Portugal isn't known for its great gastronomy, and outside of Lisbon its hard to find restaurants without the decor of a UK public toilet with stark white tiling from floor to ceiling, though these restaurants run by their owners with the wife generally doing the cooking do delicious home-cooked food.
In the little visited Alentejo I would recommend Estremoz Saturday market in its large marble lined main square, where even the kerb stones are made of marble. Here little old ladies sell whatever is fresh in their vegetable garden and from their fruit trees, and their husbands sell their olive oil, olives and honey. Ask "posso provar" can I try in Portuguese and everyone will be willing to offer you a taste. The market is famous for its cheeses and cured meats all hanging on public display ripe for a tasting. After you have shopped try a tiny restaurant near to one of the old town gates, restaurant Azul, where every Saturday the kitchen offers three main meals, usually one fish and two types of pork, sometimes chicken served with plenty of homemade chunky bread, fresh olives, chips and salad. A main meal will cost around five euros without wine, hang your flat cap on the wall and sit down and enjoy!

Estremoz market, every saturday early until around 12.30pm, many buses from Lisbon or drive from Lisbon around 1 1/2 hours
Azul: Rua Victor Cordon n0 39, 7100-560, Estremoz, Portugal
Google map: bit.ly/LlaQ8W

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This is probably the best "marisqueira", i.e. seafood restaurant, in the greater Lisbon region. It is located in downtown Vila Franca de Xira, a small city to the NE of Lisbon (about 24 km from Lisbon) known for its bullfighting tradition. You can reach the city by car (less than 30 min on the A1 motorway) or by train (Vila Franca de Xira station, from Oriente or Santa Apolónia stations in Lisbon).
The restaurant serves a wonderful "sapateira" (brown crab). Make sure you order the buttered toasted bread onto which you spread the paste that comes inside the crab's shell. Try the amêijoas à Bulhão Pato too. These are some of the best clams in Portugal. And, of course, try the typically Iberian "percebes" (goose barnacles).
Everything is fresh, good quality, and cooked to perfection. It is not touristy at all. Its clients are locals. I know the restaurant isn't open every day of the week, but cannot recall which day it isn't (so call before visiting).

restauranteamarisqueira.pai.pt/
Rua Almeida Garrett 24/6 , 2600-095 Vila Franca de Xira
+351 263 242 740
Google map: bit.ly/Kr82bG

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Finding tasty and interesting food in the Algarve is a challenge, especially with a vegetarian friend to satisfy. Discovering Chicca's in Luz therefore has been a turning point. The host relishes describing and presenting the wonderfully designed and prepared dishes as much as we enjoy eating them. The dishes which are all fresh and seasonal, and mostly organic, are all are so divine it's difficult to choose and impossible not to return. The atmosphere is the digestif which will make you want to stay all day and night in this cozy and fun ethical gem of an eatery.

Rua da Varzea, 3, Luz, Portugal
+351 282 761 334
Google map: bit.ly/Lc4aNQ

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With eclectic décor, wonderful service and fantastic food, The Dwelling House is a little slice of bygone Britain in the centre of Fowey. The amazing array of cakes and scones are freshly cooked in the homely kitchen and served on vintage crockery in the quirky tea rooms. The hardest part is deciding what to choose; but in the year of the Jubilee it’d have to be the scrumptious Victoria Sponge!

www.thedwellinghouse.co.uk
6 Fore Street, Fowey, Cornwall, PL23 1AQ
+44(0)1726 833662
Google map: bit.ly/LuvE4a

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The warren of tiny streets in Alfama come to life after dark, covered with lanterns and streamers, makeshift restaurants spring up on every corner serving the local specialty – grilled sardines. There is a wonderful friendly atmosphere and the air is filled with live music and fragrant smoke. The freshly grilled sardines, served simply with bread and salad are delicious. Then wash them down with sangria or a beer, get lost in the crowd and dance the night away.

www.festasdelisboa.com

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Alcohol is state controlled in Kerala and bars are kept strictly behind blacked out windows, or in international hotels. If you fancy a beer with the locals you'll have to head to one of the bars dotted around the city. Look for the big black and white diamond sign outside. The best of these is the Bar Oberoi on MG Road. It's not as dark and desperate as most of them, and is kept pretty clean (at least the rats and cockroaches are not visible). You'll be the only non-Indian in there, and if you're a woman you'll definitely be the only one. Between 5pm and 6pm most days the proprietor lights a series of incense sticks, each more smoky than the last, finishing with full-on frankincense that makes your eyes water, but smells nice. The food is average, freshly cooked, and has never made me ill.

