- food
- (2537)
-
Isola dei Pescatori (the Isle of the Fishermen) on Lake Maggiore is strung out like an extended teardrop in the wake of the Baroque battleship of Isola Bella. Its attractive informality is a breath of fresh air after the formal gardens that almost choke the larger island.
Head for the Belvedere restaurant on its northern shore, where the more formal seafront gives way to gardens and terraces – of which, the Belvedere has just about the best, with a spacious veranda overlooking the lake. We arrived unannounced in a sizeable party late in the afternoon, but were swiftly made to feel welcome and served a sumptuous feast at the terrace’s grandest table. ‘Fish from the lake’ is their disarmingly simple pitch, but the mixed pickle lake fish is an eye-opener of a dish.
www.belvedere-isolapescatori.it
Via di Mezzo, Isola Pescatori, 28838 Stresa (VB)
+39(0)328 2185706
We discovered Agli Angeli in 2005 and have made it a must visit each time we return to Lake Garda. This gem of a family run restaurant and hotel is perfectly located in the romantic picturesque village streets above Gardone Riviera on the west shore of Lake Garda. Combine fine dining in a friendly local atmosphere with a visit to the adjacent Vittoriale Degli Italiani, the home and spectacular gardens of controversial poet and eccentric Gabriele D'Annunzio, or alternatively stay in one of the seven beautiful individual rooms within the main house or in the adjacent dependance and use as a base for exploring the Lake. There are a couple of suites within the house which can accommodate up to four people and also a pool to relax by.
www.agliangeli.biz
Via Dosso 7, Gardone Riviera, Lake Garda
+39(0)365 20991
The westernmost of the major lakes, Orta is a (relatively) undiscovered gem. Car free, the town's steep and narrow cobbled streets create an entrancing atmosphere. The lake itself contains the serene Isola San Giulio, dominated by an exquisite medieval basilica. Multiple excellent restaurants are situated on the main square overlooking the lake - a personal favourite was Leon d'Oro. Scrumptious local food served in the most delightful of settings; the best recommendation is that we returned twice!
www.orta.net/leondoro/gb_pagina.htm
Piazza Motta, 42, 28016 Orta S. Giulio (No) Italy
+39(0)322 911991
Google map: bit.ly/LUSNLP
Lovely coffee shop on the main drag in Morzine that serves something very rare in France - iced coffee with caramel syrup in a big glass mug. Free wi-fi, muffins, bagels and a cosy atmosphere. If you're craving a large coffee and a place to chill on a comfy sofa, this is it.
Owner Mel is super friendly and keen to make you feel at home.
152 Rue de Bourg, 74110 Morzine
+33(0)9 66 84 23 36
Google map: bit.ly/M3wKAL
The highlight (and without doubt the biggest bargain) of our recent visit to Lake Como was a brilliant cookery lesson at ristorante Il Caminetto in the tiny village of Gittana (about 3km up a windy mountain road from the beautiful lakeside town of Varenna).
This traditional restaurant has been run by the owner Moreno's family for nine generations and he has a fantastic passion for food which shines through in his cookery classes.
The five-hour lesson is a combination of cooking demonstration and hands on learning. We made our own pasta (both tagliatelle and tortelloni), we ate lots (the aformentioned pasta, a stunning mushroom and apple risotto, local salami and gran padano cheese), we drank lots (Moreno ensures the wine keeps flowing), we listened to Moreno's fascinating stories, and we met new friends. All of this for the bargain price of 45 Euros!!
Then there's Moreno and his wife Rosella's beautiful neigbouring B&B (Ca'noeva) with unbelievable views of lake Como for just 65 Euros a night (which is almost unheard of in Lake Como), and their generous hospitality in providing us with unlimited free drop-offs and pick-ups in Varenna, and their fantastic recommendations of local castles and friends restaurants to visit. The list goes on...
Who needs expensive lakeside hotels and fine dining, when you can have a much more memorable experience for a fraction of the price!
www.ilcaminettoonline.com
viale Progresso 4 - 23828 Gittana di Perledo
+39 0341 815225
Nearest train station: Varenna
Google map; bit.ly/NcTNJb
If you are going to, or passing through, Milan make time to get the train to Como (just over an hour) and then the slow ferry to Bellagio. Perch yourself by ancient cobbled streets at the Trattoria San Giacomo and feast on freshly made pasta washed down with exquisite local Bardolino wine. Heaven.
www.trattoriabellagio.it/
Salita Serbelloni, 45 22021 Bellagio Province of Como, Italy
+39(0)31 950329
Google map: bit.ly/NURWaX
Beginning July 12 until August 30, 2012, a variety of restaurants – American, Mexican, Peruvian and Thai, among others – will serve food at Nathan Phillips Square for $7 CDN or less.
Located in front of Toronto City Hall, join Torontonians as they leave their office towers for the lunch hour to grab items such as pulled pork sandwiches, empanadas, oysters, jerk chicken – you get the idea – all while taking in free live music featuring Canadian artists playing music from around the world.
