http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33940 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33940 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33535 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33535 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33012 Needless to say that our day of trekking did not disappoint and from the moment we were collected in a private car from our hostel we were treated like good friends of Enrique and his staff. We were lucky enough to be the only visitors to the ranch that day and so received breakfast with the staff before heading out for three hours of riding.
We meandered through stunning scenery past golden fields, deserted brooks and streams and tree lined lanes all surrounded by a backdrop of soaring mountains. Our guide treated us to stories of gaucho life in the mountains and highlighted elements of rural life as we rode. He was understanding of our varying levels of experience and when it came to galloping he was encouraging but not forceful, choosing safe areas and even galloping alongside where necessary!
We were treated as guests of honour at lunch among the staff and Enrique and his team insisted we eat more fantastic steak and drank more of their home made wine-so who were we to resist?! It did make the three-hour ride in the afternoon less enticing but the beautiful scenery and postcard sunset drove us on.
There were so many highlights to our trip in Argentina but our day at the Cabalgatas ranch is a strong contender for the top spot. Enrique and his team provide a genuine gaucho experience in a market where there are so many competitors of questionable authenticity. I am so glad I chose their ranch for my re-introduction to riding but on my next visit I will go for the overnight trek into the mountains and hopefully my sister will be a little less reluctant to join me!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33012 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33011 On arrival at the ranch the welcoming gauchos at Sayta assured me they had been riding since they were two years old, and began competing in rodeos not long after, so I was in the very best of hands. Still, sitting 5ft from the ground, I felt no more at ease. Once we set out, however, I soon left behind any anxieties that I'd had. As we were led down gentle shaded streams with stunning views of the Andes constantly at our side, what I thought would be a nerve-racking ride became a peaceful and relaxing few hours in the most beautiful surroundings, with no other people in sight.
The morning ride was also a great way to work up an appetite for a large Argentine parilla at lunch! As soon as we came close to conquering the stack of meat before us, Enrique, the owner of the ranch, would top up our plates (and our wine glasses!). We just about managed to climb back onto our horses for a further three hours of trekking, by the end of which, and due to a slight mistranslation, I was galloping across the dusty and deserted Lerma valley.
We were driven back to our hostel that evening as we sipped mate and the sun set over the mountainous landscape, and I realised that this was exactly the image I had of a South American ranch. A truly unforgettable day and the perfect introduction to horseriding - gaucho style!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33011 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33008 A horse riding trip with Reto Cabalgatas in an experience not to miss. No luxury, no ranch and not at all 'touristy'.
We started our trip into the mountains by making an offering to Pacha Mama. After heading up the trail, glimpsing beautiful mountains through the trees, and listening to Tono playing on his flute or harmonica, we came out into the open to be greeted by the most incredible view. There we were, high up in the mountains, with not a soul around. All around us was lush greenery and mountains, a huge lake, and, if we looked carefully, we could just about see the stream from where we started. I found it hard to believe we had come up so far. We moved into a shaded clearing for a lunch of cheese, salami and bread, all cut using Tono's gaucho knife, and his leather chaps as a table cloth.
That night we stayed in a Gaucho hut that was certainly authentic; it had been in Tono's family for over 50 years.
We had an amazing asado - with some of the nicest beef I've ever eaten. None of us had plates or cutlery, it was all cut up on the chopping board and we all ate from that.
After much wine, singing, music and chatting (as well as a few more layers of clothing) we were all ready for bed.
The next morning we got up early and, although we didn't quite make the sunrise, the mists hanging over the mountains, and the colours of the early morning clouds were beautiful and breathtaking. As we huddled with our sleeping bags wrapped round us, the clouds came over the mountains behind us and the feeling was magical.
I hadn't planned to go horse riding in the mountains, but I'm glad I did. I can honestly say that it was one of the best experiences of my life.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33008 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33007 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33007 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33004 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33004 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33001 Visitors are welcome at the ranch house where they stay alongside the vaqueros. For the next few days, you can accompany the vaqueros as they milk the cows, prepare traditional (and very filling!) meals and ride horseback through the exquisite tropical forests and lagoons filled with exotic birds, monkeys and caimans!
