.
Nearest metro station: Sol
Plaza de Santa Ana is a 15 min walk from the Puerta del Sol and is best approached from calle Principe off Carrera de San Jerónimo
Google map: bit.ly/VBwr4A
Terminal 21 is one of Bangkok's many shopping malls but has some unique features. It is themed with different parts of the mall based on different parts of the world, for example there is a London section. It is not just the normal chain retailers that you would expect to see in every mall, but there are many independent retailers (many of them selling high quality clothing / gifts at reasonable prices). The choice of food here is also excellent, especially the Food Hall, which all tourists in Bangkok should try as it is a good way to sample Thai street food but in a pleasant and hygienic environment (it is very cheap too).
www.terminal21.co.th
Soi Watthana, Khlong Tan Nuea, Vadhana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand
+66 2 108 0853
Google map: bit.ly/SPdCqF
Yes, it's a tourist trap and every guide book recommends a visit, but the Hofbrauhaus in Munich's old district is wonderful. It is indeed unmissable because the atmosphere is great and the beer is even better. It has room for hundreds of people in a vast set of chambers originally built in 1896. The food is good and served promptly but bear in mind that the beer, Hofbrau naturally, comes in quantities of a litre or more - there are no half measures!
One's fellow drinkers are good humoured, ready to talk and have a good time, and there's even a traditional Bavarian 'oompah' band which strikes up every five minutes or so, but curiously fails to play a complete set. Perhaps the players need regular topping-up with Hofbrau and that interrupts their performance.
www.hofbraeuhaus.de/
Hofbrauhaus, Burgstrasse, Munich. S-bahn Am Platzl 9
+49 (0)89 29013610
Google map: bit.ly/QtC6ch
What a surprise. Recommended by another restaurant owner in the city we booked this wonderful inn.
Warm and very friendly welcome by the owner.
The food was great:
Appetizer and celery (good but a little corny for my taste), salt cod fritters (great), potato "gnocchi" with clams and "bottarga" (still remember them ... great), noodles with asparagus, shrimp and squid (excellent) and dessert.
I drank a good white wine of the area (telling the truth four glasses) of a winery I knew. I was pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the dishes and the competence and friendliness of the owner.
I will definitely return! Excellent value for money.
www.trattoriasancarlo.it/
Via David Chiossone, 41 16123 Genoa, Italy
+39(0)10 2534294
Google map: bit.ly/RxOjic
This is a quite bohemian street containing many good restaurants and bars that are well worth a visit, just follow the crowds for the best ones. I would especially recommend Toto located for pizza and jugs of vino frizzante and bar di Marche on via del Borghetto.
www.pizzeriadatoto.com
Via San Valentino, 2, 40122 Bologna, Italy
+39 051 523150
Google map: bit.ly/RAUpsx
Food trucks have become very popular in Toronto over the last year, with over 12 vehicles
located anywhere in the city at any given time. And while they are all the rage, locations are often announced at the last minute.
The best way to find out where any of the city’s gourmet food trucks are located is to visit
www.torontofoodtrucks.ca, or follow the trucks on Twitter via @ontfoodtrucks.
Items served from these trucks are not strictly hamburgers and hotdogs. Options include fish tacos, Southern barbeque, brisket sandwiches, eggplant manicotti, lobster, and empanadas, just to name a few.
There’s lots of ethnic food to be had, including the Blue Donkey Streatery, specializing in
Greek cuisine, with items like souvlaki, gyros, fried calamari and feta fries, all under CDN $10; Gourmet Gringos offers tacos, arepas and homemade empanadas; and Fidel Gastro sells unique items such as the Sloppy Jose: cola braised brisket with home style baked beans and a roasted corn aioli, Sgt. Slather: BBQ pulled pork, guacamole cream and crushed tortilla chips and Cheekita Cheekita: beef cheek with pineapple salsa.
