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The Camargue, a triangular area of flat land between Arles and the Mediterranean coast, is western Europe's most expansive river delta.
It is a dreamscape of ever changing light and mesmerisingly shifting perspectives, comprising shallow lagoons, pastures, salt marshes, dunes, beaches, and saline lakes (called étangs in the Languedoc). It is best explored on horseback or by bicycle.
The area is famous for its Camargue black bulls; the indigenous Camargue white horses; and spectacular flocks of pink flamingos.
The Camargue bulls have been bred for Course Camarguise, a traditional sport where young rasateurs chase a Camargue bull and compete to remove the cockade or rosettes pinned between its horns.
The Camargue horses, one of the oldest breeds in the world, are coloured dark brown or black at birth, but turn white after about three years. Used in rounding up Camargue bulls, they are particularly suited to surviving in the wild.
"I heard a sudden harmony of hooves,
And, turning, saw afar
A hundred snowy horses unconfined,
The silver runaways of Neptune's car
Racing, spray-curled, like waves before the wind."
From 'Horses on the Camargue'
by Roy Campbell
www.parc-camargue.fr/
www.carrentalzone.com/la-camargue.html
Google map: tinyurl.com/2vtvqon
Several men on my tour of the National Stud cast envious glances at the stallions. Glossy as prize conkers, these alpha males are champions which have repeatedly proved their worth. While they remain virile and fertile, they are in constant demand to pass on their winning genes.
Richard, our guide, explained that artificial insemination is out of the question. It’s to do with the lineage of the thoroughbred - they all trace back to one of three famous Arabian stallions imported into England in the 17th and 18th centuries. Fortunately for the stallions, the money stakes are so high that establishing parentage visually is crucial.
The spick-and-span stud is so huge - 500 acres - that our group of eight are in a minibus. "Take as many photos as you like,” said Richard. “This is a wonderful opportunity to see what is usually a secret world where the public aren’t welcome. I should add, I work on racecourses for the bookies too, but I still can’t pick a winner!”
He explained that the mares we see in the fields are boarding or brought in to foal here. As all race horses share a 1 January birthday, mares are tricked into ovulation by artificial light and warmth - to ensure foals are born earlier than nature would dictate.
We were allowed to pat the winner of the 2004 Grand National Amberleigh House over his fence, feed him peppermints and pose in turn next to his still-feisty and handsome head.
Too valuable to be allowed to roam, five stallions are housed in their own immaculate unit, each with their pedigree displayed like royalty. “Don’t touch - they will bite” warned Richard as a nose snuffled behind a metal grid.
We crowded reverently to watch Paddy grooming Myboycharlie. “If anyone but Paddy was in there with him that horse would make mincemeat of them. But it’s not a love thing with stallions and Paddy - it’s mutual respect. And incidentally, while stallions may love mares - they prefer men to women.”
Richard showed us the unit for visiting mares - each stallion has up to eight daily appointments - and points out a dip in the bedding where a stallion of shorter stature can gain a height advantage. He showed us a heavy mantle worn by the mares to prevent shoulder bites from amorous lovers, and explained that shoes are removed from hind feet. The covering fee can be up to £65,000, but is only paid once pregnancy is confirmed.
www.nationalstud.co.uk
Tours daily at 11.15 and 2pm.
Adults £7, each tour lasts 75 minutes
Close to Buenos Aires, front door pickup, great people, great food, great horses, great lodging, not a tourist trap and very reasonably priced.
RP 193 , Km 10.5 Zarate / escalada
Km 10,5 Escalada, Cuartel IV Buenos Aires 2800
Argentina
Tel: 54 (011) 4765 4320
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