MG Road, Ernakulam, 682035, Kerala
+91(0)484 2351609
Google map: bit.ly/MAryGV

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There are plenty of tourist restaurants in the chi-chi streets of Fort Cochin and Mattancherry, some listed in the guide books, all expensive (by Kochi standards) and most serving up pretty good food. It's fun to pick a fish from the Chinese nets and to have it cooked in front of you. But for a flavour of authentic local food, at a local price, go to the commercial district of Ernakulam. The Hotel Saravana Bhavan serves the best vegetable thali in the whole of Kochi. (Like many restaurants in India it is called a 'hotel' when all it does is serve food, which can be a bit misleading as the hotels are usually called hotels too.) The non A/C section is always packed with local workers. For less than £1 they'll serve your meal on an ela (Malayalam for banana leaf) and keep re-filling it until you burst. There's an A/C section for posh people who like a bit of space, and cutlery.
As with all restaurants in India, get there early so you can pick up the food while it's still fresh and before the best dishes run out.

Banerji Road, Ernakulam, Kerala, India
+91 484 237 0153
Google map: bit.ly/LuzwlQ

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When those ancient traders sailed from the Arabian Sea into the hectic spice port of Fort Cochin, they were greeted by rows of shore-based Chinese fishing nets. Crowding along the estuary, these primitive machines—like gigantic alien sentries from a Ridley Scott sci-fi film—have been in use for hundreds of years, and are found throughout Kerala's famous backwaters. Legend has it they came from the court of Kublai Khan, but the precise date is not known. Still in use today, the cantilevered contraptions stand around ten meters high, and about twenty meters wide. The nets dip in and out of the water all day, staying down for only five minutes before being levered back up. Fort Cochin is the best place to see them up close. Choose a fish straight from the net then watch it being grilled in front of you for a tasty supper.

River Road, Nr Vypeen ferry terminal, Fort Cochin
Google map: bit.ly/Ldl7Hy

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With its sparkling lights, 24 carat gilding and huge wall mirror at the back it seems like Le Greenwich goes on forever. And now, freshly reopened and gleaming after a costly renovation, it just might.
For too long this historic bar had wallowed in its own smoky grime, trading on its reputation of years of epic chess matches, rumours of original tiled bathrooms, and its most famous customer, René Magritte. Coming back I’m astonished at the transformation: it’s almost too new, and so shiny that Magritte would probably not recognise it. It’s certainly no longer a place where I can imagine any scruffy artist at the window trying to sell paintings. I haven’t yet spotted any chess players, either.
It took a private Dutch investor and some regional subsidies to finally save this listed building from leaks and bring it up to modern standards. Sitting in here you feel like a drinker in the first class lounge on the Titanic. I’m told by one of the waiters that Magritte used to sit in the right hand window viewed from outside - in any case, that table is always occupied! Drink one - drink three - but I think the food is better elsewhere - best to head next door for that (or try one of the many other restaurants nearby).

Rue des Chartreux 7, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium
+32 2 511 41 67
Google map: bit.ly/Ksb0N5

* Bec is our Been there local for Brussels. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/brussels-local-rebecca.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/Becinbrussels

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A quirky little restaurant, with the walls plastered with foreign coins and banknotes, can be found down a tiny alleyway not far from the waterfront. You will be pleasantly surprised by this little gem that doesn’t even try to compete with the tourist restaurants along the seafront. It doesn’t need to!
Location and size it may not have, but it makes up for that with huge portions of authentic Portuguese dishes served in beautiful poteens , by friendly and happy staff.
If you love dining with the locals then take this diversion off the tourist routes.

www.oraviva.pt.vu
Rua Fonte, 83, 4050-270, Porto
+351 222052033
Google map: bit.ly/MasteB

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Located in San Rafael with stunning views of the neighboring church, El Clodenis has been one of the locals’ and global jet sets’ favorite gourmet hot spots for a quarter of a century. After a relaxed day on the beach it is an absolute must do for Ibiza admirers to enjoy the delightful atmosphere and the amazing food of El Clodenis- a mixture of French cuisine and Ibiza flavors - on the flowered pool terrace.

www.elclodenisibiza.com
Plaza de la Iglesia, 07816 San Rafael – Ibiza
Spain
+34 971 198 545
Google map: bit.ly/Mk5b8E

