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Without doubt one of the best cycling tours I've ever done. With the help of the Midi-Pyrenees Tourist Board www.tourism-midi-pyrenees.co.uk (which has dedicated cycling section) I arranged a tour gastronomique of excellent gastronomic chambres d'hotes in the midi-pyrenees. Designed as a four day car tour, we stretched it to a seven day cycling tour. The tourist board booked the chambres d'hotes and we took 'pot luck' in the days in between, sauntering, meandering and discovering the sights as we went, which meant we had plenty of time to get to the next destination. Epic scenery, gloriously quiet roads, beautiful historic cities and magnificent food enjoyed without guilt, as the calorie usage was so high. The website now has a section on Michelin chefs in the area so you could plan your trip around their restaurants, but to be honest the local workaday restaurants were sublime anyway. Truly a "cyclists' eldorado". Even cycling in and out of Toulouse airport was OK, though we arrived and left on a Sunday.
www.tourism-midi-pyrenees.co.uk have good English - speaking assistance for booking and advice.
Best paella I have ever had in Madrid. They bring the ingredients every day from the coast and the seafood is fantastic.
The rice needs to be shared (it's for two people and the shellfish paella is about £17/person), if you order a paella they will bring to the table the paella special pan and they will serve you directly from the pan.
The restaurant is located in Huertas street, a beautiful area to walk around and discover the history of Madrid.
www.elcaldero.com/
Calle de Las Huertas, 15, 28012 Madrid, Spain
+34 914 29 50 44
Google map: bit.ly/1akw9HF
* Esther is our Been there local for Madrid. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/madrid-local-esther-almena.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/madridsensations.jsp
Get off the main streets and go to this hidden gem of a restaurant less than 5 minutes from Odenplan. Wonderful pizza and pasta, but try the house special beef stew for a real lunchtime treat.
www.hagadeli.com/
Hagagatan 18, 113 48, Stockholm
+46(0)8 31 96 95
Google map: bit.ly/ZL6CTC
Barcelona has a well-documented tourist trail marking out the must see highlights of the city. However there’s an abundance of interesting places in the city that visitors aren’t made aware such as the Spanish Civil War bunkers or the open-air cinema in the mountain. Here’s a round up of Barcelona’s best-hidden gems worth checking out.
El Refugi 307:
This 400-metre tunnel offers a rare experience to understand what the living conditions were like during the Spanish Civil War. Based in Poble Sec this two metre underground tunnel is where people had to live during the war for protection from the bombings. There were thousands of similar tunnels built throughout Barcelona. This particular tunnel is now part of the Museu d’Historia de la Ciutat, a project devoted to restoring and teaching the history of the city. Inside of El Refugi 307 it’s possible to see the different rooms and to walk the full length of the tunnel. Visits are assisted by a guided tour and it’s highly recommended to book tickets in advance.
Palo Alto:
This Poble Nou based industrial complex was established in 1875 by businessmen Ramon Gal and Joan Puigsech and it was designed my Antoni Vila i Bruguera. In the 1970s it was reconverted in to light creative studios. Its been used for film sets, artists work space and events and currently there’re twenty different creative companies using the space. Visitors can enjoy wandering through the beautiful gardens and have lunch at the Cantina restaurant.
Poble Nou Park:
Near by to Palo Alto lies this eco-friendly park, which was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel in 2008. Nouvel’s aim was to create a winter sunshine spot. As the park is eco-friendly weeping willow trees have been utilised to absorb water and there is an irrigation system that collects ground water. There are two islands in the park and the old factory of Oliva Artés dwells on one of them. The gardens are made up of herbs, shrubbery and interesting architecture. Another part of the park is made up of purple plants and a crater that points towards the centre of the earth and connects with Guayaquil in Ecuador.
Sala Montjuic Open Air Cinema:
This is a great spot for film lovers. It’s open annually from 4th July until 5th August on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays and is set within the walls of Montjuic Castle. There is live music before film begins. The films are classics and shown in the original versions with subtitles. Most people take a picnic, which can be enjoyed on the hill where there are magnificent views of Barcelona.
El Refugi 307
Address: Carrer Nou de la Rambla, 169
Phone: 932 562 100
Metro: Paral·lel
Palo Alto
Address: Carrer Pellaires 30-38
Phone: 933 070 974
Website: www.paloaltobcn.org
Metro: at Selva de Mar.
