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"I promise this walk is not long and nor is it steep," said Jiwan.
If our recent experience of what a Gorkha regards as an 'easy walk' was anything to go by – a one in three incline through forest and driving rain for eight hours – we were not entirely convinced by Jiwan Rai's assurances. Still, today he was wearing a suit and shirt, black shiny leather shoes and an umbrella hooked over his arm: it couldn't be that difficult, could it?
When we accepted an invitation to stay in Jiwan's family home in the mountains we hadn't realised it would be quite so far off the beaten track. Remote Barranumber village, like many settlements in this region, clings to the side of a mountain miles from the road. The only way to get there is to trek beside the quinine plantations and jungle surrounding Kalimpong. It was too precious an opportunity to miss, so we equipped ourselves with walking boots, sensible trousers and waterproofs. I carried bottled water, cans of beer, a few bananas, biscuits, hats, a good book, torch, loo paper, matches, incense sticks, mosquito coils, spare sheets and the kitchen sink. Jamie carried his camera bag.
A WALK IN THE PARK
We were prepared for vertical climbs, knee wrenching drops, and driving rain, but the weather was sunny and dry, and the walk turned out to be a gentle afternoon amble. We walked in single file: Jiwan at the front, me in the middle on his heels (eyes peeled for snakes), and Jamie lagging behind with his camera. The only noises came from the insects, birds and other small creatures hidden in the trees and undergrowth beside the trail. Stopping on a narrow path with views down into the Rangpo Valley, we could just make out the river sparkling below in the afternoon sun. On the opposite side of the valley Sikkim stretched into the distance.
"Next time you come we will make a camp, catch fish and have a picnic on the riverbank together."
Surrounded by all this pastoral glory I half expected a unicorn or a satyr to come strolling round the corner. Instead a stream of clear, mountain-cooled water running across our path reminded Jiwan that we had beer with us.
"Let's stop and rest," he said, placing our cans mid stream.
BEERS AND BALLOONS
While we waited for the beer to chill Jiwan pulled out some leaves by the roots, explaining that as a boy he used to eat them when he had no water (he used a local word to describe the plant which I can't remember, I don't suppose it would help identify them, but they were fern-like).
“You bite the balloon on the root, here.” He pulled the 'balloon' off and popped it in his mouth.
I bit into the first one and a refreshing liquid burst onto my tongue. It tasted of the mountain. Jamie, not one to shirk a new gourmet experience, spat his out declaring it disgustingly bitter. Jiwan laughed, explaining a little late that, "yes, sometimes they are a bit sour".
When the other two had downed their mountain-cooled tinnies, and I'd had my fill of balloon roots, we continued our idyll. As we entered the village we passed a gardenia bush with a scent so heady it obliterated all its competitors. The top noses at Dior couldn't come up with a more intoxicating fragrance. Jiwan picked us each a bloom and we arrived at his family home smelling of perfumed Parisian courtesans.
DID THE TUDORS LIVE HERE?
Houses of the Lepcha, Nepali and Bhutia tribes are constructed from wooden frames, using local trees. Latticed bamboo is then fixed between the frames and filled with cow dung. At first glance they are indistinguishable from our wattle and daub Medieval buildings at home, and it can be disorientating to see what appear to be Elizabethan houses lining the roads in the Himalaya. The roses, geraniums and other English herbaceous border flowers arranged outside in pots only adds to the familiarity. Sometimes the exteriors are painted in pastel shades, but inside there's no wallpaper or chintz. Instead a kind of slip is painstakingly smoothed over the walls to create an even finish. The corrugated iron roofs, often painted a terracotta colour, are the most obvious difference between our Tudor houses and these Himalayan counterparts.
At the Rai mountain home we drank tea and talked about the village of Barranumber. Containing 90 households, most of its inhabitants work in the quinine plantations for about 2500INR per month (around £35), supplementing their incomes by growing crops on the terraced hillside. But, like everywhere else, changes in the world's climate have reached this small mountain enclave.
