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A little over hour outside Barcelona lies the picturesque Pantá de Sau, a reservoir created on the River Ter. When Franco built the dam in 1962, the village that stood nearby, Sant Roma de Sau was lost, the inhabitants given two weeks to move out. Most left the area, but some stayed behind. Among these were the grandparents of our tour guide, Marc, who own Hotel La Riba which overlooks the dam and part of the reservoir.
Meeting Marc could be a tip in itself - a 28 year-old farmer (the family farm supports the family run hotel), who spent three months in Inverness recently learning how to fell large trees in order to heat and power the hotel in a sustainable manner. When he's not busy doing these things, he'll either be kayaking on the reservoir, running the mountain paths or riding his horse-drawn carriage for a wedding. For over three hours Marc entertained us with his knowledge of and enthusiasm.
The reservoir itself is overlooked by cliffs on all sides. From memory, only three buildings were visible: the local kayaking club, the hotel and another hotel on the other side of the reservoir. After a brief explanation on how to use the kayak safely, we set off for the church of Sant Roma, which can still be seen in the middle of the water (adorned with a Catalan independence flag). After stopping for pictures, Marc explained that this was the church his grandparents married in (and while the water level was low enough a few years ago, he paddled through!)
After another 30 minutes paddling, we reached a secluded cove, where it was time to leave the kayaks and begin our hike to the top of the cliffs. The hike was approximately 30 minutes up, including a pause to take pictures. It's challenging, but most active people would be fine with the path, and it's through trees and woodland so there's no danger of taking a short-cut back to your kayak. When you emerge from the trees you're at one of the high points of the area, and the views are stunning and well worth the calories expended.
On the way back down, we reached a pool near the kayaks. Marc encouraged us to get in. Don't. There's a reason he doesn't get in himself, it's freezing. Unfortunately although I am capable of thinking and acting it's rarely in that order (it's worth noting that the lake itself was of a perfect temperature for swimming, but this pool was in the shade).
Once we reached the kayaks we headed back towards the hotel, where Marc enthusiastically showed us the pigs, cows, dogs, horses and just about everything else he had there. I'm pretty sure it wasn't part of the tour but it was interesting none-the-less. After that, we stopped for a bite to eat in the restaurant, which I highly recommend (especially the burger and the milk with rice for desert).
I've lived in Barcelona for a little more than a year and this is probably the best thing I've done since being here.
www.aquaterraclub.com/club.html
(In Catalan, but if you email info@aquaterraclub.com their English is perfect).
Google map: bit.ly/16P0xLj
It's a lovely village on the northern coast of Kos. Only 15 minutes from the airport and decades away from the tourist resorts in other parts of Kos. The beach is long and gets a constant breeze - good for watersports but equally good to keep cool. Water doesn't get deep quickly so ideal swimming for all. Village is full of fantastic real Greek restaurants serving great value very fresh meals. Sunsets here can rival anywhere in the world. Ferry from the village goes over to Kalymnos if you fancy a change of scene and also easy to get around the area on bike or by car. Tourist operators don't go here (thank goodness) but plenty of independent great value accommodation right on the beach.
www.mastihari-uncovered.com
Google map: bit.ly/12tKrQl
Stayed at Guludo with my husband for a week earlier this year. It's barefoot and eco and simply gorgeous. If you're looking for something a bit different and you love culture, snorkelling and responsible travel, then Guludo's perfect. It doesn't have all the mod cons of a flashy resort but it does have heart and soul and we fell in love with the place.
We opted for the road transfer from Pemba (about three hours), mainly because it was cheaper than the air option, which was fine. A day trip to Ibo Island is a must - a fascinating place, steeped in history. We almost stayed here before Guludo but quite pleased we didn't as there isn't a decent beach and it only takes a couple of hours to walk around.
www.guludo.com
Posto do Mucujo, Quirimbas National Park,, Macomia, Pemba, Mozambique
+442071274727
Google map: bit.ly/12SDusR
This was my local lake when I lived in Stockholm. There are numerous great swimming spots along it's borders, but my favourite is the one very near the northern end on the northern shore, just along from Edsberg. It's great because you can jump in off some rocks for the plunge experience, there's a selection of grass and rocks to sit on and there's an easy entry point for those that don't want to jump in. Wild swimming as it should be.