Poble Nou Park
Address: Avinguda Diagonal, 130
Metro: Poble Nou
Sala Montjuic Open Air Cinema
Address: Carretera de Montjuic, 66
Web: www.salamontjuic.org
* Hatty is our Been there local for Barcelona. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/barcelona-local-hatty-copeman.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/barcahiddencorners.jsp
Carrer d'Enric Granados is a beautiful, semi- pedestrianised street in the heart of Eixample, just a hop and a skip from Passeig de Gracia and Rambla Catalunya. The street is named after the Catalan pianist and composer Enric Granados who was born in Lleida in 1867. This cultural reference laid the groundwork for what was to come as the street now has an abundance of art galleries, restaurants, cafes and boutiques.
Most tourists are largely unaware of the marvels that this street has to offer however it’s one of the most wonderful spots in Barcelona. The leafy avenue has a much needed laid back vibe, offering an oasis away from the hustle and bustle of the city. Besides the little park based at the south end of the street there are also benches scattered throughout Enric Granados and outdoor seating in most cafés and restaurants, which offer the perfect antidote to unwind without disturbance.
Among Carrer d'Enric Granados’ offerings is the café/ gallery Cosmo, which is based at number 3 in the lower part of the street. Cosmo is the epitome of its bohemian surroundings and is a fantastic place to go and relax with a coffee whilst enjoying the art on display. In addition this contemporary café has a great selection of snacks and beverages available.
A little bit up the street at number 5 is Norman Vilalta, the Argentinian shoemaker, who creates beautiful, tailored leather shoes from his artisanal workshop. Vilalta uses high quality materials that are reflected in the prices.
At number 9 is the Ego Gallery, a modern art and photography space, which displays an array of reputable work. Many of the artists are international photographers and painters.
Further up the Enric Granados at number 24 is the butchers Deli Argentino. This popular and well-thought-of butchers sells good quality Argentinian meat, empanadas, deserts and wine.
For the film boffins out there be sure to check out Video Club, the first vintage video shop to open in Barcelona. Located at number 30, the shop has a library of over 50,000 films mostly available on DVD. The majority of the films are old flicks although recent releases are also obtainable.
Another Argentinian spot on the street that’s definitely worth checking out is Hábaluc. Based at number 41 this popular restaurant serves a mean burger and other tasty Argentinian dishes and a selection of fresh fish.
Nearby at number 44 is L'appartement, which is perfect for those looking for well-sourced, unique interiors. The boutique’s beautiful furnishings range from furniture to wall decorations and other bits and bobs for the house.
For the art lovers head just a couple of doors up to Galería AND, an outstanding art gallery, based at number 49. The gallery exhibits up-and-coming, modern art from local artists.
For the carnivores El Filete Ruso based at number 95, is a must. This gourmet restaurant serves delicious hamburgers, with the specialty on the menu being the filete ruso, which is a homemade, thin burger, packed full of aromatic scrumptiousness.
Alternatively for pizza Enric Granados has one of the best pizzerias in town: Solo Pizza, the family run restaurant, located at number 108. This Italian eatery, which has a fantastic reputation, only serves pizza. The same family also own the next-door joint aptly named No Solo Pizza as it serves everything apart from pizza.
For those with a sweet tooth head further up the road to number 145 where Cup & Cake is based. This bakery is a newer addition to Enric Granados and the sight of the mouth-watering delicacies on display will lure you in quickly. The multi-coloured, liberally iced cupcakes are the specialty and there is also fresh fruitcakes and bread to choose from.
Carrer Enric Granados, 83, 08008 Barcelona, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/1bv9w0Z
Nearest station: Diagonal or Universitat
* Hatty is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/barcelona-local-hatty-copeman.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/barcahiddencorners.jsp
The old port of Lagos has historic buildings, beaches, surfing, nightlife and superb camping at the spotless Turiscampo (from €18 for two). For a world-class walk head out west atop golden-ochre cliffs. Refuel on tasty authentic chicken piri-piri (€5) at Churrasqueira Praça D’Armas. Visit the Sixties at the hippy market (free, of course). And for €3.80 the Sagres bus will take you to the south-west tip of Europe – once the end of the Roman world where the sun was believed to drop hissing into the sea.
Getting to Lagos
If you can travel off-peak and book well ahead there are sometimes really cheap UK - Faro flights.
