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This walking tour shows not only the religious traditions of the Hungarian Jews but the mutuality with the Hungarian history and evolution. It covers the history of the largest synagogue in Europe, leads through the cemetery and the memorial garden, 3 other precious places of worship and the hidden Jewish symbols of the neighborhood. The most authentic local pubs and cultural centers will also be seen which are the top meeting points for party people in Budapest.
The guides are really good, enthusiastic and motivated, as they work on a tips only payment.
Vörösmarty square M1 metro stop (in front of Gerbeaud café at the fountain) Tue,Thrs,Sat 3.30 p.m
www.triptobudapest.hu
A little restaurant in the heart of Krakow's old Jewish ghetto, this is a slightly bonkers but very endearing place to dine. The menu is simple, with possibly no more than a dozen dishes including starters, mains and desserts. And be advised, if you order a plate of pirogi (the local dumplings) then you get just that. 'Just' that: no salad, sides, or even sauce. Despite this the food is delicious (I can also recommend the duck with cranberry).
The decor is quirky, full of history, and the tables are an eclectic mix of old sewing desks and things which resemble small workbenches.
While my girlfriend and I were there they had a band, doing instrumental classic pop covers as an accordion and electric organ-playing duo. My personal favourite: a brilliantly catchy version of Stevie Wonder's 'Sir Duke'. Genius.
The main square in Krakow's Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz
The Nozyk Synagogue is the only synagogue in Warsaw that survived the war. It is located in an area of Warsaw that was originally inside the Little Ghetto in 1940, but was later outside the Ghetto after it was made smaller, following deportations.
Out of thousands of synagogues in Poland, there are only about 245 remaining. All of the unique wooden synagogues were destroyed, although some 17th century wooden Catholic churches remain to this day. The Nozyk synagogue was named for the man who founded it in 1900, Zalman ben Menasze Nozyk, and his wife Rywka bat Mosze (some guidebooks say it was founded in 1902).
Today services are held here every Friday night and every Saturday. Inside, you will see the interior of a moderately wealthy synagogue from turn-of-the-century Warsaw, with the cabinet containing the Torah scrolls and the bema (or pulpit) in the nave. The upper galleries are set aside for women.
6 Twarda St, Warschau 00-104, Polen
Tel.: 48-22-620 3496
A lovely little Jewish/Greekish deli in the Jewish part of the Marais. They have a cosy little restaurant attached where you can select from the deli items. Great value for money, high quality and very tasty. Plenty of Parisien(ne)s.
2, Rue Hospitalières St Gervais
75004 Paris, France
+33 1 42 72 18 86
Great place - Krakow's Jewish quarter, and no stag parties, well, I didn't see any.
The Tempel synagogue is a must-see, lots of nice cafes and bars as well. A friend of mine told me about this website - www.jewishkrakow.net - got lots of information on Kazimierz, but it seems like it's just got started so lacks information on hotels and the like. Looks promising though.
Kazimierz is about 15/20 minute walk from the Krakow's main market square, alternatively get a tram,, 2.50 zloty for a one way ticket, or a taxi, 10-15zloty from the main market.
The name is - fortunately - nothing to do with János Kádár, Hungary's last Communist leader, the surname Kádár is quite common (and means 'cooper'). Kádár Étkezde (bistro) is a fabulous little lunch venue in the heart of the historic Jewish district in central Pest. It's packed with locals enjoying the non-kosher Jewish home cooking; great matzo ball soup, crisp duck leg with spicy red cabbage or boiled beef with a range of fruit sauces (gooseberry, sour cherry, horseradish) served on a ceramic all-in-one airplane style plates. Uncle Tibi personally greets regulars from the neighbourhood as they pile in and tots up the bill at the end. The walls of the crowded room are crammed with photos (many autographed) of Hungarian actors and athletes as well as other fans of the bistro including Marcello Mastroiani. Sip málna szörp (raspberry cordial) at this non-alcoholic eaterie or help yourself from the old-fashioned soda water bottles on every table. The waitresses are the kindest and most efficient in Budapest, the menu is only in Hungarian, and you'll have to share a table but that's part of the atmosphere. The last time I ate there, the elderly lady sipping soup at my table had numbers tattooed on her arm. This was a sudden, brutal, unexpected reminder of Hungary's shocking history.
Kádár Étkezde
Klauzál tér 9
District VII
Budapest
Open Tues-Sat 11.30-15.30
Tel: (+36 1) 321 3622
To get there: Take tram 4 & 6 to Király utca stop.
Prices: Soup 300 forints, main dishes 500-800 forints, cash only, no CC.
Lodz was once the Jewish hub of Poland. However, the Nazis set up a ghetto in the north of the city, in Baluty. You can see traces of the ghetto following the ghetto trail which starts from Piotrkowska Street. You can also visit one of Europe's largest Jewish cemeteries, which has graves of those who developed this young city in the 19th century.
I took a private guide that took me through "Jewish" Berlin, but also gave me a lot more. I've read a (good) guide book before, but he took us to places that weren't in the book and demonstrated knowledge about other things (we've asked him about restaurants, politics in Germany today, etc). The guide's name is Nadav. He is a grad student and also active in the Jewish community there.
I certainly recommend the private tour (it is also not that expensive, and you get a guide all for yourself, in your tempo and customized).
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