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My daughter and I reached Aleppo's souk by bus from Damascus, then by walking through progressively narrower streets, pretty much following the throng.
It was pistachio season and photogenic trays of nuts were on sale right and left. But the souk is great for not bring a tourists' pastiche. It has many rope stalls, plenty of domestic items - much like a UK everyday market with added panache and intimacy.
We ate rich, hot foule (beans with tahini and oil) in a cramped servery with men having their lunch break; then chatted to a young jeweller - I wear his earrings, inlaid with tiny dots of silver, back home in the Midlands. He then recommended a fabric shop and my front door now has a curtain embroidered with pomegranates.
The souk isn't enormous, but is a working place shot through with the skills and traditions of an ancient city.
To top it all you can climb up the ancient settlement and look out over the city, or just meander back to the bus chewing apricots, munching pistachios or pondering more textile purchases in the less atmospheric shops. Syria's many things, including tough for many, but here's a trip in which the old Middle East abuts the new and for that it sticks always in the mind.
Easy from arrival in Aleppo.
Google map: bit.ly/95ynN8
Make an effort to see a Berber market outside the big cities of Fes and Marrakech and get away from touts and tourists, while soaking up more of Morocco's great countryside and culture.
30km away from Fes is Sefrou (take a shared 'grand taxi' from Bab Ftouh), where Berbers come from outlying areas to ply their wares at the Thursday souq.
The same distance away from Marrakech, lies the town of Ourika (Dar Caid Ourika) which comes alive on Monday with everything from Berber haircuts to giant haystacks for sale. You can take a bus from behind the tourist police in Marrakech.
With your back to the south entrance of the Umayyad Mosque, walk down the small souk facing you. It's the old Gold Souk, aka souk Al Sagha. Look for a sign to "Papa Joseph's", an antique knick-knack shop on the right-hand side above a perfume shop, and follow the narrow stairs all the way up to the shop. From outside the shop, you can look over the lane into partly-excavated Roman baths not seen from street level. The shop keepers keep their generators in the enclave, but it is still easy to see how the Romans built beautiful baths for the brief time the Umayyad Mosque was a church.
Souq Assagha, just off Souq Al Hamidiyeh
Google map: bit.ly/a8cLU1
Even if it's a Friday and the souks - in whichever country - are closed, it's worth wandering around them to appreciate their architecture. The bustle of shoppers and shopkeepers often means that it's hard to see interesting details. In Damascus, where the souks are not closed off when the shops are shut on Fridays, walkers can glimpse fragments of tiles, amazing ceilings, and shop signs not easy to spot on other days.
Google map: bit.ly/a8cLU1
Take time out from the whirl of Istanbul's Grand Bazaar by stepping out on to its beautiful rooftop, and admiring the rows of domes from above. Climb the stairs in the courtyard opposite Cebeci Han.
Secondly, a totally authentic and cheap place for late breakfast or lunch in the bazaar is Onur Pilic (meaning "Honour Chicken"). This hole-in-the-wall serves delicious "menemen", scrambled eggs with tomato, cheese and green peppers served with French bread. Even better - ask for slices of chicken from the doner above to be placed on top, add chili flakes and enjoy.
Cebeci Han, Grand Bazaar.
Onur Pilic, Kavaflar Sokak 49, Grand Bazaar.
Google maps: bit.ly/9FKauZ
If you want to visit and experience a real, non-touristy market this is the place to go. This is a lesser-known traditional Moroccan market used mainly by locals. You can buy souvenirs for yourself and your home as well as gifts for friends and relatives at a cheaper price than elsewhere.
Only a few minutes' taxi ride from the main tourist areas.
Ask for Casabarata. Also next to the market is an historic Mosque.
Google map: bit.ly/91NUOt
There are some lovely local markets in and around Cape Town, that offer unique crafts, books, delicious things to eat, or places to just hang out. Try Hout Bay market, the Montebello Design Centre or the slow market at Willowbrige.
We definitely experienced the real Gambia in our tremendous three week stay in February-March 2009. We were based in Brikama, a medium-sized town about 20 kms inland from the Atlantic and an hour south of the capital Banjul. It’s a fascinating town with a vibrant feel but none of the tourist-area trappings and hassles.
People are very hospitable and very warm to strangers – especially those who are respectful and show a genuine interest in life there.
Our host, Abdoulie Sarr, was a young entrepreneur whose aims are to create a range of locally-based enterprises to enable visitors to genuinely engage in the life of an area: get to know local people in depth; learn something of a local language; be part of local events; explore the beautiful country areas, learn about a different culture and exchange experiences; and to spend their money in ways that benefit local people rather than international tour operators.
He provided excellent quality accommodation and three substantial meals a day while we were in Brikama. Breakfast consisted of a choice of very tasty rice porridge or omelette delivered to our accommodation every morning and we had the option of having the other meals brought to us or of eating with his family. My travelling companion is vegetarian and we thought this could be a bit of a problem; nothing could be further from the truth. He was served excellent food with his ‘not even fish’ requirements fully respected and catered for.
Eating with the family was much more fun and gave us the opportunity of spending time talking with people and playing with the children. In fact, we spent a lot of time just talking and debating a wide range of subjects and laughing a lot– a real exchange!
Brikama is a fascinating town to explore and Abdoulie’s relaxed but efficient style meant we could go it alone or have him take us to specific locations of interest.