The Faro - Lagos leg is well served by trains, buses and shuttle minibus services (bookable online). The shuttle services have dependable pickups to fit in with the very early and very late times of the cheapest flights. They will happily drop off and pick up from all over.
Accommodation
Camping
Turiscampo is one of the best larger campsites we have ever camped on. The cleaning of the facilities never stops. There’s a large pool, children’s pool, shaded poolside, small supermarket, bar and good restaurant. There are also chalets to rent if you don’t want to fly with a tent. English is spoken at reception.
www.turiscampo.com/en/
Hostel
Stumble Inn – we haven’t stayed here but I had it recommended to me as a hostel option; there’s other hostels as well.
www.stumbleinnlagos.com/
Hotel
Casa da Moura - if you want somewhere different, this is it. The front is non-descript, faded, dull. The heavy door opens into a magical semi-dark wood and tiled interior reflecting the north African history of the area (The name means Moor’s House). Little floor candles light your way upstairs to your room. Go for the rear rooms as these have balconies large enough for sun-bathing in the afternoon and nice views of the ancient city walls and houses. If you’re at the front there’s still a beautiful sheltered courtyard with a gorgeous pool. Rooms are cool, large and comfortable, ours had cooking facilities but don’t miss the breakfast. It is outstanding. It is served in a permanent gazebo-thing covering about half of the sizeable roof area - with views all around Lagos and out over the ocean. I counted over seventy breakfast choices, including your choice of cooked breakfasts. All this was on offer when there were just two of us eating. I popped up again in the afternoon, thinking much of it would have been left out for the next morning. Everything had been cleared away and so would all be laid out again very early the next morning. Not budget, but worth knowing about if you want somewhere special one day.
www.casadamoura.com/_en/index.htm
Eating
Churrasqueira Praça D’Armas
Praça D’Armas is a small old square about three minutes walk from the central square, heading out the opposite way from the former slave market. It’s close to one of the gates to the old town walls. Churrasqueira kind of translates as barbecue. This is off the tourist radar, no-frills, 100% Portuguese food enjoyed by the local people. The speciality is grilled chicken with proper Portuguese piri-piri sauce. This is probably the best value food in town.
Praça João God 21
Lagos 8600-523
Phone: +351 282 768 116
The Green Room
In the centre of town, look out for the surfboard in the window, Run by a Kiwi, the little kitchen produces fresh Mexican food served up in a chilled, laid back atmosphere. Good for a drink, chilling out to good music, or filling-up without spending too much.
44 Rua de Oliveria,
Lagos 8600
Phone +351 913 127 510
We enjoyed a delicious lunch here on the patio under the shade of wonderful lush banana trees! Service was friendly and efficient. Lovely fresh juices and so peaceful and calm.
www.lejardin.ma
32, Souk El Jeld, Sidi Abdelaziz, Marrakech Medina
+212 524 378 295
Fresh, locally sourced ingredients combined with hand-made Italian cuisine, a small but perfectly formed menu, good design, friendly staff and reasonable prices. This restaurant has been fully booked most nights since it opened over Christmas 2012. The location by Bullock Creek is charming. Highly recommended for lunch or dinner if you happen to be staying in Wanaka.
93 Ardmore Street Wanaka (down the side by the creek)
Phone +64(0)3 443 5599
Facebook https://www.facebook.com/pages/Francescas-Italian-Kitchen/492424470790647
Google map: bit.ly/11AXRrz
For those whose holiday success is dependent on the holy trinity of amazing food, good wine and heartwarming scenery, head for the Langhe area of Piemonte where all three are world class yet affordable pleasures. Accommodation is plentiful and good value, the landscape is a delight, and when Barolo wine, Alba truffles and Gianduia are standard fare even in the simplest trattoria - or available locally at direct-from-producer prices - all seems right with the world.
The official Piemonte tourist information website has suggestions for themed itineries, accommodation listings and details of good places to buy and eat the delicious local produce www.piemonteitalia.eu/en
Bra Cheese festival and Slow Food event: www.cheese.slowfood.it
Alba truffle festival: www.fieradeltartufo.org
Torino chocolate festival: www.cioccola-to.it
This little gem is not far from the main square in Bruges right across Hotel Navarra we've stayed in! Husband and wife taking care of their business in a professional way, delicious food and more than reasonable prices for an expensive Bruges. This Portuguese-Flemish restaurant serves as well fish as meat dishes. I've probably had the best filet mignon steak in my life.
www.portoromano.be/
Sint Jakobsstraat 50, 8000 Brugge
+32(0)479406616
Google map: bit.ly/13iaxqd
Situated on a wine estate overlooking the Baie de Paulilles, Le Clos de Paulilles epitomises classic but informal French dining. Each course from the farm's one fixed menu is accompanied by a different type of their own wine. As you feast on the (very) local produce, watch the evening sun set over the Pyrenees.