"One year recently we had hail stones for two hours," said Premika, Jiwan's sister, "and the villagers lost all their crops."
They have had some good luck, though, with a donation from the Mondo Challenge Foundation. This meant they were able to build their own school a few years ago. All the children from the surrounding villages now have an education, at least up until the age of 11.
In the evening we watched Jiwan's sister-in-law, Kabita, stoke the hearth in preparation for dinner, while her fifteen month old daughter, Sumnima, played in the ashes.
DUNG AND DINNER
Without a whiff of the farmyard, and just like their neighbours' houses, Jiwan's family kitchen is coated in a yellow-ochre smooth cow dung, the low double range appearing to grow out of the floor. Its two open fires gave off plenty of smoke as Kabita's husband, Santa, cooked the food directly on the flames. In the semi darkness we sat on ankle-high stools to eat fresh momos, noodles and pork. Santa plied us with 'Tiger's Milk', a gently fermented maize left to work its magic in a bucket. The baby greedily sucked the opaque liquid from her cup as we moved on to 'Tongba' (millet beer) then 'Rakshi (pronounced 'roxy') a hot version of schnapps.
Later that night we floated back to our room and slid under soft blankets and freshly laundered sheets. As I inhaled the scent from our gardenia blossoms placed on a saucer by the bed, I just had time to notice that the facing window looked directly up the mountain. Then I slipped off into Arcadian dreams.
Apart from managing the Mondo Challenge Foundation in West Bengal, Jiwan's family also runs 'Village Discovery Tours'. This not-for-profit business offers visitors to India the chance to experience how local people live in the eastern Himalaya: stay in a village home, eat home-cooked food, walk in the fields and forests and fish in the river. Any profits are ploughed directly back into the participating villages. The business has been on hold for a year and they are in the process of re-launching the website. If you would like more details please 'contact me here' and I will forward your enquiry. As soon as the website is up and running I will add the details to this page.
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
Contact me, inerantwritersclub@gmail.com, until the Village Discovery Tours website is up and running properly. I will add further details when they are confirmed.
The Alpine Coaster at Hoch Imst, above Imst in the beautiful western Tyrol, claims to be the longest alpine roller coaster in the world. All the fun of tobogganing, but in the sunshine. A memorable day out is to walk through the Rosengarten Gorge from the town centre, which takes you through a rocky ravine with waterfalls to Hoch Imst; rest and enjoy the alpine views on the cable car up the mountainside, take a short hike to the stunningly positioned Muttekopf Hutte for an alpine lunch on the terrace; return down the mountain side at speed in control of your own toboggan on the Alpine Coaster. A fantastic day out in a beautiful area. Other days can be taken up with the sculpture trail at the next village of Tarrenz, visiting the spa pools for a refreshing paddle and visiting the town's Carnival museum.
Imst-Gurgltal is in the western Tyrol, Austria.
A bike tour of the Franschhoek wine valley was one of the highlights of our stay in South Africa's winelands. Eddie picked us up from our hotel and took us on a beautiful scenic tour - taking in vineyards and a reservoir. You get to see parts you probably wouldn't venture to on your own. He's a lovely guy and takes time to explain recent history as well as the origins of the town. The pace was just right - I imagine he could do something more gruelling if that's your thing! There are other options including winetasting by bike.
+27 83 666 7317 edwmey@gmail.com eddiesmountainbike-adventures.webs.com
Monte Amiata offers something beyond stereotypical Tuscany for the discerning visitor. The spectacular summit (1732m) is accessible to most, but it is the slopes of the mountain that hold a special magic. Visit in October and join the locals as they fill their baskets with sweet chestnuts, then take a hike into the forest and, if you’re lucky, you might spot a family of wild boar in search of the same delicacy. At the end of the day you can stop to soak aching muscles in the thermal springs at Bagno san Filippo.
