A really decent pub.
This is part of the Belhaven chain and has a very good value drinks menu. Additionally the food menu is very reasonably priced and very tasty - a step above a lot of pubs.
In the less busy times of the week, there are great deals to be had on food and drink.
They even have a 'Man V Food' challenge on Tuesdays!
The pub is situated on the popular Shore area of Edinburgh (Leith) and feels like a pub that should be in a port with all the nautical memorabilia on the walls.

www.belhavenpubs.co.uk/pub/get_pub/77/
58 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6RA
+44(0)131 554 2425
Google map: bit.ly/Ir9Y7H

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This seaside restaurant is the best I have eaten at in 11 years of travelling around Italy. Fresh fish, stunning scenery, it is Sicilian dining at its best. We were taken here by Sicilian friends, a testament to its excellent reputation.
The first thing that hits you is the view. Located overlooking Isola Bella, a lush island nature reserve below the chic resort town of Taormina, Il Gabbiano makes the most of its setting with several beautiful terraces.
Specialising in "frutti di mare" - fruits of the sea - Il Gabbiano serves up anything your seafood-loving stomach desires. We ate king prawns, sardines, squid, and beautiful fresh fish baked over charcoal and filleted at our table, served with fresh lemon, olive oil and herb dressing.
The service is delightfully attentive, but the atmosphere is completely relaxed. It typifies what I love most about coastal Italy: great food that is simple, plentiful and found in unassuming, roadside restaurants which hide stunning seaside views.

www.ilgabbianoristorante.it/en/home.php
Via Nazionale n. 115, Taormina, Isola Bella, Sicily
+39 (0)942 625128
Google map: bit.ly/ImqaR7

It can be easily reached by car from the motorway, or on foot from Taormina centre via the cable car down to the beach. It is located 100m from the cable car station.
Nearest train station: Taormina-Giardini Naxos (taxi or bus to Isola Bella)

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Among the burgers and burritos that dominate much of Austin’s eating out landscape, the Whip In’s Indian food with a Texas twist is a welcome alternative. The Whip In is ominously located just off the interstate highway that dissects the city, but the service station exterior should not put you off from experiencing the imaginative dishes and remarkable range of drinks on offer. Creativity and fresh organic ingredients combine to make the many mouthwatering offerings available on the menu. At six to seven dollars, the vegan rice bowls are not only a bargain and an escape from the meat centric diet of Texas, but they are also palate pleasing mixtures of intricate spicy Indian flavours that will fill you up too – I particularly recommend the Zambian corn and pepper masala in
spicy coconut curry. The combination of Chutneyfied eggs, corn tortilla, black bean masala and spiced basmati rice that constitute Mumbai migas offer the visiting breakfaster an unusual Indian- Mexican dish, which is very tasty and a great way to start the day. Indeed a core aim of the Whip In’s new chef, Claudia Alarcón, is to “Whip Indianze comfort food classics” and her curried ratatouille builds upon the project started by the general manager Dipak Topiwala, the inventor of such delights as the South Asian Frito Pie: Beef, beer-curried chili, fritos, black bean masala, shredded cheese, sour
cream, and cilantro chutney. I must stop myself from further lyrical waxing about the food, because the Whip In is much more than just a place to eat. Run by the friendly and ever present members of the Topiwala family, the Whip In has been evolving since day one, back in 1986: starting as a convenience store and gas station the space now remarkably accommodates a café, pub, liquor store, music venue, and grocery market selling organic locally produced ready meals and other snacks. They have over 60 beers on tap, but if none of these satisfy your curiosity then just wander to the open fridges and select something exciting from the astonishing number of beers and wine available in the store (they will open it for you at the counter). The interior café is intimate and comfortable with a small stage for music, wooden bar stools line the length of the extensive bar, and there is also a large outdoor seated area, which gets packed on Friday and Saturday nights as people gather to relax, chat, and be entertained by bands playing on the Mariposa Music Garden stage. The number of services offered at the mighty Whip In makes it a nightmare for a reviewer to condense – unbelievably an onsite brewery is being added in 2012 - but the sheer diversity also serves up something for everybody in a lively, relaxed and extremely fun atmosphere.

www.whipin.com/index.html
1950 S Interstate 35 Austin, TX 78704
+1(512) 442 5337
Google map: bit.ly/HkXIWo

* Mark Sheaves is our Been there local for Austin. You can read his profile and about Austin here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/austin-local-mark-sheaves.jsp and you can follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/MarkSheaves. Check out other locals here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp

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Just an hour from Nice in rural Provence lies the beautiful village of Villecroze. Blink and you miss it but situated on the main street is 'La Cascade'. Every lunchtime and evening, Martine cooks quietly in view of her lucky customers. Delivering Salade de Chevre Chaud, Daube Provencale, Creme Brulee and Tarte aux Pommes. Complimented by wine from the local vinyard 'Valcombe' not a mile away. Welcomed with a cold aperitif on a summer evening and waved goodbye apres cafe, you just can't get more French than this.