undiscoveredstockholm.com/2013/03/swimming-at-edsviken-in-sollentuna/
Google map: bit.ly/17QhuSj
The restaurant has the finest clams near Lisbon and a view of one of Europe's most beautiful beaches. The journey there has captivating views of Serra da Sintra and the coastline. Spend a day at the beach then slide into the restaurant for a late lunch of ameijoas de bulhao pato (clams in garlic sauce) and camaroes (prawns) washed down with vinho verde (Quinta da Aveleda). On your way home stop off for dinner on the coast road between Guincho and Cascais at either Porto da Santa Maria (where presidents and football managers dine) or the Faroleiro
Take the train from Cais do Sodre in Lisbon to Cascais, jump in a cab towards Guincho beach, a 2km sweep of fine white sand. Drive along the coast road, passing Sintra range on your right and the coastline on your left. Drive past Cabo da Roca and Pe da Serra towards Almocageme. This beautiful village will lead you towards Adraga road. Follow it to the end.
Google map: bit.ly/10fjL7j
Found down the end of a very bumpy lane and past a small clutch of gorgeous waterfront houses, Roundwood Quay is a little visited spot on the edge of the Carrick Roads. It's perfectly tranquil and the perfect spot to watch boats pass up and down the river, whilst there’s a pebbly, muddy beach for swimming and birdwatching, as well as a formal pathway that trails around the edges of the water and forms part of the Trelissick/Roundwood loop walk.
* Sian is our Been there local for Cornwall. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/been-there-local-cornwall.jsp and her own blog about Cornish living: www.adventureswiththeblackdog.co.uk/
Portinho is a tiny village hugging a white sandy beach. There is a calm sheltered bay with turquoise waters- great for snorkelling. Behind Portinho rise steep limestone mountains, all part of the Arrábida nature reserve. Unspoilt, undeveloped and natural, the park is a wonderful area to explore- by car or on foot. Reminiscent of the scenery in Monaco, there are curving mountain roads, Mediterranean forest and views from on high over the bay. There are monasteries to visit as well as the village of Azeitão, with its vineyards and renowned wineries: José Maria da Fonseca and Bacalhôa. Great as a day trip from Lisbon, it takes about 45 minutes to get here, by car over the iconic 25 de Abril bridge. Otherwise, you could easily spend a week's holiday in Arrábida.
A couple of charming little B&Bs on the seafront in Portinho, great as a base for the area, and very reasonable, can be found here: www.hideawayportugal.com/modules/property/city-200.htm
Google map: bit.ly/ZURuD4
A small entrance fee gives you access to the extensive Lycian archaeological site complete with large amphitheatre. Work is still in progress and we found the guys working there really friendly and anxious to explain it all to us. When you have finished looking round the historical site, you can drive a little way further on to the beach- 18 km of beautiful sand. There is a small cafe and a few recliners with umbrellas. Paradise!
Google map: bit.ly/XjH5wu
Caños de Meca is one of several golden beaches spread along Spain’s Costa de le Luz, like a trail of forgotten breadcrumbs. We came across this beach when driving from our base 12km away, in the Moorish hill-top town of Vejer de la Fronterra, to the popular fishing town of Barbate. Wowed by the crescent-shaped stretch of sand laid out beneath us, we parked up our hire car (for free) in the nearby pine forest, La Brena, and wandered through the sleepy coastal town. We never made it to Barbate.
At Canos, the thick pines merge seamlessly into a backdrop of imposing cliffs, with alarmingly clear seas gushing below, begging to be explored. Previously popular on the hippy trail, and with quiet chilled out music playing from most nearby bars and restaurants, you might expect the beach to be drenched in dreadlock-donning travellers. But we only came across a handle of tourists during our time, mostly Spaniards fleeing the sweltering heat of nearby city, Cadiz.
In fact, in stark contrast to neighbouring Costa del Sol, this stretch of unyielding coastline has largely escaped the mass tourism scene so often associated with Spain. For bedraggled water babies with a penchant for adventure, Canos de Meca has surf; for the bucket and spade parade, it’s a safe haven of everything you’d expect from a picture-postcard shoreline. For those wanting a bit of history, you can also walk around the coast to Cape Trafalgar, the starting point for Admiral Nelson in the Battle of Trafalgar. And for those wanting a little relaxation, you’ll be joined by just the occasional sprinkle of bathers, not an army of sun-worshippers. Besides, with a constantly-strong salty wind whistling over the beach, it’s impossible to hear much else, apart from your own silence and the falcons soaring overhead.
