Nerja is on the Costa Del Sol and lies approximately an hours drive north of Malaga. I first visited Nerja with my husband in October 2006 and the last time (approximately our 5th trip) was with my husband and our four year old twin girls in September 2011. Nerja is very pretty and has everything you require for a super holiday - plenty of restaurants, bars, shops and beaches, but it still feels very Spanish. The setting of the town is lovely and at its heart is the Balcon Da Europa, a lovely tree lined walk way that juts out in to the sea. The resort is a super place to mooch around during the day and really comes alive at night with its bustling cafes and bars. The resort is quite compact, so getting around is easy on foot. We loved Nerja as a couple and love it still as a family. It has hardly changed over the years, except there are a few more restaurants. It is also well placed for visiting the local area. Just south is the resort of Torrox Costa, north is La Herradura and inland is the pretty white washed village of Frigliana. It is worth hiring a car to get the most from this beautiful area.

Nerja, Costa Del Sol, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/zVQ5hC

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Seville city centre has a wealth of food establishments, with plenty of choice between tapas bars and international dishes. However, sometimes a trip to a small town can uncover little gems. Da Frá is a beautifully decorated Italian restaurant. Very cosy, and with a family feel - perfect for a winter's evening with an enormous log-fire in the middle of the venue. It has a wide selection of anti-pasti/insalatas, pasta and pizza, meat and risotto but not too much to make you dizzy. All reasonably priced and generous portions. Homemade puddings too!

www.dafrasevilla.com
Calle Martires de la Iglesia, S/N, 41807 Espartinas
Google map: bit.ly/zFRcqK

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A slow train south from Madrid to the Andalucian city of Granada was the first leg of the first holiday my now wife and I took, just weeks after we first met.
The air-conditioned carriage trundled for hours across the baked earth of Castile as we ate tinned olives and shared icy bottles of Heineken.
Spain stretched out before us with the occasional puff of cloud emerging over the horizon. On arrival in the evening, the southern heat was still overwhelming. Our supper was a large plate of sliced tomatoes, garlic and olive oil with a chunk of crusty white bread. Sleepy after the journey, we held hands as we walked through jasmine scented streets in the dark.

www.renfe.com
www.turgranada.es
Google map: bit.ly/xp9kW9

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Fed up of Cruzcampo (not many people out of Seville are actually that fond of it) then this is the best place to visit. It has an extensive menu of beers, ales, bitters, stouts from all over the world (hence the name). And to ensure that the Morte Subite (€2.95) doesn't take such effect there are also several tapas to choose from, including German sausage and sauerkraut.

www.cerveceriainternacional.com/
C/ GAMAZO, 3 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 954 211 717
Google map: bit.ly/A8l76q

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Tenerife was created a while ago when molten rock squirted out of a rather weak part of the earth's crust, not too far from Africa. The whole island is a complete field trip: a real trip. The result of a sustained bout of volcanic activity, Teide is the highest mountain in Spain. Altitude sickness permitting, a vigorous, somewhat vertical stroll from sunrise to sunset will take you to the peak at 3715 metres and back, past craters and vents, across awesome pahoehoe and to Teide's eggs, surreal volcanic bombs twice the size of your rental car. The view from the peak is as wide as your mind. The little fluffy clouds are under your feet and you can tell that the world is yours. You can just see the beach but it is far, far away.

There's an international airport on one of the lava fields, levelled appropriately.
Google map: bit.ly/AdAQa8

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A minimalist wine-bar style establishment in Utrera, a small town some 30 minutes away from Seville. A good range of hot and cold gastro-tapas. A little more expensive than most places, but definitely worth the few cents more. All dishes come beautifully and innovatively presented. Being a drab winter day, I asked for the 'pucherito expreso' (€3.90), and what a spectacle! Puchero is a broth made of various meat-types. It is normally served as a broth with rice or chickpeas and the meat is served as a side, all mushed together and eaten with bread, called 'pringá' (or pringada). My pucherito expresso was served to me from a tiny cafetiere. The waitress poured it for me into a bowl, garnished with a quail egg, and the pringá was in the bottom half of the instrument.

www.besanatapas.com/
C/ Niño Perdido, 1 41710 Utrera
+34 955 86 38 04
Google map: bit.ly/xujL5Z

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A proper Spanish Village. Unspoiled typical Andalucia. Quiet, crime free, with warm friendly people. A little look at a time that has gone and is now almost forgotten about.
They still serve free tapas in the bars.

