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Dara Gaon Village Retreat is a charming, authentic and comfortable place in the misty valleys of Sikkim.
After an awful time in the graceless Newa Regency in Pelling, we moved to this homestay where we were very happy for five nights. Taking a night off from the slovenly service in our Pelling nightmare, we walked to Kechoperi Lake, and slept in a basic, clean room provided by a local family. On the way back to Pelling, we hitched a lift in the back of a truck full of local tribes people, which stopped at Darap, from where we were driven by Mr Sushil Tamang of the Cherry Village Resort, back to our crumby hotel.
Sushil listened to our tale of woe and suggested we move to a homestay. We hadn't realised there were any in the area, so jumped at the chance. He arranged it all for us and we ended up at Dara Goan Retreat.
It is a steep and rocky path to and through the buildings of Shiva's family home, but this is the Himalayas, so you need to be able manage a gentle climb. If you want the authentic experience of a Nepali home then stay here, or at any of the other homestays springing up in Sikkim.
The price was for full board, but when we ate elsewhere the money spent in the other house was contra-ed against our bill.
We were given wonderful home-cooked breakfasts, lunches and dinners, with tea/coffee available at any time. The service was charming and on time. Some guests forget that homestays are not hotels: they do not have a full complement of chefs in a 24 hour kitchen. It is often only the wife who cooks, and as guests we must respect that she has other chores during the day. You take your meals at the same time as the family, so should be prepared to compromise to a certain extent. Initially we were fed at 8:30pm, but when we said we would prefer to eat earlier the family was delighted -- they had been serving food late because that is what domestic Indian tourists prefer.
We had a list of activities offered to us, many of which we took up, but some of which we simply didn't have time to enjoy. We spent a day on the village walk with Purna, which we would recommend to everyone: we tried the local moonshine, local tea, local food and a strange tea brewed by Purna's Mum, a Limboo lady living in their 200 year old mud-floored family home. We didn't manage any fishing, but if we go back we intend to spend a day at the river.
Please go to Sikkim and please stay here. For further information contact Sushil, who will find you a homestay here, or elsewhere in Darap, he's on 09733235441
EMAIL: sushil_ghising@yahoo.co.in OR
EMAIL: darap.cherryvillage@gmail.com
PHONE: +91-9733235441
WEBSITE: www.cherryvillageresort.com
India’s most romantic city? If you enjoy having the hackneyed Hollywood idea of romance shoved down your throat by every guide book, then yeah, I s’pose it’s romantic. We arrived there for our three day, two night stay on 14th February.
It’s certainly pretty: a wide stretch of shallow water (the lake) is surrounded by limestone and marble hotels and a Monte Carlo-esque palace. Decorative islands float in the middle. At night, with the soft orange lights from the surrounding buildings bouncing off the water, it is like something out of A Thousand and One Arabian nights. If comparisons with Italy must be made then it’s more like Lake Garda than the Lido. Of course, it’s impossible to get away from the James Bond island hysteria that surrounds the Taj Lake Palace Hotel (Jag Niwas island) on every page of every guide to Udaipur (it is where they filmed some of the scenes in Octopussy). It’s also where the nouveaux stay. And at £430 a night for the cheapest room (breakfast not included) or £6,200 for the Presidential suite, they’d better be riche as well. We decided not to stay there.
My choice of accommodation for Udaipur turned out to be a winner which I can happily recommend. We enjoyed an enviable 360° view across the city from the rooftop of the sixteenth century Anjani Hotel.
On the first day we were a little disheartened by the streets and lanes packed with touts and shops around the lake and palace. We felt like aliens in this wholly touristy area. Nevertheless, we shelved our reservations and joined the throng. Shunning the ‘antiques’, carpets, and tailoring being thrust at us, we enjoyed a leisurely walk around the main area and across a scenic bridge over Lake Pichola. Ending up at the end of a track by the water, right opposite the City Palace, we watched the sun go down over Udaipur from the best viewpoint in town, in the company of professional photographers and the homeless.
The next day we joined the queues at the fairytale City Palace. With its balconies, cupolas, ornate towers, palaces within palaces, opulent state rooms and extravagant private rooms (check out one of my favourites, the nursery), it is a fabulous museum of wealth and privilege. The corridors went on forever, and I wasn’t surprised to discover that it is Rajasthan’s largest palace. Built by Maharana Udai Singh II in 1559, it was extended over the next few hundred years. Although from different eras, the palace has retained an overall elegance and is a nice way to spend half a day.
We wanted to get out on the water, but there are very few ways of doing this. If you stay on Jag Niwas island, of course, your price includes the hotel’s own taxi service; for the rest of us transport options are limited. We bit the bullet and queued up for the Lake Boat Ride. At 300Rs (£4.20) each it is expensive by Indian standards. Excitedly we waited to be dropped off at Jag Niwas, but the boat circled the island and then carried on. Damn. It seems that you can’t visit the island because it is wholly owned by the hotel, and you can only go there if you are a guest (we know because we tried every way we could think of to blag an entry). Still, we headed over to the older Jagmandir island.
