http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27586 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/27586 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23932
Gozo is airport-free, rural, quiet and slow compared to the manic desire Maltese holidaymakers seem to have for entertainment. You will find plenty of great places to eat and many deals on converted, self-catering farmhouses. Wonderful sea swimming and diving, bustling markets (if you can't resist a crowd) and fine sites and views, especially from the citadel in the capital, Rabat.

Small journey; big difference.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23932 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23930
The Passage is mesmerising, the longest such stretch of protected fjords, thick forest, and myriad islands in the world. And to sail it by ferry, with whales for company in the water, and locals to spend hours chatting with up on deck, stopping off at small settlements as you go, is simply the best way to experience southern Alaska in its rugged finery. If you are young enough you might even try braving nights in a sleeping bag up on deck.

Magical.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23930 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23929
I have spent many happy holidays on the Isle of Wight and think that it has to be one of the most under-rated places around. There is lots to do and see. From the Zoo to the Needles, the model village or just sitting having a quiet drink in one of the many pubs and watching all the yachts go sailing by. The ferry journey is only a relatively short trip, but it gets the holiday off to a relaxing start.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23929 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23925 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23925 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23918
The scene that greeted us in Tunis could not be further from the quiet life of Sicily: the hustle and bustle of street markets lining the pavements, lively malouf music and the smell of burning incense and fragrant spices drifting in through the car windows... this ferry ride to the other side of the Mediterranean might just as well be to the other side of the world!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23918 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23917
Dolphins may be seen as you cross the Minch. Try the peaceful and quietly swanky Observation Lounge if the deck's too blustery.

If you manage to catch an early ferry, why not book a sea-kayaking lesson from Uist Outdoor Centre in the afternoon - you can explore the tiny islands in the harbour at Lochmaddy spotting otters, birds and seals then surf back to the centre on the next ferry's wake.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23917 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23912 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23912 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23911 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23911 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23910
We went in the off-season and it was still a fantastic journey. We walked down from our B&B to a tiny cover and watched the water crash on the shore. Arriving back at the B&B to a home-cooked meal every evening was fantastic and so very much appreciated. But the journey back on the ferry is what I'll really remember.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23910 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23906 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23906 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23903
However, it is a wonderful journey. There is a restaurant inside the ferry and you can sit on the deck and breathe the sea air as you whizz past the spectacular coastline of South East Cornwall, including St. Michael's Mount, Landsend and (you can just about make it out) the legendary Minack Theatre. The Isles are a glorious sight to behold and it is a journey I will never forget.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23903 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23901
The round trip is a couple of hours and there are enough ferries to allow you to sample all the islands in a single day, but equally there is accommodation on all the islands if you wish to extend your visit.

The tiny island of Levanzo hosts the cave of the Genoese with its pre-historic paintings. Favignana is known for its butterflies, grottoes, beaches, bays and tuna fishing – and don’t miss the local restaurant speciality of spaghetti and tuna botargo at the La Bettola restaurant in the port. The final island on the route is Marettimo, with its whitewashed, colourfully shuttered homes, ports filled with fishing boats and unbelievably blue water.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23901 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23899
There are four-person couchettes, but there's something really romantic about proper sleepers, and a two person compartment (single bunks with proper sheets, plus complementary toiletries, mineral water, coffee...) - costs just €75 pp. If you want something more luxurious you can have a double bed compartment with ensuite shower etc for €140 pp.

The air conditioned train then follows the coast, through Taormina, and arrives in Siracusa at about 10 am. We love going to bed and waking up 500 miles away, right where we want to be - it's a great way to unwind at the start of a holiday.

Italian night trains are all good value, but the crossing - and the destination - makes this one the best.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23899 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23871 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23871 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23853 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23853 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23850
You can leave from Algeciras, an enormous, industrial port with an expensive car park, or drive a little further round the coast and use the more low-key port of Tarifa, which also has a free car park right by the ferry terminal.

Don’t forget the Moroccan time difference when catching the return boat, and also, make sure you get your immigration forms stamped on board before arriving.

The ferry is often rammed full of travellers returning from harvesting jobs in Europe, and a bag of sweets to share with curious children is a real ice breaker (a pack of Polos was shared between dozens of families).

You get great views of the Rock of Gibraltar and usually there are dolphins accompanying the ferries. In Tangiers, you can hire a guide for about 25 euros and experience the Kasbah and the markets for a few hours- a rowdy, colourful jumble - and try some of the unusual food and drink before returning to Europe… which will now seem grey and homogenous!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23850 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23848
There's a long stop and much loading and unloading at Bodo as it's the end of the rail line from Oslo (on which I travelled) so most grades of accommodation, including B&B, are not difficult to find there.

Like most ferry crossings a fine day helps. Views of distant island peaks 40 miles away stretch half way across the northern horizon soon after leaving port. It's also a two-hour journey open to the Atlantic, so it can be rough. For me it was calm and sunny.

The peaks of the Lofoten Islands became more distinct, more jagged, more enticing, 1000 metre peaks touched with snow here and there, as the ship plods towards them. By half-way across they are a child's picture book of fairy tale mountains surrounded by sea of many shades and hues spanning the horizon and with hints of the bright yellows and reds of the traditional fishing villages just visible along the shore. Everyone's on deck to savour the view.

Alas Stamsund arrives all too soon. Alas as not only is it this journey's end (the ship continues its equally spectacular route through the islands eastwards), but it's not much of a place either. It has a youth hostel and a hotel, but is mainly a small working port. However, a bus service connects it to the rest of the Lofotens for those who want to adventure further.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23848 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23844
We arrived on foot at Palermo dock gates, enquiring where to go, and were whisked away by minibus to the ticket office. The minibus waited to take us to the ship - it was a really friendly, personal service.

The ferry was modern and well-equipped, with decent food. One of the highlights was the evening entertainment in the bar - the pianist played requests and a succession of Italians (mainly lorry drivers I reckon) played at being Pavarotti. It was fab and you did get the feeling it was a regular thing.

In the morning we had the pleasure of arriving in the Bay of Naples with Vesuvius looming in the background. The only slight problem came when we got off the boat and the only shop selling bus tickets to the station didn't open for a couple of hours, so we had to invest in a taxi; a small price to pay.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23844