As its name suggests, simple and homely Koldunine specialises in koldunai, ravioli-like dumplings which are basically the Lithuanian version of Polish pierogi or Russian pelmeni. I popped in for lunch and tried koldunai filled with potato, which were much tastier than they sound. The service was quick and friendly, and if I had more time in Vilnius, I would have definitely gone back. Koldunai is not a gourmet restaurant, but it’s a good option for lunch or when you’ve built up an appetite after sightseeing. The food is tasty and authentic, and doesn’t cost much either.

Savičiaus g. 6,
+370 679 26259
Google map: bit.ly/U5X4gW

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Coffee Inn is ubiquitous in Vilnius (and in Riga too), and I stopped by a few times. I really enjoyed the coffee and filling hot chocolate, and the small range of snacks included cheesecake, which was some of the best I’ve ever eaten. Coffee Inn was reasonably priced, and the staff were friendly.
While I instinctively prefer individually-owned coffee shops, this establishment seemed a bit more than just another you-could-be-anywhere chain. For example, I visited two branches in Vilnius (and two in Riga), and each one was different. Most had a random assortment of very comfy, mismatched chairs, and some had a small but diverse collection of books, which you could read at large tables, giving the coffee shops a slightly Bohemian feel. And the branch at Gedimino 2 is actually inside a bookshop. A good place for a quick stop-off, but equally good if you’re in no hurry.

www.coffee-inn.lt
Branches throughout Vilnius including at Gedimino pr. 2, Pilies g. 3 and Vokiečių g. 18

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Be sure to visit the only synagogue in Vilnius and also the Jewish Museum about a mile away on the same street, where there is a room dedicated to the Righteous Gentiles. Before WW2 there were over 100 synagogues, and now there is only one.

Naugarduko g. 10/2, LT-01141, Vilnius
+370 5 231 23 57
www.jmuseum.lt
Google map: bit.ly/iM8QGO

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The National Gallery of Art in Vilnius is one of my favourites. Housed in a contemporary building on the bank of the River Neris, it traces the history of modern Lithuania through art. There is no forgotten Picasso or must-see Monet here to distract you, all the permanent works are 20th and 21st century Lithuanian. A combination of paintings, photography, installations, video and graphic art combine to show the effects that World War II, Soviet occupation, the Cold War and revolution had on art, and the Lithuanian people. There’s some really good stuff here, and all for 6 litas (£1.50).

Konstitucijos Ave. 22, LT-08105, Vilnius, Lithuania
+37 (0)5212 2997
www.ldm.lt/NDG/Index_en.htm
Google map: bit.ly/gvu18V

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Former Gestapo/KGB prison from the 1940s to 1990.
The prison downstairs is still intact and makes for grim viewing.
One interesting point is that while the building was controlled by the Gestapo between 1941 - 1944 from where they ran the Holocaust in Lithuania with their Lithuanian accomplices, very little coverage is given to this in the museum.
Still an essential part of your visit to Vilnius.

Aukų g. 2a, LT-01113, Vilnius
+370 5 249 81 55
www.muziejai.lt/vilnius/genocido_auku_muziejus.en.htm

www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2010/sep/14/double-genocide-lithuania-holocaust-communism

Google map: bit.ly/gBjYl3

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Really decent bar just off the main Vilniaus street.
As with all pubs we visited, very relaxed and friendly.

J. Naugardo 17 off Vilniaus street, on the right hand side as you come from the old town square.

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Good cafe and wine bar at the heart of Kaunas Old Town.
As the name suggests, very much influenced by Italy.

Vilniaus str.34 / L. Zamenhofo str. 13
Google map: bit.ly/fzaqq2

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On 14 May 1972, a student Romas Kalanta killed himself by setting himself alight in the City Garden (Miesto Sodas) in protest at Soviet occupation in a similar way to the better known Jan Palach in Prague in 1969.
A memorial comprising 19 stones (one for each of the years of his short life) is laid out in the park.

At the City Garden (Miesto Sodas) off the main pedestrian steet Laisves Aleja.
Google map: bit.ly/hd1oKs

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A bar that sells good cheap food as well.
Pints from £1 and mains from £3-£4, there were no complaints here.

Vilniaus 16 (a short walk from old twon square)
(+370) 37 22 11 82
Open 11.00 - 24.00
www.crazyhouse.lt/

Google map: bit.ly/eEWybN

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Lithuania's answer to Starbucks.