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If you prefer your art to be edible, the Mandarin Grill + Bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is offering a special art inspired lunch and dinner menu until 20th May. Michelin-starred chef, Uwe Opocensky, has spent six months creating a multimedia menu with each course inspired by a different aspect of art. I have it on excellent authority that the food is outstanding and almost too exquisite to eat (but ultimately too delicious to resist). Book early to avoid missing out!

www.mandarinoriental.com
5 Connaught Road, Hong Kong
+852 2522 0111
Google map: bit.ly/JinZU4

* Natalie is our local for Hong Kong. You can read all about her here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/hong-kong-local-natalie-robinson.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/natalierobinson
She also has her own blog at: www.3badmice.com/

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I was introduced to this restaurant by a holiday romance. He insisted it was the best place for seafood in Portugal - he was right. The fantastic but cheap food kept me here all evening, as well as the good selection of wines. It has a great atmosphere with a fantastic view of the coast. I highly recommend it to anyone interested in freshly caught seafood - a truly traditional Portuguese meal.

Estrada da Praia da Bordeira, Carrapateira
8670-230 Bordeira
+351 282 973 119
Google map: bit.ly/KLjmj0

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We spent Easter this year in Lisbon which is full of fabulous places to eat, but the best by a mile was our 'splash out' meal at Olivier Restaurant. By Lisbon standards it's pricy, but compared to a similar meal in London it's an absolute bargain when compared to other 'celeb chef' places. I had the most tender melt in your mouth buttered fish and my plus one had a perfectly cooked steak with champagne, decent wine and finishing off with the best crepes suzette ever. Go treat yourself if you're in Lisbon!

www.restaurante-olivier.com
Rua do Alecrim, 23, 1200 - 014 Lisbon
Google map: bit.ly/KfgdaW

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A wonderful find, deep in the Umbrian countryside - a bed and breakfast but so so much more. Ca'di Gosto is part of the slow cooking movement offering great food and even cooking lessons. Set among terraces of olive trees, most of the produce is grown by the owners Jenny and David and it's home of the best eggs have ever had.
It is a beautifully renovated Umbrian Farmhouse with wonderfully decorated bedrooms with en-suites, and the luxury of a swimming pool and Jenny the chef to cook for you. The whole place is a feast to the eyes.
If you are not an animal lover then maybe it's not the place for you as Jenny and David have a lovely family of beautiful dogs, a couple of cats and an array of chickens and bantums all with there own characters!
A truly lovely and food filling pleasure.

www.slowcooking.homestead.com
+39 348 323 6704
Google map: bit.ly/IZ9Lmi

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It's a cafe, restaurant and bar with a terrace with great views facing the Hudson.

www.boatbasincafe.com/
West 79th Street, New York, NY, United States
+1 212 496 5542
Google map: bit.ly/Jr3mlC
It's where W79 St meets the Hudson. Take a 1 train to 79 St and walk west (downhill), or take the M79 bus a block or so. Walk under the West Side Highway and keep going. You don't see it till you're there.

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Nerja, an attractive fishing-based resort east of Malaga, has good beaches and traditional bars in the old town. Try the tapas of fresh seafood (free with your £1.30 crisp dry white) while your children play football in the street. Our local was family-owned, their boat bringing the catch straight back to the restaurant. There is a long sandy beach where on Sundays enormous dishes of paella are cooked on charcoal fires (£6.50 with free second helpings). Finish the night out with chocolate and churros, the whole family walking safely back at midnight in this friendly, mellow seaside town.

Google map: bit.ly/J7vqis

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I first discovered La Mariposa fresh off a flight at 10pm last summer - greeted by a beautiful local husband and wife duo who run the restaurant. You always know a good tapas bar when all of the customers are locals.
Nerja is one of the few places in Andalucia that still offer free tapas with a drink and in Mariposa they offer their best - truly showing off the local culinary skills and knowledge.
The owner has a top selection of Spanish riojas which beautifully compliment the food.
Personal food recommendations are the Aubergine Tempura drizzled with Frigiliana Molases followed by the locally caught Langoustine's in a potato lattice accompanied by the curry dip.
This is fine dining in an authentic little hub- excellent value for money!!
I would fly to Spain for some right now if I could!