The palace here came to prominence when Maharana Karan Singh built a safe haven for the future Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz (of Taj Mahal fame). Although Karan’s ancestor had fled from Akbar, and his own father had been defeated in the endless battles between Mughals and Mewars, some believe Karan helped Shah Jahan (known as Khurram before he became emperor) because the Mughal’s wife was Hindu. Whatever the reason, it was a shrewd move: by keeping Khurram under Mewar protection during 1623–1624 he backed the right horse. When Khurran became 'Emperor Shah Jahan', he gave back six districts to the Mewar kingdom, and a nice fat ruby to Karan’s son, Jagat Singh. We didn’t get quite such a good deal. We were allowed to see about one third of the palace buildings, and a cup of tea cost 130Rs (£1.85). To put it into perspective, a cuppa in the station cost 2Rs.
Feeling disappointed with our boat trip, despite the prettiness of the palace, we decided to get off the beaten track, so out came the walking boots. This proved to be a wise decision. We found life-as-it-is-in-India going on in the shops, houses and workshops outside the expensive tourist area. What a breath of fresh air to find women doing all the work, as men sat around drinking tea in the back alleys and children pumped water from standpipes.
We walked northwards, towards the distant music we had heard all morning, which became louder until it nearly split our ear-drums. Distorted noise poured out of strategically placed giant speakers along narrow alleys: just as the pain began to subside you would be hit by a fresh onslaught of decibels at every turn. We had stumbled upon a Muslim festival, it was the Prophet Muhammad (peace be upon him)’s birthday celebrations. Great vats and plates of food were being prepared for the afternoon’s revelry by men (yes, men for a change!) while the women stayed in the background looking after excitable children. Jamie and I were offered a kind of semolina to eat. It had raisins in it and was rather sweet, but very good. Presented on a small paper plate, the trick was to eat it with your (right) hand and then throw the empty plate on the ground. I found the throwing of the paper plate on the ground more uncomfortable than eating semolina with my hand.
As usual, I was glad that I had kept a scarf with me and was reasonably covered up with a long top and trousers: I was treated with respect and kindness by everyone.
Before we left Udaipur we were lucky enough to come across one of the best places we have eaten in India. The city has loads of hotels and restaurants, and many are recommended in the guide books and online (not always accurately). We struck out on our own and ended up at the Nayee Haveli. What a serendipitous discovery. The rooms -- there are only six of them -- are comfortable and full of character; and the three roof terraces have million dollar views. It’s the sort of place you can spend the day just relaxing and hanging out. Our lunch, served in the Moonlight Tandoori Restaurant on the roof, was exceptional. Cooked by Raju, who had been working in the hotel for three years, we ate the best vegetable jalfrezi of our lives. Admittedly it took a little while, but the whole meal, including chutneys, was made freshly for us.
If you want a really sour, hot and tasty chutney just mash together all of these: mint, garlic, ginger, coriander, lemon, fresh green mangoes, salt, pepper, cinnamon, all spice, oil. Make sure all the ingredients are fresh and don’t overdo the cinnamon.
For similar tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
55, Gangaur Ghat, Udaipur, India
+91 9829511573 / 98296 43197 :
nayee.haveli.udaipur@newyorkemail.net
A fabulous homestay just outside the centre of Agra, but a short autorickshaw ride from all the sights.
The Singh family have lived here for many years, and are genial hosts with a wealth of knowledge of the area. The property, originally built for British Army top brass, is cool and spacious, with spotlessly clean bedrooms equipped with everything a traveller needs, including ensuite bathrooms, ice cold A/C and a TV. Breakfast is plentiful, and supper can be provided.
The warmth of the welcome cannot be overstated, and even though we were only there for three days, we left feeling part of the family, as cliched as it may sound. Wholeheartedly recommended.
www.heritagehome.in
52A, Gaugh Road, Agra Cantt, Near U.P.Tourism Office, Agra
+91 8057596096
Google map: bit.ly/sHjwml
I stayed with the Monteserin family in Bariloche during one week. This is a cheap and wonderful alternative to checking in at a hostel. Living with Silvia and Roberto was very helpful for my Spanish, before visting Bariloche I almost didn't speak Spanish at all, but after spending one week in this place I felt so much more confident with the language. Also, I enjoyed being a part of the Monteserin family, if so even for only a week. Silvia and Roberto are very friendly, very helpful and have a great sense of humor! I loved being around in the house and play cards or only talk with them. You will love staying with them, I promise!
bblosmonte.blogspot.com/
shva1@hotmail.com
Google map: bit.ly/9t139N
Have just returned from a two-week family holiday in France having exchanged my home with family in the Loire Valley. Would recommend this type of "home stay" for complete experience of different country and culture.
Staying at B&B Los Monte means staying with, and becoming part of, the Monteserin family. Roberto and Silvia are the best hosts you could dream of having, and their grown-up daughters Cecilia and Natalia (if they are around and not off on their own adventures) are just as friendly and welcoming as their parents.