How to get there: Take the subway to Queen (Yonge line) or Osgoode (University line) and walk on Queen St.
www.toronto.ca/special_events/thursdays/2012/
100 Queen Street West
Google map: bit.ly/LI6yPV
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
Like most Toronto foodies, I look forward to Summerlicious, a celebration spotlighting some of Toronto's best restaurants, where you can sample a wide variety of original and delicious cuisine through three-course prix fixe menus. Available at over 180 of Toronto's restaurants, like its counterpart, Winterlicious, this event offers very large discounts from the usual pricing, with lunch ranging from $15, $20 or $30 and dinner for $25, $35, and $45.
Summerlicious runs from July Friday, July 6 until Sunday, July 22.
Several new restaurants this year are sure to draw a crowd, especially Colborne Lane, www.colbornelane.com and La Societe, www.lasociete.ca, both great spots for food and value.
There is usually a mad rush to secure reservations, especially in the evenings, so call soon.
To review the list of restaurants, menus, and their locations, and then book online, click the link: www.dine.to/toronto_summerlicious_restaurants.php
* Giulia is our Been there local for Toronto. You can see her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/places/canada/toronto/index.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/GiuliaFalsetti
Sardinia has a bit of a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous, but don’t let this put you off. Head for Alghero - fly into its airport and it’s only a euro to take the bus into town. It might not be one of the more glamorous spots on Sardinia but it has a delightful old town with well preserved bastions, excellent restaurants specialising in seafood and plenty of places to sit with a cocktail watching the sun go down. There is a working harbour and port and the town is not reliant on tourism, although it does get busy in July and August. An excellent large gently shelving sandy beach stretches the length of the bay, making it an excellent choice for families.
North west coast of Sardinia
Google map: bit.ly/QgnVWe
Castelsardo is a picturesque historic town on the northern coast of Sardinia. Perched on a volcanic headland, the old town, fortified with a castle, is an interesting and enchanting place to visit. After visiting the citadel, explore the neatly packed and atmospheric streets of Castelsardo's medieval quarters. Better still stay over a night or two (any of the B&B's nestled within the castle walls would be ideal - Smorfiosa & Calarina next to the Cathedral was charming), and see the town at its best in the evening when restaurants and cafes set up tables among the stairways and doorways (the pick being La Cisterne Wine Bar - more than just a wine bar with the best food we ate in Sardinia.)
La Cisterne:
vicolo auria 07031 Castelsardo Province of Sassari, Italy
+39(0)79 470605
Google map: bit.ly/MyE7iL
Smorfiosa & Calarina:
www.bb-smorfiosaecalarina.it/
+393478612095
Google map:
Avoid the usual celeb haunts and head out to the north western coast of Sardinia. We stayed in a gorgeous agriturismo set in the hills of the picturesque and unspoilt town of Bosa. Amazing beaches, beautiful town centre, great food and lovely friendly locals - it is everything you imagine Italy to be right down to the buildings the shades of ice-cream! Heaven!
www.locandailmelograno.com/home_eng.htm
Localita Tiria, 1 08013, Bosa
+39 339 469 7178
Google map: bit.ly/NvzAwV
Has a great view, sits up a hill - it's the Cotwolds bar you were looking for and does an inclusive (with accommodation) English breakfast. I slept from midnight to 9.30am.
It's run by a couple trying to make a go of it who bought it eight months ago.)
www.theamberleyinn.co.uk/
Culver Hill Stroud, Gloucestershire GL5 5AF
+44(0)1453 872565
Google map: bit.ly/Mj2h4k
A lovely restaurant situated on the stunning coastal road that runs from Cagliari to Villasimius. Quirky features, like old bikes decorating the garden, a relaxed atmosphere, and a wide choice of mains, starters and desserts - even five or six vegetarian meals, which was a rarity in the region! The owner made us feel very welcomed, often coming over to chat and even offering to make us up some lunch himself when we turned up out of hours (it shut during the late afternoon). Prices were reasonable, about 10 euros for a main, and the quality far surpassed the other restaurants in the area charging similar prices. We liked it here so much we returned three or four times! I would fully recommend an evening or lunch spent here, sat in the garden looking out to the hills opposite, ideally with their pesto gnocci ordered (which is still the best gnocci I've ever had.)
Cafe Van Gogh, Località Baccu Mandara, 09040 Maracalagonis Cagliari, Italy
+39 070 786082
Google map: bit.ly/MRdcwH
This is the real tapas experience and tremendous fun. Great atmosphere and very friendly guys behind the bar and cooking the tapas. Each time you order a beer (a cana of approx 33cl draught Alhambra poured expertly) a shout goes up and a few minutes later a hot tapa plate will appear from the kitchen (the more beers ordered the larger the plate, a shared experience). A new one comes every 10-15 minutes and as long as you order every now and then you seem to get more plates than glasses, though by that stage you don't care. The food is really good - great seafood cooked beautifully and in huge variety, with occasional extras.
We loved the place: it's friendly, efficient and high quality. There's more room at lunchtime and seats outside.