www.torontofoodtrucks.ca
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
This is a great healthy little store. They sell wonderful vegan foods like smoked tofu, soy yogurt, vegan pate, nut butters and other items. We also bought some delicious wine from them. The staff speak English and were very helpful. I highly recommend this store for vegans, vegetarians, healthy eaters and/or wine drinkers. Enjoy!
www.greenhousehvar.com
Kroz Burak 27, 21450 Hvar
+385921307808
A buzzy, busy spot in Dublin for lunch or dinner. With main courses around €10, and starters at around €4, it's great for those on a careful budget. I had that day's "selection of daily pinchos" (pinchos are a kind of tapas), which turned out to be a plate of black pudding, chorizo and sausage and green leaves. It was scrumptious.
The cocktail list (€9 each) includes a very good mojito crammed with mint leaves.
You can't book before 6pm, so expect to queue because it's a popular place. We left our telephone number with a member of staff and went off to a nearby pub. After twenty minutes she called to say a table was available. Nothing was too much trouble.
www.green19.ie
19 Camden Street Lower, Dublin 2, Ireland
+353 (1) 478 9626
Opening Hours:
Mon-Sat 10am-11pm
Sunday Midday-10pm
Google map: bit.ly/RAQYHw
Buy your whole picnic here, and make pies your centrepiece. If you like pork pies, you'll be in heaven, but they are all delicious. Find a sheltered spot away from the wind and nosh to your heart's content. If you don't have access to a colourful beach hut, erect a wind break on the pebbly beach (I ate mine in the gardens next to the nearby churchyard). There was a sign saying they make up hampers to order. Imagine that.
80a-80b High Street, Southwold, Suffolk, IP18 6DP
+44 (0)1502 722312
Google map: bit.ly/QBnDKR
This Suffolk institution has been in the family for generations, and is the town's biggest attraction. (Oh all right, there's a nice church and a castle too. And the sea. But it's the smokehouse which makes Orford unique.)
As you crawl from Adnams pub to Adnams inn, past dinky rose-covered cottages and half-timbered homes, don't forget to pop in for a gander at the rows of fish, chicken or cheeses being smoked on the blackened trays. There are no signs, but it's easy to find: just follow your nose (or the smoke) down Bakers Lane, and it's set back on the right. A narrow marble-topped counter in a small room next to the smokehouse has a selection of pâtés and cheeses on top, while the chiller units below display rows of oak-blackened fish, sausages and chickens.
Fed up with losing money on the mountains of kipper pâté she produced and had to throw away (because of the enormous minimum quantities of fish she was forced to buy), Roni has just introduced a new flavour to her range: herring roe pâté. We tried one of the first batches and nearly passed out from its deliciousness. It's strong, so a small tub goes a long way (that's about an hour in my fridge before it is all gobbled up.)
Don't leave without some hot smoked chorizo sausages; home-made and gluten-free, they'll blow your head off and impress (or kill) the neighbours.
www.richardsonssmokehouse.co.uk/
Baker's Lane, Orford, Suffolk IP12 2LH
+ 44 (0) 1394 450103
Google map: bit.ly/P70iPm
My Earl Grey order appeared in a small glass tea pot, from which it was poured into a mismatched bone china cup and saucer in hues of green. This is not the kind of family-run café to serve bags filled with factory sweepings; my tea had been made from the finest leaves in the eastern Himalaya, then massaged with bergamot oil by local virgins. But the full fat blast of texture and flavour from my "Pastel de Nata" (egg custard tart to the rest of us) swept away any pretensions. My partner's mocha was "the creamiest mocha I've ever tasted; 60% chocolate," and his pastry had the right balance of short, cake and chocolate. The waitress – who seemed to have taken a break from the local bridge club to come and help – topped up my pot and chatted to us about sailing round the world and the Royal Bombay Yacht Club.