Google map: bit.ly/xQIkW1

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Tigre is a small, quirky classic Spanish bar. We love it. They serve some of the most fabulous tapas you'll ever taste. The owner, Antonio, is a flamboyant showman who takes enormous pride in everything he serves. Try the berenjena (thinly sliced deep fried aubergine) - amazing. Antonio also serves a mean tostada: marmalade with soft white cheese or ham with blue cheese crumbled on - wash it down with fresh squeezed orange juice and a prefect strong coffee. If you're feeling adventurous (and hungry) ask Antonio to simply keep the food coming, it will be a culinary experience, you will not leave hungry and it won't cost a fortune. In the summer evenings the bar takes over the top part of the square, service can slow down outside sometimes in the warmer weather, but hey whats's the rush? You're sitting in a lovely traditional Andalucian square under the stars sipping your drink.

Pl. Constitución, 1
18120 , ALHAMA DE GRANADA , GRANADA
Google map: bit.ly/sypico

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The last time I visited Barcelona I had a great experience with the guys of Barcelona Photocircuits. They run a photography studio and organise photography tours across Barcelona. I spent an afternoon in downtown and they showed me very cool hidden corners and also helped me improve my camera skills. You can ask anything, they give you lots of tips and tricks to make your pictures great and deeply know the city. Very recommended.

www.photocircuits.es

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This classic Andalucian tapas bar has a great atmosphere, it serves a fantastic selection of local wine and draft beer and a plate of tapas is free with every drink you order. In the summer the tables spill out into the narrow street and in the winter they close the big wooden doors and place trays of burning olive wood (Braseros) under your table to keep you warm. If the free tapas don't fill you up you can order more food - great rustic plates of food, it is all local and seasonal. Try a media (half) plate of the setas (fleshy mushrooms) and the calamari plancha (grilled squid) are both incredible. In summer the tinto verano (red wine and lemonade cooler) hits the spot. In winter one of the local full bodied red wines is perfect. Whatever the season the atmosphere in Ochoa is always vibrant.

Plaza de Constitución, Alhama de Granada, Andalucia, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/uL3pgq

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If you are in the traditional "white villages" of southern Spain during the Christmas holidays, you can experience many traditions based on religious beliefs. There are "belens" (nativity scenes) set up all over the villages - spot the "caganer" figure with his trousers down squatting in the traditional scene! In the bars, you may see a travelling group of shepherd musicians playing and dancing. On Christmas Eve, families have meals including special treats like turron, and little oil lamps sparkle in the windows of the houses. There are processions through the villages, most noteably on Three Kings day on 6th January when children leave out their shoes for the kings to fill with presents - as they pass by, the kings give out sweets and gifts. Best of all, the weather is warm and pleasant and if you're lucky, you could spend the 25th of December on a sandy beach ...

Google map: bit.ly/uAx09a

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This very beautifully decorated wine bar is in the Realejo part of Granada (the old Jewish quarter), very close to Melia hotel. What a great place to have tapas and a huge selection of Spanish red and white wines and cider. Carlos, the owner, knows his stuff and will be very happy to talk you through each of his selected wines and point you in the right direction should you want to take some home with you. We will be back.

Calle San Antonio, next to (Plaza de Los Campos). Granada, Andalucia, Spain
+ 34 666 238 485
Google map: bit.ly/tvqqef

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A glamorous live flamenco venue frequented by many of Seville's celebs, such as Vicky Martín Berrocal, the famous flamenco dress designer. Upon entering the sala, her work is on show, a lavish red long-trained dress, and the walls adorned with black-and-white photography of flamenco greats such as Lola Flores and Camarón. The sala is minimalist, and was full of suave, young, beautiful people. A live band played a mixture of flamenquito (pop/flamenco), sevillanas and salsa, and the atmosphere was enjoyable and lively. Drinks are a little more pricey than other venues at €8 a copa (spirit and mixer).

Calle Castilla, 137
Google map: bit.ly/vS2oId

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Christmas has finally arrived in Seville. It is not as sparkly or 'in your face' as a British Christmas scene but is definitely here, with flamenco-style villancicos (carols) are being played from the stands at the Feria del Belén.
It may seem excessive having a whole market dedicated to the nativity scene, but it is here where they do not do things by halves. The feria starts mid November until 23 December, and its 20-odd stands have a range of hand-crafted figurines, buildings, bridges, even a pyramid if you wish. Their nativity scene does not just include the stable and baby Jesus in a crib: it extends to the mountains, the farmlands, rivers, ponds and often proudly takes up a large table in Spanish families' houses.