Calle Navas, 28, 18009 Granada, Spain
+34 958 22 70 70
Google map: bit.ly/NXQ4T6
We have just spent a month in Croatia travelling by bus from Istria down the coast to Dubrovnik, taking ferries to Korcula and Mljet on-route. Our stay at Zadar was a gem, full of Croatian character but not full of tourists. Accommodation can be found in private houses in area around the bus station - look for the blue 'apartman' signs, or book in advance using hostelworld.com. In the old town: enjoy the view from bell tower of Anastasia's cathedral, feast on a gelato and walk along the esplanade to the large 'disk of light' solar panel, listen to the sea organ, visit St Donat's church built on a roman site, appreciate the art museum. Eat at Pet Bunara restaurant (close to the city gate).
www.petbunara.hr/indexeng.html
Trg pet Bunara, Stari Zadar, 23000, Zadar, Croatia
+385 23 224 010
Google map: bit.ly/LGdtUa
The last time we were in Brsec we were lost and it was going to take a similar lack of navigation skills to get us back there this time.
So we headed optimistically more or less south-east across the Istrian peninsula hoping for signs for Hrastovlie, Pozane, Buzet, Vranja and make Brsec in time to check into the B&B and head for the only restaurant/bar in the village and chilled pints of the local Favorit beer. They don’t get many English/British visitors and in the absence of us having any Croatian language skills German is the common tongue. “Do you have any vegetarian dishes”? “Yes, we have chicken and fish, where have you come from”? It is now that we learn that Buzet is pronounced Tzb, Pozane, Nzp and Vranja, Jnrv. Just take out all the vowels and pronounce it backwards - you get the picture.
Brsec and this stretch of the coast are truly beautiful. The sky is blue and cloudless and there’s a path leading from our B&B down through wild asparagus and sage scattered woods to a secluded cove where the Adriatic Sea is aqua-marine and crystal clear and that’s where we spend the majority of our weekend. Mostly we have the beach to ourselves but at some point the cove fills with a family of seals, their black heads bobbing in the sea as they dive and play. On closer inspection the seals turn out to be a scuba diving club. One of the islands nearby is the home of a flock of Griffon vultures and squadrons of long-necked jet black swan/goose-like birds zoom across the surface of the water.
We venture as far as Labin for gnocci and gorgonzola sauce and walk along the promenade from Lovran to Opatije for ice cream and pizza and that’s as much effort as we want to make.
B&B: +385 51 290 159
Google map: bit.ly/Mc3msD
The quality of service in this breezy rooftop restaurant is second to none. While every other householder in the village has slung up a bamboo roof on top of their building and declared themselves a restaurateur, the Franco-Indian couple who own "Le Yogi" really know their business: the waiter takes your order quickly, and with no fuss; he brings your (cold) drink immediately; finally, he places in front of you the exact dishes you asked for, at the same time as those of your partner. The food is fresh and the atmosphere is laid back and informal. The decor, although similar to the de rigeur paper-lantern school of interiors beloved by exotic backpacker destinations, is just that little bit more chic and tasteful. With shelves full of books and games, you could easily spend all day here.
The only thing that lets it down is the rather basic squat lavatory with no flush system except a dripping tap.
They also run "La Pizzeria de Mama", on the opposite corner. But you can have your pizza delivered to "Le Yogi" if you can't be arsed to move away from this friendly, chilled place.
19, Othavadai St, Fishermen Colony, Mamallapuram - 603104, Tamil Nadu
+91 9840706340
Google map: bit.ly/KCqfXG
Escape the cruise ship hordes in Korcula Town and the sunworshippers on Orebic beach by heading out to peaceful Stupe Island. This tiny outcrop in the Adriatic Sea (you can walk right round it in 20 minutes) has a small beach, superb snorkelling, rocks to dive off and a family-run shack, or Kornoba, serving freshly-caught grilled fish. The kitchen is built right into the rock and wooden tables overlook the dock beneath a shade of reeds. You can reach the island by water taxi from Korcula or, as we did, towed behind a speedboat on an inflatable banana! Just don't forget to ask to be picked up again after sunset.
Otok Stupe, Korcula Archipelago, Croatia
For table booking call mobile: +385 (0)98 933 76 11
www.korculainfo.com/restaurants/konoba-grill-stupe.html
Google map: bit.ly/MAco1h
This pine covered island is totally undeveloped. The catamaran from Dubrovnik drops you at the tiny town of Polace which has remains of a Roman palace. Here you can hire a bicycle to explore the quiet roads and reach the lake with an islet that is home to a 12th century Benedictine monastery. This is now a restaurant and served by a little boat so that you can treat yourself to a seafood lunch. Swimming in the clear blue lake is a great way to cool down.
www.mljettravel.com
Mljet island is 90 minutes by catamaran from Dubrovnik
Google map: bit.ly/LFjAcV
This small town just outside of Pula is an absolute gem - full of medieval winding streets, beautiful churches and stunning architecture. It also contains the fascinating church of St Blaise (home to six mummified saints), and the best restaurant in the whole of Istria (so we thought anyway!) The restaurant is called Vodnjanka and is definitely worth sourcing out for an authentic Istrian meal in a friendly place, full of locals, and with excellent service.
Vodnjanka: Istarska b.b., 52215, Vodnjan
+385 52 511 435
Google map:
Is this your business?