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Above water, Tenerife’s shoreline is less than pretty in places, but beneath the sea there’s some fantastic views on offer. And, thanks to a small marine conservation project put in motion by diving operators Ocean Dreams Factory, even novice divers or those on beginners’ courses can get a share of the action.
At just eight to ten metres’ depth, we swam with the resident turtles and hovered over rays, cuttlefish and octopus, in sheltered bay El Puertito, where the team has been working to restore the ecosystem. Close to the south’s plush resorts, but a million miles away in every other sense, this is a really special experience, thanks to the firm’s enthusiastic boss and his team.
www.oceandreamsfactory.com
Puerto Colon, southern Tenerife. Tel. 922 716 116
Raju's serves south Indian breakfasts in the mornings and banana leaf tiffins (the Malaysian BLT - a pile of rice and curry served, as everything is at Raju's, on a banana leaf) in the afternoon.
Now, it is not on the tourist beat, it is not within sight of the Twin Towers, it's not even technically in KL but it is one of the best restaurants in the world.
It is situated next door to La Salle school on Jalan Chantek which is off Jalan Gasing which is off the Federal Highway heading towards Shah Alam. This is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world though. It has a large outdoor dining area shaded by trees and with a charmingly bubbling storm drain running down one side. But this is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world.
It is situated in a stand of shops which includes a picture framers, a photo shop and a barber's in a suburban residential area, populated by rather well off Malaysians, with Indians rather more plentifully represented than is perhaps the average. But this is not the reason it's the best restaurant in the world.
The reason it's the best restaurant in the world is because it serves, in the mornings, roti canai - which is the best breakfast in the world.
Basically a paratha-style flatbread of many calories, it is griddle fried freshly so that a crisp, friable crust forms on the dough, which is then punched and broken up before serving. Fairly boring, really. But then add some dal, some fish curry kuah (the gravy, not the actual fish) and perhaps a small piring (dish) of mutton curry, or a piece of fried tengiri, then add to this a teh tarikh (tea made with condensed milk which has been "tarikh'd", i.e. "pulled" through the air from one vessel to another to aerate and cool) and heaven, my friends, is a place on earth.
So. Be seated. There is no reservation, there is no plate captain, no "This way sir" - this is Malaysia old-style. There are many south Indian waiters in white shirts and blue trousers however. Call one over and ask for "roti canai" (pronounced "rotty chan-eye") and a teh tarikh. The dal, some carrot chutney and some coconut chutney are dumped unceremoniously in front of you along with a damp banana leaf. It is perfectly permissible to dry off the leaf with a tissue. I don't bother. And wait. A short time later (longer if at the weekend) and the roti, steaming, fragrant and - a sticking point for many - slightly smaller than average disc of bread is casually clapped onto your leaf. Serve yourself with dal, chutneys in small pools around the circumference. Some pour great ladlefuls of dal all over the roti, mash it into a mush and devour it sloppily in handfuls. A perfectly acceptable way to eat it in my opinion.
But we will choose the dainty option (though not the daintiest - forks and spoons are available, and widely used).
Tear off a small piece of roti, drag it through the dal (whilst arguing with your friends about whether or not the best nasi lemak is to be found in Ipoh or Penang) and pop it in your mouth. There is a faint cuminy, asafoetida tang to the dal, a faint sweetness (not too sweet, oh no) to the roti and a mouth feel (as Mr Blumenthal would have it) which is crunchy, soft, full-flavoured with mild spice (but not too mild, oh no) and completely satisfying. Tear off another piece. Pick up a perfectly tender piece of curried mutton - and although I never had a bad mutton curry when I lived in Malaysia, Raju's has to be the best - and once again, those curious contrasts are there. Crunchy/soft, spicy/bland, tangy/sweet. Take a sip of your scaldingly hot teh tarikh: it is foamy, sweet, strong and in combination with the roti and the curry as precisely perfect as any of the great pillars of Malaysian food when made perfectly. nasi lemak, laksa, prawn mee, char kway teow - roti canai. These are the five. Now you know one. Seek the rest.