It's a fascinating insight into a really unique way of life, and an unexpected way to spend your time in the Amazon. I'm no expert at horse riding, but I really felt at home with my new cowgirl lifestyle by the end of the trip!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33001 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32993 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32993 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32992 I lived in Santa Cruz province in Argentina for three months, doing all sorts of jobs, sometimes accompanied by nothing but the starriest skies of the world and what you are telling yourself is not a puma but the distant sound of an American V8. There are so many ranches that have a bed and a horse for you if you wholeheartedly chip in. Check out WWOOFs homepage and get lookin’! The membership fee is almost symbolic and goes to a collective cause. Gauchos are stubborn but welcoming and always ready to share a mate of mate and their all-remedious humour with you. Although I strongly recommend staying for some time and working, ranch owners usually encourage you to spend at least two weeks with them before packing up. Are you only passing through Antoine and the neighbouring ranch owners also offer to take you around on horse back for up to weeklong trips at a set fee.

Quickest way to get there is by plane, other options being the sleeper bus (where the options are many and although slow, it is comfortable). Airfares are not appalling and Aerolineas Argetinas and LADE are good options. To get to Gobernador Gregores, do as I did. Fly to Rio Gallegos, hop on the bus towards El Bolsón and wake up happy in Gregores about 8 hours later. Taxis are available from the bus station if you need to be taken out to any of the farms. Taxi drivers know the surrounding ranch owners by name, but out of courtesy I advise you to contact them before hand. Spanish is not a must, but you may at times feel panicky without it.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32992 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32985 Staying at lower altitude, with its warmth, oxygen, shops that sell stuff you need was really useful, as was the vast improvement in cuisine.
Two days after my arrival I booked to go riding on a ranch an hour south of Salta.
There I met the family, who'd farmed the area for generations. Their herdsmen showed me the horses. They were huge, magnificent beasts, far larger than anything I'd previously ridden. I was given one, and we set out. A full day's riding destroyed me. The herdsmen rode their horses like they were attached to them, effortlessly and painlessly. I tried to keep up. A mountain of a horse, galloping at full speed is something of beauty and also of terror as you hold the reins with one hand, balance with the other behind you and grip the horse with your thighs.
I've rarely been filled with such terror and exhilaration. I am a novice horse rider so the horse seemed to have control of the situation, adding further to the sense that I had less control over the situation than I would have liked to have.
I survived. The gaucho's were great, interesting guy's who loved their horses and their lives. I ate that evening with the family. The father was in charge of grilling the most perfect meat (beef and lamb) and the table was covered with delicious food and gorgeous local wine.
I ached afterward for a week! My tip is warm up, warm down and maybe select a horse that is small and is almost ready for the big ranch in the sky. You may not have the adrenaline based excitement, but at least you may be able to walk again.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32985 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32984 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32984 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32962 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32962 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32919 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32919 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32525 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32525 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32059 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32059 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28046 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28046 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28038 I spend three days riding with them and both the horses and the guides were first class.
The first morning I was woken at dawn to the sound of wild parrots being fed before tucking into eggs benedict, cooked to perfection by the B&B owner.
The horses - stunning Australian stock horses - were already saddled up and ready to go when I reached the stable. Myself and the other guest were led by the owners Alex (a triple Olympian no less) and Rebecca through the Noosa Trail Network, which is something to envy when compared to our bridle paths. But the high point was riding on the beaches at Noosa - the soft sand went on forever.
After a full days riding the evenings were spent in fantastic restaurants enjoying the fresh produce of Queenland. I highly recommend the Thais on the main street in Noosa.
The ride is well designed and any level of rider can enjoy it. The horses were the fittest horses I've ridden and so forward going I could just go with the flow - no work involved.
Equathon have lots of itineraries to choose from, so if you'd like to sample some real ozzy horsemanship combined with great hospitably this is a great choice.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28038 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28036 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28036