Rue Ambroise Croizat, 83690 Villecroze, France
+33 826 10 69 06
Google map: bit.ly/HJmJtU

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This is the best meal I have had in Paris. It is near Gare de l'Est at 2 rue St Laurent 75010 tele. 42 05 98 20. It is not open at weekends. The menu is limited but the food is awesome. It is also a wine bar and the wines are as good (and as reasonably priced) as the food.

2 Rue St Laurent, 75010 Paris, France
+33 1 42 05 98 20
Google map: bit.ly/HdKad3

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Over the past few years, glistening trailers have colonized vacant parking lots and flat open spaces across Austin, offering innovative and delicious cuisine from all around the world. Playing on traditional Texan trailer parks, these kitchens on wheels pride themselves on quality, value, innovation, ethical produce, and providing an unpretentious eating experience. The trailer park located on trendy South Congress Avenue is no exception. One of the founding fathers of the trailer park eating movement is restaurant owner and chef Jeff Blank who was approached by the Austin City Limits Festival to provide local quality food for the festival goers in 2002, and in 2009 opened The Might Cone. Not to be confused with an ice-cream van, the Might Cone sells tortilla cones filled with chicken, avocado, or shrimp, coated in the special Hot and Crunchy batter of Chilies, Almonds, sesame seeds and corn flakes. Look out for specials as these guys like to experiment by putting their batter on everything: “If it sits still long enough, we'll put Hot 'n' Crunchy on it”. For the most exotic German Sausage you could conceive of then visit Wurst Tex next door; I recommend the Predator and Prey which is rattle-snake and rabbit with a hint of jalapeño, but the El Wursto (Chicken and Turkey, with mild habenero, green chilies and Tequila) may be a safer bet for those of you seeking something more familiar. If you have space, or even if you don’t, you shouldn’t leave without trying the “decadent goodness” of Hey CupCake! The creamy fluffy infusion embodied in the signature cupcake Vanilla Dream must be tried, but so too should the chocolate, carrot, and strawberry flavours – to be inspired I recommend that you watch their promotional video at www.heycupcake.com/. If you are too stuffed to try a cup cake first time, look out for their super shiny trailers at four other locations across the city and their café.
Closing times vary and can be erratic, as they are often determined by the moment that daily provisions have been devoured, which is something I have always found reassuring. Picnic benches are laid out alongside the trailers and these offer a convenient spot for those seeking to watch the cool people making their moves up South Congress.

1600 South Congress Avenue, Austin, TX 78704
+1 (512) 383-9609 _
Google map: http://g.co/maps/2sm8v

Wurst Tex: www.wursttex.com
Opening Times: Wed 11am – 7pm. Thurs 11am – 8pm. Fri & Sat 11am – 9pm. Sun: 11am – 6pm
Hey Cup Cake: www.heycupcake.com/
The Mighty Cone: www.mightycone.com/index.html
Opening times: 11am – 9 pm every day except Monday


* Mark Sheaves is our Been there local for Austin. You can read his profile and about Austin here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/austin-local-mark-sheaves.jsp and you can follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/MarkSheaves. Check out other locals here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp

