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About 8km out of Pai are hot springs. Apparently many of the hotels and resorts have tapped into these as part of their “spa treatments” – again one is tempted to draw some loose comparisons here - if Chiang Mai is Thailand’s Stratford -on-Avon, then Pai is its Bath or Cheltenham.
Anyway forget about palatial classical buildings housing marbled baths - this place is an open stream in the middle of a wood.
Having parked and paid ( I think it is one of those places that charges about 200 baht - ten times extra for foreigners!) I walked up through a wooded valley. It was forested with a teak plantation but nearer the stream natural vegetation ruled – including some extraordinary phallic flowers (like red hot pokers) that protruded about three or four feet straight up from the ground, with garish green and orange tops. Apart from the plant life around the stream there were a lot of algae in the water - amazing how nature can evolve to such extreme environments. The stream from the hot springs flowed down through the valley in a series of pools. These pools were labelled and some had planks forming crude benches over them to allow bathers access.
First of all we walked up to the top were the hot water emerged. On first arriving we had noticed people buying what appeared to be eggs in a net bag – we now understood why, taken up to the top you could dip them in the water for a few minutes and cook them. Mists hung eerily over the water, the only indication of how hot it was until you looked into the pools and saw the water bubbling and shimmering with heat. A low timber wall had been set up to deter folk from thoughtlessly taking a dip in that scolding water.
As we walked back down the valley the heat was dissipated somewhat and my companion took a liking to a pool labelled “Mineral Bath” - he duly stripped down to swimming trunks, in his bag he had packed towel etc. – for those less prepared, I noticed there were rustic wooden screens to change behind at a discrete distance for the water. He lowered himself in, I dangled a toe in - my god! It was still hot!
My friend managed to sit in in this pool up to his neck for quite a long time, apparently without any discomfort. The only other people to brave this part of the stream were some rather large Germans poaching quietly away in a pool just up stream a little – eventually I managed to dip my feet in for a few seconds – maybe a minute or so, but it was too hot for me, full body submersion was out of the question, at least in that pool.
About 20 minutes out of Pai - you can hire a bike.
Or your hotel will arrange a trip out for you.
We stayed at Baan Tawaan. www.baantawan-pai.com/
Whether you go for a budget public bathe, or to the luxurious hotel spa, you can benefit from the Ma'in hot springs. High thermal waterfalls - nature's ultimate power shower - blissfully toasty pools and an underground rock sauna all soothe and relax. Go during Jordan's cool season - stepping into 40 degree water from 35 degree air isn't fun - and soak up some winter destressing.
Jett bus goes daily from Amman or hire a taxi to take you there in style. Two hours scenic drive from Amman you can go via the mountains and return by the Dead Sea Highway.
www.sixsenses.com/evason-ma-in/
P.O. Box 801 Madaba, 11117 Ma'In, Jordan.
+962 5 324 5500
Google map: bit.ly/eFpQ3k
By now it must be obvious that I'm hopelessly in love with Tuscany and its fabulous vistas, and Montecatini Terme doesn't disappoint at all.
Though the springs and spas that sprung up around them draw a fair bit of business, it's much less touristy than many other places in Tuscany one can hit. And why argue with a place where I can enjoy hot springs AND Tuscan cuisine?
At Ercolini & Savi, I was treated not only to a lovely stay by another warm, welcoming staff, but the restaurant was just FABULOUS. And when not eating in the hotel they were very kind with recommendations. Since they helped organize so much for me and gave me a stress free holiday I promised them I'd spread the word!
Via S. Martino 18 - 51016 - Montecatini Terme (PT)
Booked like most of my trip through my new best friends: www.italiancollection.com/en/ercolini-savi.html
Popular since Roman times, the hot springs in Alhama are a must-see. Adjacent to the spa hotel where you can have a whole range of treatments, there are four natural hot spring pools which you can enjoy for free day or night. Relax under the trees and let the minerals in the waters rejuvenate you. Recommended early in the morning or last thing at night.
Balneario
18120 Alhama de Granada
You'll find these in the small town of Kremmling, Colorado which you could drive through in about five seconds really if you felt that way inclined. But just off the main road is Hot Sulphur Springs, a spa complex based around natural springs of differing temperatures. Some are as tiny as a paddling pool, others are great rock pools and everyone is very friendly so if you can stand the heat you could stay there chatting for ages.
One warning - the smell, although you get used to it once you're there, it lingers for a spectacularly long time! Kind of worth it though as you do feel a million dollars when you leave.
Near Kremmling, about 70 miles from Denver, Colorado
The crown jewel of Austin. Check out this spring-fed pool that is 68F all year round.
In Zilker Park off Lamar in South Austin.
A guesthouse run by by Brits for a cosmopolitan and sporty crowd. The purpose-built accommodation is five minutes outside of a tiny village called Santa Cruz, near to Alhama de Granada.
Geoff and Sally the hosts can recommend local bars and restaurants, or serve a dinner of local produce and wine on request.
They also provide walking and cycling suggestions which we thought were fantastic, and meant that we saw a lot more of the local area than we had expected to manage.
The hotel is near enough to the Sierra Nevada ski resort to be on the slopes in just over an hour apparently.
Alhama de Granada itself is a spa town and has hot springs which you can cycle to. Local families use them by day and they are a favourite chillout spot post-clubbing.
www.elamparo-granada.com
Cortijo Lorenzo, Santa Cruz del Comercio, 181292 Granada
Tel: 00 34 628 96 7755
Geothermal activity abounds in Taiwan, and it's clearly evident around the suburb of Beitou.
I tried the more expensive, private hot springs experience, but preferred the public option. As well as being much cheaper, I felt more comfortable at the outdoor public baths.
While the private baths are segregated according to gender to allow for "uninhibited" nudity, the unisex public baths, where patrons wear swimming costumes, seemed a lot more laid-back and I felt there was a much more genuinely local vibe. Get down and relax with the people, I say.
Zhongshan Road, near Xin Beitou MRT train station
When Banff National Park was created in 1883, the hot springs were the main attraction. Tired railway workers soothed their limbs in the hot mineral water and a spa was soon built to cater to tourists.
It's a national historic site where you can visit the caves.
No trip to Yame Town is complete without a dip in the hot spring and a glass of the locally grown green tea. At Bengalmura, you can combine the two. This small onsen resort has been open for less than ten years, but already pulls in custom from all parts of Kyushu. The main complex boasts six or seven different baths, both indoors and out, and if you're game enough you might even brave the electric tub. The vibrating gentleman with the involuntary twitch was enough to keep me away, but the green tea bath (with the comedy-sized teabag) was worth the money alone.
Buses leave from the Horikawa Bus Station, opposite JR Hainuzuka Station
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