We wanted to see the country and Abdoulie organised a three-day trip into the interior travelling by local transport and combining road and river journeys. We enjoyed travelling in the normal vehicles that Gambians used and not in luxury coaches or 4X4s – much more real.
Our trip took in the Wassu Stone Circles (evidence of ancient civilisation here); the wonderful Janjanbureh Camp with its perfect location on the River Gambia and good quality accommodation and food; the historic towns of Janjanbureh and Kuntaur, the bustling ‘crossroad’ town of Farafenni, the riverside Tendaba camp and the rural villages along the country’s South road.
Abdoulie was an excellent guide with a wealth of local knowledge and contacts which made the trip run smoothly and tailored to what we wanted to see we never felt we were being herded along on a package tour.
Back in Brikama we became familiar with the local music scene seeing a number of bands and talking with the musicians. Brikama is major centre for music using the Kora.
The trip was a mind-altering experience into the way of life of a country with wonderful people and beautiful scenery in which the hospitality was outstanding and where we felt welcome and safe at all times.
At the end we felt we had had a real experience and had got to know a place and some of its people in depth – a place that is now very special.
Contact details
Abdoulie Sarr provides a range of tailor-made options for accommodation, travel and local experiences across The Gambia and we highly recommend his professional yet personal approach.
Contact: Abdoulie Sarr Tel 00220-7722099/6720999;
email Abdouliesarr@hotmail.com
Huge concrete building packed with market stalls selling fish.
Fresh stuff gets snapped up early (4am) in the morning by chefs, but whatever time you get there you can choose your catch and have restaurants in the same building cook it up for you.
Prices are marked so you won't get ripped off (although there's always a little room for haggling) and it's all very photogenic.
Subway Line 1- Noryangjin station (follow the map in the subway station when you arrive).
If you're looking for gifts or souvenirs which are uniquely spanish but not tacky or generic you must visit El Arco Artesano on the Plaza Mayor. A whole range of prices and everything beautiful, handmade and local. I got myself a gift of some earrings and a beautiful scarf; a perfect reminder of this place with out having to have "Spain" or "toro" written all over it. Lots of accessories, homewares, decorative items etc. Fantastic.
El Arco Artesano
Plaza Mayor 9 (in the corner tucked in beside Ben and Jerry's icecream)
Spending Christmas in such a metropolitan area like Rome is really wonderful. Italy has a very romantic feel to it with its cobbled pavements, cozy cafes and historic landmarks. The Colosseum looks even better during the festive period, with a beautifully adorned tree that sits on its doorstep. There are also plenty of other things to see during this time of year besides the landmarks, including choirs, Christmas markets (like in the Piazza Navona) and Catholic mass on Christmas Eve. Just a wonderful time of the year to be in Italy.
Various; Rome City Centre
On Monday mornings there is a great flea market called Noordermarket which is fantastic for second hand retro clothing.
There is a general market on Saturdays on Lindengracht (parallel to Noordermarkt) selling everything from the mundane to the exotic and on Monday mornings the market specialises in cheap and cheerful materials.
Both are great places to mingle with the locals.
It's at the top end of Prinsengracht.
Wonder where all that lovely French grub comes from?
Get up super early and take a trip to the Parisian suburbs, to Rungis, the biggest wholesale fresh food market in France.
Makes Londons' Borough market look like a tiny posh deli.
Visit the flea markets, especially Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen.
Les Halles market is great for a breakfast, stocking up for picnics and ogling the fine fruit, gorgeous bread and sumptous food - at bargain prices.
The Old City is at the heart of modern Jerusalem. It is divided into 4 distinct quarters, each with its own individual character, but the most fun you can have is wandering through the meandering maze of markets in the Arab quarter, haggling with stall owners over the price of a backgammon set or an ashtray whilst listening to their (sometimes rather good) impersonations of Del Boy saying 'luverly jubberly mate'.
The Central and Russian markets deserve an afternoon visit. With a vast array of goods from gold and silks to knick-knacks and locally grown food produce. Haggling is a must, but should always be done with a smile - a bit of very basic Khmer thrown in goes a long way.
Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung)
Central Market (Psah Thmei)
The night markets offer delicious food on a budget and a great atmosphere. Pick up some great satay to share with friends and then wander along the waterfront after a couple of tiger beers.
Little india is also a great place to buy some amazing cheap food and is often thriving in the evening
Various hawker centres tinyurl.com/cu2st
Little India's nearest station is Little India
The Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, a multi-billion rand development, is a really exciting place to be. More importantly for South Africa, it feels a safe place to be.
The Alfred Basin is the working harbour but alongside it is the Waterfront Craft Market, one of South Africa's biggest indoor markets. There is also a Maritime Museum and the Two Oceans Aquarium. The Victoria Basin has a huge amphitheatre and regularly stages free concerts, so there is a background of music as you wander around some of the hundreds of shops and eating outlets. The Red Shed is filled with African crafts, while in the Kings Warehouse the catch of the day is stacked side by side with vegetables, herbs, spices and hand-rolled pasta. The whole atmosphere is colourful and exuberant.
Of course it is from this harbour that you sail to Robben Island, which is an unforgettable experience. The whole island is now a museum and you are actually taken around by men and women who were once political prisoners on the island. A stark reminder that what lies on the mainland is very, very new.
It's a great place to buy clothes and traditional gifts. There are plenty of lanes filled with stalls selling everything from food to Chinese artwork to clothes and bags, and the prices are very reasonable.
Stanley Market Road, Stanley, Hong Kong Island;
Open 9am - 6pm
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