La Randoulina is a great slow food restaurant in the Staura valley west of Cuneo in Piemonte.
There is no menu, or prices, but they ask for your preference of fish or meat, or if you're vegetarian. And then start bringing food to your table. Delicious local food - boar pate, steak tartar, aubergine tart, fish vol au vent just for your starters. The menu changes according to the season.
The bill came to around 40 euros for one including a great bottle of Nebbiolo d'Alba. I think the set menu is 25 euros. Not dirt cheap, but very good value for a seven or eight course meal. Unfortunately the website is only in Italian and fails to do justice to the food. Just trust me!
www.larandoulina.com/index.htm
Via Gena 12, 12014 Demonte, Piemonte
+39 (0)171955737
The trattoria is cheap, it's full of locals, it's boisterous, and friendly. They give you a massive caraffe of wine and sort of estimate how much you've drunk (it's about €1.50 per glass). They all wanted to talk to my toddler. A chap from a market stall walked by carrying a pig's carcass, and stopped to shout over to his friend, who was serving my panzanella. No one spoke English, no one minded that our Italian was awful, and it was just such a great atmosphere.
The trattoria is within the market, and after lunch we bought the best fruit and veg we found in the city, and some great prepared meat, and some top pecorino. The market is so much better than Mercato Centrale, which is basically just for tourists and sells awful fruit (we actually had to throw away the strawberries and peaches we bought there). And if you don't want the trattoria then Semolina, a very good pizzeria, is just outside, and just down the road is Sancho Panza, another great pizza place.
It's in the Piazza Lorenzo Ghiberti, 10-15 minutes walk east from the Duomo.
Google map: bit.ly/13hSdgZ
It's here:
https://maps.google.co.uk/maps?ie=UTF8&cid=3384849024654938165&q=I%27+Trippaio+Di+Sant%27Ambrogio&iwloc=A&gl=GB&hl=en
It's on TripAdvisor too: www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Attraction_Review-g187895-d195019-Reviews-Sant_Ambrogio-Florence_Tuscany.html
Bussana Vecchia is a sun-drenched hilltop village that was devastated by an earthquake in the 1800s and brought back to life by a colony of artists who settled here in 1960s.
It has a unique hippie charm, stunning architecture and artist ateliers. The slow pace of Bussana Vecchia is a dream come true for any traveller who wants to experience something unique while visiting the Italian Riviera, without breaking the bank.
Go there now, and you may be able to check out - for free, however offers are appreciated - one of the largest railroad models in Italy, with hundreds of metres of tracks winding through tiny stations, fly-overs and mountains. Truly spectacular. To find it ask locals for the "plastico ferroviario", or follow the signs if you are lucky enough to find them.
There are also a couple of B&Bs in town, with rooms starting from €70. Drive down the hill and you will find some of the best beaches in the area, some of them with free access.
If you work up an appetite after exploring medieval alleys and church ruins, head for the Relax Cafè - when my friends and I sat down during a recent visit and ordered a glass of local white wine, we were brought an entire bottle. Afraid we were getting ripped off, we mentioned that it was only one glass we were after, and the woman serving us said: "Didn't you read outside? This is an experiment we are running. You pay with a free offer. If you want a glass you drink a glass, if you want a bottle you drink a bottle. You can give whatever you want, even just one euro!" I thought about the cost of living in London, and had to restrain myself from crying of happiness in front of everyone. My friends too were barely able to mask their surprise.
Have I mentioned you also get delicious pizza straight from the wood oven? (Which you can also make yourself, if you like). How about the stunning views over the Ligurian hills? Sounds too good to be true? Well go to Bussana Vecchia and see for yourself.
Driving or walking are your only two options. From Sanremo (or San Remo - not even locals are sure), head east towards Arma di Taggia and make a left, following signs to Bussana. Once past the "modern" village, keep driving up the hill towards Bussana Vecchia. Park your car wherever you can (the road is a dead end, and make sure you are good at driving on narrow roads), and walk into the village. At the entrance of the village, you'll find the Osteria degli Artisti. Turn right and walk up the hill for a couple of minutes until you reach a little square with a tiny church that has no roof anymore. Entrance to the Relax Cafe is there.
Google map: bit.ly/13YfO8E
The Coal Shed is an absolutely fantastic restaurant which specialises in meat and fish. It's about five minutes from the train station, and seconds from the beach, tucked away from tourists on a private road.
It frequently gets rave reviews, and it's clear why - their delicious menu has something for everyone, from a good old fashioned burger (called "incredible" by Source magazine) to cuttlefish in an ink vinaigrette!