30km SW of Montepulciano
This must be one of the very best mountain restaurants, high above the Passo Pordoi, in the great, majestic bulk of the Dolomites. Sass Pordoi is a very well visited mountain top restaurant, viewing station, and walking base for many reasons. First off it is convenient, easily accessed off the major pass of Passo Pordoi that connects the main resort centres of the region. Second, the journey up is by cable alone, one of the truly great cable car ascents. Third, you can walk for miles, take in the sun, or simply sit back and marvel at the glorious views. Fourth, you can simply marvel at the glorious views. Fifth, well, you get the idea. And, while you are there, you can enjoy proper mountain food. Hearty, nourishing, and with a healthy side plate of views. Oh, did I mention the views. So, a simple menu. Convenient drive for starters, followed by a great cable ascent for our fishiest course of the day, hearty fare with a side of glorious views for main, views for dessert, and maybe a chance to drink some views as you relax afterwards. Stunning.
www.fassaski.com/en/sasspordoi/index.htm
Google map: tinyurl.com/ycoa5l9
Perched on a mountainside watching over the tyrolean village of Alpbach and facing across to the slopes of the Wiedesbernhorn, the Rossmoos is best approached via horse drawn sleigh from the village. The Rossmoos is a charming and wonderful reminder of Austrian hospitality and unpretentious enjoyment. My vegetarian daughter and wife, suffer the stuffed mountain mammals and birds positioned around this home from home, but for the whole family this is an annual pilgrimage that never disappoints.The food and ambience are mutually excellent and even the ageing accordian accompaniment feels just right. Having been warmed throughout and fit to burst, you return to Alpbach by sleigh, stargazing a cloudless night sky.
Gasthof Rossmoos
Familie Moser
A-6236 Alpbach 92/Tirol
Tel.: 05336/5305
www.rossmoos.at/
Google map: tinyurl.com/y8cnqqz
This is a fantastic refuge with a great views of Mont Blanc, at 2352m, a few hours uphill climb from Chamonix. What makes it so great is the food. Their speciality is long cooked Pig's Cheeks, marinated in wine overnight and then slowly braised throughout the day with herbs, garlic and more wine. Served with immaculate roast potatoes it's the perfect fare after a long hard day's mountain walking. And their huge chunks of rustic mountain cheese are worth the visit alone, not to mention their red wine and deserts.
Aiguilles Rouge, Chamonix 4 50 53 49 14
www.refuges.info/point/357/refuge-garde/aiguilles-rouges/refuge-du-lac-blanc/
My diary says it was “a really big one”, which is understandable as the Schilthorn mountain in Switzerland is a whopping 2970 meters. I was actually referring to the last of a series of cable car rides to the peak, so high I eventually just closed my eyes. Apparently on arrival there is a spectacular 360˚ view over glaciers, lakes, and 200 minor mountains including the Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau. All I saw was fog, as I froze on the viewing platform - and this was August. Warmth returned while revolving slowly in the Piz Gloria restaurant, better known as villain Blofeld’s hideout in the 1969 film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service with George Lazenby as 007.
Location scouts found the place half built, and filming was permitted on the condition the restaurant was completed afterwards - financed by the film company. Downstairs, a room shows film clips of dashing ski chases on a loop. If you must, you can have a James Bond buffet and a martini – shaken, not stirred. Naturally.
Piz Gloria Restaurant
The Schilthorn
Switzerland
Last week we walked to Lago Pilato under Monte Vettore in Le Marche, an ancient glacial lake, where legend has it that Pontius Pilate drowned himself. Nowadays it is home to a unique freshwater shrimp.
The circular walk is 20km and quite a challenge in places, but the spectacular scenery makes it all worth while. We have walked various sections of the gran' Anello (a 120km ring) in the Sibillini Mountains of Marche. There is a great map for the area, the 1:25,000 scale Club Alpino Italiano map of Parco Nazionale Dei Monti Sibillini. You can buy it in any local tabacchi around the national park or buy it in advance via www.sibillini-walks.com/index.html.
There is also a guidebook that explains the nine-day route, but if not, try this link where you can buy it direct from the National Park emporio.parks.it/product_info.php
There are some great rifugi (refuges) that you can stay at: www.parks.it/parco.nazionale.monti.sibillini/Esog.php or eat at. Many of them are newly restored.