One branch located in Vilniaus 18.
verocafe.wordpress.com/vero-cafe-vilniaus-g-18-kaunas-nauja/
Google map: bit.ly/hX7bLm

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Seen as one of the best hotels in Kaunas. Only just behind the old town square and leading onto the most happening street (Vilniaus) the location is perfect.
Very friendly and we paid 40€ a night when we booked.

8 V. Kuzmos gatvė, Kaunas LT-44280
+370 37 22 99 81
www.ambertonhotels.com/kaunas
Google map: bit.ly/dHHnjY

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Unpretentious bar, popular with students and other 'alternative' 20-somethings.
Pints at about £1.
And one other thing. The name is short for Blue Orange.

9 Muitinės gatvė, Kaunas 44001
Just a stone's throw from old town square.
+370 37 20 65 42
Open: 09.30 - 02.00 (until 3.00 on Fri & Sat). Not surprisingly does not open until 15.00 on Sunday.
Google map: bit.ly/dRhTTQ

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Located in the town hall square, this restaurant is seen as one of the better establishments in Kaunas. Yet to UK pockets this is not at all an expensive establishment. We paid 63 Lt for two starters and mains.
The restaurant itself resembles a Medieval manor house.
When we were there in November the menu included roe deer sausage, wild boar as well as game. Fish was also on menu.

10 Rotušės aikšte, Kaunas 44001 (on old town square)
+370 37 32 09 56
Open 11.00 - 24.00
www.medziotojai.lt/

Google map: bit.ly/gawiy4

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A massive shopping centre with all the western brands you need under one roof.
The pity is that it has killed trade in the centre of the town especially on the main avenue Laisves aleja.

www.akropolis.eu/
+370 5 248 80 61
Vilnius 07004, Lithuania
Google map: bit.ly/fYBTKV

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Very popular bar on main route off the old town square.
Food is nothing special (though cheap by UK standards) but a great place for a drink or coffee.

Vilniaus 24
(+370) 650 365 06
Google map: bit.ly/gn9nSL

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Well worth drinking!
Favourites is the Svyturys brand (from Klaipeda on the coast).
Only £1 a pint in Lithuania.

Every pub...or nearly every pub!

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Early 20th century Russian fort, part of the defences used to defend the western flank of the Russian Empire.
However its claim to infamy is as a site of mass murder of the Jews by the Nazis and their Lithuanian helpers.
Figures of the number of people murdered here differ but anything upwards of 30,000 were killed and buried in pits on this site.
It was not just Lithuanian Jews killed here but also Jews from France.
One of the original prison buildings remains as well as a giant Soviet era memorial to those killed here. Within the prison building you will see where Abraham Wechsler of Limoges etched into the wall before his untimely death: 'We are 500 Frenchmen.'
On your way you will probably pass through the old Jewish ghetto area on the west bank of the Neris river bounded by Jurbarko, Paneriu and Demokratu streets.
Interesting article by Jonathan Freedland when he visited this site:
www.guardian.co.uk/commentisfree/2010/sep/14/double-genocide-lithuania-holocaust-communism

Žemaičių pl. 73, LT-47435, Kaunas
+370 37 37 77 50
A few miles (7) outside the city off a motorway on the north western outskirts. Really have to get a taxi here.
Open daily 10.00 - 18.00 (except Tuesday). Admission 5 / 3Lt (about £1).
muziejai.mch.mii.lt/Kaunas/forto_muziejus.en.htm
www.jewishvirtuallibrary.org/jsource/Holocaust/Kuanas2.html
Google map: bit.ly/ehCf1D

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With Ryanair setting up a new base in Kaunas, this is very much the cheapest way of getting to Vilnius.
Vilnius is only 1.5 - 2 hours away from Kaunas by train and costs about £4 each way.
Having said that Kaunas is worth a visit itself for it's old town and Nazi era 9th Fort concentration camp.

English language website for train times can be found at www.litrail.lt though they do tend to change train times frequently.

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Good bar in the old town in Kaunas. Seems to be very popular with students. Locally brewed pints come in around £1, with Guiness at £1.50

Vilniaus street - on the left hand side as you come from old town square.
Google map: bit.ly/e5yRbS

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The 'in your pocket' series of guidebooks are well worth recommending. The guides are written by locals and are updated on a regular basis.
Even better, they are free and can be downloaded as PDFs from the website.

www.inyourpocket.com/lithuania/kaunas

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