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I am obsessed with The Magnolia Café, and so is the rest of Austin. The Magnolia café is really a classic all-American diner, and it is common knowledge this is simply the best diner in Austin: as their slogan states, “Everybody knows, Everybody goes”. And you must go! Pulling into a diner one would always expect to order a huge burger with mountains of chips or, given that we are in Texas, tacos, enchiladas or fajitas smothered in melted cheese: you will not be disappointed by the giant size of the Magnolia’s freshly prepared plates of these classic dishes. But there are plenty of places to have good burgers and fajitas in Austin, so I really would not look any further than the Breakfasts which are served 24 hours a day! I love Eggscape which is two eggs over “a mini mountain of seasoned home fries and sausage, topped with cheddar/jack cheese”, although the Flaco Taco (scrambled egg, avocado, cheese and bacon in a tortilla) is potentially a healthier option. A breakfast at the Magnolia Café would not be complete without at least one pancake with a selection of toppings of your choice – I have Buttermilk pancake with chocolate, pecans, bacon and lashings of maple syrup every time, but they also come with a variety of fresh fruit. As you would expect from an American diner, your coffee cup is replenished the minute you finish the last drop so if you do make a visit at 4am, you won’t need to worry about falling asleep at the table. There are two Magnolia cafes in Austin, but the one I know best is on South Congress Avenue, and is dangerously located just one block from my house. The food is served by a team of good humored and relaxed staff and the atmosphere is very relaxed and unpretentious, “kind of like your favorite aunt’s giant kitchen” as they claim. The Magnolia Café gets very busy on Saturday and Sundays, and it is common to queue, in fact I have even queued at 3am on a Tuesday, but it is totally worth the wait.

www.themagnoliacafe.com/
1920 S. Congress Avenue, Austin, TX 78704
+1 512 445 0000
Google map: http://g.co/maps/n8n4d

* Mark Sheaves is our Been there local for Austin. You can read his profile and about Austin here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/austin-local-mark-sheaves.jsp and you can follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/MarkSheaves. Check out other locals here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp

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For some Bristol dwellers, cycling along the Bristol – Bath Railway Path is the first thought on waking up to a glorious summer day. This 13 mile route has a rather unpromising start, found by passing through an industrial and slightly insalubrious area of Bristol. However, once on it you’re soon away, leaving the city behind as you pass through the cool and dark Staple Hill Tunnel and emerge into the picturesque countryside of South Gloucestershire.
Along the way there are plenty of idyllic picnic spots and opportunities to cool off in the River Avon. You can also take a ride on a heritage steam train at Bitton, or just enjoy watching it puff past. A couple of decent pubs provide refreshments; it’s worth taking the turning for Saltford and heading to the Jolly Sailor to sit in the garden overlooking Saltford Lock supping a local ale. This can be a destination in itself, located 9 miles from Bristol. Otherwise, continue on to Bath and spend a few hours wandering around this pretty spa town. For those who feel this is quite enough exercise for one day, trains run frequently back to Bristol, taking just 10 minutes.
The path can get busy but never unpleasantly so as it remains at a comfortable three metre width for the duration. There are also no significant hills to contend with, meaning it has all the makings of a fun, free and active day out, suitable for all ages and levels – the perfect way to celebrate the arrival of longer days.

www.bristolbathrailwaypath.org.uk contains all the information about the route, history and attractions.
www.avonvalleyrailway.org has information about the heritage railway
www.jollysailorpub.com has menus and photos
Google map: bit.ly/GYAGhT

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Collect your bike in Aberfoyle and head north on the A821. It's a little rough on the way there. Lots of hills but you'll soon forgive Scotland, because it's unbelievably beautiful. 15 breathtaking miles and two national forests later you'll find yourself at Loch Katrine where you can take a well earned break. I wish I was there now. Heart popping. Oh, and on the way back make sure you stop at The Wee Blether tea room. Super nice cafe with an Americana vibe. Ace.

Wee Blether
Lochside, Kinlochard, FK8 3TL
Google map: bit.ly/H4m8Px

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Centro is the place to go for imported Italian foods. This family-run shop has been in the Corso Italia neighbourhood for over 30 years, and it’s one of my mum’s favourite places to shop. Upon entering, you will see an enormous array of cheeses hanging from the ceiling, a deli counter stretching the entire length of the store, and shelves with cookies, crackers, pasta, coffee, olive oil and other delights from Italy.
While some of the cheese and deli sold is locally produced, most of the products are imported directly from Italy. The cheese sold here is some of the finest. My mum will only buy her beloved parmigiano reggiano here and I really love the taleggio and gorgonzola, always fresh and tasty.
The deli meats are great too, and you can have a panino, or sandwich, made right before your eyes. The lady behind the counter can fill up a freshly baked bun with whatever your heart desires: prosciutto, mortadella, marinated eggplants, salami, etc.
My mum and I always try to get here before lunch, so we can head to the back of the store where there is a very modest dining area serving some of the best homemade Italian food. The place is usually filled to capacity, so getting here just before noon is a must. Whether it’s a veal sandwich with tomato sauce and roasted red peppers with mozarella, two sausages with rapini or dandelion on the side, lasagna with salad, homemade ravioli, and even Italian wedding soup, there is no skimping here. Portions are generous, the food is superb and the price is great - lunch will cost roughly $10 or so.