Silvia's cooking is second to none and Roberto's enthusiasm is completely infectious. Their love of, and knowledge about, the local area is evident from the start and we would thoroughly recommend taking them up on any offer to take you out and about - you'll see places others won't, and just spending time with this family is good for the soul.
Bariloche has plenty of pubs and bars to keep the night owls happy, but we spent many happy evenings playing cards with Roberto and Silvia, picking up a couple of new games along the way. Be warned though - they are formidable 'Escoba' opponents!
I guarantee you'll leave feeling happier and more optimistic than when you arrived, and absolutely determined to return.
San Carlos de Bariloche, Patagonia Argentina
bblosmonte.blogspot.com/
robertomonteserin@hotmail.com or
shva1@hotmail.com
Isolated in the middle of the highest lake in the world, the islands of Taquille and Amantani are an unbeatable place to engage with indigenous culture, and staying with a welcoming local family is the perfect way to do it.
The communities who live on the islands fled there to escape the Inca conquest of Peru, and little seems to have changed since then. No running water, electricity, and freezing candlelit nights make for an uncomfortable stay! But I'd recommend it because of the awe inspiring setting and shy, but warm, knitting population who have set up their own collective to transport and accommodate guests.
If you can happily eat potatoes three times a day, this homestay is perfect.
Turn up at the docks in Puno before 8 a.m. and be sure to ask for the collective boat, (this way all the proceeds go to the island communities), when you arrive on an island, 4 or 5 hours later, the boat men will arrange a local family for you to stay with, on a rotating system.
If you'd like to extend your interactions with Thai people beyond bartering with tuk-tuk drivers or ordering another Singha, I heartily recommend booking a cultural exchange trip with this sustainable development / community-based tourism organisation based in Kuraburi on the Andaman coast, two hours' drive north from Khao Lak.
I received a warm welcome from the friendly AD team, who arranged for me to stay with a Thai family in a local fishing village. I got to see and experience various activities that the villagers undertake to support themselves in a post-tsunami world, including planting mangroves, weaving palm leaf roofs, designing batik, fishing, and much more. It gave me a real insight into a very different way of life - and was plenty of fun besides.
Andaman Discoveries also arrange longer-term volunteering opportunities, teaching English at a local school, helping out at a local orphanage, or in a school for disabled children in Phuket.
Soi Nangyon, Kuraburi.
You can get an overnight bus from Bangkok, or it's a three-hour bus ride from Phuket.
www.andamandiscoveries.com
Rana is a village homestay located just outside Kampong Cham. My boyfriend and I spent two nights here in February 08 and had a great time. We have been travelling the world for 11 months now and have stayed at homestays throughout South America and Asia and I have to say that Rana homestay was the best.
We learnt so much information about the culture of Cambodia and the Pol Pot regime and ate excellent traditional food. Don and Kheang are very friendly and have wonderful children, Ra and Na. I would love to come back to visit and I would recommend this for anyone, but please do not expect a luxury room, it is basic but comfortable.
For contact information and to learn more you can visit: rana-cambodia.blogspot.com/
Lovely, lovely people. Clean, comfortable rooms. Great food. Great hospitality and very moderately priced ($20).
House located in the vicinity of La Maison, a kind of nightclub with fashion shows in the evening.
Address: Anacaona 107
e/ Aguilera y Taino
Terrazas de Vista Alegre
Santiago de Cuba
Telephone: +53-22-641970
Website: www.geocities.com/hospedajesantiago/HS_en.html
Excellent reasonably priced Indian homestay. Colonel Lamba is a nice old Sikh fella who along with his family runs the hotel/home. Pick ups from the train station are on the house and the rooms are really clean, ensuite, air-con and have cable TV. Rs550 for a double room and excellent homecooked meals available for Rs250/night and well worth it!
Gulhomar Enclave, off Shamshabad Road, Agra
The one essential reason to visit Kampong Cham is for the Rana Country Homestay - the most rewarding day of our entire trip to Cambodia. 80% of Cambodia’s population are still subsistence farmers, and this place is unique in giving an insider insight into the realities of peasant life.
The delightful and informative owner takes you on tours of the village and farmlands, in between making delicious home-cooked Cambodian meals (best Amok by miles), and in the evening people from the village come to talk to you about whatever you want.
We found it particularly insightful to have this perspective on the Pol Pot years – especially as most information comes from previously wealthy city dwellers dispossessed by the Khmer Rouge or the horrors of Toul Sleng and the killing fields. Strongly recommend you take the short detour required off the road from Phnom Penh – Siem Reap to visit!
It is a small 'homestay' where the hosts are welcoming and accomodating. Lots of laughs and giggles took place in the lounge with Rose and John. Easy to find and a pleasant easy walk into the town centre.
82 Caledionian Road
Christchurch
N.Z.
Tel:- +64 3 377 4832
e-mail:- contact@smartlee.co.nz
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