They also have one of the only Josper ovens in the UK, so their steaks are amazing - perfectly cooked and melt-in-the-mouth.
The only downside is that it can get really busy in the evening, but as it's much quieter at lunch, you're far more likely to get a table then.
Highly recommended!
www.coalshed-restaurant.co.uk
8 Boyces Street, Brighton, BN1 1AN
+44(0)1273 322 998
Google map: bit.ly/1120a74
The main ingredient of Czech food, I’ve heard it said, is cholesterol. Hearty fare is the polite way to sum up this ribsticking stodge, comprising typically of meat and dumplings sans vegetables of any kind.
There are places in Prague where you can eat food with a touch more flair – and it needn’t cost the earth. Located a one minute walk from Hradčanska metro station (and therefore around fifteen minutes from Prague Castle on foot), Argument is a restaurant which can’t easily be pigeonholed. It’s upmarket without being pretentious; modern without resembling an airport lounge.
I went for the degustation menu – six small courses which allow you to sample the best of what the restaurant has to offer. The tiger prawns were tasty – I wasn’t brave enough to try sweetbreads but the grilled octopus was delicious. Best of all was course number five – roast duck with ginger – which was so tender it almost melted in the mouth.
While certainly beyond the budget of the average backpacker, Argument is worth a visit if you’d like to treat yourself to quality cuisine without completely breaking the bank.
www.argument-restaurant.cz/uvodni-strana/
Bubenečská 19, Prague 6
+420220 510 427
Google map: bit.ly/10pdqab
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
A superb vegan restaurant in hipster Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Very close to the L train so it's about a 10 minute journey from Manhattan's Union Square and then you can walk down Bedford Avenue past thrift stores, bookshops, boutiques etc. The food is amazing! I had a jackfruit burger which was just the same texture as pulled pork, marinated in a delicious sauce with sweet potato fries. Or you can go for much healthier stuff - steamed greens, seaweed, tempeh, the works. Our server was super nice and welcomed us back when we went in again a couple days later. I really do recommend this place.
191 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11211, United States
+1 718 599 2547
Google map: bit.ly/16DabAl
Zoë's is the coolest restaurant in New York. You'll find locals and regulars and celebrities all coming for one thing: the good, quality food.
www.zoerestaurantnyc.com
245 Eldridge Street in New York City on the Lower Eastside at Houston Street
+1 (646) 559 5962
Google map: bit.ly/12GjGdi
I discovered this place after the gas bottle in our flat ran out one day – right in time for lunch. ‘Go to El Rincón del Búho, you can get a menú del día there for €3.50!’ read a text from my flatmate. And off I toddled. It took me about three goes to find it, as it looks like flats from the outside and you have to go up a corridor to reach it.
Advertised as an ‘artistic and socio-cultural project’, the venue has a small bar and performance space. It offers music events (including flamenco), art exhibitions, children’s theatre and storytelling workshops. Cheap snacks (€1 for a homemade empanada or slice of pizza) and bottled beers are on sale when events are on. The €3.50 deal is available from 2pm till 4pm on Thursdays and Fridays, with vegetarians catered for well.
rincondelbuhosevilla.blogspot.com.es/
Calle Parras, 31, 41002, Seville, Spain
bit.ly/13xEm7l
* Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsfield
The restaurant has the finest clams near Lisbon and a view of one of Europe's most beautiful beaches. The journey there has captivating views of Serra da Sintra and the coastline. Spend a day at the beach then slide into the restaurant for a late lunch of ameijoas de bulhao pato (clams in garlic sauce) and camaroes (prawns) washed down with vinho verde (Quinta da Aveleda). On your way home stop off for dinner on the coast road between Guincho and Cascais at either Porto da Santa Maria (where presidents and football managers dine) or the Faroleiro
Take the train from Cais do Sodre in Lisbon to Cascais, jump in a cab towards Guincho beach, a 2km sweep of fine white sand. Drive along the coast road, passing Sintra range on your right and the coastline on your left. Drive past Cabo da Roca and Pe da Serra towards Almocageme. This beautiful village will lead you towards Adraga road. Follow it to the end.
Google map: bit.ly/10fjL7j
Serving up quite possibly the best Sunday roast in the area, the Bolingey Inn can be found huddled a mile in land from the holiday hoards of Perranporth.
For about £9 you get a huge plate of locally sourced meat – take your pick from beef, pork and lamb – a big old Yorkshire pud (regardless of meat choice), a separate serving of freshly cooked al dente veg, crispy roast spuds and the icing on the cake, an extra helping of gravy served alongside. ‘Coz there’s nothing worse than running out of gravy half way through your dinner, eh?