This is a lovely little bakery-cum-café-cum-restaurant. Don't miss it if you're ever in Orford.
pumpstreetbakery.com/
1 Pump Street, Orford, Suffolk, IP12 2LZ
+44 (0)1394 459829
Google map: bit.ly/QBp1Ny
Try the fortified medieval town of Provins 1h25 by train (from Gare de l'Est) to the south-east of Paris. Away from the usual foreign tourist route. You tend only to find French visitors. Great with kids as there's a donjon, ramparts, underground passages. In summer there are lots of events such as jousting knights, etc. Plenty of restaurants from the good and cheap crepe (Le Fleur du Sel in the old town) to the fancier place with lovely outdoor dining areas.
www.provins.net/index.php/english-version.html
Le Fleur du Sel:
3 Place du Châtel 77160 Provins, France
+33(0)1 64 00 26 34
Google map: bit.ly/Qvs6AP
With its clean air and tranquil pace, a day in the medieval town of Provins is the perfect antidote to hectic city life. Take in the view from La Tour César, enjoy a reasonable menu 'prix fixe' in the square of this old fair town, and check the website for medieval shows taking place. Lounge on the deck chairs in the intoxicating rose garden before enjoying their café speciality of thé gourmand (rose tea, delicate macarons and rose ice cream) before you feel ready to face the city again.
www.provins.net/index.php/english-version.html
Google map: bit.ly/RvdIIS
I was lucky enough to spend a year living in Tunis and loved the beautiful white blue bougainvillea sparkling under the Mediterranean sun. Often on weekends we would have late lunch at Le Neptune, a super relaxed and delicious seafood restaurant just by the sea. Literally, by the sea. The outside terrace gives a beautiful view on Tunis bay and Cap Bon on the other side, happily it is rarely crowded but usually lively so no real need to book. The menu is simple but delicious and reasonably priced (less than 15 quid ahead for three courses and wine). If you like clams they do a delicious version with lots of lovely garlicky sauce to sop up with your baguette. The restaurant is a favourite for middle class locals who want a relaxing lunch with decent Tunisian wine (go for the white!) and if you are visiting its a break from the souk and occasional hassle. The staff are always accommodating and the waiters have clearly been running the place since way before Ben Ali. After lunch you can go for a leisurely stroll around Carthage to work off the clams and meander up to the small fishing port of Carthage and envy the villas before hopping into a taxi for tea and nargileh in Sidi Bou Said. Enjoy!
2 rue Ibn Chabbat, 2016 Carthage
+216 71731456
Dar Bibine is quite simply the most lovely place I have ever stayed. Tucked away down a side street in a quiet village on the relaxed island of Djerba, it is run by two welcoming Belgian expats with a true love for their adopted homeland. We arrived in the wee hours following a very late flight from London via Tunis and despite the late hour were welcomed with continental kisses through the bougainvillea draped doorway into a white and blue fairyland lit with candles and scented with jasmine and orange blossom by both Isabelle and Gerard who dealt with our luggage and even offered to pay the taxi for us and add it to our bill to ensure we weren't cheated.
Gerard is an architect and his eye for design comes through; four beautifully decorated rooms surround a small but perfectly formed swimming pool while above the roof has been converted into a relaxing space to eat, sunbathe, read, or quietly cuddle (the last made possible by the area being divided into sections with flowing drapes and bountiful bougainvillea.) Isabelle is an accomplished cook and often came and found us while we relaxed in the sun to deliver tasty snacks (cool melon, tangy cheeses, olives) or cold beers. The building is situated not far from the village mosque and the calls of the muezzin drift across the walls and into the courtyard without being loud enough to cause disturbance. One side of the guest house is also bordered by a Jewish synagogue (Djerba has an ancient tradition of Islam and Judaism peacefully coexisting) and it was truly magical one Friday evening to sit as the moon rose and listen to both the muezzin calling and the gentlemen of the synagogue sharing their respective faiths in their steady tones across the evening air.