Calle Cristo 120, Nerja, Spain
+34(0)627504840
Google map: bit.ly/IDYSvo

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China Club is a private members club owned by Sir David Tang housed over three floors in the former Bank of China Building (the new Bank of China Building towers sleek and angular across the road - you can’t miss it, look for the glossy black building with criss-crossing white lights). Although you usually have to be or know a member to get a reservation, most hotels should be able to get you a booking with enough notice and Black Amex Card holders can get Amex to book for them. The grey, brightly-lit street level entrance appears unimpressive but ride the Old Master Q cartoon lined lift up to the thirteenth floor and prepare to be wowed.
As the lift doors open you’re greeted by a lobby crammed with striking modern art, dark wooden floors and a wrought iron Art Deco staircase curving upwards to your left. The extensive Chinese art collection deserves a mention in its own right, and alone justifies a visit to the China Club. From Yu Youhan’s diptych of Whitney Houston next to Chairman Mao hanging on the stairs to Liu Jianhua’s porcelain fish bowl in the lobby - home to five pairs of protruding, disembodied legs as well as several live goldfish who casually swim around the scattered limbs. The restaurant is designed to resemble a decadent 1930s Shanghai club and everything from the ceiling fans to the lamps conjure a bygone colonial era.
Start with aperitifs up on the 14th floor in the Long March Bar, a glamorous slice of art deco opulence. After you gin & tonic, head back past the shoe-shiners and an enormous pair of wooden shoes to the main dining room. Slip into one of the red leather and dark wood booths and get your chopsticks at the ready for the Cantonese feast to follow. Be sure to order the Peking duck, I think it’s the best in Hong Kong. While you eat, if the people watching doesn't keep you entertained enough (Victoria Beckham visited on her recent trip to Hong Kong), prepare to be wowed by the chef who spins ribbons of noodles right in front of your table and the waiter with the watering-can-like teapots who serves your tea with a side of drama. After dinner, decamp upstairs to the elegant terrace for nightcaps under the stars overlooking the city lights.

12/F, The Old Bank of China Building, Bank Street, Central, Hong Kong Island.
+(852) 2521 8888
Google map: bit.ly/IQcv85

* Natalie is our local for Hong Kong. You can read all about her here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/hong-kong-local-natalie-robinson.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/natalierobinson
She also has her own blog at: www.3badmice.com/

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Dim Sum became the noughties' sushi in the UK with the advent of fast food dim sum chains like Ping Pong. Before arriving in Hong Kong I'd eaten plenty of dim sum in London but the slightly gummy, insipid little parcels I was used to bore no resemblance to the real deal served up in Hong Kong’s dim sum restaurants. A dim sum lunch is a real Hong Kong must-do. Eating dim sum at a restaurant is known as “going to drink tea”, or “yum cha” in Cantonese. It’s customary for Cantonese families to gather at the weekend to eat dim sum together so particularly on a Saturday and Sunday, expect busy, noisy restaurants packed with large chattering groups.
While I make no claim that the Yum Cha at Maxim's Palace is the best in Hong Kong (I'm still on a quest to discover that, and will keep you posted on my findings), the dim sum's very good, you get great harbour views and it’s also one of only a handful of restaurants in Hong kong which still uses the old school dim sum trolleys. Come at lunchtime but be prepared for a wait - Maxim's doesn't take bookings and it gets pretty hectic, particularly at weekends. Queueing over, take your seat in the large red and gold dining hall and sip on Jasmine tea while keeping a close eye on the trolleys being
wheeled between the tables. Each trolley is laden with bamboo dim sum steamers. When a trolley passes by and you spot something that you fancy, stop the waitress and grab a basket. Struggling to decide what to opt for? I suggest that you try a little bit of everything but my top dim sum picks are: har gau (shrimp dumplings), char sui bau (steamed barbeque pork buns), cheung fan (rice paper rolls which come with various fillings aka Chinese ravoili), sui mai (pork dumplings), and Xiaolongbao (steamed pork soup dumplings originating from Shanghai). If you’re feeling particularly brave, try
the chicken’s feet which actually don’t taste as bad as they look but are not the easiest thing to eat if you’re a little inexperienced with chopsticks. Lunch over, leave City Hall with a tummy full of dumplings and the clatter of the dim sum carts ringing in your ears and head for a stroll along the harbour front to work it all off.

City Hall Maxim's Palace
2/F, City Hall Low Block, Hong Kong Island.
+(852) 2521 1303
Google map: bit.ly/JZ2YQ6

* Natalie is our local for Hong Kong. You can read all about her here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/hong-kong-local-natalie-robinson.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/natalierobinson
She also has her own blog at: www.3badmice.com/

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