www.centrotrattoria.com
1224 St. Clair Avenue West (near Dufferin)
Toronto, Canada
+1 416 656 8111
Google map: bit.ly/GPtJ3g

* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti

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Open every day of the week, Tre Mari has been in business since 1960, offering Italian pastries, cookies, and bread, which are baked non-stop throughout the day. The bakery also features a full service hot table with lunch and dinner specials such as pasta, veal, sausage and meatball sandwiches, most plates for less than $10. The barista makes a great coffee, too.
Whenever I visit the bakery, I always follow the same pattern, taking a quick look around the bakery for an interesting find, and then stopping in front of the large display case, admiring the delicious confections. On my last visit, there were cannoli – crispy, light golden shells filled with a smooth and sweet ricotta cheese filling, millefeuille – ever so thin and light pastry layered with thick, creamy custard and icing sugar on top, lobster tails – deep fried pastry goodness in the shape of a lobster tail, and filled with crème fraiche, and chocolate marzipan logs, using a chocolate that is more bitter than sweet, which blends nicely with the almond. On this particular visit, I was torn between the cannoli and the chocolate marzipan, so I bought both. I sat down in the café and ordered an espresso, thick and earthy and not too strong. Pure heaven.
There are other Italian bakeries in the neighbourhood, some of them a bit more high end with fancy espresso machines and tablecloths, but I love Tre Mari for its simplicity and old world charm. There’s something really nice about sitting in this bakery, watching generations from the same family – grannies and grandkids – enjoying food and their time together.

www.tremaribakery.ca
1311 Saint Clair Avenue West
Toronto, Canada
+1 416 654 8960
Google map: bit.ly/GINYVa

* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti

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Prádelna Café has a laid-back, homely charm. Spending an hour or so there is like friend’s mum’s kitchen on a Saturday afternoon. Expect bare wooden tables, blue and white decor, dried lavender and massive windows facing the street.

Located 50m from Jiřího z Poděbrad metro station (on the green line), the “Laundry cafe“ is so named as the buidling previously functioned as a...laundry! Even today, the cafe retains that sort of friendly, clean efficiency you expect from a laundrette – the proporietor bakes cakes in the main room while taking orders and making cappucino. Prádelna offers a broad drinks menu and decent food options, including daily soups (from 38 CZK), pates (from 65 CZK), paninis (63 CZK) and homemade ice cream and desserts. Their fresh baked cakes come extremely highly recommended.

A great local business with friendly service.

pradelna-cafe.cz/onas.php
Slavíkova 21 , 120 00 Prague 2
+420 774 843 477
Google map: bit.ly/GIZtey

* Helen is our Been there local for Prague. Her page is here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-helen-ford.jsp and she has her own blog here: czechingin.wordpress.com/

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Picture this. Stunning sun drenched open terrace overlooking a deep blue green Mediterranean sea. I could gaze endlessly out at the small islands in the distance. Instead, I have work to do: deciding what to order. Will it be the Ottoman style lamb shanks, grilled sea bass, a traditional claypot chicken or the fainting priest (aubergine and veggie hot pot)? Adam makes it easy and suggests grilled garlic prawns, rice and salads. We all opt for this and soak up the atmosphere with a bottle of cool crisp Cankaya white wine. We witness a spectacular pink hued sunset from our small corner of paradise.
We return a few days later for brunch- heaven on many little plates: Pan fried paprika infused white cheese, a selection of local cheeses, poached paprika egg dish, fresh bread, salads, organic tomatoes and cucumbers, a selection of home grown olives in various marinades, home made jams and honey and the list goes on! My daughter plays with bunny rabbits and works up an appetite chasing roosters and chickens with Adam's children.
Adam's Place allows you to escape from the hustle and bustle of a busy tourist town and experience a traditional Turkish meal in a relaxed informal setting.
Adam is charming, helpful and friendly. He and his family are gracious hosts. We have been frequenting Adam's Place since first coming to Kalkan in 2007. All meals include home grown organic produce. Whether an al fresco breakfast, brunch or dinner, Adam's Place does not disappoint.
Adam will even drive you to/from your holiday home in Kalkan as his restaurant is about a 5-10 minute drive from the centre of Kalkan.