Walk off the indulgences of the evening with a stroll along the adjacent beach.
www.clos-de-paulilles.com/
Paulilles 66660 Port-Vendres, France
+33 9 62 12 80 19
Google map: bit.ly/12O55uK
La Randoulina is a great slow food restaurant in the Staura valley west of Cuneo in Piemonte.
There is no menu, or prices, but they ask for your preference of fish or meat, or if you're vegetarian. And then start bringing food to your table. Delicious local food - boar pate, steak tartar, aubergine tart, fish vol au vent just for your starters. The menu changes according to the season.
The bill came to around 40 euros for one including a great bottle of Nebbiolo d'Alba. I think the set menu is 25 euros. Not dirt cheap, but very good value for a seven or eight course meal. Unfortunately the website is only in Italian and fails to do justice to the food. Just trust me!
www.larandoulina.com/index.htm
Via Gena 12, 12014 Demonte, Piemonte
La Randoulina is a great slow food restaurant in the Staura valley west of Cuneo in Piemonte.
There is no menu, or prices, but they ask for your preference of fish or meat, or if you're vegetarian. And then start bringing food to your table. Delicious local food - boar pate, steak tartar, aubergine tart, fish vol au vent just for your starters. The menu changes according to the season.
The bill came to around 40 euros for one including a great bottle of Nebbiolo d'Alba. I think the set menu is 25 euros. Not dirt cheap, but very good value for a seven or eight course meal. Unfortunately the website is only in Italian and fails to do justice to the food. Just trust me!
www.larandoulina.com/index.htm
Via Gena 12, 12014 Demonte, Piemonte
+39 (0)171955737
The trattoria is cheap, it's full of locals, it's boisterous, and friendly. They give you a massive caraffe of wine and sort of estimate how much you've drunk (it's about €1.50 per glass). They all wanted to talk to my toddler. A chap from a market stall walked by carrying a pig's carcass, and stopped to shout over to his friend, who was serving my panzanella. No one spoke English, no one minded that our Italian was awful, and it was just such a great atmosphere.
The trattoria is within the market, and after lunch we bought the best fruit and veg we found in the city, and some great prepared meat, and some top pecorino. The market is so much better than Mercato Centrale, which is basically just for tourists and sells awful fruit (we actually had to throw away the strawberries and peaches we bought there). And if you don't want the trattoria then Semolina, a very good pizzeria, is just outside, and just down the road is Sancho Panza, another great pizza place.
It's in the Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 10-15 minutes walk east from the Duomo.
Google map: bit.ly/13hSdgZ
It's here:
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?ie=UTF8&cid=3384849024654938165&q=I%27+Trippaio+Di+Sant%27Ambrogio&iwloc=A&gl=GB&hl=en
It's on TripAdvisor too: www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g187895-d195019-Reviews-Sant_Ambrogio-Florence_Tuscany.html
Bussana Vecchia is a sun-drenched hilltop village that was devastated by an earthquake in the 1800s and brought back to life by a colony of artists who settled here in 1960s.
It has a unique hippie charm, stunning architecture and artist ateliers. The slow pace of Bussana Vecchia is a dream come true for any traveller who wants to experience something unique while visiting the Italian Riviera, without breaking the bank.
Go there now, and you may be able to check out - for free, however offers are appreciated - one of the largest railroad models in Italy, with hundreds of metres of tracks winding through tiny stations, fly-overs and mountains. Truly spectacular. To find it ask locals for the "plastico ferroviario", or follow the signs if you are lucky enough to find them.
There are also a couple of B&Bs in town, with rooms starting from €70. Drive down the hill and you will find some of the best beaches in the area, some of them with free access.
If you work up an appetite after exploring medieval alleys and church ruins, head for the Relax Cafè - when my friends and I sat down during a recent visit and ordered a glass of local white wine, we were brought an entire bottle. Afraid we were getting ripped off, we mentioned that it was only one glass we were after, and the woman serving us said: "Didn't you read outside? This is an experiment we are running. You pay with a free offer. If you want a glass you drink a glass, if you want a bottle you drink a bottle. You can give whatever you want, even just one euro!" I thought about the cost of living in London, and had to restrain myself from crying of happiness in front of everyone. My friends too were barely able to mask their surprise.
