Make an effort to see a Berber market outside the big cities of Fes and Marrakech and get away from touts and tourists, while soaking up more of Morocco's great countryside and culture.

30km away from Fes is Sefrou (take a shared 'grand taxi' from Bab Ftouh), where Berbers come from outlying areas to ply their wares at the Thursday souq.

The same distance away from Marrakech, lies the town of Ourika (Dar Caid Ourika) which comes alive on Monday with everything from Berber haircuts to giant haystacks for sale. You can take a bus from behind the tourist police in Marrakech.

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In Morocco, we booked our daytrips and tours in Fes with Yomikha Morocco. They are an incredibly cool company based in Fes and operated by an Australian and Moroccan joint venture. These guys are full of integrity - no carpet selling - and true destination experts, as they understand the culture, people, and the language. We enjoyed Western standards with Moroccan understanding. It was totally rad. Our trip to Meknes and Volubilis was hassle-free and then we did a sahara trek starting out in Fes, so we avoided what a lot of travellers told us were aggressive rip-offs and touts in Merzouga. In our group were a number of solo women travellers and they told us about the horrors of going it alone in Morocco. We were glad to be on such a stress-free trip.

www.yomikhamorocco.com/contact/

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