And the deserts can be pretty special too. I can definitely vouch for their pavlovas - made from crispy, chewy meringue, and mighty cheesecakes – huge, creamy and usually laced with some sort of booze.
Penwartha Rd, Perranporth, Bolingey, Perranporth TR6 0DH
+44(0)1872 571626
Google map: bit.ly/12lgBfC
* Sian is our Been there local for Cornwall. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/been-there-local-cornwall.jsp and her own blog about Cornish living: www.adventureswiththeblackdog.co.uk/
A true gem is the walled city of Lucca, birthplace of Puccini. Take a stroll on the tree-lined city walls (as wide as a motorway). For fantastic views climb the bricked Guinigi Tower which has a tree growing on the top. There are churches, squares and museums to explore. Look for the unusual piazza of the Amphitheatre with houses around the perimeter. For mouth watering traditional Tuscan food head to the family-run Trattoria Buralli on Piazza Sant’Agostino.
Lucca always stayed independent. In the past through the supply and trade of silk, nowadays it is the biggest producer of toilet paper in Italy.
Regular train service from Florence 1hr 30mins, return ticket €7.
www.vecciatrattoriaburalli.it
Piazza Sant'Agostino, 10, 55100 Lucca, Italy
+39 0583 950611
Google map: bit.ly/ZLk728
My boyfriend and I ate at The Square Kitchen for my birthday and it was a wonderful dining experience! Having lived in Bristol for a year we were delighted to find this little gem, tucked away just off the top of Park Street. Not only was the food excellent but the service was second to none and the venue had a boutique arty feel with beautiful prints on the wall by Katalina Bath. I will definitely be going back to enjoy lunch on their lovely terrace in the summer!
www.thesquareclub.com
15 Berkeley Square, Clifton, BS8 1HB
+44(0)117 921 0455
Google map: bit.ly/15yFU4a
Hilltop town favoured by the Etruscans and wealthy Renaissance families who valued the cooler climate. Well preserved Roman Theatre and other ruins in the archaeological park with lots of Etruscan artefacts in the Civic Museum. A Combo ticket also gives admission to Ethnographic Missionary and Bandini Museums (small but worth it for the painted panels).
Eating wise there are two good restaurants (l'Polpa particularly good) at the bus terminus on Piazza Mino or take a picnic on the panoramic terrace with wonderful views of Florence.
Take bus no. 7 either from outside the main railway station or from Piazza San Marco - about three an hour. Lots of hairpin bends up to the town. Double decker Florence sightseeing bus also goes there.
Ristorante l'Polpa:
Piazza Mino, 21/22, 50014 Fiesole, Italy
+39(0)55 59485
Google map: bit.ly/XDwbVI
Just an hour's drive north-west of Madrid is the ancient city of Segovia, which stands proudly beneath its splendid cathedral. Nestled under the city's imposing roman aqueduct sits Meson de Candido, a family owned restaurant attracting food-lovers from far afield. Upon the recommendation of our local friends we dined, like everybody else that afternoon, or so it seemed, on the house's speciality, "cochinillo" or roast whole suckling pig. The waiters and chefs alike are proud of this dish, and so they should be. Cooked in vast, traditional ovens (ask nicely and you may get treated to a tour of the kitchen, as we did), the pork is a delight. Start with Granja, a local white bean soup, and savour the surprise "sorpresa" pudding, a gorgeous cakey, eggy, ice-creamy affair. If you're in Madrid and have a spare day, then Segovia is a glorious city of romance that you must visit, especially in late summer: potter, enjoy the sun and most importantly, make the most of what Meson de Candido has to offer. You won't regret it! Food and wine all in for around 35 euros.
www.mesondecandido.es/ingles.html
Plaza Azoguejo, 5, 40001 Segovia, Spain
+34 921 42 59 11
Google map: bit.ly/15eS56y
For a guaranteed pick-me-up after our long winter head to Brodie Castle in Moray for a fix of bright yellow sunshine. The park around the castle has thousands of daffodils, part of the National Collection and some of them very old cultivars. Warm yourself up in the tearoom with some excellent homebakes before heading to the Culbin Sands for more colour - this time big blue skies and miles of white sands. End your day at The Loft at East Grange with an organic beer from the Black Isle Brewery and good, local produce. Winter blues replaced with spring colour!