This year (2011) the market takes place alongside the Archivos de Indias and the Cathedral. Other years it can be found at the Plaza de San Francisco next to the Ayuntamiento.
Google map: bit.ly/vG6xW6

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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After having lived in Seville for two years, I am a little embarrassed that there are many attractions I have yet to visit. This was the case of the Museo de Baile Flamenco (Museum of flamenco dance). I knew where it was and had wandered past peering in many a time when passing by with visitors. When I was invited to take a tour, I didn't know what to expect. I had a stereotypical prejudgement in mind: museums are boring and require a lot of reading and concentration.
I was wrong.
Before even stepping foot in the museum reception, you are already welcomed by faint flamenco rhythms and the sound 'pa-tah, pa-tah, pa-tah'. On the way to the museum (it's located on the 1st floor), you pass the light and airy patio where top-notch performances take place every evening. It was from here that the sounds of taconeo were being produced, although not in the form of a spectacular show on the centre stage, but basic steps from flamenco fledglings in the glass-paned dance studio. Visitors are encouraged to take a pew and observe, attempt to comprehend the complexity involved with mastering this art form, so that they are able to really appreciate how long it took the novice to perfect just one step when watching the professional show.
The museum itself is relatively new, and was inaugurated in 2006, born of the initiative of Cristina Hoyos, an acclaimed Sevillana flamenco dancer and actress, who has had a great influence on the rise of this artform. She wanted to bring flamenco dance closer to the world, to make people understand that it is one of the three fundamental pillars that support flamenco: the other two being cante (singing) and toque (guitar playing). Only last year, flamenco was declared as being of intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, and Crisitina Hoyos and this wonderful museum may have had something to do with that! This is the only museum in the world, to date, to solely be dedicated to flamenco dance.
It provides a perfect introduction for any visitor to this magical world (or for Andalusian visitors to be reminded of its beginnings). Although I have attempted to describe the different flamenco palos in the past, I learnt from the tour that many stones were surely left unturned. The first floor of the Museo del Baile Flamenco uses a hands-on high tech approach to explaining the origins, (i.e., where castanets, hand or hip movements were from) and the variety of palos (flamenco styles), through videos and interactive screens, available in many languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Chinese and Japanese). Flamenco is an emotive dance, and depending on the palo different feelings can be portrayed: these videos perfectly demonstrate this with buzz words flashing up alongside. Furthermore, visitors can read more information, listen and watch using the touch-screen displays. This floor also describes how flamenco came into the spotlight, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. You can stand under the 'sound showers' and experience a sensory overload: hear flamenco melodies, see footage from years bygone - when flamenco started to take centre stage - and read famous flamenco quotes from flamenco-inspired works such as Carmen.
Another room puts flamenco costume in the spotlight, using interactive screens to explain where different items came from and how they were incorporated into dance. Last but not least on this floor, is a room consisting entirely of video walls, showing a performance choreographed specifically for the museum by Cristina Hoyos.
The museum also has an impressive photography and art collection, including images of Cristina Hoyo and her dance company, reminiscing of their ‘golden years’. Contemporary art works from up-and-coming artists, Spanish and international bring give the museum bring the art to the modern day. The exhibition rooms, as well as the well-preserved 18th century basement, are also used for percussion lessons and can be hired out for private events or conferences.
After discovering so much about the art of flamenco, it really made me appreciate the amazing live performance that same the evening. Four artists: two bailaores dancers (Lola Jaramillo and Jesús Herrera), a tocaor guitarist (Andrés Martínez) and a cantaor singer (Trini) took to the stage to bring to life all that was learnt from the museum. Here though, you could feel the flamenco and understand the emotions involved in the various palos. You could feel the vibration from the taconazos on the wooden tablao, and the swish of air as the train from Lola's traje swished inches past your face. Experience the joyfulness of bulerías and heart-felt wails of a saeta. I had seen many shows in free bars, the Bienal and touristy tabloas and I can guarantee that this show will remain present in my memory for much time to come. All of the performers stood out for me, but never had I seen a bailaora with such stage presence – maybe because I had never seen one master dancing with a mantoncillo and long-trained traje - it was astonishing.
This museum and show is a perfect introduction to flamenco for any visitor to Seville. It is located on C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, and is open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Entrance to the museum is: Adults - €10, Students and over 65s - €8, and Sevillanos and children - €6.
Shows are
Sunday to Thursday (45 mins): Adults - €15, Students and over 65s - €12, and Sevillanos and children - €10
Friday and Saturday (60 mins): Adults - €23, Students and over 65s - €20, and Sevillanos and children - €12
Packages are available to enter the museum and see a show:
Sunday to Thursday: Adults - €20, Students and over 65s - €15, Sevillanos and children - €12
Friday and Saturday: Adults - €28, Students and over 65s - €25, Sevillanos and children - €20

For a guided tour of the museum in English, visit on Mondays or Thursdays at 5 p.m.

www.museoflamenco.com‎
C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos 3
+34.954.34.03.11
Google map: bit.ly/ujcnsi