During our one-week holiday, we spent hours being flipped in the waves, bobbing with the blue swell of the Atlantic. Sometimes, we played in the nearby rock pool, a magical spot constantly doused in gentle sunshine. And at the end of our day, we’d usually retire to La Jaima, one of a handful of Boho-style beach bars flanking the cliff-top, which entices beachgoers with the sizzling waft of its daily barbecue. Here, we sipped on cold beers and complimentary peanuts saltier than the seawater coating our skin, watching as a group of Spanish students played football beneath.
I recommend it because, although it's only in Spain, it feel as though it's a million miles away. A true, tropical-style, paradise.
Canos de Meca, Andalucia.
Turn off the main N40 road at Vejer de la Frontera and follow the narrow roads to the coast. You can also reach it by taking the minor road through the pine forest from Barbate.
www.playasdetrafalgar.com/
Google map: bit.ly/YkuZ9L
Zahara de los Atunes is a small fishing town on the Costa de la Luz (Coast of Light) 30 km north of Tarifa on the Atlantic coast. It's locked in the 50's and if that's up your street, chances are you'll be the only tourist. There are a couple of bars on the edge of a stunning white sandy beach that stretches as far as the eye can see. Pounding breakers, no high-rises but from time to time a hawker with a basket of fresh gambas might cross your path. Just when you thought there was nowhere left, this is Spain unspoiled.
Google map: bit.ly/15iUxEc
If you are imagining vast semi deserted beaches of white sand and turquoise sea, you don't need to go to the Caribbean. You can still find them in the Cabo de Gata National Park in the Spanish Mediterranean. There are no crowds, no buildings and few people. Walk from the pretty resort of San José or hire a car and sunbathe, skinny dip, windsurf and sail. It is beautiful.
www.parquenatural.com
Carretera Faro, 04118 San José, Almería, Spain
+34 627 96 69 05
Google map: bit.ly/Xlw91u
A nature reserve with some of the best beaches in the world, in particular Rodas Beach on Monteagudo. Great for a day trip from Vigo but even better to camp. No cars, no rubbish bins (take your rubbish back to Vigo!), awesome sunsets over the sea, wonderful flora and fauna (especially birds). Summer only. Plan ahead for the boat and camping!
www.campingislascies.com/
Google map: bit.ly/116qRtr
The sickle-shaped Playa de La Concha sweeps elegantly from the old harbour of San Sebastian, overlooked by the majestic statue of the Holy Heart. It was from this beach that Jake Barnes, the protagonist of Hemingway’s 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises, swam to the diving platforms that still, to this day, bob in the surf, tempting modern-day swimmers from the shore. Beyond, the wooded Isla Santa Clara is pinched between the arms of the bay, sheltering the Basque Country’s best beach from the worst of the Atlantic swell.
Google map: bit.ly/W9BhcP
Strewn out for miles along the southern Atlantic coast of Spain is the stunning El Palmar beach. You won't find yourself short of things to do at the village end - with a mix of restaurants, bars and surf shacks; but walk (or drive and park for free) along to the far eastern edge of the beach and you'll find yourself completely alone with just the wide expanse of sand and sound of waves for company.
You can surf, swim, body board or simply throw out your towel and sit and watch the waves hit the beach and relax. It is perfect at any time of day - for a morning swim, a lunch-time picnic, romantic stroll or to watch the sun go down over the water.
Also at this end is a wonderful little restaurant with a beautiful garden, just right for lounging back on a wicker chair with an Estrella.
You can camp in El Palmar but we stayed in the town of Vejer de la Frontera, 12km away - probably my favourite town in Spain.
11159 El Palmar, Cadiz province, Andalusia, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/13VpdPV
The Algarve has many good beaches. You will find the picture postcard type, with grottos, cliffs and golden sand at low tide, around Lagos. However, when you want something different, head 30 miles north-west to the small town of Aljezur, close to the wild Portuguese Atlantic coast, which is designated as the Vincentina Coast Natural Park. Aljezur is a good looking and interesting historic town with a Moorish castle set in a productive green valley. It has a nice hostel, a market (to buy picnics) and good places to eat, but the real treat is at the end of an attractive five mile drive along the winding road west following the valley of the Ribeira de Aljezur. This takes you to Praia da Amoreira, which has all the components of the perfect beach, but with no crowds and commerce, other than a nice looking shack which, by reputation, has excellent fresh fish in season. You will be able to enjoy the fantastic, weirdly contorted, rock formations in the cliffs and on the foreshore, explore hundreds of rock pools, watch the ever optimistic local fishermen perched in precarious positions rods in hand, ride the surf, run free on the wide expanses of sand, picnic amongst the dunes or splash around in the quieter waters of the estuary.