Adam's Place
Kas Road, Kalkan
+90 0242 844 3232

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I'd arrived in Mardin from Sanliurfa in the evening, watching through the window of my bus as Mesopotamia turned from green to gold in the setting sun, before fading into the twilight as darkness fell.
Mardin is a small town in the southeast of Turkey, golden stone house rising in chaotic rows up the side of a rocky escarpment. To the south the land falls away to a vast plain that stretches away into Syria. Tiny rivers incise the heavily irrigated fields and it feels like the view continues on into infinity. However, I was staying in the far less glamorous, but far more affordable new town at the foot of the escarpment, and so for me the view would have to wait until the following day.
After checking in, I set off into the town in search of something to eat. No golden stone houses here, just the usual mess of concrete and brick and nowhere looked promising. Turning down a side street I saw one restaurant, but with no-one sat outside I walked on, hoping to find somewhere better frequented. After a few more minutes I turned back and took a closer look at the first restaurant; the Karburger Kino. Inside it was all fluorescent lighting and Formica tables, but it was also very busy; the locals clearly felt differently to me about what constituted suitable weather for dining al fresco. I walked in and a waist coated waiter handed me a menu and sat me at a table next to an old local man who was also eating alone.
Western pop music was pumping out of restaurants speaker system, but as Christina Aguilera gave way to Carlos Santana I conceded that someone had pretty decent taste. Around me local families were talking and laughing, and the old man at the next table was industriously demolishing a delicious looking combination of meat and rice. After several solid days of grilled meat and flat bread, it looked like heaven. The waiter came back over and I enthusiastically pointed at my neighbour’s dish. He flipped open the menu and pointed at the first item on there; Karburger. It seemed I had ordered the house special.
A few minutes later the waiter returned with my drink and a small plate of mysterious looking starters. I gingerly started eating, and found myself tucking into a selection of local specials, ranging from delicious meatballs fried in bread crumbs to a far less inviting suet based concoction.
Next came the Karburger main; a huge plate of shredded lamb on a bed of rice, with a side bowl of chilli and tomato sauce for pouring over the dish. It was fabulous, and I wolfed it down, but my waiter wasn’t done with me. My sun-chapped lips still stinging from the hot sauce, I was presented with a small Noah’s Pudding, which I finished off with the last bit of space in my stomach filled.
The meal done with and the waiter thanked profusely for the excellent meal, there was only the bill to come. It was 13 Lira, about £5. I paid with a hefty tip and left happy. Staggering back to my hotel, I realised how lucky I had been to stumble onto such a marvellous, local, authentic place. It may not have looked like a great restaurant, but that’s what makes such places such a great surprise!

Turn left from the Hotel Bilem in the new town.
Mardin Merkez, Vali Ozan Cad., Mardin, Turkey
+90 482 212 5568
Google map: bit.ly/GTRlDa

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When visiting the historic town of Ayvalik on Turkey's Aegean coast, do as the locals and Turkish summer visitors do and head to Cunda (AliBey) in the evening.
The Deniz Restaurant on the sea front has a marvelous array of hot and cold mezes, mainly vegetarian or sea food, including stuffed courgette flowers, samphire and sea urchin when in season. The fresh fish that almost inevitably follows is delicious although prepared simply by either frying or grilling (depending on the type of fish). Try the local speciality, papalina, tiny fried fish eaten bones, head and all.
In winter you can eat inside in front of an open fire.
You should try drinking Raki whether winter or summer, but don't forget to dilute it!
The best thing about the Deniz Restaurant is its affordability - a full meal with Raki or wine will cost about £20-25 per head which compares favourably to the many neighbouring restaurants. The Deniz Restaurant is the one the locals choose and they can't be wrong, they may even have caught the fish served there!

cundadeniz.com/
Cunda Deniz Restourant sahil boyu no:15 Alibey adası Ayvalık/Balıkesir
+90(0)266 327 16 85

Accessible by bus or dolmus from Ayvalik or by small ferry in season. Or you can drive over the causeway. The restaurant is on the seafront near the "Tas Kahve".
Tel: 0266 327 16 85

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‘Son Çare’ (meaning Last Chance), situated in Antalya’s atmospheric and beautifully restored Kaleiçi (old town) provides a glorious sight at any time of the day. This small – barely more than a kiosk – establishment is secreted away just behind the picture postcard Clock Tower. It comes into its own late at night when the bars, clubs and music venues are starting to disgorge their customers.
The smell and sound of sizzling köfte (a spicy Turkish meatball) will direct you to the right place. Ask for a köfte sandwich and the guy will throw four or five meat balls on to the barbeque, closely followed by a generous portion of bread. Once this is cooked, the fun really begins - a large counter out front displays every kind of fresh salad vegetable available including: different types of lettuce, rocket, flat-leafed parsley, mint, tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, onions, carrots, the list goes on. Next there are bowls of spices: pul biber (red pepper flakes), sumac, thyme, cumin, black pepper and small but deadly pickled chillies. Fill your sandwich to your heart’s content and wash it all down with a cool glass of ayran – a refreshing salty yoghurt drink.
Not only does this mop up any alcohol and help ward off next day’s hangover, but you can feel justified in having indulged yourself in a healthy snack. Beats chips with curry sauce any day.