Raju's Banana Leaf Restaurant, nearest LRT Taman Jaya, but it's quite a hike in the heat. Take a cab and ask for "Jalan Gasing, PJ" (pron. "gassing" pron. "peejay") then take the first left after the elevated LRT line. Raju's is at the end of the stand of shops on the right hand side of Jalan Chantek.
Dherinia lies on a hill, north of Ayia Napa in south-east Cyprus, on the edge of the no man’s land, which marks the border between the divided north and south.
One sunny, windy Easter-week day, we drove there and paid a tiny fee to climb steps from the haphazard garden of what is not much more than a shack, to a viewing platform where, through telescopes, you can scan a desolate and abandoned townscape of Famagusta, deserted during the conflict of 1974.
Our five-year-old son loved the telescopes and running round the platform, pointing out windmills and the sea, whilst our three-year-old daughter played happily (and safely) in the garden below, full of fig trees, plants and flowering bushes, feeding leaves to the giant tortoises that slowly ambled around a wire enclosure. We were mesmerised by the site of the empty buildings and houses, imagining the scenes on the day they were left amidst the violence and uproar.
Afterwards we sat in the garden at the wooden tables painted cobalt blue, having fresh, warm banana cake and tea, provided by the elderly, handsome owner, speaking grammatically perfect English - somehow a human embodiment of the region’s past. He has also lovingly curated a mini-museum to his country's sad history, with yellowing newspaper cuttings, photographs, signs and testimonies displayed. You are gently urged to write a comment in the visitors’ book before leaving.
The kids came away talking about their adventure and the fantastic cake. We adults found it an intensely moving, eerie and evocative experience.
Signed once you reach Dherinia, north of Paralimni in south east Cyprus.
Indian flights are very cheap and it's tempting. But if you have the time and the patience, Indian trains reward like no other journey.
The Indian train is a travelling village in itself. You will be sold to constantly. Some things you will want - chai in the moring, samosa in the evening - and some things you will not.
Despite the bad image of India as a hard-sell place, there's no obligation to buy and the seller will move on if you are not interested. The good bit is, you can do all your shopping in one journey, from bajee to clothing.
The trains are more than a kilometre long (which is truely awesome in itself), and are a lifeline to many Indians. And far more eco-friendly than flying.
Bon serve Fucha Ryori cuisine, a form of Zen vegetarian cooking originating in China but developed in Japan. Small delicate and beautiful dishes are served in measured succession, in a private room on Tatami mats. We had about 11 courses (we lost count).
The service was immaculate: serene, polite and friendly, quite unlike anything European, and the whole experience was calm and almost meditative.
The restaurant is tucked away down a back street of old Tokyo houses. Booking is required.
Ryusen 1-2-11, Taito-Ku, near Iriya station (Hiriya line). Phone 03 (3872) 0375. Do not rely on the map provided by the restaurant, which is inaccurate. Get someone to look it up for you in the Tokyo street atlas.
For a real treat, take a helicopter flight over Mt Cook with the Helicopter Line. The company have various flight options and most include a 'drop down' on to a snowfield for a short walk. You need good weather, but if it is sunny, the views are spectacular.
I am travelling around the world for a year and my first stop was Rio. I excitedly got chatting to some of my fellow travellers who challenged my misconceptions concerning the favela tour. A favela is like a shanty town on a mountain side, where the poorest people live, and I thought a tour meant staring at the streets from a tour bus, showcasing the locals in a horrible, vicarious way. My new friends informed me that it was actually a walking tour given by a local, and that the money we paid was used for improving the school and day centre.
The favela, Rocinha, had the welcoming atmosphere of real and honest people; innocent lives plagued with the volatility of the drug world. It was hard to believe that we were walking through streets that only four days earlier saw the killing of the top drug lord by police. In the three days to follow a further five people were killed as they fought over the prestigious position and the power it provided. The tours stopped during this time and this emphasised the danger and uncertainty with which these people lived.