On our hiking holiday we ate at 3 rifugi at Monte Amandola, at Ragno near Pintura and Il Tribbio at Lake Fiastra and have to say that the food at all was superb.
If you contact the national park they will also arrange a guide if you need it. Alternatively, Spring CAI and the National Park organise excursions and treks. The CAI walks can be found on the board on the right in sarnano as you enter the centro storico. The national park guided walks are listed on this page and need to be prebooked via the email address. www.sibillini.net/chiedi_sibilla/indexVisiteGuidate.html
If you need more information, free walking itineraries or a lovely place to stay on the edge of the park try www.villasanraffaello.com/free-time/marche-hiking-walking.html
www.villasanraffaello.com/index.php
Sarnano, Macerata, Le Marche, Italy
A small town/large village with hardly any tourists - foreign ones that is. Walk one of the several paths up Mount Olympus or take the 15 minutes bus ride to the beach for €2.5 return where you can spend the day with the Greeks on a sunbed with umbrella for the price of a drink.
In the Hotel Mirto, just down from the main square, which is clean and comfortable if a little unexciting, you can get B&B with views of the mountains from your balcony for €30.
Take a cheap flight to Thessaloniki - Easyjet go there on Fridays - and then a bus goes every hour from the Makedonia bus station to Litohoro for €8.
An old mountain world impervious to (or unaware of) the heady modern culture that characterizes the rest of Spain. Well-kept whitewashed villages stuck to the mountainside. Wholesome food, peace and quiet, fabulous for walking holidays, free tapas, good rental cottages, friendly and easy-going.
By hire car or bus from Granada or Malaga Airport. Most popular villages: Capileira, Bubión. Introductory guide to La Alpujarra in www.rusticaltravel.com
We've just spent a superb weekend in wonderful Autumn sunshine here in Le Marche staying at lovely Villa San Raffaello with its great apartments, amazing views and free organic vegetables.
On Friday we visited the lovely medieval town of Sarnano, ate at the excellent Le Clarrise ristorante in the Centro Storico and then dressed up and joined the locals at L'ex disco for Halloween.
The next morning we had to blow away the cobwebs using the local maps of old mule tracks walking in the fantastic Italian rolling hills, past the heady scent of locals making vino cotto (a cooked wine that was first made by in Roman times), past 13th century churches and a 15th century mill.
On Sunday, fuelled by a desire to eat something local and unpretentious, we hiked into the Sibillini mountains and ate at the rifugio (refuge) at Monte Amandola. This is one of a chain of mountain refuges at around 1500 metres, which walkers can eat, drink and stay at. The food was really tasty and included many seasonal dishes, including strozzaprete (literally priest strangler) pasta with truffle and sausage, and succulent lamb cooked on coals. The bill, including wine, coffee and home made tiramisu, was only €13 a head.
Wonderful horseriding opportunities at this Bavarian riding stables located near to Sami. The surrounding area is perfect for exploring the nearby mountain trails and old villages. The horses are beautifully cared for and easy to ride and the owner, Conny, is a welcoming and knowledgable host with a deep love for her horses. All levels are catered for and there's even the option of swimming with your horse in the sea!
cornelia@kef.forthnet.gr
Bavarian Horse Riding Stables
28080 Sami/Koulourata, Cephalonia
+ 30 6977 533203
It's a walk from Ladybower Reservoir to near Baslow in aid of Edale Mountain Rescue. The walk is along the nine main edges in the valley. A great view and day out for a great cause.
You can find details for event on www.nineedges.co.uk
I've written up my experience on www.seanliquorish.co.uk/blog/?p=12.
Houssine is a kind and friendly guide who will arrange a trek to suit your needs. We spent four days walking in the area around Jebel Toubkal, staying in gites/refuges in Berber villages, with a guide (Hassan), a cook (Mohamed) and a very lovely mule (Hasht-hasht). The mule carried our spare clothes, the food, and occasionally also the cook! We opted for four quite tough days walking (5-9 hours walking per day), culminating in a starlit ascent of Jebel Toubkal, the highest peak in North Africa at 4167m.