Just off Dönerci Çarşısı, close to the clock tower in Antalya's Kaleici - just ask any local!

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It's a simple deal: first join the shouting throng in the market, and select your catch from the dizzying array of freshly caught seafood. Take your prize to one of the little restaurants surrounding the market, where it will be grilled, and served with a mountain of springy green salad and puffy "balloon bread." Enjoy your meal in the square with an Efes beer, watching the market wind down and the evening Fethiye come to life.

Pazar Yeri, Fethiye, Turkey
Google map: bit.ly/GI7tbC

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For the freshest fish in Istanbul, head for the harbour where a large traditional boat is moored on the quayside. As the fishermen land their catch, another group fillets the fish and lays them on a vast barbecue on the boat. It is quite a sight to behold as the golden mackerel sizzle gently before being placed on warm Turkish bread and served by men in colourful braided waistcoats. The queue is long but fast moving as hundreds of Turks and tourists alike enjoy a delicious lunch at the little tables set alongside the boat on the harbour while listening to the calls to prayer from the several mosques gracing the skyline. A memorable experience and lunch for two for less than a fiver!

Beside the Galata Bridge which crosses the Golden Horn at Eminonu, facing the Yeni Camii mosque.
Google map: bit.ly/GGoxRv

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An hour’s drive out of Antalya lies a small village next to the sea called Cirali. After sunbathing in the early afternoon sun and a refreshing swim we sat in the shade with a cold beer wondering where in this small village we would eat dinner. We asked at the pensyion where he could recommend eating. “What do you like?” he replied, I said fish, Jimi said Kofte. “OK come back at 7pm and it will be ready”.
He then set off in his little boat along the coast with us wondering why he left in such a hurry. 7pm arrives and we apprehensively approached the cushioned area at the front of the Pension. (It was out of season so not set up for a restaurant.) To our great surprise Cemil laid out a wonder of treats before us. Meze to start with Babaganoush style dip, fresh Turkish warm breads, a tatzijki sort dip and fresh rough looking pitted olives. The main was just as I asked, freshly caught fish to order just hours old and home-made sizzling koftas with a delicious fresh mouthwatering local salad. We ate our feast to the sun setting, looking out to the sea and delightful Turkish music playing in the background. We were offered cold beers or Raki and water (a traditional Turkish combo). I would never have imagined that a small pension in the middle of nowhere could have produced us such a wonderful meal in such a picturesque and idyllic setting. I would recommend Cemils Pension in Cirali as a relaxed and beautiful place to eat a delicious and memorable meal.

www.cemilpension.com/
+90 242 825 7063

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Turks are famed for their hospitality, so for me, the best eating in Turkey is neither in the cities nor the resorts, but in people’s homes. Get off the beaten track and many people are delighted to welcome visitors. On a recent road trip between the Mediterranean resorts of Antalya and Kaş, my friend was caught short while passing through at small village. We stopped to ask a group of women outside the village shop if there was a toilet handy. One of them, smiling broadly, beckoned us into her neighbouring house to use her facilities. She then insisted we sit while she brought us traditional tulip shaped glasses of piping-hot çay (Turkish tea). While we were busy drinking, we realised she was preparing our lunch - an offer we couldn’t refuse.
A few minutes later, a huge tray arrived, laden with dishes. A saucer of olives picked from the tree in her garden and home-cured with thyme and lemon was followed by sliced tomatoes in which you could taste the warmth of the Medittarenan sun. A plate of strong, crumbly local goats cheese came accompanied by bowls of creamy chicken soup that our host indicated had also come from her garden, gesturing outside at the small flock of happily clucking hens. It was all served with piles of yufka – delicious and impossibly soft and thin village flatbread. We ate it, attempting to communicate in our few words of Turkish with our host and her assorted children, grandchildren and their friends. The warmth of this welcome and the delicious simplicity of the food is the real taste of Turkey.

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