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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This cosy little place next to the Sagrada Familia is the only place I found in the tourist heart of the city that does not try to ruin your wallet. It has an eclectic decor with Banksy prints and about 100 pairs of sunglasses. All the tables are home made, and the food is extraordinary. It ranges from salads and soups, to burritos and nachos and covers tapas in between. The quality is very good and its not expensive at all. They have a terrace overlooking the Sagrada Familia, and if you stay there till night falls like we did it all goes a little bit crazy. How they fit that many people in the place escapes me, but the owners introduced us to about 20 new friends from all over the world. Great food, great company, good times, highly recommended

www.chillbarcelona.com
Provenca 424 (corner with Sicilia) 08025 Barcelona
+34 934762270
Google map: bit.ly/rr3eE4

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All public transport in Bilbao is very cheap, clean and regular.
The bus from the airport runs every 30 minutes, costs 1.30 euros to the bus station (termibus) and you pay on the bus. It will cost you between 25-30 euros in a taxi.
On the regular buses you can get single or return tickets which you purchase from the individual bus stops. Tickets have to be validated there before you get on the bus. It's easy to understand after the first go.
On the metro it is exactly the same, the machines have all the destinations and it is a touch screen process in various languages. The longest trip we could take on the metro only cost 3.40 euros return. Tickets have to be validated at the same machines.
You can purchase a Bilbao Card from various places which covers all public transport in Bilbao itself but you will need to pay more for trips further out. The cards can be bought for a single day but there are other time periods.

www.termibus.es/index.php?idi=en
Google map: bit.ly/tOrwmQ

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My Sevillana friend always swears by a certain Sevillano chain heladería. Then, I told her about this little place. If there is any place where you can taste Seville, then it is here. Joaquín Liria has created ice creams based on some of Seville's most prominent scents: springtime's crema de flor de azahar (cream of orange blossom) and dulce de romero (rosmary), and favourite sweets: dulce de palmera, crema de Torrijas (typical of Holy Week). There is even one that tastes of Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barameda - sherry flavour! For me it would be hard to choose a favourite: I love Dulce de Chirimoya (custard apple), which is only available towards the end of summer when the fruit is most flavoursome, and caramelly Dulce de pestiño, another sweet typical of Holy Week. There is a variety of sizes, available in scoops or little tubs (a 1-scoop cone is €2.20 and small tub €3.00). The heladería has gained press both nationally and internationally for its innovative creations, and even Great Britain's Rick Stein visited while filming his last series Rick Stein's Spain.

www.heladerialafiorentina.com
c/ Zaragoza, 16, 41001
Google map: bit.ly/vfAUmd

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A few months back a friend recommended me to go to Anselma's. She didn't really know how to direct me there and didn't tell me any more than that it had a good atmosphere. She assured me that anyone in the streets of Triana would know it, or her.

True to her word, a passer-by pointed us in the right direction, although upon arriving it still wasn't clear if we had reached our destination. The shutters were down and the mosaics above the door read 'Comestibles', not 'Casa Anselma'.

People were spilling out onto the road with a faint 'rociero' melody interrupted intermittently by loud outbursts of "vuelve a las 2, a las 2,'" "está a tope, a tope" ('come back at 2', 'its full"). The words were pouring out from a stout, black-clad woman in the entrance way, stopping the hoards from trying to squeeze in. It was not just her floral mantoncillo draped across her shoulders that made her appear a typical Andalusian woman -she was abrupt, loud and had plenty of guasa (wit): she was Anselma.

The crowds realised that there was no space for them and dispersed, heading to bars recommended by Anselma herself: “they sing as well as we do, but you must come back at 2”. My friend and I held tight and she eventually beckoned us on in.

The room was stuffy, packed with small gypsy-style hand painted tables and adorned with typical feria and Rocío paraphynalia. In the corner at the front was the choir, a coro rociero, a collective of people that sing hommage to the Virgen del Rocío and who go on pilgrimage every year. They were equipped with a percussion box and guitars, and not to forget the most important of instruments, their hands and voices! They performed upbeat bulerías and sevillanas to which a pair danced.

An hour into the show (at around 1 am) Anselma shouted across the audience "Stop dancing, I want to sing!" and she shimmied through the crowds to do what she knows best. It was clear that she was an experienced show woman: she joked, acted, and had a powerful copla voice.

Almost all of the people in the bar were Spanish: there were hen parties, and young groups of friends and couples. I would really recommend this bar to people that have knowledge of Spanish and the country's culture: the audience participated (singing along) at the end of the show, as Anselma belted out some classic Spanish tunes. However, without knowing a word of Spanish, I am sure that any guiri (foreigner) would be blown away by the atmosphere and Anselma's cheeky charm!

C/ Pagés del Corro, 49, 41010 TRIANA, Seville
+34 606 162 502
Google map: bit.ly/qxNlna

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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This tip is for visitors to Spain who bank with Santander. When using Santander ATMs to withdraw euros, the usual cash handling fee and foreign exchange fee do not apply.
I'm not here to advertise Santander, but since this tip will save me lots of money I thought it might help others too.

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