The hotel provides breakfast, with options to your taste but can include fried eggs in the shape of fish, with dots of fiery hot sauce for bubbles, or the really delicious chocolate cous cous and tiny pastries, always accompanied by very strong coffee and cold orange juice. Evening meals, also prepared after a discussion of your tastes, can be provided (and anyone staying there should absolutely do so one evening) for an extremely reasonable extra cost, given the quality of the food. Choice in the village itself is limited but taxis are cheap, reliable and readily available and the main towns on the island are only a very short drive away.
A highlight for us was the tour of the island which Isabelle arranged for us with Faisal, a lively native who managed to speak bits of English, French, German and Italian - often in one sentence! He spent several hours showing us sights including Roman ruins, underground mosques and potteries (the heat made working and praying underground a necessity in times past) and even climbed trees to retrieve dates, olives and pomegranates for us to sample claiming (as he did about nearly everything) that these were the best available tout le mondo! At the end of the tour we were so enchanted we ended up paying him nearly triple what he had requested, certainly the best value £40 I have ever spent. I did consider suggesting Faisal as a tip himself but suspect he doesn't have a website and might need to be contacted by friends of friends (he was that type of chap).
A good tip would be to go prepared to exercise any lingering school French. Isabelle has excellent English but the locals have almost none and we found ourselves racking our brains for long forgotten vocabulary to describe what we wanted. That said, everyone was extremely friendly and patient and rather delighted to be muddling through with us.
Our visit to Djerba was so excellent that we have often said that we aren't sure we'd want to return in case it was all a dream.
www.darbibine.com/en_darbibine.php
Rue Abdel Wahab 7, Erriadh, Djerba
+216 75671196
A great restaurant, not (quite) in the tourist trap of the old quarter. I had been recommended to eat here by my Couch Surfer host. I lingered outside thinking that it was a little too quiet of an afternoon. I even foolishly perched myself on a chair outside, when I saw a lady enter in. I followed and found the restaurant full of chattering clientele. Having accustomed myself to always eating with friends, it was strange to be a sole diner. I got by ordering in Spanish - I opted for fregola sarda a large bowl of specks of pasta with squid, cherry tomatoes, courgette and garlic. That was just a primi plato, I really can't imagine how on earth I would manage antipasti or a segundi!! The cost for the dish, 1/4 of wine and a big bottle of water was €18.
www.pescedoroalghero.it/ita/home.php
Via Catalogna, 12
+39 079 952 602
Google map: bit.ly/O6qKMq
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
An ingenious name for a granita bar. I had tested the Spanish variety, granizado, and was disappointed. When invited to try it in Alghero, I was dubious at first recalling an unquenched thirst and plastic-like flavour. There are places that serve up syrup-topped ice in Alghero, but this bar in particular prides itself on using fresh ingredients, which is clear in the flavour of these frosty treats. Affordable and refreshing in the heat of the summer.
Via Kennedy, 16
+39 2415 2332
Google map: bit.ly/SddbfO
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
For a lighter meal (on the pocket too) this establishment serves up foccacia - large sandwiches. I think I would have been a bit daunted to enter alone, as it was packed to the rafters. You had to make your order first and then queue to collect it. For just 2.50 you can bag a large square with a variety of fillings, but the Milese house special was sliced fresh tomatoes, a layer of tuna, some hard-boiled eggs chopped into pieces, a few anchovies, a layer of rocket salad, a layer of thinly sliced onions and, last but by no means least, a layer of pancetta. All of these layers are seasoned with a special sauce created by Signora Maria, which is top secret!
www.barmilese.it/
Via Garibaldi, 11
+39(0)79952 419
Google map: bit.ly/TcFNDB
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Restaurant right on Mansourah Beach (2km north of Kelibia). Tables set into rocks in the sea. Delicious seafood, good wine selection, amazing views, friendly staff.
El-Mansourah Plage, Kelibia
+216 72 295169
Restaurant right on Mansourah Beach (2km North of Kelibia). Tables set into rocks in the sea. Delicious seafood; good wine selection; amazing views; friendly staff.
El-Mansourah Plage, Kelibia
+216 72 295169
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