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0-2 hours: Avoid! Bund Tourist Tunnel - 10 minutes
Crossing the Bund can be done by boat, car or underground, but don't waste your time on the rather retro (read tacky) Bund Tourist Tunnel. The name is apt as only tourists would be crazy enough to spend their money on a underground fair ride that is more likely to cause an epileptic shock than any degree of amusement. It is however, the quickest way to cross the river if you are on the banks on the Bund (and it's rush hour so the tunnel is blocked). Give a try... if you really must.

Xian dan di - 1-2 hours
Ironically housed in the former offices of the Communist party, this beautiful refurbished part of town could be accused of being rather faux in terms of its connection with real China life... but it's there and it exists and it is part of Shanghai ex-pat life. The clean streets, the trendy restaurants and the outrageous prices probably tell you that you are in a place for tourists and expats, however, it's worth a look around and for a pitstop.

Go to Starbucks - 30 mins to 1 hour
I kid you not, some would accuse me of sacrilege but there is a reason... please bear with me. A lot of the Starbucks in the city benefit from sitting in the most prestigious and ideally located positions in the city for great panoramic views. My personal recommendation would be the Starbucks situated on the East bank of the river overlooking the Bund just opposite the Shangri-La hotel. Grab yourself a Chinese tea and watch the sunset over the river. The glowing fuzz of the city ahead will warm you before you retreat to your hotel.

Enjoy drinks over the Bund - 1-2 hours
A visit to Shanghai will not be complete without a visit to the historic 'Bund' district, the colonial waterside developed on the west bank of the Huangpu River. Many of the bars/restaurants (I recommend 'M on the Bund' - www.m-restaurantgroup.com/) offer expansive views over the Bund and the tall skyscrapers in the Pudong district. The food's not bad either! English and Chinese menus are available. Other nearby highlights include the old HSBC building (no longer housing HSBC) and Huangpu Park.

Stroll along Nanjing Road (to buy the other half a gift) -
2-4 hours
Home to Shanghai's main shopping street so be prepared to be greeted by tens of thousands of people. The shops range from the local to international with department stores dotted along the way. Be sure to stop by one of the many snack stores to take on board some of the delicious buns or dumplings that make China famous. Be sure you check the custom regulations for transporting goods though, be particularly careful with any foodstuffs.

Enjoy a river cruise along Huangpu River - 1-3 hours
One observation you will undoubtedly make whilst travelling in Shanghai is that the river is bustling with life. Container ships, tankers, passenger boats all zip up and down the river at a hectic speed. Board a river cruise boat from the ferry terminal at the south of the Bund district. Here you will be able to enjoy a one, two or even three hour river cruise. Take care though... Shanghai like many other Chinese cities is prone to a spot of smog. Try and pick a clear day. Try Huangpu River Cruise (239 Second Eastern Zhong Shan Road, Shanghai - tel +86 21 6374 4461). Nearest station - Wai Tan

Sleep in the clouds - 8 hours
Nope, I'm not talking about your business class flat bed on the way back home, I'm talking about the ever impressive Grand Hyatt Shanghai. Based in Pudong it's close to the financial centre and closer to the airport. Ask for a room overlooking the Pearl TV tower or over the park.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19856 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19667 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19667 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18894
The passenger boat called the Aquidaban seems best avoided because of the crowds but the weekly journey of the Guarani, a freighter is a real treat. I say treat as it is far from comfortable or reliable but if you want an authentic, no frills view of life on the river then this is it.

The majority of the boat is taken up with all kinds of goods for the small towns and villages along the river. Food, furniture, oil, motorcycles and a huge load of gravel we collected en-route were part of the cargo. For a negotiated price of about $20 we secured a rough dark cabin above the engine.

There are no real comforts but food can be taken with the crew and the few locals who take the boat between villages. Sitting up on the tin roof watching the river go by and observing the comings and goings as the boat gets caught on sandbanks, loads and unloads and the crew get on with the tasks of running the boat. Fishing off the back of the boat in their spare time to have the old lady cook up the catch in the evening.

The passage takes roughly 2 to 3 days depending on all of the above. It is a working freighter so as such the passengers are the last concern of the crew but having said that we never felt unwelcome or in the way.

Small towns such as Puerto Pinasco and Puerto Vallemi slowly pass by. There is a huge chest freezer with beers in to help pass the time and a really ancient looking giant tv showing a constant stream of football and Paraguayan soap operas by the kitchen area at the back of the boat. The toilet and the shower are one in the same being just a hole in the floor to stand over and a shower head directly above it. All very basic and in no way designed for tourists expecting comfort or service. Brilliant. Take a good book and let the river slowly pass by.

The weather went from sweltering airless heat to heavy rain and strong wind so be warned. The end of our ride came after three days at Isla Margerita which is at the border with Brazil, we arrived at midnight and with Brasil on the far bank of the river we quickly found some cheap lodging right next to where we had disembarked. The owner of the room also happened to own a boat so for a small fee took us across the river the next day. We had arrived in Brazil.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18894 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17549 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17549 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16567 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16567 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13555 Food is good, though not super-cheap (about £9 for a curry and about £2 for rice). Service is friendly.

But really it is all about the location on the river.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13555 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13129
These run mainly during the summer and one of the most popular trips is to Tolga, taking about an hour each way.

There are also somewhat faster hydrofoil services to Kostroma, an hour and a half each way.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13129 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12914
The countryside here has an extraordinary wild beauty and whether you want to do some serious walking or just linger around Malmsmead, the village at the heart of the area, you won’t fail to share in the enchantment that inspired Blackmore to write his book.

There is a memorial stone to Blackmore on one of the footpaths and if you’re going to indulge in a cream tea, then Lorna Doone Farm is the place to have it while admiring the view over the little river valley.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12914 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11876
From here, you can either rest and re-fuel before heading back, or continue along numerous paths that wind off further up through the forest. If it's a hot day, be sure to take a drink with you.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11876 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9551 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9551 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9318
Where else can you find a place as idyllic as this, just seconds from the centre of the city's financial district? Light rippling off the water, multi-coloured converted "go-downs", old river taxis still plying the river and historical buildings on the other bank?

Yes, the restaurants further down the river really are pure tourist fodder, so you'll want to go somewhere else to eat, and Harry's Bar might be more famous for Nick Leeson than anything else, but don't let the stigma of going to an "expat hangout" divert from a genuine part of Singapore's culture.

The expats have been here since the place began, after all, and you may know someone who works nearby - an ideal excuse to drink in the atmosphere.

If this doesn't appeal, stroll up to The Fullerton, cross the bridge, and head for Indochine and its Opium Bar where you can stare back at Boat Quay from the other bank - and probably get some better food.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9318 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7049
I found a company - Bootshaus Silwar - that hires out canoes (note that I am not affiliated with them nor know if they are the best and cheapest or anything, but it should help a bit).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7049 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6490 The stadium is some way out on the left side of town.

Cologne is a cool, civilised town, enjoy it.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6490 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5103 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5103 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4676 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4676 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4223 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4223 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3772 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3772 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3734 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3734 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3584 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3584 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3144 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3144