If you are driving, 1/2 mile north of Aljezur, on the N120, turn left (by the swimming pool) and follow the narrow winding road along the river valley. Praia de Amoreira is at the end of the road. Alternatively up to eight buses a day run from Lagos to Aljezur.
Google map: bit.ly/12OE8vz
Stunning cliffs of yellow ochre and burnt sienna rise steeply from the golden sands of Portimão’s Praia da Rocha in Portugal. Stroll from the marina along the boardwalk to where you think the beach ends. There are tunnels eroded from the wind and wild Atlantic swell leading to further delightful beaches (if you catch the tide right). Watch the surfers, swimmers and beach casters from a beach bar. Sip a glass of Vinho Verde with just a prickle of fizz. Mosey further along to climb the steep wooden steps for a view from above. Sample freshly caught grilled sardines. Have a galão and local cake. At the end of the day join the lovers who stroll the breakwater to watch the sunset.
Long and wide, with rock formations to add interest, this beach will always offer something for the senses.
Portimao - Western Algarve
Google map: bit.ly/Xsnujm
Secreted snugly between Tarifa and Barbate on the southern edge of Cadiz Province is this unspoilt, hidden half-moon of fine white sand. Blink and you'll miss the turning off the N-340 that leads you to this (not so) surprisingly quiet location. Part of a national park, the area is as you find it, so don't expect any frills, only white, rolling dunes, and clear blue waters. The kite surfers tend to be further along at Los Caños de Meca, so turn off the mobile phone, get out that massive tome, lie down under a parasol and relax. Bliss.
Near 11380 Bolonia, Cádiz, Spain - off the E-5 (N-340) between Tarifa and Barbate
Google map: bit.ly/Y9a4Gv
If you want to beat the crowds then look no further than the idyllic beaches of Isla Canela in the Costa de la Luz. Even in July and August you'll find plenty of room to spread a towel or hire a lounger, and the rest of the year you could find yourself almost alone. Want to swim? The sparkling blue sea is safe for swimming, due to a long sloping sweep out to a sandbar and warm enough from May to the end of October. Fancy a drink? Dotted along the dunes are a number of beach bars, such as La Cabra or La Sonrisa, all offering a range of beer, wine and cocktails or food from the BBQ. Looking for something more active? Learn to water ski from CanelaXtreme or hire canoes or bicycles from Bicilandia and cycle along the long promenade. And all of this with five unbroken miles of glorious, fine, golden sand that's cleaned daily. This year more money has been allocated to maintain the pristine condition of the beach, with a special emphasis on making all amenities accessible to people with reduced mobility.
Google map: bit.ly/Y4EE48
If you want to beat the crowds then look no further than the idyllic beaches of Isla Canela in the Costa de la Luz. Even in July and August you'll find plenty of room to spread a towel or hire a lounger, and the rest of the year you could find yourself almost alone. Want to swim? The sparkling blue sea is safe for swimming, due to a long sloping sweep out to a sandbar and warm enough from May to the end of October. Fancy a drink? Dotted along the dunes are a number of beach bars, such as La Cabra or La Sonrisa, all offering a range of beer, wine and cocktails or food from the BBQ. Looking for something more active? Learn to water ski from CanelaXtreme or hire canoes or bicycles from Bicilandia and cycle along the long promenade. And all of this with five unbroken miles of glorious, fine, golden sand that's cleaned daily. This year more money has been allocated to maintain the pristine condition of the beach, with a special emphasis on making all amenities accessible to people with reduced mobility.
A short drive or bus ride from the town of Ayamonte.
Google map: bit.ly/Z0SpzX
This beautiful sandy beach on Tavira Island is reached by a minature train which runs through sand-dunes and marshes - children love this novelty. Where the train stops there are cafes and other facilities open all the year around. If you walk either east or west from here the crowds thin out, and the warm sea, together with the spacious sandy beach, make this an ideal place to spend a day.
To reach Barril take the N125 from Tavira in the direction of Olhao. Before you reach the village of Luz de Tavira, you should see signs on the left for Barril and Pedras d´el Rei. Follow these, and after passing the holiday village you should find somewhere to park. Then cross the footbridge and either take the footpath or the train to the beach.
Is this your business?