Our guide, Luis, took us to the day centre where our money was to be used. Before Luis set up the organisation (www.bealocal.com), children went unfed for days and were forced to beg, three years later they are off the streets, given three meals a day and are taught various arts and crafts; they then sell their wares instead of begging.
Looking round Rocinha, I now feel I understand the people of Rio on a much deeper level; with a strong, unyielding community spirit, they share the difficult times and, slowly but surely, set out to improve their situation. The tour manages to obtain the perfect balance, between educating and spreading awareness and providing genuine benefit where it is needed most.
A definite must-do when visiting Rio, it will enlighten your life and provide a unique insight into a fascinating place.
Visit www.bealocal.com and book online, they will pick you up from your hostel/hotel and drop you off afterwards.
Now this attraction has been around for a while, the queues aren't as bad - if you have a few extra quid in your pocket, it's great for a first date before grabbing a bite, etc. Go early evening, especially this time of year, as the sun is going down. You'll nearly have a whole pod to yourself!
Right on the river behind Waterloo station. It stands in front of the Saatchi Museum & The London aquarium. (also worth visiting at all ages, great sharks)
Tokyo is famous for the cattle-truck like conditions on its commuter trains during the morning rush hour. You might even have heard the stories of white-gloved platform attendants pushing passengers in so the doors can close. It really has to be seen to be believed. Taking a rush-hour train is certainly not pleasant, but I recommend it because it's a memorable, intense experience. It's something that you can tell your friends about and something that will stay with you forever. It's also a genuine experience of modern Japan, giving you a window into thel lives of the millions of Japanese who commute to work by train every morning in Tokyo, and other major cities. If you suffer from claustrophobia or lose your temper easily, you might want to think twice about trying this, though.
My advice would be to take no prisoners and try to manoeuvre yourself into a positon in front of the seats where the crush is not quite so intense, then take in the sheer lunacy of it all (meanwhile sparing a thought for those people who do this every day of their working lives). Discretely take a few photos so you can convey the experience to your friends. If you don't fancy getting up close and personal with dozens of "salarymen" inside the train, then you can always just observe from the platform.
One tip I have is to avoid travelling with bulky luggage during the rush-hour periods, especially the morning, for obvious reasons.
The Yamanote line, which circles central Tokyo, or any of the lines which bring commuters into central Tokyo from the outlying suburbs and beyond.
This is one of the best things I did in Sydney, and it is exactly what it sounds like. A group of up to twelve climbers go up one side of the harbour bridge with a guide. There is a quick training session where you can experience the types of ladders, stairs and walkways that make up the bridge and you are also suited up with all the gear.
Then you go out and are attached to the railings on the bridge and climb. It is not too strenuous and the only time I was afraid was when I was on my way down in the dark and a train sped by me as I was on a ladder. Which was an experience in itself. The guides are fantastic and really know their stuff.
You are not allowed to bring a camera with you but there are many photo opportunities and then the pictures can be purchased for an outrageously over-priced $15 each. Loads of merchandise as well of course.
Get driven up to the mountains behind the city to a launch site. After a short training session run down the side of a hill then witness breathtaking views of the city before landing on the beach.
Leaflets available in hotels/hostels, you get picked up from your accommodation then dropped off afterwards.
Classy restaurant in the style of El Bulli (Spain), or WD-50 (New York). Very good food, quirky combinations but all delicious. Food has a Catalan-touch to it, but the staff are incredibly slick while being really friendly and can advise in English, too. They also offer tasting menus from four to seven courses. Excellent place, a must for "foodies" or anyone who is sick of sausage and potatoes!
Grosse Hamburger Strasse 32
www.restaurant-remake.de
Nearest stations: S-Bahn Oranienburger strasse or Hackesher Markt
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