Whilst it would have been possible to go up the mountain itself without a guide, having the guide enabled us to spend longer in the surrounding area and see more of the local villages than we would have done on our own; plus we had all our meals prepared for us and didn't have to carry too much gear. The extra few days trekking also ensured we had no altitude problems ascending the peak as we were well acclimatised to the altitude by that point.
Houssine's Ouassaggou Guest House was lovely - a good 15 minute walk from Imlil but small (just two guest rooms), peaceful and comfortable. Houssine met us off the bus and the mule carried our bags up to the guest house.
A four-day trek with just two of us in the group cost 360 euros total, including food and accommodation. This may be more than arranging something locally, but worth it for the security of having trek arranged in advance from the UK. A double room in the guest house cost about £28 a night including breakfast.
Houssine Ait Lahcen Ou Ahmad
Mountain & Desert Guide Based in Imlil
Phone (Outside Morocco): 00212 67 49 13 52
Phone (Inside Morocco): 067 49 13 52
www.trekmorocco.com
atlasguidemorocco@yahoo.fr
Stresa, like many of the other towns which reside on the lakes, is a typical tourist trap, but is good if you are short of time and fancy some mountain biking or walking (skiing in the winter). You can hire bikes from the cable car at Stresa for €10, put the bike in the cable car to Mottarone and bike down. The routes are clearly signposted and there are free route maps. If you take route L1, one third of the route is on road (not so fun!) but there are other routes you can take.
Stresa has it's own train station. You take the train from Milan Centrale towards Domodossola, the journey takes 1 hour 10 minutes.
We did the cable car ride up to the old castle on the top of the hill at Montjuic. There are some spectacular views from the top of the port and the gardens below. Highly recommended!
We took the metro which was close to our rental apartment (Paralelo) which has the funicular train, and the cable car is just over the road! Sorry I don't know if there's a website.
If you're visiting Toulon, don't miss a visit to Mt Faron. Take the bus to the departure point, then you get up the mountain by means of an exhilarating, if slightly terrifying, cable car ride - the highest cable car I'd ever travelled in, it felt like being in an aircraft!
Once up the top, there's miles and miles of wooded paths to explore, a military museum, spectacular views across Toulon and out to sea, a few cafes, and a weird zoo, which I'd probably give a miss next time. We stupidly went in the middle of the day so most of the animals were asleep (either that or they'd been replaced with stuffed toys), so it might be better in the mornings, but it wasn't anything to write home about.
The walks around the top of the mountain were great though, highly recommended!
You can buy combination bus/cable car tickets from the tourist office on the waterfront in the centre of town. These are cheaper than paying for the bus and cable car separately, and the bus stop is just a few hundred yards from the tourist office.
Flexible cycle schedule taking you round the base of Kilimanjaro, across the plains to the Serengeti and through the cooling shadows of the Rift Valley Wall.
Spectacular scenery, unique cultural experiences and a wildlife safari on top! How can you resist?
www.adsportleisure.com or info@adsportleisure.com
Adventure Sports & Leisure are a company based in Arusha, Tanzania. Responsible tourism is their thing, unique life-changing experiences is their talent! Don't be put off by their website - email them!
The Sierra de Gredos, which forms part of Spain's Sistema Central, is approximately 140 kms in length running from Cerro de Guisando in the east to the Sierra de Bejar in the west, and boasts glacial cirques, mountain rivers and falls, and peaks reaching nearly 2600m.
Every season has something to offer in Gredos – from winter snow and ice, through the verdant and flower-rich spring to the pleasant temperatures of summer and the beautiful colours of autumn.
For those who like to be active, the Sierra offers walking for all abilities, climbing and scrambling on both rock and ice, cycling, mountain biking, paragliding, horse riding and both cross country and extreme skiing.
For others, there are rivers to swim in, historical sites and cities to visit and many beautiful natural spaces rich with an abundance of wildlife and nature to discover and explore.
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