www.nts.org.uk/Property/Brodie-Castle/What-to-see/
www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/c/culbinsands/
www.eastgrange.co.uk/bar-bistro-kinloss.html
+44(0)01343 850111
Google map: bit.ly/187aIso
Balkan restaurant with a delightfully wacky interior – yes, those are upside down chairs you can see hanging from the ceiling! There’s also a gorgeous garden which is open in summer if you really can't cope with the riot of colour on the walls but the real attraction here is the food. The grilled octopus was beautifully presented and tasted delicious which came as something as a shock given this is a landlocked country. Despite being popular with Czech celebs like Karel Gott (their answer to Cliff Richard) and Oscar winning screenwriter/director Zdenek Sverak, the prices are reasonable – and the welcome is as warm as you would expect in the Mediterranean. I deeply regret having strolled past this place, assuming it must be as a tourist haunt – don’t make my mistake!
lukalu.cz/
Újezd 33, Praha 1, Mala Strana
+420 257 212 388
Google map: bit.ly/17o6yw8
* Lisette is our Been there local for Prague. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/prague-local-lisette.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LisettePrague
The Low Sizergh Barn tea room menu is for lovers of local, seasonal and home made food. It’s also a proper and very well run working farm. Before 11.30am enjoy a hearty Cumbrian breakfast, sip tea that’s blended to suit their water by a Kendal merchant, lunch on freshly made favourites and daily specials, or tuck into a farmhouse tea. They use eggs from their free-to-roam hens which greet you in the car park, fruit from the orchard, organic vegetables grown in the fields by Growing Well, and their our own award winning Kendal Creamy cheese (made from milk from the herd) is the highlight of the menu.
www. lowsizerghbarn.co.uk
Low Sizergh Farm, Sizergh, Kendal LA8 8AE
+44(0)1539 560426
Google map: bit.ly/XEuh8t
You've emerged, blinking like a newborn, from the perilously touristic Damrak street which took you from Amsterdam Central Station to Dam Square. You are hungry and grouchy from a cramped discount airline flight, or maybe you just have the munchies since you stopped along the way at a coffeeshop. Either way, you're low on funds but not keen to try the gross tourist haunts you've seen so far.
Go west, young (wo)man, to Grillroom Sefa (or Sefa Grill-room, or... who knows? They don't even have a website). Sefa has a host of Middle Eastern dishes to take out or eat there, all from 5 to 10 Euros. Fresh, tasty, and served with uncharacteristic (for Amsterdam) friendliness, you can grab a shoarma, a doner, or kebab. Good-sized meals too (the 5 EUR Broodje Doner is all I usually need for the day).
Located at Westermarkt 25, it is only a few blocks from Dam Square, directly across from Westermarkt church, within 100 meters of the Anne Frank house and closer still to a canal where you can dangle your feet over the side and chill out with your meal. They're open until the wee hours as well. Better Sefa than sorry! (Sorry!).
Westermarkt 25, Amsterdam, Noord-Holland
+31(0)20 7739212
Google map: bit.ly/13ej6qp
* Jeff is our Been there local for Amsterdam. You can read his profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/amsterdam-local-jeff-funnekotter.jsp and follow his tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/jefffunnekotter
What can I say? Love 'The Harry's. The location is perfect - it feels like heaven sat watching the sunset from the top. Views are just gorgeous. Great place for morning coffee or an evening drink and also definitely the best restaurant to go to. Food is great. This is certainly the only place that we book year on year. You need to pre book for the restaurant though as it does get very busy.
www.theharrysrestaurant.com
Belceğiz Mh., Çarşı Cd, Ölüdeniz, Turkey
+90 252 617 07 08
Google map: bit.ly/YutaXw
Myself and my partner ate here on a number of occassions and were never disappointed. The service was excellent, really friendly staff and always happy to help. The restaurant looks out over the beach which is a stunning view. We often watched the paragliders landing just in front of the restaurant or the the sun setting from here.
The food was so good, everything we ordered was wonderful. From a simple chicken kebab wrap to Harry's fish special we really enjoyed it all. It was great value for money. Yes, some of the drinks were a bit expensive but no more than anywhere else. After a lovely meal we really enjoyed going up to Harry's cocktail bar and trying out all the different cocktails. Again the staff there were brilliant and the cocktails were yummy.
Overall this was one of our favourite restaurants and deserves the excellent rating we have given it. As my title said great food, great surroundings and great staff. What more could you want?!
www.theharrysrestaurant.com
Carsi Cad. 1, Oludeniz Fethiye, Mugla / Turkiye
+90 252 617 07 08
Google map: bit.ly/XSEdMZ