Have I mentioned you also get delicious pizza straight from the wood oven? (Which you can also make yourself, if you like). How about the stunning views over the Ligurian hills? Sounds too good to be true? Well go to Bussana Vecchia and see for yourself.
Driving or walking are your only two options. From Sanremo (or San Remo - not even locals are sure), head east towards Arma di Taggia and make a left, following signs to Bussana. Once past the "modern" village, keep driving up the hill towards Bussana Vecchia. Park your car wherever you can (the road is a dead end, and make sure you are good at driving on narrow roads), and walk into the village. At the entrance of the village, you'll find the Osteria degli Artisti. Turn right and walk up the hill for a couple of minutes until you reach a little square with a tiny church that has no roof anymore. Entrance to the Relax Cafe is there.
Google map: bit.ly/13YfO8E
I found this place while staying at the hotel next door. I popped in to sit at the bar for a prosecco and a huge plate of food arrived in front of me. I tried to send it back, but it turned out to be a complimentary bar snack! I knew this was an early evening custom in Venice, to give free snacks with a drink, but this was brushcetta, battered sweet peppers, grilled cheese ... Although I suspect it is the Italian equivalent of Pizza Express, it meant I ate for free each evening. You have to be sat at the bar, not in the restaurant and you will likely get your plate refilled with each drink. I refused a refill at first, only to be be answered with a shrug and a quizzical "But lady - it's free!" from the barman.
Calle Larga, 404, 30124 Venezia, Italy
+39 041 243 9951
Google map: bit.ly/12Lqyoc
The Coal Shed is an absolutely fantastic restaurant which specialises in meat and fish. It's about five minutes from the train station, and seconds from the beach, tucked away from tourists on a private road.
It frequently gets rave reviews, and it's clear why - their delicious menu has something for everyone, from a good old fashioned burger (called "incredible" by Source magazine) to cuttlefish in an ink vinaigrette!
They also have one of the only Josper ovens in the UK, so their steaks are amazing - perfectly cooked and melt-in-the-mouth.
The only downside is that it can get really busy in the evening, but as it's much quieter at lunch, you're far more likely to get a table then.
Highly recommended!
www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk
8 Boyces Street, Brighton, BN1 1AN
+44(0)1273 322 998
Google map: bit.ly/1120a74
The main ingredient of Czech food, I’ve heard it said, is cholesterol. Hearty fare is the polite way to sum up this ribsticking stodge, comprising typically of meat and dumplings sans vegetables of any kind.
There are places in Prague where you can eat food with a touch more flair – and it needn’t cost the earth. Located a one minute walk from Hradčanska metro station (and therefore around fifteen minutes from Prague Castle on foot), Argument is a restaurant which can’t easily be pigeonholed. It’s upmarket without being pretentious; modern without resembling an airport lounge.
I went for the degustation menu – six small courses which allow you to sample the best of what the restaurant has to offer. The tiger prawns were tasty – I wasn’t brave enough to try sweetbreads but the grilled octopus was delicious. Best of all was course number five – roast duck with ginger – which was so tender it almost melted in the mouth.
While certainly beyond the budget of the average backpacker, Argument is worth a visit if you’d like to treat yourself to quality cuisine without completely breaking the bank.
www.argument-restaurant.cz/uvodni-strana/
Bubenečská 19, Prague 6
+420220 510 427
Google map: bit.ly/10pdqab
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
Cafe and coffee lounge. Great coffee, wonderful cakes and a very inventive and stylish meal menu.
12-14 Rochdale Road, Royton, Oldham, England
+44(0)1616335818
Google map: bit.ly/10iTHZI
This tiny bakery tucked away at the back of Feria Market (on Calle Feria) does the best bread I've tasted in a while. You can get organic molletes (Andalucian bread rolls) for just 50 cents - white or wholemeal - a decent-sized ciabatta for just €1, and great baguettes too. If you're lucky your bread will come straight out of the oven that sits just behind the counter. Impossible to wait till you get home to tuck in!
elrinconorganico.wordpress.com/
Mercado de la Calle Feria, Calle Feria, 41003 Sevilla
Google map: bit.ly/12JeZzm
* Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsfield
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